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May 08, 2018, 05:55 PM
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Zbip57's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Webb
Thanks Zbip for bringing this up, here's how I do that.
Gary
Excellent! Thanks for that brilliant demonstration.
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May 09, 2018, 06:53 PM
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Zbip57's Avatar
She has a name!
May 09, 2018, 09:48 PM
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Thread OP

A beautiful Irene


Very nice, Zb! Named for the Chemin at Lac Brassard?
May 09, 2018, 10:43 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Thanks Gary, even I can follow that,,
To anyone new, there is NO other way to do this properly.
How do I know?.. I recall all my failed attempts.

Bear doesn't look a day older than his first video.
May 09, 2018, 10:51 PM
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Zbip57's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by g'n's
Very nice, Zb! Named for the Chemin at Lac Brassard?
Yup. That'll be where she sails.
May 16, 2018, 03:05 AM
Registered User
Hello,
I am wanting to put a winch servo system into Emma. I wonder where the 18.5 inches in Gary's video for Irene is calculated. Would the sheet travel need to be about 20 cm for Emma? Regarding the sail arm system for Emma is 60 deg enough for limited sailing. Glad for any advice. Thanks, Irving
May 16, 2018, 03:39 AM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar

Emma .. Drum or arm winch ?


Hi Irving
I have an Emma with a drum system a'la Irene, and another with the arm configuration as in the standard Emma..
Late last year I set out to build the second Emma with just this winch question in mind. Would more boom travel afford more performance/speed ?
To get 80 degree of boom travel it took 22" of drum winch spacing, and that from an inch in front of the drum sheaves. To get it I had to place the idler pulley as far forward as possible (see photo.)
In regards to the arm system, to get as much deflection as possible I added an inch or so to the arm itself, achieving maybe 60 degree travel.
All the theory or previous experience sailing conventional rc sailboats pretty goes overboard when you start sailing these. Gary assures the builder that the travel afforded as per his specs are more than adequate for general sailing of these type of model. That same pre-experience almost assuredly has speed and competition high up the list on a models attributes.
And until you get the boat out on the water, in various conditions, you wont see why he has made both boats like they are specified.
You say “Regarding the sail arm system for Emma is 60 deg enough for limited sailing.” Definitely yes and yes .
The bottom line on both these boats are they are designed, and sailed, as cruisers, not racers. And they do that wonderfully.
Play around with modifications later, after you know your boat, or just enjoy a complete design package as it is.
That I went onwards anyway is just.. me.
But I built a second Emma to do it on, keeping the other stock standard. I see no good reason not to fit a drum winch in an Emma, it’s simply a viable option.

There is a lot more on the Emma over in that thread. And even more on http://rcsailboats.pw/
May 16, 2018, 05:18 AM
Registered User
Thanks the photo is very useful. Think I will stay with my limited arm servo-radio system at first. Will only be cruising. Later maybe try the winch. Wonder about choosing a winch servo, regarding the number of revolutions I will get. I have a simple radio, Hobby King 2.4Ghz 4Ch Tx & Rx V2 (Mode 2) and am considering getting an inexpensive winch servo, Sail Winch Servo 25T 10.63kg / 0.9sec (360deg) / 55g. Question is will it work regarding the number of revolutions? At the moment I am preparing the mast and booms. Not done any hull epoxying yet. All is stuck with bits of hot glue. I have taken photos of my building progress and probably will make a youtube.
Many thanks for your help.
May 17, 2018, 03:54 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
That winch is too small for a boat of this size, and it is 2 turns, the 25 T is the number of splines on the shaft.
You should use the HiTec in Gary's plans or an equivalent like a EXI B1226 (find them at HobbyPartz .. USA only.).
The winch must be able to do the job properly or it will either fail (over stressed) or at least be unable to perform adequately when the breeze is up.
Arm winches are designed for that function alone, conventional servos are far too small and greatly under powered.

But that's just based on my usage, maybe someone else has a cheaper solution?
May 24, 2018, 02:01 PM
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Zbip57's Avatar

I made a Gaffe. :(


Not a gaff (yet), but a gaffe. As in, I'm a goof.

First off, I made a batch of mast hoops out of 3/4" PVC pipe. I decided on eight per mast, so total sixteen needed. At a 1/4" thick each I'll need, let's see, a little more than 4 inches length of PVC pipe.

Nope. Home Depot only sells it in 10-foot lengths. Okay, so that's a little more than 4 inches. Brilliant.

It then occurred to me that a 10' length of pipe ain't gonna fit in my car. So I had them cut it in half for me. Then the cashier wanted to charge me twice. It took a bit of explaining that it's actually one single 10-foot length, just cut in half. Sheesh.

Sixteen slices later, and several hours of sanding, I had a nice stack of mast hoops ready to go.

Then I set about preparing the masts. I figured it'll be easier to varnish the masts first without those dangling mast hoops in the way. But if I'm going to apply varnish, I'll want all the various bits and bobs attached first. (Ya see where this is heading, eh? )

While attaching the various loops and cheeks for standing rigging to the masthead, I had another good idea. To make absolutely certain the cotter pins would never pull out of their holes, I used my Dremel tool to cut a series of notches into the cotter pins to give the epoxy something nice to grab a hold of. No way those suckers are ever going to come out again... Same for those pins used to mount the goosenecks...

After the epoxy was all set and cured, I brushed just a little more touch-up of satin finish varnish to cover the gloss of the epoxy. Tada! Pat on the back for a job well done...

.
.
.

And that's when I remembered the little pile of PVC rings which were supposed to go onto the masts BEFORE cementing the gooseneck pins in place.

I had to grind the gooseneck cotter pins off, and drill new holes, and drive half an hour each way to the closest shop that sells more of those stainless steel cotter pins. I'm such an idiot.
May 24, 2018, 05:30 PM
Flying Models Plans
Well, three steps forward and two back is still more progress than just sitting on the couch. Thanks for the reminder to think before gluing. Always a good plan.

Thayer
May 24, 2018, 08:46 PM
gp.
gp.
gp
gp.'s Avatar
Hi Zbip,
Next time you want to remove something that's been epoxied in, try warming it up till the epoxy softens, then gently pull apart; does not always work but worth a try.

Have a great day
May 24, 2018, 10:18 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
I ran out of warm weather before detailing Deborah, the hoops and things were added during the winter. My (plastic water pipe) hoops all got cut, slipped onto the finished masts, and CA'd back together. Waxed paper kept me from sticking them onto the mast. Plenty strong enough.
Last edited by Paul~; May 25, 2018 at 05:09 AM.
May 30, 2018, 09:42 PM
Registered User

Keel size


Currently building a Emma and need to go to the scrap yard to get the 1/8 " keel aluminum plate. Would like to get a piece for a future Irene build. What thickness and size of plate would I need for an Irene?
May 30, 2018, 11:57 PM
Flying Models Plans
Irene's fin blank measures 23 x 10 x 3/16 and you could get away with 23 x 8 x 3/16.

Only in the ballast bulb does the width extend to 10. and the resulting gap could filled with lead.


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