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Dec 04, 2015, 01:04 AM
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Build Log

Hawker Sea Fury - 1200mm Avios (Rating 11/10 !!)


Huh, more planes?
Well HobbyKing did have a SUPER special on! Thus I bought a lot of new planes....
6 Avios Sea Fury's included.

I did not know much at all about the Avios Sea Fury, but at AUD$125 including shipping(!), for a 1200mm highly detailed model, that was impossible to refuse!! Thus why I bought 6 of them! I actually bought 5 Sea Fury's and ONE Sea Fury RACER... the "Riff Raff" Reno Racer version, which uses 6S instead of 4S (but the same output power level really).
I quickly read up forum info on them and it all sounded fine - the typical few quirks here and there, but I can fix those! So then I ordered them quick smart, before the sale could end.

When it arrived I was amazed! It is one of the best, if not the best. foam models I have seen! Very highly detailed - which Durafly are also, but this is just a bit more again.
Then all the design ideas and construction - THEY are the highlights of a new generation of foam models and strengths etc!

BUT... then I found out what that all costs in WEIGHT!! I saw it was listed at 2100g in the HobbyKing specs, but I thought that would be AUW with a battery. That is the 'EMPTY' weight! With a battery it is 2400g to 2600g or so!
This is one HEAVY foam model! Though I like heavy aircraft....
Maybe not THIS heavy!
But it is a work of art anyway....

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Last edited by PeterVRC; Dec 13, 2015 at 08:12 PM.
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Dec 04, 2015, 01:11 AM
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A quick look


The entire plane only uses screws to assemble it! Well, that is not too amazing but it is neat.
They also do the wing and wiring in a manner that you can actually EASILY remove the wing, and reassemble it, quickly, at the field!

Everything is robust and it is a solid plane... and thus heavy.
The only issue of note is the retracts which apparently can rip out of the wing quite easily. Poor gluing it seems.
The legs have alloy 'covers' which mean the 4mm legs have even more support to stop them ever bending - though they could bend at the retract trunion still. But 4mm is pretty strong... and needs to be for the AUW anyway!

Lots of custom made plastic stuff made for it. Lots of fine details. Once assembled it is a beautiful plane!
But.. the PAINT is weird. It looks great and is fine except that it is TACKY to touch, and tends to stick a bit to your fingers when picked up. So it NEEDS a coat of WBPU - which was almost the first tin I did. And once that is done it is a gleaming beautiful plane!

It have a large hatch and a lot of internal room! That seemed great... but later I found out that the battery needs to go right to the firewall, and that means it is all 'unseen' and slid up the front. That meant I needed to modify and lengthen the hatch! That was easy, as usual.

The pilot is placed to far rearwards in the cockpit, so once you know that sort of stuff it irks you to see it! So I moved him forwards - which helps move a bit of weight more forwards, to assist balancing the plane out.

Then the landing gear mod.. more on that big task later!

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Dec 04, 2015, 01:14 AM
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4 and 5 blade props


The Sea Fury comes with a 4 blade and 5 blade 'convertable' prop system. Basically it uses individual blades, so you use 4 or 5 blades on the appropriate hub/spinner that they give you two of - of course one for a 4 blade setup and one for a 5 blade setup.

But my 5 bladed Spinner had a mal-formed centre spindle....
I sent an RMA request, but I think I can straighten it out myself really. (yet to be done)

The rest of the plane was 100% perfect.

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Dec 04, 2015, 01:18 AM
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Split Dual Flaps


Because of the dihedral break in the wing the Sea Fury has dual flaps per wing side, but it has them linked to run from one servo. Very well thought out and implemented really!

They are Split Flaps and can come down to near 90deg, as per the full scale can too.

One 'error' Avios make is to tell you to drill out the Flap Servo horn to a bigger hole so you can run both pushrods, for the two Flaps per wing, into that one hole. That means a 'sloppy/jiggly' operation possibility!
Better is to just use the outermost Horn hole for one Flap and the next inner hole for that other - and then you do the same at the Flap Control Horn. This makes the geometry equal for both Flaps, so it works perfectly - and then you have Slop Free pushrods!
This is what Avios should have worked out and guided people to do....

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Dec 04, 2015, 01:19 AM
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Extended Hatch


As I mentioned, I extended the hatch so that it is much easier to feed in the flight battery, plus good access to use a velcro battery strap.
A very straight-forwards mod....

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Dec 04, 2015, 01:23 AM
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Moving Ivan the pilot


HobbyKing once again used their Russian pilot figure, and he is mounted too far rearwards in the cockpit. So some quick modding to mount him more forwards, and also move the 'seat' forwards, and that was done.

I actually cut off the lower cockpit section to lower it out, and then you make a fixing system to screw that back up. This means you have future access.
AND it allows for replacing that pilot/cockpit "module" with an FPV Module - a fully self contained setup, which again you just feed up into the cockpit/canopy area.

A Russian pilot??? That is wrong for a Sea Fury - you would think.
But a pilot is a 'variable' - and who is to say some Russian pilot wasn't invited to test fly a Sea Fury for some reason once upon a time! LOL

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Dec 04, 2015, 01:26 AM
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Larger Wheels - a MAJOR Mod


A Major Mod as it turns out....

The stock wheel is 57mm
They look too small.
They will operate poorly on grass.
So I test fit some wheesl and found even 66mm can fit. 2.75". As long as it is a 'rounded' wheel/tire.

Fitting those onto the legs is EASY....
Getting them to FIT in the wheel bay AND still allow the gear doors to operate AND fully close... that is the HARD part!
A LOT of work.... bending legs.. dremeling foam... testing... dremeling... adjusting things...
But in the end it was done and it all works exactly as per the stock ones had worked perfectly before!

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Dec 05, 2015, 05:08 AM
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Re-glue the Retract Mounts


One often reported issue with this plane is that the Retract Mount 'boxes' (plastic) are not glued into the wing very well. On mine that was pretty much the case too!
I levered off the oleo carefully and one 'cracked' out (glue) with medium effort, the other one was in very strong really.

I re-glued them using Polyurethane glue, which is excellent for this exact sort of application.

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Dec 05, 2015, 05:11 AM
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Battery Straps


I Epoxied in some 2.5mm Plywood plates with a Velcro Strap, to each internal side of the fuselage.
You really want a Flight Battery kept secure!
Velcro on the 'floor' keeps it in place laterally and Longitudinally, and than a strap makes sure it STAYS down on that Velcro so that all three Axis are then 100% secure!

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Dec 05, 2015, 05:14 AM
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Landing gear finalised


Now everything on the Landing Gear is completed 100% and it all works as perfectly as when it came stock. But it is MUCH better....
More Rake
Better, larger, wheels

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Dec 05, 2015, 05:15 AM
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Ready to Maiden


At the field, getting ready to Maiden....

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Dec 13, 2015, 09:03 PM
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Maiden Flight Video/Movie


Hawker Sea Fury - Avios 1200mm - Maiden Flight Movie (18 min 36 sec)
Dec 13, 2015, 09:04 PM
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Sea Fury - Take-offs and Landings (x8)


Hawker Sea Fury - 1200mm Avios - Take Offs and Landings (5 min 38 sec)
Dec 20, 2015, 02:05 AM
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Tail Wheel breaks off


As per has occurred to many/most of the Avios Sea Fury's, my Tail Wheel snapped off the other day. Just taxiing out to the take-off area and it broke off.

They break at a point where the 7mm plastic 'assembly' of all the leg/wheel stuff changes down to 5mm for the pivot bush. The plastic is quite brittle, and that step down in size means that 'edge' is a point of weakness.

It is fairly painful to fix... but once you know how to do it best, it is actually quite simple. Thus I did my Sea Fury Riff Raff Racer at the same time, before it ever gets to break!
I took note of a few ideas others had done to repair theirs, and "fine tuned"/altered those to achieve the best solution I could work out.

I made a quite large cutout of the underside tail area. This is best to be large because you need to get ALL of the steering assembly out for sure, but also there are panel lines that can be used - which also happen to bypass all the decals too(!) - so that it is all an 'invisible mend' once it is put back!

As mentioned, the tail wheel leg breaks off at the step where it changes diameter. Even though the stock bush is 5mm, you do not want to use that size because you are going to need to drill down the center of the lower leg piece to put a metal pin in. You are unlikely to be able to drill a 5mm hole down a 7mm diameter plastic leg very successfully! And there is no need for more than 3mm of leg/pin on a tail wheel like this anyway!

Seeing their stock bush is a nice plastic assembly already in the foam, I just got some brass tube to reduce the size down to 1/8th inch (imperial tube). It needed a tube inside a tube, to step it down that much. I epoxied each tube instead the one size above it, thus ending up with a 1/8th inch brass bush.

I drilled down the lower leg, from a very small size and moved larger by one drill size at a time, until 1/8". Then I cut and inserted a 1/8" piano wire leg into that - I ground 'rough bits' into the pin so that it could be epoxied into the lower leg with good grip.

I used a new nylon control horn, which is 1/8" brass bushed. I cut its arm down in length to suit, but made the hole for the pushrod a fraction further outwards than the stock one was - seeing I thought the tail wheel steering angle on the stock form was too much versus the Rudder motion.

I put two small skewers into the fuselage foam to locate the cutout piece accurately, then epoxied that back onto the fuselage.
You virtually cannot find the joins....
Two cuts are within panel lines, and the third (rear angled cut) pretty much looks like a panel line too.
Done....

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Last edited by PeterVRC; Dec 20, 2015 at 02:10 AM.
Feb 03, 2016, 07:06 AM
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Spinner mount breaks


On one nose-over the Spinner shot off, but thee propeller and backplate were still all totally fine.
For the Spinner to come off, when it has a centre screw holding it on, means the centre "tube", where the screw goes into, must break in some manner. What happens is that the centre tube is molded as part of the Spinner but its end 'cap', to keep the screw head from coming through, is a glued on piece (a flat ring). That piece broke apart and thus lets the screw head through - which lets the Spinner then come off.

Luckily there is a very nice fix for this!
"cocg" posted his discovery on a way to fix the problem!!
You can use a 4mm captive nut to replace that end 'cap' plastic. Just CA the 'tube' of the captive nut and press that into the Spinner 'tube'.
The reason to use CA is that it is a 'brittle' glue type, and it will fracture/break the joint if there is 'shock' to the joint. Yet it will hold very well under normal conditions. This means if you do have a nose-over, or some form of impact that causes that 'shock' then the Spinner captive nut can crack the CA joint and come off. This will assist in preventing damage to the Spinner or Prop, if it could not come off easily.

You need to use a 20mm x 3mm bolt to hold the Spinner on now. Not the stock shorted 3mm screw.

The same thing happened to my Riff Raff Spinner.

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Last edited by PeterVRC; Feb 03, 2016 at 07:34 AM.


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