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May 06, 2016, 12:20 PM
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Mini-HowTo

Durafly Tundra - LED install guide


Here's a basic how-to / install guide on the TURNIGY Super Bright LED Low Voltage Alarm Device, that I've used on my Durafly Tundra.

Also as seen on the pre-release christmas teaser video on youtube

Durafly TUNDRA - Part 2 [ Christmas Lights Bonus ] (3 min 19 sec)


(in case it's blocked:



I'm using a plug-and-play LED system from Hobbyking, this can be easy installed without the need to do any soldering:

TURNIGY Super Bright LED Low Voltage Alarm Device
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...h=9107000349-0
+
Turnigy Super Bright 2 x White Add On LED Light Set
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...h=9107000357-0

These LED's are VERY visible, also during the daytime in bright sunlight.
The set also functions as a low-voltage alarm: The LED's will start to blink very fast when your cell reaches 3.5Volt, so you know that you have to land right away.

There's also an option to add a beeper, but I did not feel the need.


The only downside of this devise is that it reads only from the first cells on your lipo. It's not a good idea to connect the LED's and run them for a long time without flying around.
But for normal use (when flying around) the unballance is not bad at all. Just be aware that you need to ballance-charge your packs most of the time to keep your lipo healthy.


Note: I don't remove my wings for transport, and this install is based on that.
If you do need to to remove the wings: you will have to include a few connectors to the system for ease of use, and you can't glue the LED's to the wing-struts like I did.

Also note: this setup is not ment to be used for night flying. Orientation is a problem at night, with just these 4 LED's. Get a Flybeam for that instead! (check my youtube channel for my Flybeam modification tip!)

See the images with details on how to set it up!

This guide was earlyer posted in the Dutch forum:
http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads...5#post-3673001

Another video on how this looks during the day (note that LED's are a lot harder to see on video):

Durafly TUNDRA - Part 6 [ More Fun ] (6 min 39 sec)


Click on the images to see the step-by-step guide!

Click twice on the images to see the full size.
-

UPDATE: Scroll down this page for a wiring diagram!
Last edited by Justapoke; Aug 03, 2016 at 03:13 PM.
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May 06, 2016, 01:27 PM
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Just another tip:

If you don't like to use the Low Voltage Alarm Device:

Use a simple MR16 LED driver that can be soldered direct to the ESC's connector to have 3S / 12V for example. That way you don't have to use the balance plug of the lipo.

MR16 drivers can be found cheap on Ebay.
For example:
- MR16 1-3x1W 1W 3W High Power LED Driver 350mA
- 10pcs MR16 3X3W led driver 11-18V dc to 9-11V DC700mA

As far as I can remember the LED's used in the Hobbyking set are 1W 350mA
Jul 17, 2016, 02:35 AM
Great Southern Land
Berkie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justapoke
Here's my basic how-to / install guide on the TURNIGY Super Bright LED Low Voltage Alarm Device, that I've used on my Durafly Tundra.

Also as seen on the pre-release christmas teaser video on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVJGQ24PSgQ

(in case it's blocked:



I'm using a plug-and-play LED system from Hobbyking, this can be easy installed without the need to do any soldering:

TURNIGY Super Bright LED Low Voltage Alarm Device
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...h=9107000349-0
+
Turnigy Super Bright 2 x White Add On LED Light Set
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...h=9107000357-0

These LED's are VERY visible, also during the daytime in bright sunlight.
The set also functions as a low-voltage alarm: The LED's will start to blink very fast when your cell reaches 3.5Volt, so you know that you have to land right away.

There's also an option to add a beeper, but I did not feel the need.


The only downside of this devise is that it reads only from the first cells on your lipo. It's not a good idea to connect the LED's and run them for a long time without flying around.
But for normal use (when flying around) the unballance is not bad at all. Just be aware that you need to ballance-charge your packs most of the time to keep your lipo healthy.


Note: I don't remove my wings for transport, and this install is based on that.
If you do need to to remove the wings: you will have to include a few connectors to the system for ease of use, and you can't glue the LED's to the wing-struts like I did.

Also note: this setup is not ment to be used for night flying. Orientation is a problem at night, with just these 4 LED's. Get a Flybeam for that instead! (check my youtube channel for my Flybeam modification tip!)

See the images with details on how to set it up!

This guide was earlyer posted in the Dutch forum:
http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads...5#post-3673001

Another video on how this looks during the day (note that LED's are a lot harder to see on video):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvfHcXfi7g0

Click on the images to see the step-by-step guide!

Click twice on the images to see the full size.
-

Thank you, thank you thank you for sharing this great idea

Just in the process of installing it all now.

Am looking forward to flying at dusk, floats on, along the side of the pier on the bay here, hoping to attract some attention from strollers, because these lights will look magic on the Tundra, as it slow flys past them.

Have soaked lights and controller in CorrosionX just in case
Jul 18, 2016, 12:00 PM
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Thanks Berkie.

It's a very nice LED set, I'm sure your gonna love it!

Good idea on the CorrosionX, would be the better way if flying from floats a lot.

I did not have anything like that at the time, but I did make the LED's waterproof (or at least resistent) by cutting the extends of the heatschrink, and than sealed it with some glue.
Jul 18, 2016, 06:58 PM
Great Southern Land
Berkie's Avatar
Have you posted this in the Tundra thread?
Jul 18, 2016, 07:11 PM
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Yeah some time ago I've posted a link.

It's also on some of the videos on my youtube channel, but I guess people just need to find it.

Would be good if info like this was in opening posts on threads.
Jul 23, 2016, 05:38 PM
Great Southern Land
Berkie's Avatar
Hey JP, I have got the lights installed. I've set them as nav lights with the green on the starboard wing tip and red on port side.
I have the white ones too, but cant get them to work from the controller at the same time as the others. If I use a Y lead for either set then one of the lights won't come on.

What's your secret mate?
Jul 23, 2016, 05:45 PM
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First thing to check: Do you have the same board as in the image?

There are 2 outputs, red and green on 1 and the white are connented the same together on the 2'd output.

Jul 23, 2016, 05:53 PM
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I've just checked on the product page of the 4 led unit.

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ed_Green_.html

The board is basicly the same.

If correct the 2 white leds you have come with one connector. And the Red and Green have 2 connectors?

I think it's correct that you need to hook up the red and green on 1 connector, the same way as white. Than hook the white up to the 2 ports.

A Y-lead might not work. Please check on the white leds how the wires go. I think 2 leds need to be wired in series.


I hope that it's clear, can't check on my install as I don't have the plane here.
Last edited by Justapoke; Jul 23, 2016 at 06:04 PM.
Jul 23, 2016, 06:09 PM
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Yeah.. they need to be in series. See wiring diagram (also attached)

Jul 23, 2016, 06:15 PM
Great Southern Land
Berkie's Avatar
Thanks JP
I think the problem is that I want the 2 whites to stay on steady as landing lights, but need the coloureds to be flashing as nav lights.

Think I will have to run the whites on a separate 1S
Jul 23, 2016, 06:29 PM
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Yeah that's not gonna work with the board. It's either all blinking or all on.

You can use a MR16 driver as mentioned in post 2:
MR16 1-3x1W 1W 3W High Power LED Driver 350mA

Than you don't need an extra battery.

Also wire the whites in series than.
Jul 23, 2016, 06:34 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-DC12V-3-x...8AAMXQ0pNRrmg5

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR16-1-3x1W-...6SkB5By-oSz8NQ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR16-1-3x1W-...enrWJsg78x_bvw

[edit] might not be the correct links, read below]
Last edited by Justapoke; Jul 23, 2016 at 07:39 PM.
Jul 23, 2016, 06:40 PM
Great Southern Land
Berkie's Avatar

Use a simple MR16 LED driver that can be soldered direct to the ESC's connector to have 3S / 12V for example. That way you don't have to use the balance plug of the lipo.


Yes, but is that going to out put 12V, ? These lights can only take 4.2V max
Jul 23, 2016, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berkie

Use a simple MR16 LED driver that can be soldered direct to the ESC's connector to have 3S / 12V for example. That way you don't have to use the balance plug of the lipo.


Yes, but is that going to out put 12V, ? These lights can only take 4.2V max
The MR16 you solder in parallel to your ESC wires, so it gets (around) 12V input from your 3S lipo. But it does not output 12V.

These power LED's run from current, not voltage. In fact they can't even take 4.2V DC - I think they will burn out in just a few seconds.

The MR16 just puts 350mA current out to whatever the LED (2 Led's in series in this case) asks for. It controls the voltage according to it.


I'm not that technical at all with this, don't know how to explain better. But if you search on power LED's you will find the most important used values are just Watt and current.. mostly 300 - 350 or 700ma

Voltage is almost never mentioned. These type of power LED's are also always connected in series.


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