Hangar 9 Extra 330SC 60e ARF From Horizon Hobby- RCGroups.com Review

An attractive and nimble 65" aerobat designed by Seth Arnold and Hangar 9.

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Introduction

Hangar 9 Extra 330SC 60e ARF
Wingspan:65.5 in
Length:63.7 in
Wing Area:870 sq in
Weight:7.75 - 8.6 lb
Wing Loading:~21.19 oz/sq ft
Receiver:Spec detail
Servos:2x Spektrum 5060, 2x Spektrum 6220
Battery:E-Flite 4400mAh 6s
Motor:E-Flite Power 60
ESC:Castle Talon 90
Prop:APC 17x7E
Manufacturer:Hangar 9
Price:$299.99
Available from:HorizonHobby.com
PDF Manual:Click Here

The 60" class of aircraft designed around the 6s packs have become highly desired since they give you that big-plane feel with the portability and lower cost of a smaller plane. Hangar 9 got together with 3-time XFC champion Seth Arnold to design an airframe that excels in both precision and 3D aerobatics. The Extra 330SC 60e was the result. I recently got the opportunity to try one out, so let's take a look!

Kit Contents

  • Lightweight, laser-cut balsa and plywood construction
  • Carbon-fiber landing gear and wing tube
  • Two piece wing
  • Pre-hinged control surfaces
  • Ultra-cote covering, with matching fiberglass cowl and wheel pants
  • Large hatch with quick-release latch
  • Removable Side-Force Generators
  • Complete, high-quality hardware pack including ball-link connectors and fiberglass control horns
  • Full color decal sheet
  • 55 page photo-illustrated instruction manual

The kit arrived double boxed and very well packed inside. Each piece was individually wrapped and taped down to prevent any movement during shipping. I especially appreciated an extra layer of foam and tissue paper over the canopy to avoid damage and scratches. The fuselage was totally secure with custom boxes on either end, trapping the motor box and tail.

The covering was done very well with only a few small wrinkles visible, which is common with temperature variations. A little time with an iron and heat gun tightened everything up very nicely.

Needed to Complete

  • 6+ channel transmitter and receiver
  • 2 mini and 2 standard-size servos
  • 60-size brushless outrunner motor
  • Brushless speed control
  • 6S 22.2V Li-Po flight battery
  • Flight battery charger
  • Propeller
  • Spinner

Equipment Used for this Review (Provided by Horizon Hobby)

  • 2x Spektrum Mini Digital Metal Gear Servo (A5060)
  • 2x Spektrum Digital Metal Gear Servo (A6220)
  • E-flite Power 60 Brushless Outrunner Motor (EFLM4060B)
  • Castle Talon 90 ESC (CSE010009700)
  • Spektrum 6CH AS3X Receiver (SPMAR636)
  • E-flite 6s 4400mAh LiPo (EFLB44006S30)
  • Big Cut Ultimate 2 Blade 3" Spinner(DAV6630)
  • Prop Adapter, 8mm Shaft (EFLM1934)
  • 8 x 1.25mm Prop Adapter Kit (HAN99052)
  • APC 17x7e Propeller (APC17070E)
  • Super Strength Long Servo Arm Kit (DUB671)
  • 2x 6" Servo Extensions (SPMA3001)
  • 18" Servo Extension (SPMA3004)

Other accessories added

  • 25-28% Painted Pilot Helmet Red/White/Blue (HAN368)
  • ArmSafe Arming Kit, 10AWG (SUD0305)

Assembly

The 55 page manual covered nearly every step required to complete this beautiful airplane. Each step begins with a picture, icons show when to use glue or other tools, and a small description of what's to be done. Pay special attention to the icons during your build, as they'll help remind you where to use locktite. I'd recommend going through and highlighting those before starting. While you're free to do the major assemblies in any order you like, I'll proceed in the order it was printed. Let's get started!

Wings

As with nearly all ARFs, your first task is usually gluing the hinges of your control surfaces. The H9 Extra 330SC is no different. Drill wicking holes, use pins to keep the hinges centered and slide the hinges into one surface, then the other, apply CA. I noticed when unpacking the plane from the box that some of the hinges were nearly pushed all of the way into one side of the wing. It seems unlikely that one would arrive pushed all of the way in, but still something to watch for.

The wing servo installation was easy and typical of other ARF construction. I did find the ball links extremely hard to thread. I believe the issue was a combination of a tight hole in the ball-link and extremely fine threads on the provided control rods. I found the best solution was to chuck the control rod into your drill and hold the ball-link with pliers. Spin the drill semi-slowly as you push the ball-link onto the end with a little force. It took several revolutions, but the threads eventually got traction. You could also use a tap to cut the threads in the ball-link. Once assembled, they were very tight and difficult to turn for adjustment. A hex-wrench through the ball-links on each end will give you the torque needed to adjust the length.

Fuselage

The manual began the fuselage construction with the installation of the elevator and rudder servos. Don't forget to use a servo-keeper, string or heat shrink over the servo extension connection before installing the servo in the fuselage. The directions didn't mention cutting the hole in the covering for the elevator servo, but that's easily solved once you identify the correct side (LEFT), and find the pre-made hole in the frame. Once the servo is installed, I used a spare piece of balsa to trap the extension to the fuselage frame near the vent on the bottom to keep it from flopping around. After the rudder servo and receiver are mounted, it's time to move to the tail feathers.

Alignment and centering is one of the trickier and more crucial steps of any plane assembly. A skewed horizontal stab can add unwanted flight characteristics, which can take a precision & 3D plane like this from "Awesome!" to "It's OK". Use a string off the canopy latch to measure each corner and re-align as needed. Once it's perfect, use a marker on each side to mark the sweet spot. Also make sure to get behind the plane at its' level, and verify the horizontal alignment to the wings. I found my left side to be a little too high. Careful sanding of the bottom of the left side hole on the bottom half, with constant re-checks, fixed this issue. Once I was happy with the alignment both directions, glue was applied as noted in the manual and left to cure overnight.

While that was drying, I taped off the control horn areas on the rudder and elevator, verified the fit of the horns and glued them in.

Once all the previous assemblies were dry, I was able to finish the fuselage; including gluing the elevator and rudder hinges, connecting the elevator servo control arms, tail wheel and rudder pull-pull wires. I was pleased how well these sub-assemblies went together and exactly as the directions stated.

The final assembly before installing the power system was the landing gear and wheel pants. While this install was as easy as bolting a few things on, I found a few tips to make it even easier for you. My first tip is to check that the wheel pant sits flush before marking and drilling your 2 holes that secure it to the landing gear. I found mine wasn't flush due to the slot being slightly smaller than the nut on the axle. A careful sanding with my Dremel small sanding wheel easily fixed this. I only need to open the slot by 1/16" or less to make it fit flush. Once flush, I was ready to mark the 2 screw holes. The trick here is keeping the wheel pant at the right angle while marking the holes. I suggest using a block or something else the right height under the rear of the pant and some tape, or asking someone for a hand to hold the position while marking. Mine unfortunately came out a little off, but the holes were too close to be able to easily correct at this time. Wheel pants with pre-drilled or pre-marked holes would help make this assembly easier.

Power Package & Final Touches

With the receiver installed at the beginning of the fuselage assembly, all that's left is to mount the power package, cowl, prop and decals. Anyone familiar with ARF construction will fly through this part with ease. If using the same Power 60 and Talon 90 combo as I am, note that you'll want to replace the stock Power 60 bullets with the ones that come with the Talon ESC, which are slightly bigger.

Now that the motor is on, you can position your cowl for the 4 screws that hold it to the firewall. Once the 4 plywood tabs were marked on my tape, I taped 2 small thin washers on the back of the spinner to create the needed gap and the tightened the prop nut to hold it against the motor. A piece or two of tape from the spinner back-plate to the front of the cowl will hold it forward. Then you can place all of your attention on matching the trim scheme on the sides before secure those pieces of tape and drilling.

The final details for this build really put the finishing touches on the whole look of the Extra 330SC. I used windex under the decals to ensure no bubbles. I decided to order & install the same pilot figure they have in the manual. It stated to cut 3/4" off the bottom of the pilot to make it fit, but only 3/8" needed to be removed. Finally the Side Force Generators were bolted onto the wings, and the APC prop and aluminum spinner bolted on.

The CG tested with the battery a little forward of where I'd planned, approx 2.75" ahead of the wing tube. (After flying, I moved it back to about 2".) Surface rates and expo as the manual suggested were programmed into my DX18. Guess that means it's time to fly this baby!

Flying

The Extra 330SC is an excellent airframe that can mold to your flying style. Whether you enjoy sport/pattern aerobatics, extreme aerobatics (XA), or 3D style, a flick of your rates switch(es) transform this plane to anything you need. The Power 60 and 17x7 prop gives you power and speed with more to spare. I never had to go full-throttle, which means longer flight times if you're not doing pylon racing laps. Also please note I flew this without AS3X on, as I wanted to experience the planes' true flight characteristics.

Field Assembly

Sometimes, you get a beautiful plane and then dread taking it to the field because it takes too long to get it ready to fly. With the Extra 330SC, you can be ready to fly in just a few minutes. The only steps required for this plane is to slide the wing tube in, then both wing halves, thread on the nylon wing bolts, and finally connect the aileron servo wires to the receiver and secure them with servo keepers.

Takeoff and Landing

Gentle powering up led the Extra 330SC straight and lifted the tail quickly. I didn't recall needing much if any rudder to keep it straight on the runway. The Extra gently lifted off the ground before I got to half throttle. 4 clicks or so of up trim got it flying hands-off in no time. No other trims were needed, and an inverted 45 degree up-line showed I was slightly nose-heavy and could move the battery back on the next flight.

Landing the Extra 330SC was also painless and un-eventful. Keep a touch of power on until you're a foot or so off the runway and then settle it in for a perfect, smooth 3-point landing.

Sport Aerobatics

My first flight was all spent doing sport pattern maneuvers in low or mid dual-rates. The suggested aileron throws for low rates were a little quick in my opinion but manageable. Slow rolls, point rolls, loops and any other basic aerobatic in the book is done with ease and grace with this Extra 330SC. I noticed no undesired coupling with several knife-edge passes. Snaps and spins were very nice and predictable, and best with mid-rates. To really flatten out the spins, I had to flip to high-rates.

3D Aerobatics

As you may notice in the video, my 3D skills are still 'in training'. However, I really enjoyed flipping to high rates and seeing what it was capable of. Everyone loves the pop-top, and with the Extra 330SC I got at least 2 rotations and it flattened out very nicely. Hovers were achieved and held quite well, but get on the right aileron quick as the Power 60 will get it torque rolling before you know it! The Power 60 was able to pull me out of the hover with ease. Harriers both upright and inverted seemed slightly unstable, but I'd attribute that to the wind and my novice 3D skills. In the hands of anyone with 3D experience, I firmly believe the Extra 33SC will perform any and all 3D maneuvers with ease.

Flight Photo Gallery

Flight Video

RCGroups.com Review - Hangar 9 Extra 330SC 60E ARF (3 min 44 sec)

Conclusion

The Hangar 9 Extra 330SC is an excellent do-it-all airplane. The construction is light-weight but solid, with an attractive covering scheme. The recommended power system from E-flite and Castle Creations will give you loads of power, speed and reliability. The large flying surfaces allow you to really slow it down, and the Power 60 with 17x7 prop really perform well to get the Extra 330SC blazing around the pattern when you push that throttle up!

Low rates will give you a stable and precise plane for any and all sport aerobatics. Mid-rates will add some snappiness and pep to your flying, with great looking snaps, spins and tumbles. Then, unleash the beast and flip to high-rates for awesome pop-tops, rolling harriers and anything else you care to try.

I definitely look forward to putting more flights on the Extra 330SC!

Pluses

  • Wide flight performance envelope
  • Light & strong construction
  • Attractive covering scheme
  • Power 60 motor provides ample power & speed
  • Designed by XFC Champion Seth Arnold

Minuses

  • Tight ball-links / fine-threaded control rods
  • Wheel pant mounting

Thanks

Huge thanks to Horizon Hobby for providing the Extra 330SC for review. Also big thanks go to Chris Koharik for taking the pictures and video at the field.

Last edited by Matt Gunn; Apr 19, 2016 at 05:37 PM..
Thread Tools
Mar 30, 2016, 10:27 PM
spitfire thunders superior
tuck's Avatar
Nice right up Nik.
Thanks for sharing Hornetnz.
Mar 30, 2016, 10:42 PM
14s 180mah should be enough...
IFLYOS's Avatar
Nice review, Nik! Looks like a fun plane to fly
Latest blog entry: Intro..a few years to late!
Mar 31, 2016, 07:27 AM
If it's R/C, I LIKE IT!
Nikolei Zinsli's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks! Looking forward to taking it out again Monday and wringing it out.
Latest blog entry: 93" AJ Laser 230z
Mar 31, 2016, 10:07 AM
C.H.E.A.P.
MICKEL's Avatar
Nice review, did you happen to get an AUW? (not specs)
Mar 31, 2016, 12:48 PM
If it's R/C, I LIKE IT!
Nikolei Zinsli's Avatar
Thread OP
I didn't but can check that tonight. I had also meant to post the power meter readings.
Latest blog entry: 93" AJ Laser 230z
Mar 31, 2016, 12:51 PM
C.H.E.A.P.
MICKEL's Avatar
Cool! Thanks!
Mar 31, 2016, 01:31 PM
Registered User
AUW would be a great help. Thanks
Mar 31, 2016, 04:59 PM
If it's R/C, I LIKE IT!
Nikolei Zinsli's Avatar
Thread OP
AUW (including my add-ons of pilot and arm-safe) is 8.4 lb.

Wattmeter showing 83A and 1850W on a fresh pack.
Latest blog entry: 93" AJ Laser 230z
Mar 31, 2016, 05:49 PM
Registered User
Thank you sir.
Apr 22, 2016, 05:07 AM
Registered User
thanks
May 13, 2016, 09:25 PM
Registered User
rockyboy2's Avatar
well done nik, very nice review .
May 17, 2016, 05:23 AM
Never too old to learn
Just finished assembling mine. I did notice quite a bit of throw on the large ailerons. I'm not one to fly 3D so I'll only be using the low and high rates without the 3D throws.
One question though: Is there enough differential for axial rolls?

Tom
May 17, 2016, 06:42 PM
If it's R/C, I LIKE IT!
Nikolei Zinsli's Avatar
Thread OP
Tom,
I havent done any in-depth testing for aileron differential yet, but with that said I haven't noticed any tendencies for the rolls to be non-axial. If you notice any on yours, it should be easily fixed with some simple radio settings.
Latest blog entry: 93" AJ Laser 230z
May 19, 2016, 12:23 PM
Never too old to learn
Thanks Nik..I hope to maiden mine today or tomorrow.


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