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Dec 30, 2015, 03:21 PM
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Hussle's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoll53
Of course the pod can help protect the flaps from a ground strike when landing.
Thinking of protecting servos, I was going to try a top-drive setup for the flaps, but as the ailerons will be top hinged, such a setup may not work. How much deflection would the ailerons need? If it's low enough, top drive may still be possible.

Also, at what stage should I be adding servo extension wires? Just cut through the skin afterwards?

Hussle
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Dec 30, 2015, 08:04 PM
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Knoll53's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hussle
Thinking of protecting servos, I was going to try a top-drive setup for the flaps, but as the ailerons will be top hinged, such a setup may not work. How much deflection would the ailerons need? If it's low enough, top drive may still be possible.
It is possible to religiously retract the flaps just before touch down. If you have the "proper" elevon mixing, the plane will slow down and keep flying for the last few feet (want to see a video?)
Flaps are bottom hinged and I'd suggest that elevons be bottom hinged as well. That way, you have the smoothest surface on the bottom and it is the bottom that is most likely to suffer a separation bubble and stall due to hard nose up control input. This requires a rather large gap on top to achieve a 20 degree deflection. This deflection is only used for extreme maneuvers. You can fly with 5 degrees if the CG is aft enough.

Quote:
Also, at what stage should I be adding servo extension wires? Just cut through the skin afterwards?
Hussle
No. Do not cut the skin. It is an important structural element. Install wires before the skins. I like to put a fiberglass tube in the wing so that the entire wire can be removed if needed, but there are easier methods. Some guys will just burn a small slot in the foam and stuff the wire into it, then cover with light weight filler.

BTW, you've got a nice build log going here so be sure to show us what method you used for the servo wires.

Kent
Dec 30, 2015, 10:10 PM
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Hussle's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoll53
Flaps are bottom hinged and I'd suggest that elevons be bottom hinged as well. That way, you have the smoothest surface on the bottom and it is the bottom that is most likely to suffer a separation bubble and stall due to hard nose up control input. This requires a rather large gap on top to achieve a 20 degree deflection. This deflection is only used for extreme maneuvers. You can fly with 5 degrees if the CG is aft enough.
Thanks Kent, I may go for top-drive on all surfaces then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoll53
No. Do not cut the skin. It is an important structural element. Install wires before the skins. I like to put a fiberglass tube in the wing so that the entire wire can be removed if needed, but there are easier methods. Some guys will just burn a small slot in the foam and stuff the wire into it, then cover with light weight filler.
Thanks, that makes sense and I will probably end up cutting a slit for it.

Hussle
Dec 31, 2015, 01:19 AM
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The other servos are out of stock, think I'll use these ones: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...sec_17_4g.html
Dec 31, 2015, 01:18 PM
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Hussle's Avatar
Side 1 out of the wax paper. Lots of shiny carbon

Hussle
Dec 31, 2015, 02:14 PM
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Once you bang out the fins and get your flight pack together, you can strap everything on the wing and do a test balance. You may very well be able to balance out without any nose lead and just select the right size battery to balance.
Dec 31, 2015, 04:11 PM
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Side 2 wetted out and pressed, should be cured enough to handle by this evening.
Jan 01, 2016, 03:16 PM
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Hussle's Avatar
Okay, it's big, strong, and beautiful.
I'm very happy with how it's turned out. I can pick it up by halfway along one wing.

Hussle
Jan 01, 2016, 04:03 PM
You know nothing....
Stuart A's Avatar
Very nice!
Jan 01, 2016, 08:56 PM
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I don't mean to alarm you, but this just may fly pretty well. There is a lot of wing there.

From the looks of the steep roofs and the chimney pots, I'd think that you are posting from the UK, not Sydney.
Jan 01, 2016, 10:35 PM
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Hussle's Avatar
It's Sydney, but the house behind is a bit of a monstrosity.

Hussle
Jan 02, 2016, 03:54 PM
You know nothing....
Stuart A's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knoll53

From the looks of the steep roofs and the chimney pots, I'd think that you are posting from the UK, not Sydney.
That was my first impression.Dull suburban architecture.Then I spotted the shorts-and the patch of blue sky
Jan 04, 2016, 05:05 AM
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Hussle's Avatar
Not much work over the past few days, just a rear alignment pin added and the balsa planked together for sheeting the wings. Waiting on some more epoxy and some decent weather to start sheeting.

Hussle
Jan 04, 2016, 10:33 AM
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I like the carbon tow over the joiner box. This is going to serve you well.


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