JYU Hornet S (in construction)
08/11/16: WARNING:OLDER JYU HORNET S ARE 100% NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THE GIMBAL MODULE (3min of FLIGHT TIME). NEW BATCH INTRODUCED AN HARDWARE FIX (no visible sign to recognize them)
FOR OLDER HORNET S, SEE https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1016
IT'S A REAL SHAME FROM JYU TO NOT RECALL FORMER MODELS.... I DON'T ADVISE THIS MACHINE ANYMORE
05/24/16: New firmware available improving the GPS sensitivity
04/21/16: WARNING: some crashes (linked to some Flyaway in GPS modes 1 & 2) have been reported.... Be aware ..... A new firmware should improve the situation
The JYU Hornet S is a 280mm brushless quadcopter announced to be a polyvalent model, i.e. able to carry indifferently a FPV module, a pure 1080 camera module or a 2D-gimbal+1080p module. The installation takes just in a fraction of second. In standalone configuration, the Hornet S is also announced to be fast, 120 km/h are promised ... More via a wrist module, you can have a follow me function. I will review first the basic edition, the RTF quadcopter standalone without any module. In a second step, I will update with (I hope) the FPV and 2D-gimbal modules.
+ 1 x JYU Hornet S (with a 3S 2500mAh LiPo with proprietary connector)
+ 1 x Transmitter (with builtin battery)
+ 1 x USB to microUSB charging cable (for the transmitter)
+ 1 x LiPo charger
+ 8 x Spare props (4 CW, 4 CCW)
+ 4 x Landing plastic feet
+ 1 x Instruction manual (Chinese only)
Two very beautiful boxes are here, one for the quad, one for the transmitter
Everything is very well protected for transportation.
Only a small instruction manual 100% in chinese was there . Luckely you can find attached in #2 the English version.
The general design shows some flattened forms especially for the top part. All the structure is made of plastic not too hard, not too soft, seems to be a really good quality one.... but no sign of visible 3K elements.
With these translucide landing gears, the ground clearance is pretty low, 2-3cm maximum.
Like for fishes, latteral holes are here to cool internal parts
Without the battery
The last two right pins can be used to plug the +12.6V while the two left ones to plug the GND. I am pretty sure, we can build easily a DIY cable to connect any standard 3S LiPo. I will probably propose this mod in few days.
On top, a metallic structure, probably to play the role of a Faraday's cage to protect the GPS module
With the battery inserted
a 280mm quadcopter
A microUSB is here to connect the Hornet S to a ground station software
With the basic edition, a front plastic cap is installed over front compartement. This bay can welcome either the FPV module or the pure 1080p camera module
On the bottom part, another port to install main probably the 2D gimbal module
Here is the voltage I measured associated with these two ports.
For the Gimbal port, the max voltage is 3S between pins 5 (GND)&6 (VCC) (according to the photo annotation) while for the FPV port the max voltage is 3.3V between pin 2(GND) and pin 6 (+3.3V). Associated with the poor ground clearance offered by the feet, I am afraid that for the FPV module, a builtin linear antenna will be used .... I hope there will be at least a uFL/IPX connector to attach our own antenna.
Each landing foot is plastic based, probably not very robust to an hard landing. The lights of the front one can be tuned via the radio, a nice option to personalize your night flights
Without the battery
and with close to 588g....
Some selftighting 6032 props
For this categorie some classic 2206 type are installed
with a circular 5mm shaft diameter
Last edited by SeByDocKy; Nov 05, 2016 at 11:49 AM.
A proprietary "smart" battery with a 2500mAh capacity.
A 8 pins connector
As for the cheerson CX-22, in order to power on the Hornet S or to recharge the battery you need to first briefly to press the power button then within the same second long press again more than 2s to boot definitively the battery.
I don't know if this "smart" battery includes also some auto-storage functionality....
4 green LEDS are located front to indicate the remaining amount of charge
Here is the pinout of the actual connector
Since my charger was out of order, I need to build a DIY cable to recharge the battery
Two outputs are present. One USB to charge the transmitter via the USB to microUSB cable
The proprietary connector, a 8 pins models
Actually, I was not able yet to disassemble the Hornet S.... 3xM3 hexscrews are stripped.... IMHO their quality are very bad and it can a source of problem for the general maintenance of the machine.
A superb DJI style transmitter very ergonomic is given
On the front panel, two upper buttons. The left one changes the front LEDs quad animation. At least 3 different modes are available. The right upper button is used to turn on/off video recording (long press) or to take photo. In the central part, three extra buttons, i.e. two push buttons and one 3-positions vertical slider. The middle vertical slider permits to select one of three flight modes. The first (slider in bottom position) and second (slider in central position) are both a flight mode with GPS & Barometer assistance. The only difference are the limited rates and reduced max speed for the beginner mode versus the intermediate. The last flight mode, so-called "expert" mode, permits to fly the Hornet S without any GPS & barometers but the autoleveling of the 6-axis stabilization chip is still here. The expert mode is equivalent of the classic Horizon mode. Maybe there will be a way to fly the Hornet in real "accro"/"rate" mode via the ground station software but actually it's not possible. The left push button is associated to the RTH functionalities. If briefly pressed on it, you engage RTH from the last default RTH point (if not reset previously, the take off point) but if you long press on it, you can set to your current position the RTH point. Be aware to never get wrong (like I was the first time) by first long press the RTH button because in this case, you won't see the quad returning home. The right push button is associated with the autolanding/autotake off features. First of all, as for the RTH, you need a perfect reception of your GPS/glonass data (a solid green light on rear LEDs). If you briefly press the button, you will engage the autolanding (of course if the quad is in the air), if long-pressed, you start the autotake-off. These two functionalities are only available in flight mode 1 & 2 (beginner/intermediate)
Two shoulders auto-centralized pots can be found. The left one is associated with front lights configuration. Via this pot, you can tune among 10 000 color combinaisons the front LEDs. The right one permits to control the tilt axis of the 2D gimbal module.
Finally, two rear buttons can be found. They select one of the 7 5.8G frequencies of the FPV part. All these frequencies belong the Boscam Band E.
Two USB plugs can be found too. The micro one is used to recharge the internal LiPo. The larger model probably power the FPV monitor associated with the FPV module bundle (to be confirmed)
A small 2.5mm jack plug is present. Probably an AVout (to be confirmed)
When the pairing is done, you should see a green small light of the left side of the status notification zone. If the battery is correctly charged, you should also see a green light on the right side. It turns to red when below a nominal value
The transmitter is relatively light
I appreciate to foldable builtin FPV mount
Ground station software
First of all, there is the V2 of the sotware available. Here is a step by step procedure to correctly install drivers & software:
1) Install the app 2.0: http://en.jyu.com/Download/HornetSApp.zip After installation, you can check but no possibility to connect successfully after 1)
2) During installation, it will ask to install some drivers... (2 in total), of course answer yes
3)USB not plugged yet, Power on the quad wait after talalatalala" the unique treeble sound .... then now connect the USB....
If don't wait this second unique treeble sound, the port com won't appear in the list.
4 Run the Groundstation software, select the COM available now
5) To calibrate transmitter, you will need to connect the radio via microUSB to another PC USB port.
For first time the associated driver should be installed
Then go to the RC settings tab of the App V2.0
13) Turn on the radio .... Here no mouvements appearing on the scree when moving stics.
14) Press "calibration" and now you should see some mouvement. As soon as you don't save ... I don't think there is an incidence
You have 4 tab for the sofware
- The first one tunes some flight caracteristic but more some ascend/descend speed, yaw speed and max elevation for example.
You have to press "read" to read current settings, save to save some new values ... and a calbration button
The maximum altitude is limited to 120m with flight modes 1 & 2....
Noticed when the USB plug is connected, the Hornet S is no more installed perfectly horizontally as you can see
A solution: install the Hornet S over 4 identical glasses:
- The second tab controls the light bahaviour
- The third the RC settings. you can calibrate transmitter with this way
- The last tab is dedicaced to flash new firmware for the Hornet S or the radio
a) To flash a new firmware for the Hornet S, just press the associated button. If a new Firmware is available, it will write it after the loading. It's a pity than no current installed firmware version is written somewhere and/or to proceed to an offline flashing to flash for example a formet known 100% working version.
b) To flash a new firmware to the transmitter, you need first to press the top left "light button" when powering the radio. If not, you will a error msg during the writing stage.
LED status signification
The two rear LEDS indicates the current status of the quad according to the following table
Everytime you moved more than 100km from your last flight location, you need to redo the compass calibration. Here two ways are offered
- The "dizzy dance" method
- The "Kkd playing plane" method
Here an official video from JYU with basic instructions, especially the compass calibration (from 3:17)
New demo flight with full RTH & Failsafe testings
Out of the box, the first beginner mode is very slow in all directions, yaw, pitch, roll, ascent... This mode ultra assisted by the GPS is here to practice to fly. I have to admit associated with the auto-take off and auto-landing... this solution represents a much less stressing system for beginners and also well adapted to shoot some videos with the upcoming 2D gimbal system. The intermediate modes uses the same flight assistance (GPS + baro) but increased all rates ... For Advanced flyer, the more interesting is the last flight mode supressing the GPS & baro helps. Here only the 6-axis stabilization algorithm is working. Of course, expect much sporty atttiude while keeping stable. To be honest and as you can see in videos, I don't think the hornet achieves with actual default settings the top speed of 120 km/h more something like 70-80km/h IMHO. I noticed also the autostabilization is not so stronge like if P values are a little bit weak. It takes a fraction of second more to be perfectly stabilized. Maybe they will update a firmware with better tuned PIDs but actually I regret the non-possibility for expert to tune these settings via the Ground Station Software. In another hand I really appreciate how stable is the system in flight mode 1 or 2. Be aware, RTH can be engaged only in flight mode bigginners or intermediate (seems logical seems GPS & baro are turned off in expert mode).
With assistance, the deviation is less than 50cm in altitude hold and less than 2m in RTH. I really do hope that for FPV version some informations will be display via an OSD (I can't confirm that one is installed actually)... If I can perfectly understand the choice of the Flight mode 1 & 2 for the gimbal & 1080p camera version, the expert mode with 6-axis stabilization raise an open question: Can we expect a real "accro/rage" modes for this "expert" settings if associated with the FPV module ?. I am also a little bit disapointed by the flight times 14-15mins before to have first alarm LEDs (18%-20% re^maining).
As you can see in this new video, the emergency landing at very low voltage is efficient. By the way it's a pretty good machine. I hope they will be able to tune a little bit better some PIDs settings even if they are already pretty good.
CONCLUSIONS FOR THE BASIC EDITION
Let's conclude first for the basic edition only. Do I highly recommend the hornet S in the basic edition ? Well to be honest, no so much... Why to have some efficient flight assistance functions if it's to flight in LOS conditions at the end? no real interest except for a beginner who is sure later to add some Hornet S modules. More, I feel the FPV port system hard to mod/to install a none-JYU modules ....I found such moddings completly non-intelligent (if you want to install your own DYI FPV module into the hornet, start more from an open plateform instead). In another hand, Is the Hornet S a bad machine ? absolulptly not .... I would say it's a pretty good machine, accurate relatively fast and stable ...
To conclude, the interest of the Hornet S basic edition without any addicitional module is really limited, like a football match without pop corns .... . Now, which extra module I would advise the more ? I will answer more the gimbal one because:
1) The expert mode don't offer a real accro mode in general associated with FPV racer for the FPV module
2) The FPV module spécifications, espcially the goggles don't impressed me (low res goggles screen for example)
For me, I see more the Hornet S as a mini Phantom plateform with potentially follow me functionalities.
+ Beautiful packaging
+ Nice and confortable transmitter
+ Good radio range
+ Cool light effects
+ Builtin TX battery charged via USB
+ Ultra accurate GPS holding position
+ Ultra stable beginner rate
+ Auto takeoff/landing features
- Interest of the basic edition limited.
- With default setting, don't run at 120km/h
- Bad quality M3 hexscrews
- No accro mode
- Proprietary battery
- Need to raise the Hornet S to properly calibrate accelero (USB plug let incline the quad)
- 120m altitude limitation with flight modes 1 & 2
This quadcopter have been courtesy provided by Banggood in order to make a fair and not biased review. I would like to thank them for this attitude.
You can find it actually for 250USD (for the basic edition) at http://www.banggood.com/JYU-Hornet-S-HornetS-Racing-5_8G-FPV-With-Goggles-Gimbal-With-12MP-HD-Camera-RC-Quadcopter-p-1025118.html
Last edited by SeByDocKy; Apr 14, 2016 at 02:07 AM.
FC F/W update
0) Be sure to have driver correctly installed
1) be sure to have the last software version: http://en.jyu.com/wp-content/uploads...HornetSApp.zip
2) plug the USB to the Hornet S and to the PC
3) Turn on the battery
4) run the software
5) Press Update... then here the flashing procedure will work
Radio F/W update
0) Be sure to have driver correctly installed
1) plug the USB to the Hornet S radio and to the PC
2) Turn on the radio while pressing the light button
3) run the software
4) Press TX Update... then here the flashing procedure will work
A video is better than ton of words:
Last edited by SeByDocKy; Aug 08, 2016 at 01:51 AM.
-How to use a normal charger
Not sure it will be more clear but:
You will need
1) JST-XH 3S balancer female plug (for your Professional charger connextion)
2) JST-XH 3S balancer male plug (optional if you want to continue use the original JYU charger)
3) XT60 or Tdean female connector (for your Professional charger connextion)
0) With a DMM voltage mode, identy/locate pins 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8. Turns on the battery and check if you have positive or negative voltage.
1) cut the JYU charger cable. You will find 4 wires respectively the balancer plug (3S(3),2S(4),1S(5),GND(6)). For GND and 3S wires, remove a little bit more isoland coz you will need to do two soldering job on each of them
2) Solder the JST-XH female plug correspondly (in general the black must be the GND, then gradual color to red for the max voltage)
3) optional solder the JST-XH male plug to the other part of the cutted wire, JYU charger side
4) Solder the XT60 connector pins: the + to the 3 and the GND to the 6....
5) Protect everything with heatshrink, electric liquid tape
Last edited by SeByDocKy; Jul 16, 2016 at 12:12 AM.
I can't answer to this question because
1) I didn't test yet the Hubsan H501S
2) I think is not fair to compare the Hornet S basic edition with the H501S.
Btw, I will Hornet S software configuration later and of course more test flight.
I am upset to not be able to disassemble the Hornet due to these 3 stripped hexscrews ....
actually what I can say after 9-10 min of flight, I got 47% of remaining battery .... so we should be around 15-16min IMHO.... Need to be confirmed. I will practive more testing flights today I hope if our "mistral" Wind is not so strong ....