MAxford WW1 ARFs --Anyone have experience ? - RC Groups
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Mar 26, 2016, 05:38 AM
Ldm
Ldm
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MAxford WW1 ARFs --Anyone have experience ?


I was at a hobby shop in Pa and a used model caught my attention. It was a 1/5 scale Albatrause ( spell check please ). The plane was beutiful and if I did not know it was an ARF I would have surely assumed it was a kit build model.
Just wondering if anyone in the WW1 section knows about this company and their planes ?
I have been flying mostly WW2 but these planes are getting my interest.
Thanks
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Mar 29, 2016, 12:03 PM
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kdahlhaus's Avatar
Just curious what they were asking for it?
Mar 29, 2016, 07:04 PM
Ldm
Ldm
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$329 with the optional pilot, fully assembled but no servos or motor
Mar 29, 2016, 09:58 PM
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Buran's Avatar
Looks like a good deal. Maxford is fairly local to and their planes look good. I had a Jenny, quality was very good, rigging requires patience. I couldn't get over the transparent covering and sold it before flying.

In case you haven't already, here's a link to the DVa site which includes pdf assembly manual and their video.

cheers
Mar 29, 2016, 10:30 PM
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kdahlhaus's Avatar
It's currently listed at $399 - http://www.maxfordusa.com/albatrosd-iiiep40arf-1-1.aspx
Apr 04, 2016, 12:04 PM
Lori, hey, you're home early
CarreraGTSCS's Avatar
I have the big SPAD XIII and it flies great.
Apr 07, 2016, 12:34 PM
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GringoTuerto's Avatar
I have the SPAD XIII also. It is a good plane, but like many Maxford planes, the CG recommendation in the manual is waaaaay too far back.
Apr 07, 2016, 10:47 PM
Ldm
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Thanks , they seem like a good quality model .
The wheels looked like small baby carriage wheels, are they the actual wheels ?
Apr 08, 2016, 10:40 AM
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GringoTuerto's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldm
Thanks , they seem like a good quality model .
The wheels looked like small baby carriage wheels, are they the actual wheels ?
They come with wheel with plastic hub. I think wire spokes are cooler looking, but if you look at WWI photos, the spoked wheels were always covered with fabric on this plane to reduce drag, so a solid plastic wheel is actually a more accurate look - even though, as you say, it has a "baby carriage" look. I painted mine with the same color as the wings, and dry brushed a similar color so it looks like fabric. Also note that there is always a circular hole in the fabric to access the inner tube valve.
Apr 27, 2016, 11:11 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
I have a .40 sized electric powered Gee Bee Model E. Would not recommend Maxford ARF models to anyone who does not have much balsa model building, setup and flying experience. Good thing is that you choose your power system, servos, etc. Cons are:

Models are more heavily wing loaded than average scale balsa/ply models, designs may be weak in landing gear mounting, wing panels may be hard to straighten if warped due to carbon fiber leading edges and spars, hardware provided may need to be replaced with larger/better standard hobby fasterners, pushrods, and clevises. Instructions recommend too small brushless motors and servos and may be inadequate, unclear or misleading. Recommended CG may be way off. It may be almost the same amount of work to build a model from a kit or plans with better outcome.
Last edited by E-Challenged; Apr 27, 2016 at 11:17 AM.
Apr 27, 2016, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Challenged
I have a .40 sized electric powered Gee Bee Model E. Would not recommend Maxford ARF models to anyone who does not have much balsa model building, setup and flying experience. Good thing is that you choose your power system, servos, etc. Cons are:

Models are more heavily wing loaded than average scale balsa/ply models, designs may be weak in landing gear mounting, wing panels may be hard to straighten if warped due to carbon fiber leading edges and spars, hardware provided may need to be replaced with larger/better standard hobby fasterners, pushrods, and clevises. Instructions recommend too small brushless motors and servos and may be inadequate, unclear or misleading. Recommended CG may be way off. It may be almost the same amount of work to build a model from a kit or plans with better outcome.
Well, I wouldn't put it quite that harshly - ARF is much much easier than a kit, even if you have to replace some HW. But I agree with many of the points. For example, none of the Maxford ARFS that I know of have a "floating axle" so that you can put bungees for the landing gear. They just use a hard wire frame connected to the fuse. This is fine for smaller models, but when you get up to 1/6 or 1/5 size, that seems insufficient for shock absorption. You can modify it, but that is not easy.

So I guess it depends how particular you are. I switched out some things, and didn't switch out other things. It was definitely way faster than building from scratch, but then you have to live with what you accept. I like mine fine, but maybe I'm not super particular either. It looks good and flies well, but I suppose I could improve it.

Also, note that something like putting in a better motor or better servos does not take any more time than putting in a poor motor or poor servos. But other modifications take time, if you choose to do them.
Apr 27, 2016, 07:12 PM
Ldm
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I have never met an ARF I have not bashed so I guess I would be fine with the Maxford brand.
It really depends now on choices in the market vs Maxford
May 13, 2016, 03:02 AM
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Maxfordusa specialise in WW1 and pre WW1 planes. I have the bleriot, the jenny, the rumpler taube, curtiss pusher, gotha bomber, bristol fighterand more. They are all fine kit and the albatros dva looks wonderful.

Here is my bleriot ready for take off

May 13, 2016, 01:11 PM
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GringoTuerto's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9V1JP

Here is my bleriot ready for take off
I have that one, and with the CG set according to the manual it was totally unflyable. I was lucky to recover it with only minor damage. Have you flown it yet? Where did you set the CG?
Jun 20, 2016, 02:13 PM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
To be fair, it may be that the Maxford Gee Bee E ( actually more of a Model Y) has more unfortunate design features than others in their line. Mine had one wing panel that had no wash-out and the other one did. I was not able to use heat and twist methods to make both panels symmetrical, The carbon fibre leading edge and main spar prevented twisting with heat. I didn't notice the lack of wash out in the right wing panel until I had permanently beefed up landing gear fairing mounting structure and installed missing under wing dummy wire rigging and tail bracing . I remounted right wing panel to reduce it's incidence to more closely equal the left panel . It worked and model flies reasonable well but is hard to land without damage to wheel pants, etc. Tip: Assemble wing panels to fuselage before assembly and inspect very carefully for any warps or unsymmetrical-ness in right vs left panels. Get a replacement panel from Maxford if possible if you find any even slight difference. Check the replacement panel for warps too!!
Last edited by E-Challenged; Jun 20, 2016 at 02:24 PM.


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