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Jun 11, 2019, 06:16 AM
PSALM 14:1
Sammy70's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by FoamForce
Did you put the servo inside the fuselage or on top.
Inside the fuse up front, accessible with the top wing off.

You'll likely need as much weight up front as possible, so putting the tail servos out back will make things worse.
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Jun 12, 2019, 07:52 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy70
Inside the fuse up front, accessible with the top wing off.

You'll likely need as much weight up front as possible, so putting the tail servos out back will make things worse.
Oh, I put them back near the tail. a few days ago. Im hoping I can push the battery forward enough to even this out. Im using small 5 gram servos so my thinking was that the long pushrods would weigh more than just putting the servos back.
Yesterday, 12:14 AM
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tspeer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by P-51 fan
When you cover your planes with doculam I assume you are applying it with an iron and heat gun? Keep in mind you can paint the adhesive side of doculam, then when it is put on it will look like glossy Monokote....
If you paint the adhesive side, what sticks it to the foam? Do you use 3M 77 or something similar?

If the film is painted before it's shrunk, does the paint crack and flake?
Yesterday, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tspeer
If you paint the adhesive side, what sticks it to the foam? Do you use 3M 77 or something similar?

If the film is painted before it's shrunk, does the paint crack and flake?
I spray the foam with 3M77, lay the doculam on the foam, then attach with monokote iron. In my experience, the paint will not crack or flake.
Yesterday, 01:53 PM
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tspeer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer
I spray the foam with 3M77, lay the doculam on the foam, then attach with monokote iron. In my experience, the paint will not crack or flake.
I wonder if one could apply the Doculam to a foam sheet before making the parts from it. You could use a larger iron, like a clothes iron. Not only could the patterns be applied first, but the film would keep the foam from cracking when it's bent. Joints could be covered with a strip of Doculam to seal and reinforce them. It would mean cutting the parts instead of hot-wiring them, as I usually do. Or maybe not. I'll have to try hotwiring a piece of film covered foam to see if the wire will melt the film, too.
Yesterday, 08:41 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by tspeer
If you paint the adhesive side, what sticks it to the foam? Do you use 3M 77 or something similar?

If the film is painted before it's shrunk, does the paint crack and flake?
I work with doculam almost exclusively, you can paint the adhesive side, with a light coat of paint when you goto iron it on the glue will meld with the paint and it will stick,
I chose to recoat the paint with balasrite to add a little adhesion or better seal of the material, I haveone plane that is still covered that way and have some extra covering for patch work.

I also have a wing that was painted in reverse on the back side of the doculam with a ghost flame job in 3 different colors, and its a 7' wing,,


I first tried it on my 40 -60 size bingo which had pin striping and 3 colors on it the fuse was drawn on the top of the doculam for reference and it was taped off and painted, it worked well I'm not a great painter,

it should be able to cut with a hot wire, the paint doesn't crack after it is applied even in open area's

I would be concerned that the heat needed for the proper seal or adhesion will be close to the melting point of the foam

my final solution to painting doculam has been to use automotive paint or clear coat, clear will not affect latex paints, but again pin striping or taping off is a hassle, the automotive paint sticks well with the bulldog paint adhesive additive it works for me quite well I have 3 planes done this way either latex with clear or total automotive paint can be taped off without tearing the paint off when peeling the tape off


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