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Jul 22, 2019, 08:48 PM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
Following up on the hatch, I glued in a piece of 3 mm foam so the hatch better matches the bottom of the fuselage. I used a piece the size of the hatch then weighed it down to get a good bond. Then I cut out to the side revealing the opening.

On to the latch; like a lot of people I used a servo arm. I cut out an opening in the main landing gear to allow the servo arm to be retracted. Screw is good and snug in the ply landing gear base.
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Jul 22, 2019, 09:14 PM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar

Cutting Packing Tape


I came up with a cheap or free idea for getting good, straight cuts on packing tape. All you need is an 8x10 glass picture frame and a chart grid. I got tired of ragged, crooked tape. I'll use this for the hatch hinge in the previous post.

I created the grid in Microsoft Word; it is available as a background. For those of you who don't have Word, OpenOffice.org or other drawing programs likely have this. If you have some charting paper laying around that should work too. I cut the grid to fit into the frame and inserted it like a picture.

Once the grid is in the frame, grab your glass cleaner and clean the glass, then lay down the tape. If you wish to double up the tape lay another layer down. Then get a short straight edge that fits into the frame and line up the ruler with the grid lines to get the size you need and cut. Peel away the excess, a razor blade scraper works well for this. You can also use the razor blade to get the tape with the desired cut off. Keep the glass clean with alcohol, don't leave tape on the glass or cleanup will be more difficult.
Jul 23, 2019, 04:47 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
solentlife's Avatar
I have a pair of small Dressmakers scissors. I just make sure I do not pull the tape too hard to distort when cutting.

To get it to be flat and straight .. I use a length of skewer stuck across end ... once cut - I apply tape and then cut away the extra that has the skewer.
Jul 23, 2019, 05:47 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
solentlife's Avatar
Its not a common format - but there are times dual battery installations are called for. My Concorde and TU144 are such.

Typically I have allowed model to have split batterys - one to each motor. But of course in event of one battery dieing before other - it can be 'interesting'.

Solution ? Bigger single battery ? Not good idea as the models above have a central spine to add strength. So each battery sits either side.
Four XT60 plugs are needed ....

Solder short lengths to each pin of two male and two female XT60's .... twist together pairs so that you have two males, two females basically connected as one each ... now solder the twisted tails to other pair keeping regard to polarity .....

Now I have a dual XT60 set that can have 1 or 2 batterys ... or other end 1 or 2 motors ... with all actually connected together ...

Jul 23, 2019, 03:20 PM
Danish? Don't U eat that??
DKChris's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruff1
I came up with a cheap or free idea for getting good, straight cuts on packing tape. All you need is an 8x10 glass picture frame and a chart grid. I got tired of ragged, crooked tape. I'll use this for the hatch hinge in the previous post.

I created the grid in Microsoft Word; it is available as a background. For those of you who don't have Word, OpenOffice.org or other drawing programs likely have this. If you have some charting paper laying around that should work too. I cut the grid to fit into the frame and inserted it like a picture.

Once the grid is in the frame, grab your glass cleaner and clean the glass, then lay down the tape. If you wish to double up the tape lay another layer down. Then get a short straight edge that fits into the frame and line up the ruler with the grid lines to get the size you need and cut. Peel away the excess, a razor blade scraper works well for this. You can also use the razor blade to get the tape with the desired cut off. Keep the glass clean with alcohol, don't leave tape on the glass or cleanup will be more difficult.
......or if you like metric, simply a millimeter grid graph sheet......or even just the standard 5mm squared paper I know most schoolkids over here know extensively from math class.
Last edited by DKChris; Jul 23, 2019 at 03:30 PM.
Jul 23, 2019, 07:32 PM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
The hatch is completed.

Used a UniBit to drill a couple of vent holes, I'll start with two.
Jul 26, 2019, 10:01 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
solentlife's Avatar
At some time we print and stick together those plans ....

I used to try and complete the whole plan as one ... but prints never aligned on every part ... so I started to cut out each part to join individually. This cured the slight misalignment bits.

Once I'd got that sorted - I then looked at my system of tracing kit parts ... ie - my Hobby King Mig 29 G&G is traced onto 3mm foam so if I ever need to create replacements ...

That put me onto using cheapest plain ceiling tiles ... now most households have a pack or two of foam ceiling tiles laying around in the garage / store ...

Joined and using the plain backs - they make excellent templates. You do not waste precious model foam or depron ... better than paper templates ... thick enough to hold shape ... easily reproduced and CHEAP !!
Trace out the paper plan templates onto the foam ... cut and use those ...
Aug 13, 2019, 06:30 PM
Out Standing In The Field
RexGalore's Avatar
Fellow Cheapskates (and Tightwads),

It's been a couple of weeks with no postings here, but good news! The drought is over! I originated (or re-originated) a time saving idea.

I'm assembling a Tower Hellcat receiver ready plane, and had to remove the motor and ESC. You know how unusual it is to actually have matching color coded motor & ESC leads? So you have a chance that you will plug the leads in correctly and the motor will spin the right way? I'd previously gotten pieces of blue masking tape and written matching numbers on each half of the leads, but it's messy and time consuming.

So, the easy solution is all those twist ties you (or your SO) have squirreled away in your kitchen drawer (and don't say you don't save them - if you're subscribed to this thread you've probably got a hundred of the little buggers). They come in all colors, and I had no problem coming up with red and yellow ties to wrap around the corresponding black ESC wires. Even if there was NO color coding on ANY of the wires, it would be just easy to get 2 sets of different color pairs to insure that you'd get correct connections.

I await your most appropriate approbation & congratulations.
Aug 13, 2019, 08:38 PM
I Look, Listen, and Learn
Timbo383's Avatar
Thread OP
Yeah, but what do you do about the black one....oh , wait....... Good cheap idea. I have a couple of rolls of colored red and yellow tape that I have used for that same purpose ( yeah, not cheap or free, so you have me beat ) I just snip off a small piece and tape it around the wire leads.
Aug 14, 2019, 12:26 AM
looking up, down under
scruffy1's Avatar
given reversing any pair of wires will reverse the rotation, i take a 50% chance i'll get it right and replug if i didn't

that's cheap and easy

plan b is to use a ring of appropriately coloured heatshrink over the generic black plugs
Aug 14, 2019, 12:33 AM
Danish? Don't U eat that??
DKChris's Avatar
Also great for marking when you have multiple servo extensions, logically

I tend to borrow the kids' or wife's paint markers. It's a little bit neater than the ties, but only free if you manage to get away with it undetected......
I understand you can get a similar result with brightly colored nail polish........repercussions if caught are similar or worse though........even if you go buy them yourself!!
Last edited by DKChris; Aug 14, 2019 at 12:43 AM.
Aug 14, 2019, 04:52 AM
I Look, Listen, and Learn
Timbo383's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by scruffy1
given reversing any pair of wires will reverse the rotation, i take a 50% chance i'll get it right and replug if i didn't
While that is so true, sometimes the repluging location is so tight and difficult to get to I'd rather get it right the first time.
Aug 14, 2019, 06:38 AM
I Look, Listen, and Learn
Timbo383's Avatar
Thread OP
BTW, a simple solution to reversing the wires in a difficult area is just to use a reverse rotation prop if you have one. Quad copter props come in packs of four with two counter rotation props.
Aug 14, 2019, 06:53 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
solentlife's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timbo383
BTW, a simple solution to reversing the wires in a difficult area is just to use a reverse rotation prop if you have one. Quad copter props come in packs of four with two counter rotation props.
Agreed - BUT .... don't forget thrust angles.

Its fine if the model has zero down / zero side ... then you can use CW or CCW props ... you will just find a click or two of trim will compensate - hopefully !

But if you have right and down as most models have for a CCW prop - then fitting a CW prop is not a good idea ....

Recently I maidened a profile Mig 15. The prop, CCW, caused too much torque and she rolled into ground to the left ... not having a spare prop - pal at the site gave me a prop, CW, and I forgot this simple matter. She torqued to the right into the ground !!
Aug 14, 2019, 09:17 AM
I Look, Listen, and Learn
Timbo383's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by solentlife
Agreed - BUT .... don't forget thrust angles.
Thanks for that info, I never even considered that. Fortunately most of my planes are slowish flyers where I don't usually add any angle to the motor so I've been lucky so far.
Last edited by Timbo383; Aug 14, 2019 at 09:24 AM.


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