Newbie - Gentle Lady Wing (Sheeting and T.E.) - RC Groups
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Aug 09, 2004, 09:18 AM
Registered User

Newbie - Gentle Lady Wing (Sheeting and T.E.)

Once again I am confused

So I start building the wing and go to line up the trailing edge(left inboard) notches for the ribs with the ribs on the plan and this is what I see:

If I line the rib notches up the trailing edge(left inboard) does not meet up with the with the trailing edge(left outboard).

Question is, should I line up the notches(and if so how do i account for the space between the inboard and outboard trailing edges?) or move the trailing edge to the right so that it is flush against the trailing edge(left outboard).

Next question is in regard to the sheeting. The manual says:
"Align notches of T.E. with those shown on the plan. Cut two pieces of bottom sheeting from 1/16" x 2-1/2" x 24" balsa. Then fit and trim one piece from 1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa. Assemble sheeting and glue to leading and trailing edges.

So from reading this I should cut a total of three pieces of balsa. Looking at the plan:

to me, that looks like six pieces of balsa. If someone could tell me which balsa to use and where(boxes 1-6), thatd be really helpful.

thanks a bunch

ps. i got new found respect for the wright brothers.
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Aug 09, 2004, 11:03 AM
Registered User
There is a correct "down " or flat side to TE stock. If you look at the end of it you will see one side is slanted and one is flat. Maybe in reversing it (if you had it upside down) the notches will allign properly. (i.e. R side would become left - is there a difference in the final length on either end of the TE stock?)

Haven't ever built a GL, but the center sheeting should go from TE to LE and you use whatever combo of 1/16" stock fills it. You can always pick up a sheet of 1/16" at the LHS if you run out.

Sierra Gold
Aug 09, 2004, 11:34 AM
Registered User

The ol' switcharoo

Thanks for the response sierra-gold.

I flipped the T.E. both ways, the way depicted above is the way with the closest match.

If I flip it the other way there is no way to line things up. With the notches lined up it comes out like 2 inches short on the inboard/outboard edge and like 2 inches too long on the inboard/center edge.

As for sheeting I dont get if the ribs lay on top of the sheeting or if you have six individual pieces of balsa which are flush against the ribs.

Thanks Again
Aug 09, 2004, 11:53 AM
Registered User
As I stated I haven't built a GL. But on most gliders the center joint is sheeted top and bottom and the center ribs are smaller to comp for the sheeting.

Normally the bottom sheeting goes on the plans and the ribs go on top of it. Usually the install of top sheeting is one of the last steps.

Your plans are depicting the top sheeting and the ribs are dashed because they are "hidden" under the top sheeting. They don't/can't show the bottom sheeting.

***** Your instructions do talk about top and bottom center sheeting? It would be possible to just sheet the top of a wing.

Sierra Gold
Last edited by sierra-gold; Aug 09, 2004 at 11:57 AM.
Aug 09, 2004, 12:05 PM
Registered User
There are a several of things you might do concerning the bad notched TE stock.

1. Complain to CG and await a new set.

2. Use them as they are and fill in the gap at the center with "spare" TE stock. Apply a piece of 1/32" plywood (3/4" x 4") to top and bottom of the TE. It will provide the strength needed and will help protect the TE from those pesky rubber bands used to hold the wing on.

3. Go to the LHS and buy two pieces of same size TE stock, mark the rib locations and use a "tool" of 2 hack saw blades taped together to cut the notches.

4. Use the existing stuff and mark the correct rib locations and cut new notches with the "tool" described above and consider the incorrect notches "lightening holes."

Sierra Gold
Last edited by sierra-gold; Aug 09, 2004 at 12:09 PM.
Aug 09, 2004, 12:50 PM
Registered User

Why O Why

If the ribs sit on top of the bottom sheeting, why dont i use use one big piece of bottom sheeting? Why does it say to cut three pieces?

Thanks a lot for your suggestions, I think I am going to fill in the gap with spare T.E. unless someone has an even better idea.

Is it normal for kits to be miscut?

Aug 09, 2004, 01:06 PM
Registered User
I just figured out your confusion... #1 & #2 in your photo is one piece cut off the 24" piece of 1/16" balsa. #3 & #4 and #5 & #6 are one piece.

No, usually the kits are fairly error free. But not always!

Sierra Gold
Aug 09, 2004, 02:13 PM
Registered User


alright things are starting to take shape in my head

Thanks a lot for your help!
Aug 11, 2004, 12:20 AM
Registered User

Still Confused

This still doesnt make sense. The manual clearly states i'll be using 3 pieces of balsa yet I've been told I am using 2(fron the picture of the sheeting above: 1 for boxes 1 and 2 and one for boxes 3-6).

Also I dont understand why Id be using a 3" piece of balsa because at its widest the sheeting is not even 2.5" so therefore I could use the 2.5" sheet.

I dont know if I'm reading too into this stuff and if I should just proceed with some common sense (which is sort of difficult to do seeing as how I have never even seen a RC plane so I have no idea what things are supposed to look like when I am done).

thanks in advance,
Aug 11, 2004, 02:00 AM
Registered User
I left out a critical word from my earlier post.


3&4 and 5&6 are each one piece also.

A total of 3 pieces... not 6.

Sierra Gold
Aug 11, 2004, 12:07 PM
Registered User

one last question, hopefully

Are the spars on top of the sheeting or is the sheeting cut to be flush against the spars? The manual makes it seem like they are on top (in both text and pictures) yet if they are on top, why dont you use one big piece of balsa for the sheeting?
Aug 11, 2004, 12:33 PM
Registered User
Normally the center sheeting is pieced in around the spars... flush with them. Thats why the ribs for the center are normally 1/16" recessed to allow the sheeting to fit flush.

Sierra Gold

******* note the grain orientation - runs parallel with the LE and TE. For strength it must run that way. If the grain ran with the ribs it would snap with little pressure.
Last edited by sierra-gold; Aug 11, 2004 at 12:37 PM.
Aug 11, 2004, 12:47 PM
Registered User
In looking at the photo of the small section of the plans once again I revise my thoughts.

It appears that the GL has two spars?? Forward and back.

Since the ribs and spars are shown as "dashed" in the plans that means to me that the top sheeting goes over both the spars and ribs. If there are bottom spars and the notch in the ribs for them is flush with the bottom of the rib, then the bottom sheeting goes over the bottom spars also.

That make sense?

As I stated in my first post, I never built a GL. Have seen many of them fly and I thought I remembered there was something slighlty unusual about the spar set up.

Sierra Gold

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