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Apr 23, 2017, 03:08 AM
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He really put a lot of effort in this boat and turn it into a masterpice Emma. Sloop Emma is my next project and these pictures are so inspiring that I want to start building it right away
thanks for sharing Gary
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May 03, 2017, 04:13 PM
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newbie on board

Hi all!

I have been dreaming about RC schooners for a long time. And now I am beginning the adventure in Hungary. I have choosen schooner Irene and I would like to make it with gaff rigs (because I've worked on the schooner Mercantile and Grace Bailey (Maine, US)). Thank you Gary for the nice plans.

I am beginner in woodworking, but I hope you will be able to help me.

As a very first step I've made a vectorgraphic version of the plans Page4 and Page5, so as to be able to laser cut the main parts of the hull. (I am working with Autodesk Fusion 360.) If there is anybody else interested in the vectorgraphic version I am happy to share my files through Gary's Dropbox Folder.
May 03, 2017, 09:46 PM
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Thread OP

worldwide schooner

Originally Posted by borazslo
Hi all!

I have been dreaming about RC schooners for a long time. And now I am beginning the adventure in Hungary.
I am beginner in woodworking, but I hope you will be able to help me.
Hi borazslo! Glad to hear you're in! Irene seems to me a great project for learning. I've tried to describe how I did things and will be happy to discuss further things like adhesive selection, clamping, and whatever will help. My first boat build, Irene turned out so well. Not perfect but "perfect enough"!
Let's add to this thread as an aid to other learning builders. I hope it's a good way to thank Gary for Irene!
May 12, 2017, 02:26 PM
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Let's begin

Today I've received the lasercutted parts. It is time to check out the youtube video of building.
Last edited by borazslo; Jun 02, 2017 at 02:47 PM. Reason: Added photos
May 13, 2017, 11:31 AM
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On the Page 5 of the plans the STAs has a curved top instead of a straight one, ma I right? So does it mean that the deck will be curved as well? If yes, does the deck beams need to be curved as well as seen on Page 4? But how can I adjust everything to have the same curve?
May 14, 2017, 09:35 AM
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Thread OP
Yes, you can arch the deck beams all the same then cut them to varying lengths. Mine are two thicknesses of door skin, nice and stiff. The cabin walls were glued first at the corners, then the deck was flexed to the lines to glue the rest.
Will you sell the laser cut parts? Could be a short kit.
May 22, 2017, 04:12 AM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar

Door skin quality

I'm in Bendigo, Victoria, Australia
I have the Irene graphics and will get the plans printed very soon.
In the meantime I've been hunting for a source of the door skins for material.
As it happens our local council recycle yard has a good number of wood grain versions, some very dry looking and probably just been there a while. however there are a number of far better looking ones and some still have quality a finish on them.
They only want $10 a door so that's nice to know.
My initial question is simply how do I assess the quality of the doors skins they have. Some are decidedly better looking and the edges show a higher degree of joining. The grain looks rather finer and more general on a couple so I wonder if they are of a premium product?

I can see the thickness from the edges and they seem pretty standard but I notice by rapping on them some have a more "dense" quality about them which could be a better thing. Also the quality of the joinery the skins are attached to, vary and so I suppose what looks the neatest is probably going to the best.
I appreciate that it probably doesn't really matter much but I thought I'd dip my big toe into this thread and see if any advice can be provided.
While I am a pretty poor carpenter I can do a reasonable job, with patience and help.
I will definitely post photos and very likely videos as the build progresses.

I have a fairly solid background in rc sailboating but this will be my first scratch-build in sailboats.
May 22, 2017, 08:37 AM
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Just a very quick comment ...

When they say "Door Skin" ... folks are offering the suggestion to purchase plywood that is VERY THIN and referred to by many as "Door Skin"

From the post you made above ...
Sounds like you are looking to purchase a FULL SIZE DOOR - with the idea of removing the "Door Skin" ?? This was NOT the intent of the suggestion to acquire door skin this way ... but rather ... purchase plywood in the normal manner but of the thickness referred to in the industry of building n furniture supplies as "Door Skin"

My apologies for my comments above - if I misunderstood your latest comments ... it seems like you are looking to purchase full size door - just to get "Door Skin" material
May 22, 2017, 11:40 AM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
bbbp's Avatar

The Guts

Re - the above response,
It does sound like you are looking at complete doors. The inside of even a hollow door is not hollow. They are usually filled with a honeycomb like structure, perhaps 2 inch cells, that support the skins. These are glued to each side skin & could be a real pain to get off, unless you have some sort of drum / thickness sander.

May 22, 2017, 04:09 PM
Registered User
This is what l found at my local HD

This stuff is great, I've made sail boxes out it, let alone a Schooner...
May 22, 2017, 04:18 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Thanks for that.. Seems I was totally up the wrong tree.

Looking around locally (from my desk) I wonder if this product might fit the bill.

Being of pine it would not be considered a quality ply I expect but I have used it in 7mm and 9mm to make a birdhouse (without plans ) that was entirely satisfying.

however I've taken some photos of the 3mm I have on hand so you may consider whether it would be suitable. If it is then I able to get it locally at any time. They do a 2.7mm sheet but I think it is very low quality and also only in 1200mm (just under 48" ) x 600 sheets.
There are no cracks or splits and that sheet has been in a garden shed for well over year, so somewhat tested in durability .

Before I look further afield please give me your opinion, I appreciate any assistance.
Last edited by robcrusoe; May 22, 2017 at 05:54 PM.
May 22, 2017, 05:58 PM
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Thread OP

Not for experts only

robcrusoe, I wanted to say Irene is designed for easy building and does not require laborious fitting etc.
My hull had gaps along the chines, no worry. The epoxy paste created the joints.
I was very excited to find a boat with really great appearance that doesn't require endless tedious building.
I wanted a fun sailboat, not a family heirloom.
Proceed with confidence, you'll do fine.
Last edited by Paul~; May 22, 2017 at 07:00 PM.
May 22, 2017, 06:00 PM
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Thread OP

Not experts only

Oops please delete
May 22, 2017, 08:13 PM
Mad on modding
robcrusoe's Avatar
Thanks Glidin', that is very reassuring.
I'm off now to see if I can get the plans printed.
I think I can get the ply laser cut through a mate but looking at the project I will probably opt for tack fixing the plan cut outs (may be traced first onto other paper, maybe thin cardboard) then cut out with tools I am already familiar with.
May 22, 2017, 08:26 PM
Registered User
Hey robcrusoe

If your build will be "One-Off" ...
You can use the cardboard frames - and skip laser cut wood (door skin) frames ... cardboard is more than adequate to use for one-off build frames.

Then use balsa planking attached to cardboard frames (hull planking) ... BUT FIRST ... apply to those cardboard frames - heat activated wood veneer material called "Edgeband" (The Edgband is used in furniture or shelving EDGES and heat activated wood veneer to cover plywood or particle-press board)

The wood veneer edgeband attached to cardboard frames will release with a twisting - once hull in planked and glassed. BUT - during hull planking will allow balsa planks to be CA GLUED to wood veneer edgeband cardboard covered frames ... after cardboard frames removed / released by twisting ... leaves wood veneer attached to hull balsa planking similar to regular frames
Last edited by slo.ca6; May 22, 2017 at 08:31 PM.

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