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Oct 27, 2017, 08:59 AM
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Wooden blocks 4

A fellow member of my local model boat club has just pointed out to me that Wooden blocks with brass sheaves are also available from Look for R&B fittings among the forty odd suppliers they stock then Wooden blocks working Sizes from 7mm 8mm9mm10mm12mm15mm17mm priced from 65p for smallest to £1-32for largest , They ship world wide Usual disclaimer except as satisified customer .
Regards C/P
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Oct 27, 2017, 04:43 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Thanks CP.

While I found making the blocks entirely by hand most satisfying, if somewhat finger cramping at times, these are a compromise and the timber used, ideal.

What I'm finding, generally, is that it well worth seeking to make tackle and sheet operation as smooth as possible. While most of the blocks are not continuously worked (gaff operation), in milder airs the booms are not swinging over and remaining at the same position , that is, the main and fore boom will be at different angles. a lot of this is due to my current selection of fairlead, cordage and possibly too much block friction.

Fair enough, Irene is designed as a cruiser, not a greyhound, and under medium to stronger conditions she tries to be.

The more I sail her the more I realise that she has a longer legs under her, just need to make them more workable. As I say, probably my poor crafting, so I'll be trying to improve. If I need custom blocks on the sheets then I may have to go that way, hope not though.

I'm also noticing that the sheet travel is really a bit of ther sluggish side ( probably just my opinion due to conventional rc sailboat setups and characteristics) and will be looking at why that may be something I've not done well. Thought maybe adding a smaller winch to handle the jib only and operated by the same Rx channel. Bit overboard, hey? We'll see.

Interesting day yesterday. took the Molly B out for some onboard video testing and while doing so had to "repel boarders" This bloke had swum some 100 metres from an island to attempt his privateer act.
Not be taken lightly, even this 30" juvenile can kill a human being, it's a highly venomous Aussie species.
Oct 28, 2017, 12:18 AM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar

Video for previous post

Rc schooner stalked by a snake (3 min 43 sec)

First trial for camera placement, will be continued. Good fun .
Oct 28, 2017, 02:36 AM
Registered User
Good shot Rob view 10, couple O mozzies hitching a dengerous ride? This might help ,have found most times that sails don't swing is due to tight gooseneck ,
Especially on our WeeNips as the goose neck is ridgid and the mast must swivel in its mountings , sheets will run sweet if a small amount of silicone is applied by placing on a piece of tissue and the sheet run through it then wiped off makes it real slippy, If you want rigging to never slip again apply (Bees Wax) ,But you will never get it to slip again , you will have to throw it , Regards C/P
Last edited by Cornish Pierat; Oct 28, 2017 at 02:41 AM.
Oct 28, 2017, 03:13 AM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Thanks CP.

I agree, goosenecks do need to be free swinging and for years all mine have. As the Irene doesn't have a vang ,it's gooseneck is totally free, might I say "the swingingest!". ?

It consists of three large stainless steel cotter pins While the photo sort of hides it, the centre threaded screw has a cotter pin essentially under the lower nut.

In hindsight (I sometimes tend to just write what I'm thinking, not what I've actually seen and do so only to raise discussion ) I think my boat's light conditions problem is in the fairleads. I haven't come across any copper tubing, yet, so used narrow brass, and that may be part of the 'drag". So I really need to check it out on the bench and see what's not going freely.
Oct 29, 2017, 12:41 PM
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Understand your point re fairlead , any type of tube will add friction to the free running of the sheets (more tube length more friction ) which is why I have only ever used glass beads for through the deck fairleads Just select dressmakers bead same or slightly more than deck thickness .drill hole same dia ,push stick through centre of bead ,(so as to have something to hold it with ) dab of epoxy and fit in to deck leave in place until glue is hard ,then gently remove the stick , Very free running and with minimal contact with the sheet , Use them on five sailboats to date and never had any problems with use or water ingress .
Regards C/P
Oct 29, 2017, 03:56 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by robcrusoe
I can do that It is 370mm centre to centre at the deck openings. I cannot get into the hull (easily) to measure it down there.But it should be the same, albeit not directly (vertical underneath.). They haves a 10 degree aft rake. The centre of the foremast, just above the opening in the deck, measure approx. 330 mm to the bow. That depends somewhat to where you consider the bow to be, on mine it is blunt where the bowsprit extends from. Gary is the best person to comment on any deviation from his plans in respect to rake.
Oh, yes, this a the gaff option version, cannot tell from your photo which version you are following, there is a difference in the mast settings.

As for getting awash I can't imagine (haven't pushed it that hard..yet) for water coming any further than halfway across the deck area between cabin side and gunnel. Even so, and I have had rc sailboats that have had from little to catastrophic amounts of water in them , yet I cannot see the Irene ever tasking on more that a negligible amount of water ingress, and even if it did, it would take an awful lot of water to get up to the electronics and by that time you would have seen her sitting too low in the water. But that won't happen unless the hull is pierced somehow. the 3mm ply I use would need canon fire to do that! But you say your ply is a little thin, how thick is it? The scuppers work very effectively and are only needed when the boat heels over on a fast reach. This is the only boat I have that wont be fitted with a drain plug.

But I haven't had mine out in a decent blow yet, we have to look to Glidin' for his experiences.

You mention having to make adjustments to fit the deck. Well, so did I on the current Emma project and got in myself into some strife. All I can say is do as Gary says, fit the bulkheads into the hull and then make the deck fit, not the other way around as I did on the Emma.
Hi Rob. I'm making the gaff rigged version. Thanks for the trouble taken . Measurements between mast bases are the same.
Oct 29, 2017, 04:06 PM
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Thanks to everyone for help with mast rake. Meaured angles and they dont look too bad. Been busy planing down wood for keel box. Sail patterns are also drawn. May use some white ripstop for sails. Masts and booms just need a final sand, Still to make blank to cast bulb. Came across this neat ships wheel. It was originally part of a pencil sharpener. The ply I am using for most of the boat except the keel box is 1/8.
Oct 30, 2017, 02:54 PM
Registered User

mast hoops

cut some mast hoops earlier but not clear how they attach to the sail. They seem too thick to cut a hole in the sail. Is there a light line the height of the sail which the hoops attach to or are the hoops just sewn at points along the sail? Always glad of your help even if itis a landlubber question!
Oct 30, 2017, 03:32 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
That wheel is a real find, mount in of a pedestal on the rear hatch and it will look great.
I used thin spinnaker ripstop in while on an earlier classic boat but it was very attractive, at least the colour I got. As well it less responsive to light airs. I kind of discounted cotton initially as it seemed , well, toy like, but since Gary thought enough of it and when under sufficient way the sails, all three of them, fill out wonderfully I staying that way. That little bit of stretch is like jeans, you know... But I also had in mind to make some out of light or medium Mylar (32/55 micron) because all our rc racing sailboats use that now to great effect and appearance. But, I have to say I'm unable to separate cotton form the schooner so am sticking with cotton. If you do use rip stop make sure it isn't the coated (silicone) variety as it wont take double -sided filament tape. But anyway, that 's just my 2 cents worth. If you do use it , go for colours and post some images, please.

The mast hoops must be be sewn on at spaces to suit, but I just looked at Gary's photos and worked it out as 7, from there. The lower one on mine seems to be needed a bit lower to hold the sail corner {tack} in towards the mast, the upper seems fine don't worry about your sewing finesse, just do it a few times then wrap the thread around 2-3 times to bunch the threads and tie. I added a minimum amount of superglue, carefully, the bind it. When sewing through the seam, avoid the cord running freely through it.

Thanks for your input, it what keeps this topic moving along.
Oct 30, 2017, 04:46 PM
Registered User
If you are looking for RC Sailboat - sail cloth ... there are several choices of materials and color from these guys

NOTE: This is where Victor Models gets their sail cloth material ...

ASK ABOUT "Remnants" ... or ... seconds.
Rolls that are off color or short lengths that can't be sold for most customers - perfect for RC Sailboats

I personally have never used it before ...
But a few folks have used it for schooner sail cloth
Oct 30, 2017, 05:17 PM
Registered User

Mast Hoops sail cloth

Hi Rob,
Thanks for clearing that up. I have some mylar but it wouldnt look right on the schooner. I have an offer of a sheet and would shrink then dye it tan. I have used the rip stop few times and its easy enough to sew on the machine and doesnt get mildew as easily. I was planning to use the bolt rope round the sail so i wouldnt use the filament tape.
thanks also to slo.ca6. I live in the uk so postage from the states would not be an option.
Some progress but there is no rush. Made up some fairleads from 1/8 copper tube. Bent and flaired easily. Just o figure which way to point them. My iom has everything above deck. Its a cedar strip scratch built.
Last edited by ourbluehorizon; Oct 30, 2017 at 05:24 PM. Reason: changes
Oct 30, 2017, 07:33 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Bob.. If you are going to use ripstop then what do you mean by shrinking it? All that I've used was spinnaker light ripstop and it never stretched on any of my boats, well not noticeably.
Have you seen ripstop dyed before? I haven’t, and I would be interested as to how "fast" it was in permanence and fading.

I personally don't see much point in spending too much time and money of high quality sails other than a s personal preference. From my sailing time with the Molly G it is pretty clear that it is definitely a cruiser, not a racer, and its major attraction will always have to be its general appearance rather than anything else. Should some group find enough interest to build several then that would be different, but from what we are seeing (or not seeing) is any number of Irenes actually being regularly sailed. Perhaps there are, and there should be, but compared to any other rc model sailboat, very little.
My mate and I are well into making a pair of Emmas with the intention of match racing them. They are easier, faster and cheapest to make of the pair and it perhaps with these that finer sail design and materials could be seen to be effective. Initially both of ours will be poplin cotton sails as per the video, but both of us have a extensive experience with Mylar and will probably at some time, try it out on those.
But, as I’ve said, this is just my opinion and not necessarily an accurate one or even the most practical. If I were Gary I would just be happy to see any Irene, however fitted out, sailing.
Oct 31, 2017, 07:03 AM
Registered User

Shrinking sails

Hi Rob. My wife is offering a spare bed sheet. Thats what i would shrink then dye. The rip stop is whats left from my kite making days! No need to shrink it. I agree the Irene is there for the looks not as a racer. A group of friends bought the monsoon to sail when it gets too windy for flying. Sailing should be about having fun. Might get the keel box in tonight.
Oct 31, 2017, 03:44 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Ah, OK. not being into laundry in any way, other than using it, I would have thought general washing , drying and usage would shrink it. But as for dying, there is really no need unless you can't find some poplin cotton at the local materials shop in a colour to suit you. I only paid $3 per metre for each of two colours, the jib is a preloved bed sheet. You don't need a metre, it more than enough for 2 Irenes, but I expect that in time the colouring will fade, and you might want to do another set. I needed both as I had the seams wrong initially. Take REAL care in where the ropes go in, and for me I will add 50% to the seam plan width to allow a little more rom within. I threaded the cord in afterwards (using long piece of wire, with cotton thread, then tied to the cord, nautically termed ďto roveĒ, I think.
Getting the fin box in is a critical stage. Donít glue it in until you have attached the keel and checked it is truly vertical and centred. I drop a plumbline at the bow and stern then line all three up together. Use the same method for the rudder before you fix the rudder stem housing in place.
If you havenít yet produced the aluminium keel then cut one out of 3mm wallboard as all that is necessary that it fits your box internally and has enough visibility to see the sighting up procedure through..
These are just things I did, probably just common sense but worth just adding in case . Probably a better way of doing it, but it has worked twice for me.

Keep up the great reports, it helps a lot of us to see what others are doing.

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