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May 22, 2017, 08:42 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Originally Posted by borazslo
Hi all!

As a very first step I've made a vectorgraphic version of the plans Page4 and Page5, so as to be able to laser cut the main parts of the hull. (I am working with Autodesk Fusion 360.) If there is anybody else interested in the vectorgraphic version I am happy to share my files through Gary's Dropbox Folder.
As I may be able to get mine laser cut also how do I go about getting a copy of your files? I'm totally unfamiliar with Dropbox.

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May 22, 2017, 10:04 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Thanks Slo.

I mean only to use thin cardboard as templates. While I should only really need to build this once I have found from long experience in similar personal endeavors that I tend to use the first to identify what I either did wrong, or more often, poorly, then do a better one. and so on.
This was how I went from making ripstop r.c. sailboat sails (typically Shunbos and Joysway Dragons) to Mylar. These will be cotton and procedure quite different, but unlikely to get by with the first try.
I'd previously intended to use hard balsa planking on a classic hull design but since Gary has done all the hard work and offered up a more simplistic project, and proven design, I'll stick with his build.
May 22, 2017, 10:35 PM
Registered User
Can appreciate your point of view - doing things right first time ...

Just offering suggestions for a shortcut to your first build ... to allow learning for next build - like you suggested

All the best - look forward to following your build

Ray S
Irvine CA
May 23, 2017, 04:27 AM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Thanks Slo, I've asked for advice so gladly accept all of it.

I've had the plans printed, well, sort of.. It seems the printing service's printer was about only 98% undersized, he said it wouldn't print any wider. I was tempted to go elsewhere but since it was only $11 for the two large sheets and the dimension are all proportional as they should be, it wont be difficult to add the extra margins to the hulls panels and the deck. As you say, there is room to improvise a little without changing the overall characteristics of the boat.
I'm keen to get right into making all the ply sections but tomorrow is one of our biweekly sailings so it will have to wait until Thursday. I have a couple of well used bandsaws, the larger will be very handy for many of the pieces.

I'm going with the 1/8" pine ply as I had a good look at it today and see no reason why it should not do the job.

Once I get to ply processed I'll start posting progressive pics. While it may well be old hat to most of you it will at least make me more careful than usual.

May 23, 2017, 11:25 AM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
bbbp's Avatar
IF you made a 98% scale Irene, nobody would notice!
May 23, 2017, 06:00 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

Waterline marker

Saw this gizmo, looks like just the thing for anti-fouling paint appearance
Last edited by Paul~; May 23, 2017 at 07:11 PM. Reason: Add photo
May 24, 2017, 02:39 AM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar

Recyled door skin investigated

While I took due note of the earlier comments warning that trying to disassemble a full door could be a job of work and possibly not practical.

Although I am going to use Bunnings 2.7mm pine ply as Borazslo has but cut it manually, I was driving past the Recycle yard today on the way home from sailing when I thought "What the heck, it's only $10, Is it practical?" So I selected a finish that looked the pick of the bunch (were a lot of crappy ones) and somehow got it into my hatchback, along with a DF95 and RC Laser and brought it home.
Well, It took a couple of hours and more effort than is really necessary as I tried different ways to removed the paper cell filler.
I first cut the timber frames away, finding that it is doubled where the door handle was fitted then tried a variety of ways to remove the filler.
As it turned out it would have a lot faster if had I an assistant as with enough careful tugging the two sheets apart, bit by bit, , the paper actually breaks clean away from the adhesive which remains as slight raised pattern.
Since I'll only use the resultant skins for the deck and maybe the superstructures I decided to give it a careful going over with a belt sander, VERY lightly, using a well worn belt.
And it came out pretty nicely overall.
I don't recommend doing this as it is really a last resort, but just show s it can be done.
I should add that my dear wife dated the door handles to the 1960/70s and I don't doubt it. The thing is, though, that being close to 50 years old that glue would have lost some retention and the paper itself probably also somewhat aged.
Last edited by robcrusoe; May 24, 2017 at 04:07 AM.
May 24, 2017, 02:21 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
bbbp's Avatar
Nice looking wood, is it teak?

May 24, 2017, 05:11 PM
Mad on modding
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Maybe, I would have thought teak to be dark brown, but then I'm no expert on such.
It certainly stood out among the others and will look great as the decking. It was unaffected by paint thinners .
I'll use the the plain finish pine for the hull.

Will start cutting out the pieces today, looking forward to it.
Jun 03, 2017, 02:52 PM
Registered User

My first experience with epoxy

After consulting with a Hungarian expert I bought my first bucket of epoxy: SR-8500 with SD8605. For the epoxy gel I use it with HDK-H-15. Then PMXIP 235 for thin version.
  • My very first mixture of my life worked out well, even though it has remained a little bit liquid as you can see in the right side of my first picture.
  • The second time I made big mistakes so suddenly I had heat and smoke and ... See the second image. (Nobody was harmed. Not even myself.)
  • The third mixture was good again. The best of the three. Se the left side of the first picture.
  • After a day I cut out the pieces from STA1, 4, and 5. (I have not started to work with the fin, so I did not cut out the STA2 and STA3 either.)
  • The I made my next two mixtures: a thin/liquid version for a very first layer. 100g SR8500 + 5g PMXIP 235 + 35g SD8605
So it will be a long journey, but I am satisfied yet.
Last edited by borazslo; Jun 04, 2017 at 03:19 PM. Reason: Added Photos
Jun 04, 2017, 11:04 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
That looks great and your description of the process to date is also much appreciated.

It's bit early yet to start my build postings as I had to take a week out for family holidays (it's a tough life sometimes) but as from tomorrow I should be back into production.

Jun 10, 2017, 12:23 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

bottom paint and Christened, finally

The hull was marked for the water line and sprayed with glossy brown Rustoleum paint to discourage fouling.
Deborah was finally christened after lengthy wondering about how to letter her. I have no skill with a paint brush. Finally her name was simply printed onto paper. The labels were then sprayed back and front with clear acrylic, super glued to the hull, and then clear coated again. Hopefully the paper is waterproofed and not noticeable.
Also, mast hoops were added to the mainsail and foresail, and hanks to the jib. Next I'll start on a servo actuated camera mount. Then I want to prepare the foresail to be furled for stronger breezes.
Jun 10, 2017, 01:48 PM
Registered User

Lead Bulb

I am looking for someone to cast a lead bulb for the schooner Irene. I do not have the equipment or knowledge to cast it myself. I would certainly pay costs of production, handling, and shipping.
Jun 10, 2017, 03:12 PM
Boaters are nice people.
Hi Irv,

Try to contact this gentleman:

If all fails you could get a ready made bulb like this one:
It's quite expensive though...

Regards, Jan.
Last edited by pompebled; Jun 10, 2017 at 03:20 PM.
Jun 10, 2017, 04:59 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
I continue to follow your build with great interest as you explain what you are doing so well. This sort of reporting encourages me to keep at it and hopefully come up with something unique, although this thread has been so well covered that is not so easy!
Regarding your novel approach to lettering it certainly looks more than acceptable.

A couple of suggestions for anyone else looking at this method and in respect to waterproofing.
Print the name as you have onto heavy quality glossy printing paper and process it through a plastic laminater which will keep everything other than the very thin cut edges dry.
Then over spray as you ve done.
I have really heavy glossy colour laser paper which will be used for mine.

The thing about finishing off or decorating rc sailboats is that as soon as the view moves a few feet away the smaller imperfections vanish. I'm counting on that.

I'm spending many hours on the Molly Gunn but until she looks presentable I'll hold off posting photos.

Next thing is to source the material for the keel.

Is that gorgeous helmsperson REALLY going to be operated on?

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