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Mar 11, 2019, 11:39 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
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I watched loads of videos showing 'hotmoulding' pop bottles over plaster casts .... I even have plaster and release spray ready ..... and items I should have copied before 'flight' and various items ready for it ....

But for some reason never did !

My HK Lancaster plastics are in need of replacement and luckily I have a new set ...... just got to decide to go for it !
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Mar 11, 2019, 01:02 PM
Danish? Don't U eat that??
DKChris's Avatar
Found a slightly different "dry" approach to making the silicone mold compound that might be more appealing to some (?), as it does away with the soapy water and in stead uses starch to make the material handleable, but apparently adds a bit of plant oil to keep the mold flexible. I'd figure both methods could work ok; the wet version may be more heat and chemically resistant though. But for Plaster casting that shouldn't be an issue.

The attached vids goes through most of the process of making a 2 part mold and then testing its quality with some heat settable clay. Seems quite promising.

DIY two part silicone mould using home made silicone mould putty (15 min 16 sec)

Taking a mould from the DIY silicone mould made in part (1)😊 (6 min 29 sec)


But as far as I can tell there's actually a ton of youtube clips going over this process and numerous variants of it.
Last edited by DKChris; Mar 11, 2019 at 01:31 PM.
Mar 14, 2019, 08:19 AM
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PaulB's Avatar
Not free but it feels like I stole it.....

Long story short, I like my Dremel glue gun but it is set for low temp and I use it on foam with the 105 degree (low temp) sticks but they are 7 mm and quite expensive/ hard to get. My high temp guns are all a bit 'wanting' for one reason or another (and I do have several) so I am always on the look-out for the perfect high temp gun.

Lidl Germany have a gun in this week (Parkside) here which is low temp with 7 mm sticks to match for 5.99 and 1.49 for 20 sticks. Couldn't resist at that price for a spare and I just tried it out, it's really, really good. Heats up quick, throws masses of glue out (I shot over half a stick through in one go just to try) or nice and fine, well balanced, the trigger/ feed mechanism works well and the gun feels 'well made'. Glue would not melt DEPRON (huge blob on a cut edge) but was amazingly sticky and seemed to stay liquid for ages, better than the Demel brand that I use now and they have colours as well (please, NOT the glitter stuff for your next project).

Not free but if you see them and are in the market for a new low temp gun don't hesitate.

So, Dremel gets switched over to high temp tonight and we have all the bases covered, going to purchase a life supply (I'm old) of glue sticks on the way home tonight and if the Dremel works OK I can relegate the other guns and sticks to the cellar....

Paul(icangluetheworldforpeanuts)B
Mar 14, 2019, 10:49 AM
Danish? Don't U eat that??
DKChris's Avatar
Title says "cheap or free", so I believe you should be right on the mark

(Maybe it's time for another little trip to our local Lidl store........already got a bunch of nice cheap and surprisingly well working tools and stuff there........definitely one of the better exports we have gotten from Germany )
Mar 14, 2019, 12:27 PM
Quad and foam adept
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After reading about the glue gun I just could not resist. Over here they didn't have the glue gun but I did get me one of these soldering stations for 10 - whatever the quality (cheap off course) it is cheap..

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Mar 14, 2019, 12:36 PM
Quad and foam adept
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Also saw this band saw. Don't know if it is cheap, it should be but for 100 it is a lot of money. Does anyone know if this thing is worth the money? If I want a sheet of wood precisely cut I normally go to the local maker shop and have it laser cut..

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Mar 14, 2019, 02:32 PM
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PaulB's Avatar
Go for it, tools are grown men's sex toys.......
Mar 14, 2019, 10:30 PM
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Lawn Dart Flyer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hermani
Also saw this band saw. Don't know if it is cheap, it should be but for 100 it is a lot of money. Does anyone know if this thing is worth the money? If I want a sheet of wood precisely cut I normally go to the local maker shop and have it laser cut..

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If you go on youtube and search it, you will find reviews of it, it's a capable saw for the money
Mar 15, 2019, 03:08 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
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The only item that really needs care when selecting bandsaw .... Throat depth.

That's the distance or maximum width of workpiece that can be accommodated from blade to back of machine.

For model makers the Burgess bandsaw was the standard for many years ..... compact, moderate price....

The bandsaw linked above ..... nice one - I like it.
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Mar 15, 2019, 03:51 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
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I see the linked Bandsaw on eBay .... like many other items - various labels stuck on them.... but anyway - 100 Euros for new is VERY good price ..... cheaper than on eBay
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Mar 15, 2019, 09:46 AM
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Peteohms's Avatar
Not only for RC but this keeps my work table dry.
Mar 15, 2019, 11:02 AM
Youtube channel : solentlifeuk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peteohms
Not only for RC but this keeps my work table dry.
You can of course get yachting mugs that are wider at bottom than the top ...... being a yachtie .... I have a few !

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Mar 15, 2019, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solentlife
You can of course get yachting mugs that are wider at bottom than the top ...... being a yachtie .... I have a few !

I could never make those cups work on my Hobie Cat. 😉
Mar 16, 2019, 08:39 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
The best hot glue for working on foam is the one labelled "slow setting for wood working" and it will work OK on either the lower or regular temperature settings on the gun.

But I still do nearly all of my bare foam to bare foam gluing with Gorilla glue. The quick setting white is good and for larger assemblies where it will be weighed down in position and left for yours or overnight the regular brown Gorilla glue is good.

I think the advantage of the GG is that, with foam that is bared (no plastic skin) it can penetrate down into the pores of the foam a little.

When I cover bare foam with colored package sealing tape, I use a plastic squeegee to spread a very thing coating of the GG on the bare foam and then apply the tape. That gives considerable added strength to the part against bending and it cannot be removed without destroying the part.

When you have pre-covered parts with the package sealing tape you can used the slow setting hot glue to glue them together by running beads of glue at the contact points. The images are of the quick detachable (for easy transport) of the tail assembly on the Big Blu 96" span glider and that has the vertical stabilizer hot glued to the horizontal stabilizer as seen in the images.

Jack
Mar 17, 2019, 05:31 AM
Registered User
I have a collection of old credit cards - some are the freebies from gas stations or grocery stores that try to get you into their loyalty programs, some are used up gift cards, hotel room keys, old driver's licences, etc.

These make excellent squeegies, epoxy mixing plates and little paint palettes. For joints of foam to foam, or foamboard to foamboard, I apply a bead of hot glue, then wipe with the card. For angled joints, such as fuselage to wing, the card's rounded corner makes a really nice fillet. Remember, as with any welding or gluing, the real strength comes not from a big go of glue; rather, a thin layer with a large contact area will create the strongest and lightest joint.

These cards can be cleaned up and reused indefinately. Hot glue - drip alcohol onto the card and lift the glue off easily, even even with your fingernail.

Like that credit card company says, "Don't leave home without it", or something to that effect.

I build a lot of foam contraptions. Although I have several glue guns, my usual one is the big, 40 year old Bostich thing.
It has one temperature - high - and will pour the glue through as fast as you can pull the trigger and feed it glue sticks. I find that usually the best way to glue is to start the glue just barely running, laying down a nice little bead along the joint, without touching the gun tip to the foam. That way, the glue is really hot and works into the foam without melting it. Do thus quickly, then swipe with the credit card to force it into the surfaces a bit and clean up the joint. Just like making a peanut butter samich, methinks!
Last edited by Deerslayer; Mar 17, 2019 at 05:42 AM.


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