FMS 1220mm Super EZ Trainer, Recommended Newcomers read 1st 12 Posts - RC Groups
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Apr 18, 2016, 03:44 AM
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FMS 1220mm Super EZ Trainer, Recommended Newcomers read 1st 12 Posts

POST 1 - Where to Buy, Stats, First Impresssions, PROs, CONs
POST 2 - Link to Shipping/Delivery, Unboxing
POST 3 - Parts and Assembly
POST 4 - Link to FMS 3610-Kv1050 brushless (BL) motor & Cowl area
POST 5 - Link to Prop, Prop Adapter and Spinner; Thrust Angles, SOME "Limited Static Data"
POST 6 - Link to FlySky (FS) FS-i4 Transmitter (Tx) or Controller
POST 7 - Link to FlySky (FS) FS-A6 Receiver (Rx
POST 8 - Link to F M S 20 Amp E S C
POST 9 - Link to Setup of control surfaces
POST 10 - Link to Flight review
POST 11 - Link to Battery and Charger
POST 12 - Link to Recommendations
POST 24 - Link to Measured CG versus other CGs
POST 33 - Link to Conversion from FlySky to DSMX
POST 633 - Super EZ on floats HBZ7390
POST 643 - FMS Super EZ flying with floats (on grass)
POST 644 - Adding HZ Super Cub floats to FMS Super EZ
POST 658 - First flight with floats off the Atlantic ocean
POST 672 - True water takeoff and landings from water, FMS Super EZ with floats
POST 693 - Super EZ FPV by dlgmad 1 hr 10 mins FLIGHT TIME!


This thread covers the FMS 1220mm Super EZ Trainer airplane. It will be updated periodically and hopefully will become a resource for anyone interested in it. I initially wrote it as a Mini-Review but I went overboard. I think it should be a good thread for discussion of the plane, maybe mods, videos, pictures, flight experiences, etc. I approached the first page of posts as a review meant mainly for the beginner RC pilot and from the POV as a RC pilot with an intermediate skill level.

The aircraft manual and the ESC manual are available HERE on MotionRC's page under the "Support Tab".

RTF Model for $159.39 + $? shp
PNP model for $128.39 + $? shp

GearBest COUPON CODES: The discount amount may not be as stated and these codes don't always work, but worth a try.
RC18OFF = 18% discount
TOY15OFF = 15% discount

RTF model for $179.99 + shp?
PNP for $129.99 + shp?
NOTE: MotionRC's models come with EC3 connectors on the ESC.

Although BG has a pop-up note that says "We are sorry that this item cannot be sent to your location." you should be able to put it in your cart and order it.
RTF model for $169.99 + $13.09 shp or $183.08.
PNP model for $109.99 + $8.04 shp or $118.03.

This is a well-made, well-mannered and very nice looking plane. The size is good for visibility and for flying in windier weather than a smaller plane would be.

FMS paid attention to the need for an easy to remove and install wing. This is an easy to transport and assemble airplane.

The FMS Super EZ Trainer has a colorful appearance. The underwing and top wing has contrasting patterns allowing for easy orientation.

With a 48 inch wingspan, it's a good size for being able to see at a distance. And the size is good for flying in some wind.

FMS put some thought into something that usually seems to be an afterthought or no thought. The LANDING GEAR is beefy and up to the task! So often an airplane's landing gear is a flimsy affair that can only handle a perfect landing. This 1-piece metal affair is bolted on with 3 bolts and unless you drive it into the ground hard with a not-so-level touchdown or hard belly flop, it should be able to survive not-so-perfect landings. I haven't tested that theory though.

The receiver bay is very generous. Lots of room for things like a standalone stabilizer.

The battery bay gets a plus and a minus. The plus is it's accessible from the top. You don't have to remove the wing or turn the airplane over in order to change the battery.

Initially I had the CG RANGE as a negative only. I still feel the published CG of 60mm is not the best flying range for the EZ. But after flying the plane more, I've added this CG RANGE item to the plus column. The SuprEZ has a wide CG range. I feel safe in saying you can fly almost any batt up to a 3S 2200mAh safely in this plane with the CG anywhere from 62mm to 81mm aft of the wing's LE. That is basically anywhere on the battery tray.

But it definitely flies better in a CG range of 70-80mm aft of the wing's LE. With smaller lighter batts located in the aft CG ranges, it flies level at 50%. With batts set for a CG range of 62-65mm, it requires more throttle for level flight and/or UP elevator. if you are using heavier batts, loops are easier to achieve and rounder at the top with an aft CG. With an AFT CG you aren't applying constant aft stick or needing to trim in UP ELE on landings as is required with a foreward CG.

Good job FMS! It is very forgiving as a trainer with regards to handling if set up properly, and has wide latitude as to battery placement and a flyable CG.

Now for the minus. The battery bay is very cramped. MotionRC's models come equipped with EC3 connectors versus Deans connectors from the other vendors. Although it has 2 Velcro straps already installed, and a nice Velcro strap on the floor of the battery space, it's very cramped and hard to strap a battery down without some effort. A larger space would be nice.

The supplied clevises are barely able to do the job. They have a plastic ball on the ends of the pin that insert into the hole of the clevis. That ball on one of the aileron clevises of my plane was bent and made it hard to insert into the hole. If the connecting rod isn't lined up exactly inline with the servo arm, the clevises look bent, not a reassuring sight.

This is the one of the most serious problems you face as a beginner, DETERMINING the CG. FMS recommends a CG of 60mm for FMS 1220mm Super EZ Trainer. The manual says forward of the wing's leading edge (LE). The picture in the manual below that statement makes it obvious it's supposed to be aft of the LE.

In reality, you don't pick a CG point and make it balance there. You balance your plane and find out where that point is. The recommended CG is a good starting point, not the ending point.

The CG on my airplane measured out at 76 to 78mm for the best performance, versus the "published CG" of 60mm. Be open to the possibility that your airplane may not fly well at the recommended CG of 60mm aft of the wing's LE. There is more discussion on the CG below in my POST 10 - "My Flight Review" & my POST 24 "Measured CG versus other CGs" on Page 2.

Although the empty weight qualifies this plane as a Park Flyer (AMA Park Flyer Program standards), the AUW with the stock battery puts it over the 2 lb. limit. The AMA PF rules do not specifically state the weight must be AUW so this is a gray area. This may be of no importance to most of us but could limit where it is flown if the park you fly in defines what aircraft may fly in their park based on AMA Park Flyer Program rules and how they interpret them. A battery of 3oz or less would keep it at or below 2lbs.
AMA Park Flyer Rules

If you're a stickler for a perfect paint job, you might find a few areas not completely covered on your bird. For me, it's a minor issue. My bird had 2 areas needing more coverage. One was on the bottom near the LG. The other was on the lower right side near the LG.

Wingspan - 1220mm 48.0in
Length - 1020mm 40.2in
Weight as advertised - 890g 31.4oz
Weight, empty - 819.3g, 1.806lbs, 28.9oz
Weight - All-Up-Weight (AUW) measured
WITH the supplied battery
- 925g, 2.04lbs, 32.6oz w/stock 1300mAh battery
WITH my own larger battery - 983g, 2.17lbs, 34.7oz w/1800mAh battery
Prop - FMS 2-blade 1050
Motor - BL 3136-1050Kv motor
ESC - 20A with a Deans connector or EC3 connector*
Servos - 4 x 9g
Wing - removable, 2 plastic quick bolts
Battery (supplied by - 1300mAh 3S 11.1V 25C LiPo, Weight - 105.3g, 3.71oz w/Deans connector
Transmitter - 4-Channel 2.4GHz model FS-i4, FlySky protocol
Receiver - 6-Channel 2.4GHz model FS-A6, FlySky protocol
Flaps and lights - NONE
Construction - EPO Foam

* supplies their ESCs with an EC3 connector.


Other reviews I have done are:

1. Dynam Hawk Sky V2 RTF Glider Airplane
The RCGs review link of the Dynam Hawk Sky V2 is HERE.
The product link of the Dynam Hawk Sky V2 is HERE.

2. Halloween 1031 RTF Quadcopter
The RCGs review link of the Halloween 1031 RTF Quadcopter with blinking lights is HERE.
The product link of the Halloween 1031 RTF Quadcopter with blinking lights is HERE.

3. WL Toys F959 Glider Airplane
The RCGs review of the WL Toys F959 glider is HERE.
The product link for the WL Toys F959 glider is HERE.

4. XK A1200 RTF Glider Airplane
The RCGs review for the XK A1200 1200mm wingspan RTF airplane glider is HERE.
The product link for the XK A1200 1200mm wingspan RTF airplane glider is HERE at GearBest for $154.64 with FREE SHIPPING.

5. JJRC Q-39 4WD 1:12 scale Highlander Desert Truck RFR - Blue
The RCGs review of the JJRC Q-39 Highlander Desert Truck is HERE.
The product link for the JJRC RC Desert Q39 HIGHLANDER 1:12 4WD Truck – RTR Blue is HERE at GearBest for $68.99 with FREE SHIPPING.

6. RS-220 Racing Quad PNP
The RCGs review link of the RS-220 Racing Quad is HERE.
The product link for the RS-220 Racing Quad PNP Version is HERE.
The product link for the RS-220 Racing Quad RTF Version is HERE.


I have also created a DATA REFERENCE SOURCE at RCGs for the following models.

WL Toys V913 Fixed Pitch Helicopter reference link is HERE.
A product link to the V913 Brushed motor version RTF model is HERE at GearBest for $77.72 with FREE SHIPPING.

E-flite 1.2M Spitfire with SAFE Airplane reference link is HERE.

FMS 1400mm P-40B Warhawk Airplane reference link is HERE.

Dynam Cessna 188 AGwagon Crop Duster Airplane reference link is HERE.
Last edited by hifinsword; Sep 07, 2017 at 06:56 PM.
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Apr 18, 2016, 03:48 AM
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Shipping/Delivery, Unboxing

I received my FMS 1220mm Super EZ RTF model 14 days after the order was placed with They have them priced at $139.93 plus $24.92 shipping for a price of $164.85 delivered. It arrived via DHL in a large box that held the FMS box. The outside shipping box was wrapped in heavy paper and 2 shipping bands were around the box inside the paper wrap. Despite a few dents on the corners of the FMS box, there was no damage to the aircraft.

Unwrapping was uneventful, but do be careful removing the paper so that you don't cut into something you had wished you hadn't. The outer box can be removed by cutting the top and end seams and then opening as shown in the pictures below. Opening the FMS box is also shown.
Last edited by hifinsword; Sep 29, 2016 at 08:25 AM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:49 AM
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Parts & Assembly

The rudder/vertical stabilizer tail empennage comes already assembled, but without the control rods attached. In fact all of the control rods/clevises and clevis safety bands for the ailerons, elevator and rudder come packed in their own individually labelled plastic bags.

The elevator and rudder bags also contain the servo arm and servo arm screws.

The AILERON control horns, control horn backing plates, clevises with control rods attached, clevis keepers and screws for the control horns come in their own plastic bag and must be secured to the wing.

The elevator/horizontal stabilizer come packed separately. Two small screws are packed with the landing gear assembly screw package to attach the elevator/horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage.

The fuselage, vertical stab/rudder, motor, ESC, and the battery access cover come together already assembled.

The receiver is already connected to the proper leads for the throttle, and the 3 control surfaces. It is not secured to the fuselage. I used double-side self-adhesive foam tape to secure it to the Rx bay.

The battery compartment has a plywood or plastic floor with 2 battery straps and a Velcro strip, with a corresponding mating strip, already attached for use with the supplied 1300mAh LiPo battery.

The FMS 10x5 prop comes attached with tape to the 3mm CF elevator spar.

The plastic wing mounting quick lock screws and plastic prop mounting plates and spinner come in their own separate bag.

NOTE: See my POST #9 before starting your assembly.

Even for a beginner, this plane is easy to assemble. I recommend the following steps using the supplied manual for clarification. The steps having to do with the servos and control horns can be considered as a separate phase of the assembly procedure. The steps below are designed to get all the little parts on to either the wing or the fuselage. This way the parts on the table can be minimized. After that you are dealing with 2 major parts and the control horns and servos that go on them.

1. Attach the elevator/horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage.
2. Attach the landing gear to the fuselage.
3. Attach the prop with its prop spinner to the motor.
4. Secure the Rx in the Rx bay with double-sided foam tape or Velcro.
5. Attach the aileron control horns to the wing.
See my my POST #9 below, once again.
6. Center the servos
7. Attach the control rods to their respective servos and control arms for the aileron, rudder and elevator.
8. Trim the servos for alignment with their respective control surfaces.
9. Attach the wing to the fuselage using the plastic bolts. The initial install is very difficult. You can sand the hook ends of the bolts to make it easier. I didn't and it felt like they were about to break as I twisted them. Sand them. They do loosen up on subsequent installations.

Setting up the control surfaces takes more time than anything else in the assembly.

Once you determine which holes to put the connecting rods in (Page 9 of the manual), you have to center the servos and adjust them for zero trim. The clevises must be turned on the rod to lengthen or shorten them so that the control surfaces are even with the wing and horizontal & vertical stabilizer surfaces. It may sound intimidating for a beginner but it's much easier once you've done one. But it does take time to do properly.

"Killer Planes video on securing the wing bolts"

RC PLANE TINY TIP - How to Secure Fasteners Featuring the FMS Supr EZ (1 min 25 sec)
Last edited by hifinsword; Jul 04, 2016 at 04:41 AM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:50 AM
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FMS 3136-Kv1050 BL Motor & Cowl area

To remove the motor, you first remove the prop and spinner. Then you can remove the foam nose section by removing the 2 screws visible in the front of the nose of the airplane. I used a #0 PH screwdriver.

Then you remove the 4 screws holding the motor's X-mount to the motor board. I used a #1PH screwdriver. To remove the motor from the ESC you have to get to where the wires connect. It's not easy. It's a tight fit and the THROTTLE wire on the ESC is wrapped around one of the battery straps under the battery mount. Be careful to not pull too hard or you may pull the THR wire or battery wires off the ESC. Don't forget to disconnect the THR wire from the Rx.

Make sure you take a picture or write down which color wires from the ESC and motor are connected to each other. Mine were yellow to yellow, red to black and black to red. If you get it wrong, it won't be easy to swap two wires to reverse the motor if you've reinstalled everything. Maybe do a quick check without the prop if you're installing a new motor to ensure the direction is right?

If you're doing regular maintenance or installing a new motor, now is the time to lubricate the motor and apply Loctite to the Prop Adapter and X-mount screws.

X-Mount - motor mount holes are 16x19mm apart diagonally. Holes to mount X-Mount to the fuselage are 42x42mm apart diagonally.

Reinstalling the ESC was a challenge. I had to wrap the wires on the ESC that go to the motor in tape so they would all go through the cavity out to the front so I could connect them to the motor wires. Once connected I decided to wrap each motor wire connection in clear tape, just as they were when stock. It's cheap insurance, probably not needed, but why not. You could even use heat shrink.
Last edited by hifinsword; Apr 19, 2017 at 08:58 AM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:50 AM
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Prop, Prop Adapter and Spinner; Thrust Angles, SOME "Limited Static Data"


BG as of 1 May 2017, has about 6 spare parts and both a RTF & PNP model. You can find them HERE. And they are much cheaper than the standard suppliers.

The supplied propeller is a FMS 2-blade 10x5in prop. It's thick, not a thin slow fly type prop. But it's also brittle. I broke one with just a slight prop strike on the ground on a landing.

The pictures below show how the propeller is mounted. I was comfortable that the spinner was on tight enough at finger-tight. You may not be comfortable with that. You can further tighten the spinner by gaining some leverage by putting a small screwdriver in one of the holes in the spinner, but use caution. The plastic is hard and could easily crack.

Another option is to use Blue Loctite on the nut inside the spinner. Again you must use caution since Loctite and plastic do not mix well. Keep the Loctite only on the shaft and the nut.

EDIT: 1 May 2017
After 2 hard nose-in crashes (due to stab problems) I can say without a doubt the spinner is tough. It may crack but I have not had a problem with the tip coming loose by only finger tightening the tip. In fact I had to drill a hole through the spinner and use a screwdriver as leverage to take the spinner off after the crashes. The original is still useable but not pretty.

I don't have a tool to measure the angles accurately but I did take some pictures so you can decide what "down" and "right" thrust angles we have here.

STATIC DATA: This prop pulls 14 amps peak which quickly drops to 13 amps. This is on the stock ESC & motor. I did not record the watts but will try to my next outing.
Last edited by hifinsword; May 01, 2017 at 04:13 AM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:51 AM
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FlySky (FS) FS-i4 Transmitter (Tx) or Controller

OEM Stock Tx
The stock Tx supplied is the FlySky FS-i4 model, a basic 4Ch Tx. It does have channel reversing capabilities but that's it. There is no way to allow dual rates or exponential. It takes 4AA batteries. It does not have a charge port for rechargeable batteries.

It has no memory or timer or Throttle Cut.

The manual say it has dual antennas. If they are like the new Spektrum models, they would be at 90 degrees to each other and the 2nd antenna would be in the handle.

The rear port is described as a DSC Port: PS2 PPM.

The manual is very basic, as is the Tx itself. A link to the manual can be found here at Banggood's product page. It's at the bottom of the page just after the "FEATURES" writeup.

FlySky (FS) is both a manufacturer of RC equipment and a protocol for RC transmission. When I got it, I was not sure if this Tx used the FS protocol. It does in fact. I recently reviewed the RS220 220mm RTF Racing Quad from GearBest, which came with the FlySky FS-i6 Tx. Both units show the AFHDS2A protocol on the face of the Tx. My review of the RS220 Racing Quad can be found HERE.

It does have the Futaba-based (versus Spektrum-based) channel sequence of AETR - channels 1, 2, 3 & 4 respectively. I tried binding it to my WL Toys V913, which uses a different version of the FS protocol, but had no luck. I also tried binding my WL Toys F959 OEM Tx (FS protocol) to the FMS Super EZ but no luck there either. I suspect this OEM FS-i4 Tx uses a slightly different protocol than the other WLToys helos and quads. The FS-i6 is a 6Ch Tx but can be hacked into a 10Ch Tx. For the price, an excellent Tx.

ALTERNATE Txs and Rxs:
If you decide to buy the PNP model and are not familiar with RC transmission protocols, you should read up on them before buying a system. For a basic guide, but not overly technical, I recommend my blog on "The Beginner's Guide to RC Protocols". It's not complete but will be a good primer for newbies.
Last edited by hifinsword; Apr 22, 2017 at 05:05 AM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:52 AM
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FlySky (FS) FS-A6 Receiver (Rx)

The Rx is the FlySky FS-A6 model 6-Ch receiver that comes with the FS-i4 Tx. It is capable of receiving 6 channels but if you use the included FS-i4 Tx, you will only have 4 channels available. There is a FS-A6B model out that I guess is an upgraded version of this model.

The Rx comes already wired up to the ELE - Ch2, THR - Ch3 & the RUD - Ch4. It is not secured. I used some double-sided foam tape, available at Lowe's or Home Depot, to secure it near the rear of the Radio bay. A sidewall installation probably would have been easier if you want to change anything on the receiver by making it easier to access. There's plenty of room should I want to add a stabilizer, light control box, etc. later.

The servo wires for the L&R ailerons are in place on Ch1 of the Rx. You will have to insert the female leads into the male leads of the L&R servo wires coming out of the center of the wing. The wires are just long enough. If you think you will be removing the wing often, you might want to add servo extensions to make it easier.

My Rx was bound to the Tx out of the box. A Bind plug comes with the Super EZ in case your Rx is not bound to the Tx.
Last edited by hifinsword; Apr 24, 2016 at 05:22 PM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:52 AM
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F M S 20 Amp E S C

The stock ESC that comes with the FMS Super EZ seems small for this size airplane. But it performs well and I have not had a problem with performance so far. The wires to the BL Motor are wedged in tight under the battery compartment and the THROTTLE wire is wrapped around one of the battery straps. I don't know if that was intentional or accidental.

After removing the ESC, I did not wrap the THR wire back around the battery strap. I do not think it will be a problem. There is plenty of space for the ESC and it has plenty of airflow to the inside of the fuselage. The tension between the battery wires and the motor wires will keep it from moving very much. I could easily tape it in place but that might restrict airflow to cool one side only rather than both as it sits now.
Last edited by hifinsword; Jun 11, 2017 at 04:58 AM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:53 AM
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Setup of flight control surfaces

This is one of the most important steps in setting up your plane. The manual puts it on page 9 but doesn't mention how important it is to have the servos centered before putting the servo arms on the servo or hooking up the connecting rods to the servo arms. Centering servo arms means they are at 90 degrees to the direction of travel.

Most of the RTF or PNP/PNF/BNF models I have received already have the servo arms centered, servo connecting rods hooked up and set for zero trim. You will have to install AND ADJUST the clevises for this plane yourself. But don't install them until you have centered your servo arms.
All of the servos, 2 AIL, 1 ELE & 1 RUD, are already installed. But only the aileron servos have their servo arms already attached. You must attach the elevator and rudder servo arms. Again, do not attach them to the servos until you have centered the servos.

Before you bind the Tx to the Rx, make sure the prop is removed. Or you can unplug some or all of the 3 leads to the motor. This precaution is in case the THROTTLE channel is reversed on your Tx for the correct direction. Mine was correct but you can never be sure if yours will be until it is bound.
Imagine the danger if your stick is at the bottom but the prop & motor go full throttle as soon as you bind the plane.

To center the servos, make sure the connecting rods are not installed, the motor is disconnected or the prop removed, and power up the plane (assuming you are using the installed Rx hooked up to the ESC), or power the servos directly using a servo tester. Since the Rx is installed and powered with the servos attached, the servos will center. If you use a servo tester, it eliminates powering up the plane and the precaution of removing the prop or disconnecting the motor. Make sure the servos are centered before connecting the servo arms to the connecting rods.

The setup on Page 9 of the manual shows the ELE having the minimum throw. The RUD is set for maximum throws. The AIL throws show a medium setting. This is how the plane was setup and flown for my review up to the 8th flight. I will reduce the aileron throws for use with the stock Tx. I plan to eventually use my Spektrum DX18 and a Spektrum compatible receiver with my EZ. That will give me a timer, exponential and different control surface rates.

I would recommend a newbie follow the directions on Page 9 of the manual, but reduce the throws for the AILERONS only. Maximum rudder throw may be needed. It will rarely cause a crash if used, unless it is used continuously and at the maximum throw. If you feel the aileron throws are too low for you after the maiden flight, increase the throws to your comfort level.

*If after a few flights you want max throws on the AILs, move the control rod to the inner most hole on the control horn and the outer most hole on the servo arm.

Page 8 of the manual shows the recommended throws as follows:
Hi Rates
ELE 15mm up/down
AIL 15mm up/down
RUD 12mm up/down

Lo Rates
ELE 10mm up/down
AIL 10mm up/down
RUD 8mm up/down

Separate HIGH & LOW rates is not achievable using the RTF Tx that comes with the RTF version.

Don't forget to put the servo arm screws in the center of the arm and tighten them. It's easy to forget.

The next important step is making sure the control surfaces of the plane are moving the correct direction. Once you've bound the Tx and Rx, check the movement of the surfaces for correct movement using Page 7 of the manual.

Once you've done all this and reinstalled the prop, I'd say you are ready for the maiden flight. That assumes it's a nice, low-wind day if you're a beginner. That also assumes you know how to use the Tx and some experience with a simulator or RC craft and know something about what to expect. A complete newbie (less than a month of experience, or 10 safe landings, whichever comes last) should be under the instruction of a flight instructor. Things complete newbies may not know about like charging batteries, antenna placement, keeping body parts out of prop arcs, etc. are beyond the scope of this thread. The etc. covers a lot. There are plenty of threads here to help you out so get reading if you're not sure about some aspect of the hobby. I am writing this with a slant towards beginners so I hope I am not insulting the intelligence of the more advanced and intermediate RC pilots out there.

Anyone, especially a beginner will need a large park to fly the EZ, away from people, houses, cars and buildings. If all goes well, you probably can keep the plane within boundaries and there will be no problems. But things don't always go as planned. Things break on the plane, or batteries die at the least opportune times. Such things happen and you can't count on everything going perfectly. Murphy's law still applies. Probably the number 1 reason for my crashes as a beginner was flying in an area too small for the aircraft. Pick as large an area you can find for your first flight. The local flight club may have a program of instruction for beginners. That's a safe way to enter the hobby and minimize the incidence of needing repairs.
Last edited by hifinsword; May 14, 2017 at 09:16 AM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:53 AM
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Flight review

DAY 1:
The maiden flight was 16 April. A second flight was also flown the same day to evaluate the effect on CG of a heavier battery. The same 2 batteries were used on 17 April to evaluate the battery placement on the flight characteristics of the plane.

The wind was strong and steady for the most part. Winds were forecast to be 10-15, gusting to 20mph. In actuality they were slightly less, maybe 8-12mph. The temps were very comfortable in the high 60 degree range. The sun was out and the skies blue. I fly at a club field with nothing but farmland and forest around it.

CG IS AT 72mm with the 1300mAh battery
With the OEM battery as far forward against the motor mount as possible, the balance is very slightly nose-heavy. The measurement was 72mm. IOT get to the recommended CG of 60mm I would have to add weight to the nose. This would not make any sense in an aircraft that is already showing signs of being nose-heavy.

I decided to go with the battery as far forward as possible, not add any weight forward, and see how that went. I reasoned that a CG of about one third the wing chord is common. My measured CG of 72 is about 31%. I planned to lift off easily and if things weren't going well, to settle back down. If the RECOMMENDED CG is correct, my plane should be tail-heavy, and it should lift off easily and early. If the plane is slightly nose-heavy as my measured CG suggests, all should be fine.

When I throttled up, the plane moved forward, with the tail coming up quickly. I held it there and continued to add power. As I added still more power I realized the plane was staying put and wasn't tail-heavy, but acting slightly nose-heavy (this agrees with my balance test). I got airborne and was able to easily maneuver the plane. My flight was similar to some of the others I had read online.

Just as in the other flights by other well-regarded RC pilots I've read about online, the plane had just barely enough power to do a loop. My CG was set at 72mm aft of the LE. The flights by the other RC pilots were set with a CG of 60mm. I was able to roll the plane just fine, and it handled the wind very well. I did several approaches and T&Gs. It was something of a floater in the strong wind.

CG IS AT 73mm with the 1800mAh battery:
So I brought out the heavier 1800mAh batt and had a very similar flight to the maiden. Takeoffs were long and I had to pull back on the elevator to get airborne. Flying straight and level required about 2/3rds to 3/4 throttle, higher than what I am used to. All of my planes fly S&L at half throttle to 60%.

Loops were still barely doable at full throttle with the heavier battery at a CG of 73mm aft of the wing's LE.

The pictures below show an almost level topline at a CG of 72 or 73mm. If anything, the pictures below are of a nose-heavy plane, not tail-heavy that the RECOMMENDED CG of 60mm would suggest.

DAY 2:

After the maiden flight and before the 2nd day of flying: I put the batteries in the plane and measured each with the battery moved back. The front edge of the stock 1300mAh batt was even with the front edge of the forward battery strap. The CG measures 76mm.

I did the same with the 1800mAh battery. It sat in the middle of the straps with equal amounts exposed fore and aft of the straps. The CG measures 78mm.

CG IS AT 76mm with the supplied 1300mAh battery:
I flew the supplied 1300mAh batt first with the CG at 76mm and the battery aft as described above. As I moved the throttle forward on takeoff, the plane lifted off with minimum back stick at about 3/4 to full throttle. I went up to a safe 3 mistakes high level and did a nice full loop with no problem. I was able to fly straight and level at half to 60% throttle. Approaches and landings were fine. This configuration felt good and there was no need to add power above half to 60% throttle to stay level.

There was plenty of power for loops with the CG at 76mm, not just barely enough as it was on the maiden with a CG at 72/73mm.

CG IS AT 78mm with the 1800mAh battery:
Flying the heavier 1800mAh battery was even better. This plane just flies better with a CG somewhere around the mid to high 70mm range of CG. I did not try looping from a slow start but with the Throttle moved up to above three quarters, the plane has plenty of power to do full loops from a level start - no dive is needed to increase speed. That is in contrast to the earlier flights with a CG in the low 70s vs the mid to high 70s (mm aft of the wing's LE).

I know there can be differences in foam density that could account for different CGs, but this big a difference of 15-20mm is not in that category. I believe adding weight is to be avoided when possible. I find the CG at 76 to 78mm to be the best configuration so far.


This plane falls straight ahead gently, and without any slip to the side when stalled.
Last edited by hifinsword; Apr 24, 2016 at 06:48 PM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:54 AM
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Battery and Charger

OEM supplied FMS Battery
The supplied battery says it is a FMS brand 1300mAh battery, rated at 25C. It's a 3 cell (3S) LiPo with a Deans power connector. I flew the maiden flight with this battery shoved as far forward as possible. The measured CG was 72mm aft of the wing's LE.

ALTERNATE heavier battery
After the maiden flight with the supplied OEM battery, I flew the plane with a 25C 1800mAh 3S LiPo with a Deans connector. That battery is not quite a year old with 44 flights on it prior to this flight with the Super EZ. I used the 1800mAh battery because I could not get the CG to the recommended 60mm CG. I thought more weight up front would bring the nose down and the CG to 60mm or at least closer. With this battery shoved up forward as far as possible, the CG was at 73mm aft of the wing's LE.

Any 3S LiPo battery rated at 25C or higher would probably do for a nice relaxing flight of circuits around the field. A 3oz or less battery will allow the plane to be considered a Park Flyer (2lbs or less). See Post #1 under the heading "CONs", item 4. "Park Flyer Rules" and the attachment for AMA Park Flyer Rules for more information.

Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) CHARGER
The charger is a basic charger. It has balance ports for both 2S & 3S batteries. It charges through the balance ports. It can only be powered by AC current. There is no DC input. I do not know if it balance charges. I would only use this in an emergency. If you know you will be continuing in this hobby, invest in a good computerized balance charger.
Last edited by hifinsword; Aug 24, 2016 at 04:52 AM.
Apr 18, 2016, 03:54 AM
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Recommendations on the FMS 1220mm Super EZ Trainer

This is a conundrum. The plane flies well and can be both a trainer and a more advanced plane if setup correctly. But a beginner may not have the skills yet to setup a plane for "tame" flight" or for more advanced maneuvers. Based on my flight experiences with my plane, the setup as presented in the manual is not correct as far as CG. Nor are the recommendations for the aileron setup for a beginner the best. It's not a perfect plane for a beginner, but only because of the setup recommendations for CG and ailerons. It could an ideal trainer plane for an intermediate or advanced flyer wanting a tame flyer for a relaxing flight. This plane falls somewhere in between ideal for a beginner and intermediate flyer if set up according to the manual. Some easy adjustments can make it ideal for anyone, regardless of their experience level.

Set your CG between 70-80mm AFT of the wing's LE.

My recommendation for an intermediate or advanced flyer is to buy the PNP model and use or buy an advanced computerized Tx and Rx to be used with the FMS Super EZ Trainer.


1. If buying either the RTF or the PNP model, my main recommendation for a beginner would to setup for less control authority on the ailerons.

This review is based on the RTF model that has a VERY limited Tx. Following the guidance provided on page 9 of the manual for less or more throws on the control surfaces should be doable by a beginner.

2. Do not fly in moderate or high wind. Although the SuprEZ does handle wind better than most planes, a beginner shouldn't add this additional factor into the workload until they have mastered getting airborne, staying there for a few mins, and landing.

The RUD is set for maximum throw on the control surface. That is fine. I don't think it will hinder your flying but the AIL throws will not help you as a beginner. Setup for less aileron throws. The ELE throws are already set to the minimum. For a beginner, that is fine. The mechanical adjustments to the control surfaces are shown on page 9 of the manual.

You will need to adjust the AIL connecting rods to minimize throws and maximize torque. Move the AIL control rod on the servo arm to the closest hole in towards the screw holding the arm onto the servo. This will reduce the throw so that you will not over control the plane.


This is my recommendation if as a beginner, you are sure you will be progressing and staying in the hobby. If you plan to continue in the hobby, save the extra $25 or so dollars and use it to buy a computerized Tx and a Rx that will allow you to set dual or triple rates and adjust them. You will then be able to buy the 100 or more planes that you will want and use with your new Tx.

Following this recommendation will require you to become familiar with what all that entails. You would also need to learn about mechanical and electrical trim, exponential, dual rates, and how to minimize or maximize control throws as a minimum. Of course there's much more to learn, but it will get you started.

Flying in windy conditions is not recommended for a beginner. Partly due to its size, this plane handles wind very well, but not well enough for a beginner to cope with it. If you are a beginner and find yourself flying in windier weather than you anticipated, you will want the longer throws for the ailerons. But a better choice is to land and fly another day. I don't think you will need longer throws on the elevator. Refer to Page 9 of the manual and adjust accordingly.
Last edited by hifinsword; Apr 27, 2016 at 03:42 AM.
Apr 18, 2016, 05:47 AM
Registered User
Bangood USA warehouse has the BNF for $99.99 + shipping and RTF 139.99 + shipping and 5% off this month. Their shipping is very reasonable.
Apr 18, 2016, 06:27 AM
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Ken Myers's Avatar
I actually found the recommended CG of 60mm to be just fine, especially for beginners. 60mm is approximately 25% of the wing chord.

My review, Part 1.

My review Part 2.
Apr 18, 2016, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken Myers
I actually found the recommended CG of 60mm to be just fine, especially for beginners. 60mm is approximately 25% of the wing chord.
, , ,
I appreciate your comments. Let's wait till I am able to post all of my review and maybe you, or I, will change our opinion. My post is based on the airplane I received and how it flew with the setups I flew with.

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