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All the hardware came from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK. Takes a little more time in shipping but you get more bang for the buck. |
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Question:
Wouldn't that era tug have three bladed props? |
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looking great!!!more frames=better hull.. think about contacting propmeup for some great props,(your work deserves them) will you need a 27-28ft whaleboat ? I have a hull mold for them(https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...esuvius&page=8) #100.. also have a good library of ship boat plans of this vintage..(yes work will restart on the vesusius this week)
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I originally made the same assumption, but the plans show 4-bladed props. This was later confirmed by a photo I found of Patapsco in drydock in 1910, being repaired after a fouled propeller broke both of her shaft struts on the port side.
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Looking forward to more work on the Vesuvius! |
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Thanks for posting the photo!!
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All done with plating the hull. The shell expansion plan was invaluable here, and revealed that she was built with simple longitudinal plate runs arranged "in and out". This was fortunate because clinker-type plating would have required total coverage of the hull with plate. As it was, I modeled the outer plating runs only, allowing the underlying hull to simulate the inner ones.
I utilized 3M self-adhesive aluminum tape for this task, which works really well and does not release with water. I plated a hull this way 20 years ago and it is still solid as ever. I know there's all sorts of ways to go about this, but here is a summary of my "technique": 1. The expansion plan provides the height of each plate, but not the length as you know. So I start at the keel, marking the top and bottom edges of each plate at the relevant frames or stations. 2. Once this is done I connect the dots so that I have the whole plate run, bow to stern, marked on the hull. 3. I then take extra wide masking tape and lay it on the hull so that it covers the entire run of plate. I let it lie where it wants to, so that there are no wrinkles or contortion of the tape. 4. I then trace the plate outline I marked on the hull onto the tape, which shows through easily. 5. A suitable length of the aluminum tape is then laid out on a flat, non-stick surface. The masking tape is removed from the hull and pressed on top of the aluminum tape so that it is flat and straight. 6. Using an exacto knife, I follow the outline marked on the masking tape and cut through the aluminum tape below. Once the cuts are made the masking tape is discarded and the aluminum "plate" lifted from the board. 7. The plate is then affixed to the model, and will lay on the hull exactly as the masking tape did, with no creases or fussing with alignment. The plate is then rubbed down with a small wood block to conform to the contours. Rinse and repeat. I'm only modeling the most prominent plate lines here. No rivet heads, butt straps, or the like. Sometimes that level of detail can make it look overdone, and besides I have no desire to spend weeks counting rivets. The rubbing strakes on the hull are up next, and after that it's time to shoot some primer I suppose! |
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Pete G. |
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The rubbing strakes (aka fender bars) have been added and we are now in primer!
Solid basswood strips comprise the strakes, and the section around the fantail was bent with steam. I think it's time to get the shafts installed, along with the rudder and linkage. |
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