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Mar 29, 2016, 07:26 PM
Remember... Fly for fun!
ALEX HEWSON's Avatar
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Discussion

DS Hardware


We all know that our demands on linkages are some of the highest in the modelling scene, also the need for zero slop to ensure the longevity of our models and ensure we can maintain the best feel and control over our models (am avoiding radio gear chat in this thread, that is an important part too, but lets focus on the more universal need for good linkages).

So what do you use?

What is your favourite DS control linkage hardware?

Where's the best place to buy good pushrod hardware in bulk for a good price?

What should we avoid, and why?

Lets get good reference going for those that may benefit in future.

I've always used Sullivan gold n clevis and threaded rod. Mainly 4-40, but sometimes 2-56 is required due to tight space or lesser loads. 2/56 threaded rod does require additional support, whether that is by splinting it, or running a tube over the outside. I Haven't worked out the best place to get these in bulk yet, so would benefit from advice there...
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Mar 29, 2016, 09:43 PM
DS Addict
Soaring Junkie's Avatar
Great thread idea, Alex.

Like you, and from what the guys here locally suggest, I have been using the Sullivan Gold n' Clevis in both 4-40 and 2-56 for anything intended for DS circuits. A LHS sells them in pairs which can get expensive at $6-7 a pop. I only use the 2-56 rods and clevises on short control rod setups and only on lighter planes.

On my Gizlite I used 4-40 rod due to the length of the controls required (about 4-5 inches), but on the light Scratcho I can get away with 2-56 being short controls (about an inch between the clevises).

On the heavy Scratcho I purchased from AvB, he installed the 4-40 rod and clevises on the control surface and used a z-bender tool on the rod for the servo horn connection, and this arrangement seems to be the most solid/slop free setup on any of the planes I have. Better get on to ordering the Z-bend tool!

I have had M2 rod and clevises supplied with a few planes, like the Schwing and Energic and I have not been happy with the flex in the rods and the clevises are twisty once ground down to suit.

Interested to hear what everyone else thinks, too.
Brent
Mar 29, 2016, 10:57 PM
Registered User
Hussle's Avatar
Preferred hinging?
Mar 30, 2016, 12:35 AM
Remember... Fly for fun!
ALEX HEWSON's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hussle
Preferred hinging?
Maybe another thread mate. Will keep this one at control rods and horns
Mar 30, 2016, 01:14 AM
U down with EPP? Ya u know me!
Aerogance's Avatar
Pull for up on a fast plane. Sullivan and DuBro parts since the quality is impeccable. 2-56 is surprisingly capable, but 4-40 is crazy strong.
Mar 30, 2016, 01:28 AM
Heavy's good, heavy's reliable
BDK74's Avatar
How about some wing bling from Winchdoc?

I like to use MP Jet aluminum clevises. I've used them for both ends. The removable pin makes for very convenient install and adjustment. I've used both M2.5 and tapped them for 4-40.
Last edited by BDK74; Mar 30, 2016 at 01:35 AM.
Mar 30, 2016, 07:24 AM
608 km/h!
josh18's Avatar
Good thread idea Alex!
For me, 4-40 threaded rod and golden clevises on everything, as thick and tall of a carbon horn that will fit and CA all the pivot points and clevis to thread joints. Pretty simple but tried and true and really does the job I reckon. I soldered the clevises shut once as Joe Manor recommended and it was rock solid but having said that Ive never popped an unsoldered golden clevis either.
I also drill the horns to (I think) 1.5mm, which is slightly undersized for the clevis pin. I then squeeze the clevis on with pliers and work it around until it is free enough- makes very slop free joints.
Cheers
Mar 30, 2016, 09:29 AM
U down with EPP? Ya u know me!
Aerogance's Avatar
Metal clevis into nylon servo arm can have slop. Put a drop of thick CA on the pin and let it kick. Work it free for a zero slop connection.
Mar 30, 2016, 10:54 AM
Hold my beer and watch this
brokengranite's Avatar
Heres one of Stu's threads about ball links. I just placed an order for some and will confirm part numbers.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2113947
Mar 30, 2016, 12:56 PM
No longer random
Screamin' Eagle's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerogance
Metal clevis into nylon servo arm can have slop. Put a drop of thick CA on the pin and let it kick. Work it free for a zero slop connection.
Heat the clevis pin with a soldering iron and it will melt the nylon horn just enough to insert the pin with a slop free fit. Can follow up with CA for ultimate tightness.
Mar 30, 2016, 01:33 PM
U down with EPP? Ya u know me!
Aerogance's Avatar
I like to CA the clevis threads when using metal clevises since that is another source of slop. This is done after pushrod length is adjusted.
Mar 30, 2016, 04:55 PM
Registered User
Hussle's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALEX HEWSON
Maybe another thread mate. Will keep this one at control rods and horns
Sure, no worries
Apr 02, 2016, 11:32 AM
Hold my beer and watch this
brokengranite's Avatar
I placed a order with AMain the other day and finally got around to taking a look.

The first set, HN7058T-1 and HN7080T use an M2 thread and 5mm ball. It also includes M2 nuts to secure them.

The second set, H60071TA and H60192T use an M3 thread and a 4.75mm ball, no nut is supplied.

I also ordered H50054T, which is about 4mm shorter and uses the 4.75mm ball (H60192T)
Apr 02, 2016, 02:12 PM
U down with EPP? Ya u know me!
Aerogance's Avatar
I prefer the 3mm thread. LocTite gets a better grip and the larger threads too.
Apr 02, 2016, 02:39 PM
Objects in mirror are losing
1000MPH's Avatar
The 3mm are nice but the threads aren't usually long enough to add a nut. Looks like those are long enough.


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