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Jul 08, 2019, 07:34 AM
Danish? Don't U eat that??
DKChris's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulB
So are you saying rubbing alcohol is OK but not methylated ???
Bit confused....

Paul
I may have overseen a language issue....
The stuff I have been referring to as "rubbing alcohol" is isopropyl alcohol, quite pure (>99%). I may have wrongfully been of the conviction that this is the only substance the english/US term "rubbing alcohol" covered.
When checking wikipedia I can now see that this is only partly correct, as this term also covers a number of other alcohol based substances, including denatured ethanol. Very sorry for the mixup!


FWIW I'm pretty sure the 70% version of isopropyl alcohol (for sterilizing hands), which is diluted with only water, also will work ok.
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Jul 10, 2019, 01:15 AM
Mark Harrison
Quote:
Originally Posted by DKChris
Careful with the alcohol if using hot glue for the assembly, though. Alcohol will release the grip of the hot glue and make it brittle (as most of us already know). Clean by rubbing with a lightly wetted rag or paper towel, kept well away from any hot glue, don't try to pour on even a few drops, you'll never know where it goes.




I've actually used dual lock with success for 2200-2500mAh 3s packs in depron planes, but what i do is I glue in a wood surface at least half the size of the battery width/length to transfer force better(Popsicle sticks, liteply etc.), and then only use a small piece (roll width by 3/4 inch or so) of Dual Lock to lock the battery down at one end, preferably the rear. The other end is then held in place sideways and in up/down direction by the fuse structure around it. No issues to date. That 3M sticky pad stuff on the Dual Lock sure isn't coming off anything it's stuck to, that's for sure.
Not that i would regard Dual lock as cheap at all. But at least this way a roll does go a long way, though.
That sounds like an excellent way of doing it. A 2 or 3 inch strip was definitely overkill!
Jul 11, 2019, 08:52 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by TooJung2Die
A trick I learned at work for attaching anything self-adhesive (like Velcro) to a porous surface. Spray some aerosol adhesive like 3M on the surface first and let it dry. It will stick like death. Good luck trying to peel it back off without damaging something.
That has been my experience too. Spraying a light coating of 3M 77 or Duro #01088 aerosol adhesive on the bare foam and then spreading Gorilla glue (quick or regular) will glue sheets of foam together and it will never come apart.

When covering the foam with colored package sealing tape, apply the tape to foam coated with either of those aerosol adhesives and the tape to foam foam bond is almost miraculously stronger. The Duro 01088 is only about 1/3rd of the cost of the 3M 77 and it works just as good as the 3M stuff.

This is good example of the use of the glues and tape and it is the best KF wing ever in my opinion!

Mini-HowTo ** Blu Baby 33" KFm3P Polyhedral Tip Wing Build ** - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1474665

Jack
Jul 11, 2019, 09:05 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
solentlife's Avatar
A good laminating adhesive for foam sheets is actually Spray Foam Backed Carpet Glue. Carpet guys use it for tacking down carpets in the home ... on stairs etc.

Take care to select the safe variety ......... but its cheap, it works ...
Jul 11, 2019, 04:05 PM
Danish? Don't U eat that??
DKChris's Avatar
Spray contact adhesive has been the standard goto solution for applying packing tape to EPP (which hardly any tape other than the duck/gaffers kind will stick well to without) slope combat wings ever since they came on the market, i.e. for more than 2 decades......Yup, that stuff sure helps increase the bond of anything self adhesive.
Jul 14, 2019, 08:36 AM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
I used some plastic from a Maxwell House coffee container for a battery hatch. Made the rough cuts with some bypass pruners and that got it close. Then used some clamps, metal straight edge and a utility knife to make the final cuts. A bit larger than the placement location in the fuselage for a tight fit.

I'll put in some venting holes in the rear once I determine best position. Plenty of opening for incoming air.

I've been recently watching some restoration videos on YouTube, this has gotten me motivated to pay closer attention to detail.
Jul 15, 2019, 07:48 AM
Too old to rock-n-roll...
TooJung2Die's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruff1
I used some plastic from a Maxwell House coffee container for a battery hatch. Made the rough cuts with some bypass pruners and that got it close. Then used some clamps, metal straight edge and a utility knife to make the final cuts. A bit larger than the placement location in the fuselage for a tight fit.
Can you show a picture of the hatch installed?
Jul 15, 2019, 05:33 PM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
Give me a bit to finish it up. I just did a fitment test.
Jul 15, 2019, 05:54 PM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
Here you go, just dry-fitted for now. I'll probably use packing tape under the landing gear to the hatch rear and a servo arm in the front. Still need to determine location and number of outlet vent holes. I will need to fill in underneath the hatch to get it flush with the bottom. Air inlet is in front of the nose gear.
Jul 15, 2019, 09:35 PM
Too old to rock-n-roll...
TooJung2Die's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruff1
I've been recently watching some restoration videos on YouTube, this has gotten me motivated to pay closer attention to detail.
...
Here you go, just dry-fitted for now.
Fits nice and looks good. It's good when you can progress from "how do I do this?" to "how do I do this best?"
Jul 15, 2019, 09:48 PM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
Thanks. I may place the tape on the front and servo arms in back. There is ply under the main gear and would allow the servo arm(s) to be secured nicely. Would need to cut away a bit of the main gear but shouldn't be a problem. Easy enough to replace tape as it ages, I have plenty of blue packing tape!

I have foam glued up under the hatch to bring it to the level of the bottom of the fuselage, I'll post a picture of that tomorrow.
Jul 16, 2019, 04:08 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
solentlife's Avatar
Have packets of loose servo arms ? Like me - you probably have lots that don't fit present servos in use ?

They make excellent tail wheel support brackets ... the spline hole is good for tail wheel piano wire ... the control rod holes for screws to mount.

They also can be used as hatch latches ... here's my Cub battery hatch ..



You can even extend existing servo arms with spare ones for 3D machines.

You can use them to support long control rods to avoid flexing ...

Even use them as control horns by angling into surface when gluing.
Jul 17, 2019, 01:06 AM
Mark Harrison
Quote:
Originally Posted by solentlife
Have packets of loose servo arms ? Like me - you probably have lots that don't fit present servos in use ?

They make excellent tail wheel support brackets ... the spline hole is good for tail wheel piano wire ... the control rod holes for screws to mount.

They also can be used as hatch latches ... here's my Cub battery hatch ..



You can even extend existing servo arms with spare ones for 3D machines.

You can use them to support long control rods to avoid flexing ...

Even use them as control horns by angling into surface when gluing.
OMG I have tons of those things sitting around, this is brilliant!


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