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Jul 15, 2017, 05:40 AM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
I actually have the 10428-B, but the larger buggy still uses the same motor.
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Jul 18, 2017, 11:08 PM
The Tech Reviewer
On my 12423, everything is usually fine for a few minutes. Then, the throttle stops working, only steering works. The red led on the esc starts flashing. I have to close the car and restart. Does anyone know the problem?
Jul 19, 2017, 02:04 AM
Outstanding in my (Hay) Field
Boots's Avatar

My WLtoys 12428 Across Upgrades

Hi Folks,
I've had my Across for about x2 weeks.
Bought it from TomTop for $56.99 (using their offered -$3 Coupon). Got it in "5" days (to me In La Mesa, Ca). Not sure where it came from other than the "US Warehouse". Forgot to look on the package.
BTW; they list it for about $80 on the web site, but I search the name of the car on google and it came up with the $59.99 price.

The first time I ran it, I knew it badly needed oil shocks.
So, I robbed some off my 1/10 Associated Team Car from the old days (1990's, when I raced for several years all around San Diego).
MUCH better immediately. Proper shocks TRANSFORM the car.
Why WLtoys didn't include a $.05 worth of O ring and a Thimble full of oil to the buggy in the first place, who knows.

BTW, The shocks don't need heavier springs or preload, they need OIL!!

I'll add a photo of the stock shocks disassembled and the O rings I used. The stock springs are also way too heavy, so even with "80w" oil, the suspension doesn't "sack" the way it should, but it's still a dramatic difference (to the better).
I'm going to use them (on a 2nd Across), but will get some lighter springs and try some lighter oil(s) in the quest to make the stock shocks perform the way they should.

My Mods;
1) Fab connectors to charge 1500mah Lipo with Tenergy Charger (50 min) instead of wallwart (3hr).
2) Removed the snap-on covers over the x6 LED Headlights (MUCH brighter now)
3) Removed spare tire (lowering center of gravity) and cut off roll bar/frame from just behind the battery holder.
I love the look of the spare tire, and every 1-1 Baja racer must have one, but it's just a pendulum on this car and adds to the high center of gravity it has stock.
4) Fabricated Red LED Taillights and harness. Connected them to the rear/roof lights wiring, Hot Glued the wiring(s) at the light connectors so they wouldn't come out of the connector.
5) Removed counter weight (HEAVY) and relocated (& hot glued) Receiver/Speed Control in it's place. Lowering center of gravity.
6) Added old school Heat Sinks, superglued to Speed Control fins
7) Lubed (Using Militec-1) motor bushings and ball bearings under pinion/spur gear cover, added Powdered Graphite to Pinion & Spur gear.
8) Added old school Heatsink (With heat sink paste) to main/540 brushed motor.
9) Used Powdered Graphite to lube steering rack/rail.
10) Fabricated new lower ball mounts to install Team Car Rear Oil Shocks ( now softer springs and 30w), & mounted bottom in rearmost position (to lower rear as much as possible).
11) Modded Ball Mounts to Install Team Car Fr Oil Shocks (30w). Slightly shorter shocks = a little less travel (lowering front slightly).
Note; my car still has plenty of ground clearance.
12) Added Low Battery Detector to Top Battery Retainer Bar.
13) Installed ROBIC Stop Watch (W/Lanyard) on Transmitter
NOTE; because I had the x4 shocks, Heat Sinks, LBD, and all electrical connectors and such, I still only have $56 into the truck as it sits.
14) Installed the Blue Anodized linkage kit from Banggood (received it in 9 days).
NOW, the massive toe out can be reduced to 0 - 1/16" toe-out, so it doesn't have as much front end oversteer.
15) Added 1/16" of spacers to Blue Anodized adjustable upper rear axle arms, to turn the Rear Diff up and give the driveshaft a less severe angle (I like that guy's idea of using a second set of lower arms up top to do the same thing).
NOTE; use Locktite on the adjustable linkages or they WILL unscrew while the car is being run. I almost lost a rear piece that way!
16) Fabbed connectors (same as motor connectors) and shortened wiring from battery to speed control, eliminating Dean's Plugs (just my preference).
Still to do;
Install the Blue Anodized (Banggood) metal steering rack, lower front suspension arms and steering bracket, plus fab a better servo to linkage arm.
I'm also going to try a 19 Double "Monsters Of Touring" brushed motor out of the Team Car, and have ordered (again from Banggood) a 21T, Neo magnet, adjustable timing, brushed motor for $9!!!

I don't have the deep pocket some of you seem to have, and I thought that Aliexpress guy was WAY expensive.

I was kind of interested in a nut and bolt assortment and a second Rollbar/top frame assembly to do a different paint job. Just those bits were over $50 through him, so I bought a whole second Across. Again, from TomTop, $56.99, in the door in 5 days.
Now THAT's a Spares Kit!!

Hope this tips give you guys some ideas.
Be safe and have fun.
Boots Langley
PS; I'm the knucklehead who put up the grainy videos on youtube with the onboard run and suspension tips. Only video camera I have is a little Mattel Hot Wheels "Video Racer" that I used to film flights from the belly of my WLtoys V913 FP Helicopter. Apropos that it's Black and Green and is taped to the hood of the Across now (see photo). I get dizzy watching it blaze around but hey, something is better than nothing!!
Jul 19, 2017, 02:16 AM
Outstanding in my (Hay) Field
Boots's Avatar
Hi Folks,
One other note;
My Across is now 5 Oz lighter than stock.
"(less) Weight is (= to more) Horsepower", as the Racers say.
Just with the Mods so far, it's tendency to roll over has been reduced 70-80%, and I've saved it from rolling, with it up on x2 wheels, numerous times. It barely lifts one front wheel now under acceleration, and I think if I can adapt a 1/10 Traxxas sway bar kit to it, I can eliminate that all together,
More food for thought!
Jul 19, 2017, 05:27 AM
Registered User
Yeah, the counter weight mod would make a huge improvement. More speed and longer run times.
Jul 19, 2017, 01:07 PM
Gator's here to see you:)
gator's Avatar
Wow. Thanks for the details on a few simple mods! As for inexpensive mods, what about removing the foam liners in the tires too? Somebody had posted a nice improvement in handling after doing that simple mod. If there was any way to get the battery down lower in the frame that'd be a huge help too.

Can you post a few links for those O-rings, motor, motor heat sink, and the Blue Anodized steering linkage kit?

Sounds like it's time to go back to the bench for a little tweaking with mine.

Mine's still running fine drifting around on my sand/shell oval but I don't jump it over crazy stuff. Sounds like most of the plastic rear diff gear failures are happening when the buggy gets major air at full throttle and then over-revs in-flight and hits the ground putting the drive train in shock. Just a guess....
Jul 19, 2017, 03:29 PM
Outstanding in my (Hay) Field
Boots's Avatar

My mods info

Hi Gator,
the O Rings (part number is in the photo) came from my local hobby store. Probably a commonly stocked item @ $3.
I did 8 shocks for both my Across.
BTW; if you do the O ring Mod, dip the end of the threaded shaft in a drop of oil before sliding the O ring over to help prevent any chance of tearing it. Only tighten the end cap over it a modest amount. It only needs to be held in place. Be sure to not cross thread the cap(s).
The Black heat sink on the motor and Gold Heat Sinks on the speed control are from the old days but I'd bet they are still available. I don't have any part numbers.
Otherwise, the Blue Anodized linkage kit (8 pieces) was about $18 from Banggood (Some Amazon & eBay sellers want that for x2!). Same with the 21T motor I ordered.
I usually upgrade the Shipping from Free @ 7-20 days, to Priority @ 7-12 days. Costs a few dollars more but the savings by buying from Banggood way offsets any US prices, and I've been consistently getting my parts in 9-10 days. I don't usually insure the items. If you use PayPal, it's insurance in itself.
My 2nd Across is (I think) destined to be a onroad car, and I've ordered a set on Lime Green wheels with semi slicks from eBay. I may try the no foam trick, but like low pressure tire(s) on a car, the resulting drag will (probably) run down the battery quicker.
I'd rather rework the suspension and make the car work the way it should. I still may try that Mod though. I may be wrong and it may be the brilliant solution!

I agree with you on the use/abuse of the running gear/Diffs. Mine is holding up fine, but I also done flail it to within an inch of it's life.

If that's your bag, THEN, IMHO, you need to spend the $$$ and buy a 1/10 scale made for racing (even they break stuff when run that hard). These are a (Very) fun, Very inexpensive buggy. I've Laffed a lot, when I see guys on youtube trying to climb 10 ft boulders (if it was 1-1 scale) and wondering why their Rock Crawler won't do it. Or jumping it so far, like a stadium motocross bike, endoing a dozen times and wondering why it broke!!

I envy Ali shanmo (youtube) for his desert oasis (Dubai) playground! He does some great reviews.

I have a question; does anyone have a source for different/softer springs that fit the stock shocks?

Be safe and have fun
Jul 19, 2017, 11:13 PM
The Tech Reviewer
How long do you guys drive for before hitting lvc? How hard are you guys driving it to get that amount of run time? With the stock battery? In lvc, does only steering work and ESC blinks?
Jul 20, 2017, 04:57 AM
Outstanding in my (Hay) Field
Boots's Avatar

Installed MOT motor & Rr shock spacers

Hi Guys,
Man am I pleased.
Tonight's mods were (almost) a complete success.
I will caution you all, with some simple but important notes to follow if you do a motor change.

NOTE: no offense to you experienced old tops, but there are many who will view this and not know the odds and ends of this type of mods or even the simplest of tasks. I try to detail my work for you all. Hope you appreciate that.

I'd said I wanted to use my old school Trinity "Monsters Of Touring" 19T Double that I'd pulled from my 1/10 Associated Team Car. I remember it ran well (20 years ago!) and didn't have many runs on it.
I pulled the brushes, cleaned the com with a "Com Stick", chamfered the used, but good, brush edges and slightly refaced the brushes with the com stick. I lubed it with Militec-1.
I then pulled the stock motor. It came out OK, BUT, one of the motor screws that hold it to the bracket was EXTREMELY tight (they use locktite to hold the bolts that hold the motor to the bracket and bracket to the frame.
I had to heat the motor/bracket pretty damn hot (with a Heat Gun) and use a very tight fitting and proper tipped screw driver to finally get it out.
when you reinstall the motor (stock or not), pull on the motor a bit to the outside (as you tighten the motor mount bracket to the chassis), so that in the end, when it is tight to the bottom chassis, there is a "Slight" bit of free play between the motor's pinion gear and the spur gear. They come way too tight.
I was at the local hobby shop and I swore that wasn't a 32P gear on the stock motor. It was, but is a wonkey type of pitch. I bought a 20T 32P for when I install the smaller onroad tires, and it does indeed match the spur gear and was a smooth roll over it.

It looks like we are stuck with the stock 62T spur gear, but by slotting the motor mount holes with a dremel, we can add or reduce the pinion tooth count to adjust for different motor and/or tire dia.

I've included a few pics of the MOT installed. I forgot to weight the stock and MOT motors, but I know it's substantially lighter (The MOT) and the car is now ever more well balanced, and more importantly., lighter (weight is HP!).
Then, I corrected the install of the 1/10 rear shocks. I've included a pic of the spacers I used, and the longer 2mm bolts for the upper Rr shock mounts. Those alloy spacers are the S...
They come in different thickness, so I used the x4 thickest for the shocks spacers and a thin one to the outer of the RF tie rod (can't really see it in the pic) to adjust the Massive stock toe-out to "0" toe-out.
I had to use a small piece of silicone tubing to act as a spacer for the inside of the shock top. Now, with the top of the shocks moved away from the frame, the shocks don't touch the frame and work smooth and properly.
Finally, I used some Powdered Graphite and sparingly applied it to all the moveable driveshaft joints and balls.
Wow, no more metal to metal (Graphite doesn't attract dirt like oil does) and the car is MUCH quieter and I swear smoother running.
Well, that's today's mods. I ran the car tonight for a few minutes and man, I'm VERY pleased with the transformation.
Very little money spent, just a bit of time and effort done in the right places.

12428 Across (Tomtop) cost; $56
Shock O rings, $3 (critical mod), Spacers $5, Shock oil $5, Longer bolts $3, 1/10 shocks & springs $0 (had them), 19T Double MOT $0 (had it), Connectors/wiring/solder/ LED's/ Hot Glue/ Heat Sinks; Had it but Meah; $20?, Tie Rods Kit $18 (Banggood, critical mod), spacers for tie rods and shocks $5, LBD $0 (had it), Locktite BLUE (Only, do not use RED)/Powdered Graphite (had them but $3-4 ea at most auto parts stores).
So, for about $100 and a few days/hours of work, what an improvement.
I bet if you follow my lead, you be just as pleased with the outcome.
Good luck.
MY main Question still needs an answer; Where to find softer shock springs to replace the stock ones on the stock shocks (which are extremely heavy). Anyone?
Be safe and have fun.
to do;
Once they come in; Install the Blue Anodized alloy steering rack, steering knuckles, add a better servo to linkage rod, and I'm now REAL interested in that Banggood 21T neo mags, ball bearings $9 motor!
Dump the Lump; 540. BTW, my MOT has 3 caps on it (the stock motor has 1). All seems well so far!
Jul 20, 2017, 05:38 AM
Outstanding in my (Hay) Field
Boots's Avatar

My Modded Across vs the stocker weights

Hi Guys,
I just used my Calibrated Postal Digital Scale and weighed both the Stock Across (with only the Oil Shocks Mod) and my now 20 Mods Across.
Stocker Across; 3 lbs 5.6oz
Modded Across; 2 lbs 15,2oz.
Right on a 6 oz weight reduction (stocker doesn't have a LBD and Modded one does).
I'd say there is almost a 1 oz difference in the stock motor and the (rebuildable, bushinged) MOT. A worthwhile Mod in it's own right.
I'm pleased with the weight reduction, suspension mods and resulting performance gains.
Now, you almost have to TRY and make my Modded Across roll over!
Jul 22, 2017, 03:31 AM
Outstanding in my (Hay) Field
Boots's Avatar
Hey guys,
Jeez, I know you are out there. I can hear you breathin! ;-)
I didn't mean to freak you all out.
I read all 49 pages while I was building and modding my car, in hopes of having something meaningful to show and tell you all about.
I'm hoping you are just busy running and modding your own cars.
I'd sure like to see what you have done and tell me your improvements that I can make to my car, and keep this 12428 Across thread up and running.
Stay safe and have fun.
Jul 22, 2017, 09:38 PM
Outstanding in my (Hay) Field
Boots's Avatar

Easy and Cheap WLtoys 12428 Across Upgrades

Hi Guys,
I guess I'll just press on without you?

I am directing this post at any of you who don't have deep pockets, yet want to improve your Across' handling cheaply.

As an FYI; I'm a disabled senior, existing on Social Security, so my $ MUST be spent wisely, and if I can make something rather than spend the $, I'll try to.
I've turned a wrench all my life and have raced in 1-1 scale (in my 20's & 30's) drag racing big block Mopars/x4 years and Motorcycle Grand Prix Roadracing, building and racing 3 cyl, 2 stroke Kawasaki Triples/x8 years) and in 1/10 RC (in my 40's; raced RC cars for x5 years), and in my 50's and 60's, raced 1/24 slot cars for x4 years and HO slot cars for x3 years.
@ 67, not much racing going on for me these days, but I've fallen back in love with RC cars, and the Across is responsible.

On my Stock Across, I did the swap out of the Large round rear upper tie rods that holds the Differential and used the now extra pair of lower bars (from my Modified Across). The bottom struts are longer than the stock upper round ones, and longer than the Blue Anodized Banggood bars (even when 2-3mm spacers are added. Which I did).
I think they are at least as robust as the metal rods and now, the driveshaft is at a very good, level angle from extended to compressed (see photos).
BTW; I also use Powdered Grahite on those driveshaft pivot ends.
I've order another pair from Banggood, and am going to remove the Blue metal rods from the modded Across, and use the lower struts for it too.
Thanks to the guy who suggested that in an earlier post (please forgive me but I forgot who that was).
A great improvement for under $2!

Then, I used a set of metal tie rods I had in my old RC stock, and cut a pair of the round rear long rods, to make an adjustable set of tie rods for the stocker Across. The toe out as these cars come stock, is excessive IMHO. So, I wanted to make a set without spending money.
I'll admit my first set isn't all that good looking and probably could make another pair, but they do accomplish the mission, and I can now set the toe out to "0".
I measure from the inside of each front stock tire's large inner tread block and get 6 5/8" front and rear.
You can get a set of 1/10 tie rods for under $2 at your local hobby store.

Now, the car(s) don't turn in so quick or spin and flip like the all stock ones do.

So, there you have x2 cheap mods that fix a couple of major problems with the car and improve the handling.
A couple of other tips/bit of info;
I've works for a number of hours now, trying to get the stock shock, with 1 or 2 O rings, to hold oil but they just won't. It seems, the plastic bodies just aren't precise enough to allow the oil to stay put on top or bottom caps.
If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears.
I have no problems with the 1/10 set of alloy shocks on the rear of the modified, and I guess I'll have to rebuild the pair of matching fronts for it. But I was hoping to keep using the stock shocks on the stocker Across.
I did buy a set of 4 of the Banggood Blue shocks, so I'll next give them a try before spending a bundle on other upgraded shocks.

A note on the Blue Lower rear struts that hold the diff. I just got mine and installed them on my Modded Across. After only x1, 6-7 minute run on mixed pavement and dirt, they are already pitting and the Blue anodize is coming off.
If I had known that I'd have probably not spent the $20 on the full set, and done just what I did for the stocker (made my own tie rods and installed a lower set of struts on top).
The Blue metal steering rack, steering knuckles and lower front swing arms are a good improvement, but I now don't have much hope they will stay looking good for long either.
OK, that's it for now.
Stay safe and have fun.
Jul 23, 2017, 02:30 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by rcforlife View Post
How long do you guys drive for before hitting lvc? How hard are you guys driving it to get that amount of run time? With the stock battery? In lvc, does only steering work and ESC blinks?
As per your previous post, only steering working and esc flashing is LVC. This usually happens around the time stated for run time, but can happen sooner. Especially with the stock battery, if you drive it hard, you can momentarily drop the voltage low enough for the esc to cut out even before true LVC voltage is reached. It could also be a sign of poor connections or a poor battery. Do you have any other 2S lipo batteries you can try. I bought a second battery that is somewhat higher capacity, but also (and probably more important) much higher rated for discharge. I find this battery never reaches LVC until it is actually depleted, whereas the stock battery can sometimes just cut out in the way you mention, especially when driving harder.
Jul 23, 2017, 11:12 AM
Keeps Me Outta Trouble...Kinda
Sorry Boots, I have been reading all your mods and info this morning! Tons of great info, Thank You For That!
Getting ready to post what I have done to mine so far!
Jul 23, 2017, 11:36 AM
Keeps Me Outta Trouble...Kinda

My Mods Thus Far

I have a couple extra sets of rear end gears after reading about the issues with stripping them out.
Steering tie-rods I managed to piece together to correct the Terrible toe issue.
I installed a u-joint style driveshaft after seeing pics of some snapping off.
Front and rear oil filled shocks, rear springs were way too stiff so I swapped out traxxas slash front springs in the back. the shocks they sent me for the front are shorter than stock length and I believe the stroke is shorter also.

I am also contemplating modding the back of the green cage and moving the spare tire!
I need to find a short bodied servo so I can replace the cheap one to run bigger tires, the stock one just doesnt have the torque to turn them unless buggy is rolling. I would love to replace the electronics when I find a cheap suitable replacement system.
The oil filled shocks, metal driveshaft and replacement rear end gears are from the links posted in this forum! Thank You Very much for that, as I would have never found these parts!
I very much so look forward to reading more post in this forum!
Have a great one fellas!

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