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Jul 20, 2016, 12:56 AM
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laying the deck...already!

PC-7 epoxy paste was applied to the tops of the bulkheads and the deck was laid in place. The halves of the lead ballast bulb were used to bend it into contact. Clamps were set with little blocks at each bulkhead.
We're busy this summer and it's hard to get modeling time.
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Jul 25, 2016, 10:40 PM
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bumkin and bowsprit

Here's the deck fillet and installation of bumkin and the bowsprit. My wife's little hobby rasps of various shapes are working nicely on making things fit.
The gunnels still need their basswood strips.
Jul 30, 2016, 02:24 AM
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Hi guys. just wondering about the spacings for the drawn on deck planks and what was used to draw them on the deck. sharpie? pencil? ballpoint pen?
Looking great people and mine is coming along nicely when i have to the time to get a bit done
Jul 30, 2016, 10:45 AM
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Hi Zumity, I made the planks 1/4-inch with a Sharpie. The Minwax Wood Hardener applied removed and smeared some of the ink, not too badly.
Jul 30, 2016, 11:51 AM
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Mask top of hull sides

If I'd masked the gunnels down to the bulkhead inside and out it would have saved a lot of scraping to attach the gunnel strips and glue the deck with fillets.
Jul 30, 2016, 07:57 PM
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Thanks mate! your vessel is coming along nicely! looking forward to seeing her maiden voyage
Jul 31, 2016, 09:16 PM
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cleats for sheets

Three Popsicle sticks were laminated, drilled, and fashioned into cleats. A bit blocky. My father-in-law's tiny round rasps were nice to use. 2-56 hardware will bolt them down and hopefully keep them from splitting.
Finally the gunnel strips were re-applied after scraping down to bare wood.
Aug 03, 2016, 12:37 PM
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installing quarter bitts

These 1/2-inch square bitts were shaped with extra length and sealed.
To position the bitts I made a simple jig from a plywood scrap, two 1/4-inch pieces, and another piece of plywood. The plate sits on the bumkin. The 1/4 pieces are parallel at the same width as between the holes in the deck. The last piece of ply sets the plate leaning slightly back from square to the bumkin.
The bitts were roughly shaped at the bottom to fit the hull. They were then slid down the jig until they touched the hull and clamped in place. The plate was marked at their tops. The port side bitt was then shortened to match the starboard one. PC-7 epoxy paste was globbed onto the bottoms of the bitts and the assembly was slid into place. The jigged assembly was taped in place for the epoxy to set.
Some PC-7 will be used to seal the bitts to the deck surface.
Oops, I forgot the 1/8-inch round brass in the tops.
Aug 06, 2016, 10:24 PM
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quarter-mile range check on FlySky i6 radio

I want to try this FlySky i6 radio before setting sail in IRENE.
I want to try it in my Victoria. I've mounted the receiver in its hull toward the front of the radio access area. To position the antennas inside the hull I glued plastic tubes to the underside of the deck along the front edge of the access hole and along the port side of the hole. The antennas then were slipped into the tubes just like in my IRENE. In both boats they are positioned at right angles to each other and in the horizontal plane.
Checking the Victoria I bicycled away with the transmitter and phone so my wife could report the boat's control activity. At a quarter mile response was perfect. I didn't try further because this was much farther than I could visually control a boat!
Now I can try the Victoria on a small pond to see how it works on the water.
Aug 10, 2016, 09:34 PM
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Pin rails attachment?

Surely there's a very nifty means of securing the pin rails to the shrouds. Also, creating eye splices looks way beyond me.
Aug 15, 2016, 01:46 PM
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Securing pin rails / Eye splices

Hi Paul & All, Here's how I keep the pin rails in place. With a short piece of twine (same as shrouds) I tie a clove hitch around the shroud above and below the pin rail. I make the clove hitch really secure with a drop or two of super glue (ca) and trim the ends off close. I try not to get the glue on the pin rail so that the shroud remains free to turn. This is helpful as the finished shroud length can be fine tuned by twisting or untwisting the shroud.
Eye splices in the 3 strand twine are a bit tedious, but doable. Good lighting makes it much easier for me. There are tutorials on youtube, and I suggest first practicing with larger 3 strand line (such as 1/4") if you haven't done this before. For practice, natural ropes such as manila or hemp or sisal are easier to work with than nylon or polypropylene. The seine twine is easy because it is tarred and doesn't lose its' lay.
If you really don't want to tackle the eye splicing, here is an alternative. Simply double back the twine and tie 2 or 3 seizings of thread. Use a sturdy thread such as polyester upholstery thread. White or tan colored thread make it easier to see your work. Secure with a bit of super glue (ca). Hope this is helpful, Cheers, ...Gary
Aug 21, 2016, 09:48 PM
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end of lead work, end of woodwork !

I started hull construction with 30-minute-setting and 5-minute epoxies.
Never again! The glue turned gummy and clogged sandpaper and other abrasives.
PC-7 epoxy paste worked much better. You have hours to work it. You can set it in the evening, come back in the morning when it's a bit soft and carve away what you like with a knife. After 24 hours it sands easily, coming off powdery. Various wood rasps work it very nicely. It's what I used to attach the basswood gunnel strips and build up fillets at the edges of the deck. The tops of the gunnels were rough and a layer of PC-7 made them easy to smooth out and round.
When I learn more about shaping it with alcohol there will be no stopping me

After trouble with twist bits clogging while drilling the lead ballast bulbs I needed to inset the screw heads and nuts. WELL, common and not very sharp wood spade bits size 7/8 and 5/8 cut the lead nicely at very slow speed. The bits even stayed nicely centered on the 1/4-inch holes.
Ordinary 1/4-inch round headed screws and blind nuts were chosen. The side with the 7/8 inset was re-drilled to 19/64 to fit the blind nuts. Four small holes were then drilled for the tangs on each blind nut. With the screw drawing the nut into the lead I beat on them with a flat punch to set them in place.

Needing to lighten the lead bulb halves a couple of pounds meant lots of elbow grease. The auto body file cut pretty well but clogged quickly. Wood rasps also clogged. A Stanley Surform 6-inch rasp cut quickly without clogging at all.
Aug 21, 2016, 09:57 PM
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floating at last!

The boat-minus-ballast weighs about 12.6 pounds. Guessing another pound of sails, batteries, rigging, cameras, etc. makes 13.6 leaving 11.4 pounds for the ballast. My bulb came out at 11.1 pounds. I plan to cover the lead with PC-7 and paint it and the fin. Maybe that will add a couple of ounces.

With ballast attached it was off to the pond! My Victoria had some nice sailing before the wind died. Then IRENE was placed in the calm pond. She's masked for painting the gunnels. The waterline was marked on the hull. She's floating a bit high and should set down a bit closer to the waterline shown on the plans.
Hopefully we'll be sailing on Pearl Lake when the aspens turn the mountainsides bright yellow!
Aug 22, 2016, 12:17 AM
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Floating !

Congratulations Paul, she's floating! You did a nice job on the lead bulb. Sorry the casting came out heavy and you had to remove quite a bit, I'll have to re-visit that mold sketch I sent you. Happily the fore & aft trim appears about right. I'll suggest painting the "bottom paint" line at least about 1/4" above the actual float line. This will give you a visible line to see and makes her appear "light" on the water. She's looking good, and I'm looking forward to seeing her under sail. Cheers...Gary
Aug 27, 2016, 04:10 AM
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Some pictures of the progress of my build of the "Col-Maur"

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Description: The beginning....

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Description: Starting to take shape!

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Description: Really showing her lines....

The beginnings of the building of the "Col-Maur".

Her name is in honour of my late Mother and Father.

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