Hubsan H502E & H502S, the first brushed mini with GPS and FPV - Page 126 - RC Groups
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Jun 11, 2018, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimp Man
Good point. (Assuming 7.4v drives the motors).
It does! The battery plus connects to the motor FET drain and the FET source connects to battery Negative. That's why a quad loses punch when near the end of the battery - the voltage has dropped off. The gate of the FET is driven by the FC CPU.
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Jun 11, 2018, 10:46 PM
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John Luciano's Avatar
Yes. I am impressed with the video of the 502C. Really was happy. Only not happy with the use once and throw away battery. So far I can only fly once. Then the battery refuses to charge cell 2. ( cell one 4.24. Cell # two 3.27 I have 4 chargers. I tried all of them I am now making a cord so I can try to charge the 502C battery on my hobby charger.
Jun 12, 2018, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Luciano
Yes. I am impressed with the video of the 502C. Really was happy. Only not happy with the use once and throw away battery. So far I can only fly once. Then the battery refuses to charge cell 2. ( cell one 4.24. Cell # two 3.27 I have 4 chargers. I tried all of them I am now making a cord so I can try to charge the 502C battery on my hobby charger.
It is not impossible that you got 4 bad chargers! I ordered some 3.7V lipo charger PCBs from Banggood that were supposed to charge at 1A as they came and other lesser rates with a resistor change. EVERYONE one of the 10 units I got were defective, would charge at about 400mah no matter the resistor value (even removed completely). That's why I keep telling you to split the cable so you can find out whats going on. This is one of the biggest things I hate about proprietary batteries. I would believe bad chargers before I'd believe bad batteries!
Jun 12, 2018, 09:00 PM
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John Luciano's Avatar
I removed the USB compleatly. I added a balance connector and a JST. I use a low voltage tester to check. After a flight I have 7.5 volts. I charge and nothing .. I split the cable way before you suggested it .... I show 1 cell is 4.23 the other 3.14 . I have 6 chargers ( came with different quads over 8 mo time) I tried 5 different plug adapters . Your not having any problem with the battery? I even tried to charge with my hobby charger. One cell gets to 4.3 and it shuts off the other cell is still at 3.22 JUNK ;4 quads 6. Batteries 4 chargers
all dead.. This tells me that 80% of what Hubsan is selling ( chargers ) are bad. Or I am just lucky and got the only bad ones. I love these quads ( 502T , 502C and 507A ) I am now going to rip them open and hack the plug s I can run a real batter the way HUBSAN should have done in the beginning.
Last edited by John Luciano; Jun 12, 2018 at 09:18 PM.
Jun 13, 2018, 09:33 AM
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John Luciano's Avatar
Just checked out installing the 502e battery into the 502T. If I remove the top locking tab and I open the hole up 1/8 or 1/4" on a side. Then remove all the side walls on the battery compartment. I may have to put syrofoam on the sides to keep the battery secure or I can maybe just heat it up and bend it back a bit . Make the JST CONNECTOR wire long enough so I can plug in the battery out of the Quad and then shove it in front . Since the 502e battery is about 3/4 of an inch shorter , plenty of room for the connector and wire & not much will stick out the back. I'll let you guys know. It will be a 15 min flyer with a rechargeable dependable battery. The way it should have been made,
Last edited by John Luciano; Jun 13, 2018 at 09:40 AM.
Jun 13, 2018, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ham2405
It is not impossible that you got 4 bad chargers! I ordered some 3.7V lipo charger PCBs from Banggood that were supposed to charge at 1A as they came and other lesser rates with a resistor change. EVERYONE one of the 10 units I got were defective, would charge at about 400mah no matter the resistor value (even removed completely). That's why I keep telling you to split the cable so you can find out whats going on. This is one of the biggest things I hate about proprietary batteries. I would believe bad chargers before I'd believe bad batteries!
I can confirm about the chargers. Unfortunately I can't do much about the design...the contact points are an issue that I'm going to be reporting again. The chargers they know about and I've followed up with a friend in R&D. Hopefully it'll be changed.
Jun 13, 2018, 05:07 PM
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Too late for me. I fried 3 more. I gave up. I gutted the quads and now can install the 1300mAh Hubsan transmitter battery in my 502T . Once the charger screws up the batter it can not be fixed. It is trashed. I get one flight on a battery. I have 4 or 5 chargers and none can charge a battery.
I have a drawer full of the batteries.
Jun 13, 2018, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Luciano
I removed the USB compleatly. I added a balance connector and a JST. I use a low voltage tester to check. After a flight I have 7.5 volts. I charge and nothing .. I split the cable way before you suggested it .... I show 1 cell is 4.23 the other 3.14 . I have 6 chargers ( came with different quads over 8 mo time) I tried 5 different plug adapters . Your not having any problem with the battery? I even tried to charge with my hobby charger. One cell gets to 4.3 and it shuts off the other cell is still at 3.22 JUNK ;4 quads 6. Batteries 4 chargers
all dead.. This tells me that 80% of what Hubsan is selling ( chargers ) are bad. Or I am just lucky and got the only bad ones. I love these quads ( 502T , 502C and 507A ) I am now going to rip them open and hack the plug s I can run a real batter the way HUBSAN should have done in the beginning.
I guess I'll have to say you got bad luck. I have charged (with Hubsan charger and my B6) and flown 3 of my 6 batteries. I did have a strange one today though. I shoved #1 into my 502T to fly and got about 30 seconds before it self-landed. I thought I had charged it. When I put a voltmeter on it, I was shocked to see 0V across the outer terminals! WTH. When I measured negative to center, I got a reading of -3.3V! WTH again. I got 3.6V from center to positive. I connected it to the B6 and it said nope, not charging this battery! I then plugged it into a Hubsan charger and saw from my USB volts/amps monitor that it was charging. After a couple of minutes, I plugged it back into the B6 which then charged it without any other problems!

Are you aware that the 507A batteries are LiHV, not regular lipo? I assume that if a LiHV is put on a lipo charger, it just won't get a full charge. If you plug a lipo into a LiHV charger, it is going to be overcharged and probably damaged.

I'd love to play with one of your bad batteries to see what I might discover, but it is probably not worth the $$ to send it.
Jun 14, 2018, 03:42 AM
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John Luciano's Avatar
Fi get all kinds of readings. I get total dead. Then I try to charge it and I get 5.8 volts. Then next Tim I gat connection break. I can try charging on a different setting .i can send one . If I send in a bubble envelope won't be bad. PM me an address
Jun 14, 2018, 08:20 PM
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Fixed broken one


Hey, John, I'm starting to do like you! I bid on a H502S that had 'bad right front motor won't spin' from some company that was apparently clearing out 501s and 502s damaged quads. I actually bid for the controller to use with my H501A. So for $30 shipped, I got the blown quad, controller, battery, props and screws. Controller work fine, so I'm happy. Someone did a number on the quad! The right front motor was frozen and the right rear felt like it had sand in it. I opened it up, pulled both motors and pried them open. Wow, front motor had one brush welded to the commutator and the other just had fried brushes. I put an ohmmeter on the front FET and sure enough it was shorted. The back one seemed OK. With the bad motors out, I powered it up. Looks like everything else is good - compass calibrated, GPS got 7 sats in side, it armed and the left motors spun up. With a 'nothing ventured - nothing gained' attitude, I went after the front FET with my soldering iron and razor knife. Pleasant surprise when I got it off without damaging the PCB! I ordered some FETs and motors on Ebay so maybe I'll have a spare 502S in a month.

I am having to modify the controller because it was so old it did not have the JST connector and the battery box had the cell divider wall.

P.S. PM sent
Jun 14, 2018, 10:13 PM
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John Luciano's Avatar
If you get a chance to bid on a 502T or 502C go for it. High bid is usually about $30. Then you can gut it ( remove the battery box ,widen the battery opening ,and remove the top flap.) Solder a balance plug and you got another 502E . In stock form they are a POS . After the battery mod they are great. I got a T and a C $27 for one and $30 for the other . Worth it just for parts . I got to go look at that AH X16 board with the non working motor socket. Talk later if I find the burned FET .
Jun 17, 2018, 09:32 PM
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I have finally received my h502s and I'm happy though I haven't tested it

Two questions. Are there any non proprietary battery batteries that give better flight time


The controllers battery compartment seems different from h502c. What are the standard batteries and if I intend to use lipo batteries what is best once and does it require any modification?

Thanks in advance
Jun 18, 2018, 04:12 AM
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John Luciano's Avatar
The battery that comes with the S is just fine. The battery is not priority . If you can another battery that fit you can use it. The quads in question here have the priority battery 502T and 502C. Also a family member the 507A . The 502s and 502e with stock battery give a good flight time of around 10 min.
Jun 18, 2018, 09:29 AM
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Pixelpeter's Avatar
You can get the H502S over at Banggood for under 100 ... 91 to be precise.

It's on sale (about 11hrs to go right now): https://www.banggood.com/Hubsan-X4-H...r_warehouse=CN
Jun 20, 2018, 09:48 PM
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Does any standard lipo charger work for charging the batteries , yes I know there is the debate about balanced chargers and all that bit I am talking in general?

Thanks


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