Midwest Harbor Tug x2 - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Apr 14, 2016, 08:51 PM
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Don't know nuffin about tugs ,but I'm good at watchin .
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Apr 15, 2016, 12:47 PM
hangin' around
Garage Ape's Avatar

Help Needed !


I need some advice on this.
The plans call for the rudder shoe to be cut from wood and then be glued to the keel after installing the rudder. I want to make the shoe from brass and screw it to the keel so it can be removed for maintenance.
My dilemma is water proofing the female threaded area in the keel which is plywood.
I know I can tap the wood then use thin CA to strengthen the thread. Would that be sufficient if I used some sensor safe silicone during assembly?
Or would I be better served by drilling the holes oversize, filling them with JB Weld, then drilling & tapping that?
Or any other ideas?
Apr 16, 2016, 10:50 PM
Nickel Belter
ZZ56's Avatar
Instead of tapping the JB Weld directly, why not use it to attach small brass nuts into holes drilled in the keel? I was looking for brass screw-in inserts made for just this sort of thing, but apparently they don't make them small enough (guessing your keel is less than 5/16" thick.

Or you could leave the keel in place and make a rudder with a removeable shaft for maintenance. Use telescoping brass square or hex tube for the rudder blade and shaft and put some tube over it where it goes through the bearings. Just pull the shaft out of the rudder body and it will fall to the side.
Apr 16, 2016, 11:12 PM
Taking care of the pond.
MILLERTIME's Avatar
How about stainless steel t nuts 4-40?
Apr 17, 2016, 10:53 AM
hangin' around
Garage Ape's Avatar
Thanks for the input guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZ56
Instead of tapping the JB Weld directly, why not use it to attach small brass nuts into holes drilled in the keel? I was looking for brass screw-in inserts made for just this sort of thing, but apparently they don't make them small enough (guessing your keel is less than 5/16" thick.

Or you could leave the keel in place and make a rudder with a removeable shaft for maintenance. Use telescoping brass square or hex tube for the rudder blade and shaft and put some tube over it where it goes through the bearings. Just pull the shaft out of the rudder body and it will fall to the side.
The keel is only 1/4" wide, which does limit some choices. This along with some ideas from Tim B gives me some things to think about.
Apr 17, 2016, 05:22 PM
r/c ships and workboats
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garage Ape
I need some advice on this.
The plans call for the rudder shoe to be cut from wood and then be glued to the keel after installing the rudder. I want to make the shoe from brass and screw it to the keel so it can be removed for maintenance.
My dilemma is water proofing the female threaded area in the keel which is plywood.
I know I can tap the wood then use thin CA to strengthen the thread. Would that be sufficient if I used some sensor safe silicone during assembly?
Or would I be better served by drilling the holes oversize, filling them with JB Weld, then drilling & tapping that?
Or any other ideas?
Unless you don't have a grease tube to lube the shaft, you don't really need to make the shoe removable. I built a few of these with the oldest 30 years ago and never had to remove the shoe. Over size the hole for the rudder stock, insert another section of tubing so it doesn't bind and install. Use a good grease on the rudder shaft and maintenance is good to go. Just a simpler solution to sugest.
Apr 17, 2016, 05:39 PM
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Tim B.'s Avatar
Good call Keith !
Apr 17, 2016, 10:22 PM
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Tim B.'s Avatar
Good Call Bob !
Last edited by Tim B.; Aug 01, 2016 at 04:00 PM.
Apr 19, 2016, 12:03 PM
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Garage Ape's Avatar
The 2-56 threaded brass inserts will work in the 1/4" keel. I think that's the ticket.
Thanks!
Apr 20, 2016, 08:24 PM
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Garage Ape's Avatar
Now that the L&R keel halves have been laminated together, I gave them a sanding to even them up and smooth them out as the halves were not exactly identical to each other.
With that out of the way, I cleaned the stuffing tubes with alcohol, roughened them up with 60 grit paper and wiped them down with alcohol again.
I used 30 minute epoxy to glue the stuffing boxes between the main keel and stern keel. The keel pieces needed to be shimmed up 1/16" to center the stuffing box as it is 3/8" diameter and the keel is 1/4" thick.
I just used a bead of epoxy down the center of the keel as I wanted to keep dripping to a minimum. Filling in and re-enforcing the area will be done later.
Apr 20, 2016, 09:39 PM
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needabiggerboat's Avatar
Looks great! Very nice work!

Doug
Apr 21, 2016, 08:55 PM
hangin' around
Garage Ape's Avatar
Thanks Doug.
Sure seem like it has taken quite a while to just get this far.
Apr 21, 2016, 09:28 PM
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Tim B.'s Avatar
2 at a time must take a Little longer ~
Apr 24, 2016, 10:10 PM
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rblubaugh's Avatar
Just found your build, will be watching the rest as you continue.

Bob


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