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Mar 13, 2018, 12:47 PM
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Had to add a flag to Lorraine.
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Mar 13, 2018, 02:41 PM
Cheers and beers!🍻
Originally Posted by Zbip57

On the subject of, "Don't, unless you can afford to lose it", here's what happened to our rally car last September.

A minor fuel leak turned into a catastrophic fire. See before, during, and after photos. It's toast.
Ouch is right! Kind of puts “burning up the track” into a whole new perspective

On the topic of retrieval, if there was some way to ‘heave-to’ that is put her nose through the wind, backwind the jib, (prevent it from going to the other side) ease out the main and fore, then put the helm down to try to bring her back up through the wind, would essentially stall her in her tracks. ( make sure that booms are out to port side to be sure of ‘starboard’ right of way)...

Garry is chuckling now, I just know it!

That way, Bear can go below, make a distress call, take a ration or two of rum...

Other than that, I will have my kayak ready for the call!
Mar 13, 2018, 03:17 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
It seems to me that Mother Nature will have the final say on any built in failsafe/retrieval on-board mechanism we come up with.
Where I sail the wind is hardly ever constant for long, and also prone to directional shifting somewhat, usually during frequent gusts.

Because of that the boat will be inevitably sent, either directly (often unerringly so) or in non-regular gyrations towards whatever shore of inconvenience (to you) she chooses.

That leaves the Wary Skipper to coming up with a shore based retrieval vessel, one that is highly likely to actually succeed (otherwise, why bother?)

Would be very interesting to read what you think might do the deed, and see if others agree or can spot possible flaws in the system.
As Jimbo has already suggested a kayak we can pretty much say that's a given, if not practical for most of us.
Mar 15, 2018, 03:43 PM
Registered User
Claybury's Avatar


A benchtop bandsaw with a 1/4" wide, 14 TPI, hook tooth, blade turns a sheet of door skin ply into an Irene kit in short order. Nice clean edges too.
Used a scroll saw for the interior cuts and tight radii.
Mar 15, 2018, 03:59 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Nice looking unit clay. I just changed mine from 18 t.p.i. to 14, hoping it wouldn't make a less clean cut, but as you say, it does. AND it is a lot faster than 18.
The blade supplier talked me into a 10 t.p.i. and an 8 t.p.i. as well as he said the 18 would "burn" the wood. Well, it never did to ply, but it did slightly color 1" pine though. Probably neve ruse the heavier blades unless I run out.
Nothing worse than knowing the blade is running rougher and waiting for that SNAP!! and clatter as the weld join gives away.

I have a pedestal model, with a 10mm blade.. It is by far my favorite tool. Also a very much lighter bench one.
Mar 20, 2018, 08:41 PM
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Claybury's Avatar

Gone 3D

I had some time today so I assembled flat plywood into a nice 3D Hull.
The plans are very nicely done. The parts fit is excellent. Copper wire was used to “stitch” the bottom panels on and pull everything tight and aligned.
I was a bit sceptical about the door skin. I’ve seen it in the past and left it on the shelf. It looks floppy, warped, and like cracks waiting to happen. I had it on the back of my mind to layup some fiberglass sheet and build with that if the plywood looked too bad once cut.
In Irene size pieces the stuff is just fine.
Learn something everyday.
Mar 20, 2018, 10:46 PM
Cheers and beers!🍻
Glad to see the door skin is good to go! When I put my own ‘E Irene’ hull together, I decided to cover with fibreglass cloth, the lightest weight available, and epoxy resin. I also used 1 1/2” glass tape to epoxy all interior joints. The results were excellent!
I am still in the process of my build and it is coming along beautifully.
Feel free to check out my blog and photos of my own progress, I have pics there of glassing the hull.

Cheers’n’Beers! Jim
Mar 21, 2018, 09:13 AM
Registered User
I’m finally back on the Irene build again. I’m making a removable arrow shaft sail winch system to bolt in place. I’m thinking I’ll make one for the jib and another for mainsail.
Mar 21, 2018, 12:20 PM
Modeler/ Historian
Stephen Vick's Avatar
Mar 21, 2018, 08:26 PM
Registered User
Very nice winch. Would like to see some more pictures and dimensions of your winch system. Servo and drum used?
Mar 21, 2018, 08:52 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar

Treating plywood for marine construction purposes.

Treating plywood for marine construction purposes.

We choose plywood because it is cheap, easy to work with and generally plentiful in supply.

However, unless you pay a good deal more you have to appreciate that our material of choice is not perfect. To use it in boat building, even on our scale, it must be treated before you get very far into the job.

Gary recommends penetrating epoxy which is obviously the best choice, he should, and does know such things. However, depending on where you live and what is available you may not be able to get this in smaller quantities, if at all.
So, what to do? My Irene was treated with 1:4 Boncrete/water as this product is used not only for bonding timber but also in mortar and grouts as water proofing./bonding agent. It is certainly cheap enough.

But what is it about ply that makes it so imperative to waterproof it? Ply is, in this build, 3mm approx. 3 ply. The adhesive used is sufficient to hold the ply together for cutting, shaping and fixing but as you will soon find, depending on the grade of ply, it is not hard to separate the top ply if care is not taken. But the main concern is stopping water, even moisture, from entering the ply and weakening the adhesive as the timber swells.

So far, in my own three boat experience, the main damage is likely to arise if the edges of the ply are not totally sealed. And this means ALL edges, in glue or otherwise. One of my deck structures inadvertently went unsealed on the edge sitting on the deck (and that is not normally where it would be) and although seemingly bedded in epoxy, water from deck wash found its way in and it was evident when the enamel painted surface showed up alarming ripples. Thin 5 minute epoxy brushed in, warmed a tad to assist penetration, is surefire insurance.. even superglue for patches will suffice, at a pinch.

If you are using door skin as a featured deck material it will need to be well sealed even so with clear enamel or synthetic varnish/sealer. If you don’t, it wont take a lot of U.V. to let moisture through and ruin the deck.

All this is just my 2 cents worth, can anyone add to it for the benefit of those just starting a build?

Note: I’m consolidating a lot of Emma/Irene info on a dedicated website to make searching for specifics a lot easier than on RCG. However, I would appreciate articles from those who have built these. Gary has obliged, thankfully. You can email me [email protected]
Mar 21, 2018, 10:30 PM
Registered User


On the plywood, thin CA wicked into the ends will seal it and make it extremely strong especially for small parts made using this material. Any epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol works nicely on the flat surfaces. All available most anywhere.
Mar 21, 2018, 10:45 PM
Registered User

Sail Winch

I drew this in CAD and will put up a pdf. Pretty simple to cut on a scroll saw or you could laser it if you need a lot of them. I used the cheap “plywood” with CA wicked into the ends then coated with thinned epoxy. The pulleys are commercially availble and would work with most any pulley as long as one end is sprung. Small spring bought at Lowe’s. The rings are fishing tackle and used to attach the sheets. The length is based on the travel you need. Endpoints are set in the radio endpoints. The sail servo is a Turnigy TGY-6109MD.

(Thanks to Stephen Vick for all the help making this! )
Last edited by CarlMalone; Mar 21, 2018 at 10:53 PM.
Mar 22, 2018, 11:05 AM
Registered User

Sail Winch

Here is a PFD for the sail winch patterns.
Mar 22, 2018, 05:18 PM
Registered User
Zbip57's Avatar
Slow progress...

Paint, stain, varnish, ... All this stuff seems to take forever to dry, then it needs a second coat, which also takes forever to dry, plus a third coat....


Not to mention it stinks up the whole house, and I'm going cross-eyed from the fumes.

I suppose I could do the painting outdoors, but it's still winter here. Then again, if I wait too long, it'll soon be black fly season and then I'll have all those little buggers stuck in the paint.

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