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Feb 28, 2016, 06:49 AM
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Build Log

Douglas DC-3/C-47 - HobbyKing 1600mm


Another DC-3/C-47 !!...???
As much as my Dynam DC-3 has turned out really great, I always saw the Hobbyking version as 'better'. Seeing it is a bit bigger, but also has Split Flaps, Retracts and various other 'better' things.
But when the KIT version was on special for AUD$99 with Free Shipping, well that made it a very good buy!

When I got the plane and looked over what it had and was, I was very surprised at all the great design methods, and all the detail it has! WAY more than the Dynam... it makes the Dynam look like the "2009 toy model aeroplane" that it is. Chalk and Cheese!

I had got the Dynam DC-3 on special also, I think for $163 for the PNF with shipping.
I bought all the HK DC-3 extra parts (motors, retracts, servos, etc) for approx $100. This makes the HK DC-3 close to $200 all up. So for the $37 more I will end up with a FAR, far, better DC-3!!!

But if you paid the normal "full" prices, then they are more like $240 and $435 with shipping. So then you are paying quite a lot more, for the lot more the HK DC-3 has. I would never pay that much for it!!

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Feb 28, 2016, 06:50 AM
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First look


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Feb 28, 2016, 06:55 AM
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Motor mount mods


I bought the Turnigy Aerodrive D2830/11 1000kv motor(s) for the DC-3. Seeing these are a different motor than the stock ones, there are a few mods you need for it.

The X-Mount bolt pattern/spacing is different.
I clamped the Aerodrive X-Mount to the firewall piece and then used it as a template to drill 3mm holes.
The stock mount is held in by Screws, but I wanted to use Captive nuts and Bolts... for long term lifespan and assured motor fixation! So then the 3mm holes are drilled out to 4mm after you remove the X-Mount/template.

I always pull the Captive nuts into the wood and then Epoxy them on as well. This is to really assure they will work perfectly fine long term!

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Feb 28, 2016, 07:00 AM
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Motor Mount spacer


Even though the stock motors are a 2215 motor size, which supposedly means a 15mm Bell length, the Aerodrive 2830 (30mm Bell length) is too SHORT!! Huh? It is a 30mm Bell, not a 15mm one....
But anyway, once you fit the supplied DC-3 shaft adaptor onto the motor, the length is about 10mm too short for the propellers to clear the cowling then. So you need to add some spacer to gain the 10mm (approx) more forwards motor position.

The supplied stock shaft adaptors are also 3mm shaft size, but the Aerodrive is a 1/8th inch shaft size, which is 3.17mm.... and thus they don't fit. So I drilled the shaft adaptors out to 1/8th inch. I drilled down into them just enough so that they can push right down the motor shaft until they hit the front of the Bell.

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Feb 28, 2016, 07:08 AM
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Retract Mounts


The HK DC-3 uses the common "Medium" size retracts. They mount them in a bit of an interesting way.
They have a heavy duty base plate with captive nuts in it, but then they build up a 'block'... tower.... to use the mounting plate that you would have on the 'bottom' of the retract. Note, you can fit a mount plate to the 'top' of the retract instead of the bottom.

In the kit, they build up this block using multiple 3mm thick plywood pieces on on the other. But they only gave enough pieces to build to blocks (one per wing) up to 2/3 the height required! Huh??

Oh, they also give you ZERO information on building up the KIT !!! So you have to work everything out yourself!

So, seeing I was missing pieces.. it seems... I decided there was no reason not to mount the Retracts from the 'top' plate method.
The one small cost of doing that is that you then do not have a flush finish result on the engine nacelle underside. The 'bottom' plate method means that plate is the bottom of the engine nacelle.
When I looked at that issue, I decided my way is still better, because the flat plate that the 'bottom' mount method would create is not a curve like the nacelle anyway. But doing it the 'top' mount plate way means you can MAKE a curved fill in piece for that nacelle underside anyway. Thus it will be a better looking finish.

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