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This thread is privately moderated by bigtruck169, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Nov 17, 2015, 01:43 PM
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brushless convertion for nitro 1/8 ofna LX buggy


How to Waterproof an ESC
RC ADVENTURES - Waterproof an ESC - TEKIN FXR Model (11 min 8 sec)



how to pick brushless car motor https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing


HPI Trophy Flux Buggy motor mount
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...VwsaAl0J8P8HAQ


http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...=103237&page=2
Turnigy TrackStar 4068 2560KV 1/8th Brushless Motor - $41 https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23592
Turnigy TrackStar 150A 1/8th Scale Brushless -$82 https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...grammable.html
Turnigy 5000mAh 4S 20C Lipo Pack
Spur 51T, Pinion 19T

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/p...ert.cfm?id=467

using EMaxx motor plate for $9

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...Ofna_Ultra_GTP
motor mount is $45, direct fit.

Lx2e/ Lx1e, GTP2e share almost same part to ULTRA LX models
30675 - motor mount - $29.95
30694 - motor 1900kv 5mm shaft - $120
30665 - Pinion 14 teeth - $13
30120 - Spur 44 teeth - $12
30695 - ESC 90A - $220
30662 - Ofna Battery case/ receiver box kit - no price

For Lx2e, stock is 13 pinion, 55 spur

Novak 6.5 conversion 5000mah 3s - run 20 mins

HK TrackStar 150A 8th scale ( 4S) - $76.65
Turnigy 8th scale 4pole 2100kv (5s) - $39.75

parking lot anyway to get a clean run @ 18/54 ( pinion/Spur). The best I could get with that gearing was 63mph ( 4s with this motor)
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=19114

another coverted buggy http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/arc...?t-151146.html

motor mount
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OFN40936-409...EAAOSw~bFWMRfG


Anything between 1700kv - 2100kv motor is enough for a 1/8 buggy. At the moment Tekin, Castle and LRP are pretty much on back order at most places. Viper make a ESC called a Vtx8 which has been getting some really good feedback.


good 8th scale motor -Turnigy 1/8th Scale 4 Pole Brushless Motor - 2100KV (US Warehouse)
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arehouse_.html

If you're racing indoors it's a great setup. If you're running outdoors you might want to go a little higher KV on the motor, for instance the 2000kv that HW sells.

I use a Savox 1256TG servo for mine. It's not super fast, but it has a ton of torque and when it comes to 8th scale, that's what I prefer. I also used to use an XP DS1313 servo and that was very good as well. Just two options you can check out.
__________________
Associated RC8.2e - HW 4274 1800kv - HW SCT Pro 120a ESC


For 4S here is another vote for a 1900kv. The Tekin and the Turnigy Trackstar sensored motors are some of the best I've ever used. The Tekin costs right at three times as much as the Turnigy and by doing back to back tests they performed identically.

I'm a strong advocate for the Turnigy Trackstar motors. I run their 1900kv in my buggies and their 2100kv in my truggies. EVERYONE that I let wheel my vehicles can't believe it's a $50 motor in it. They are super smooth and yet very powerful as well. They get great run time and don't heat up much at all.

1900KV:

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...or_1900KV.html

2100KV:

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...or_2100KV.html

Don't know why you'd need more power, as the 1900Kv is plenty for my outdoor, medium sized 8th scale track.

tekin 2050kv on 4s and is more then enough. most guys run 1900kv motors on 4s.

The tekin t8 line is an excellent valu considering sensored 4 pole novak motors are almost 300 and you can find used tekins for $100 almost evry day on the sale forum. I use the 1700 kv but run on a smll track.

4s (14.8v) you'll want to be around 1800kv-2200kv max, any higher Kv and I would drop voltage. Typical 2s config is 4000kv. The tekin buggy motor several choices in that kv range but I would suggest the 1800-1900 range.

a 550 4-pole motor will work for 4x4 1/10 or 1/8 buggy with out issues. I have a losi scte RTR 2800kv motor on 3s lipo in one of my buggies... the thing RIPS So ya there are a few 550 4000kv motors out there (36mm x 60mm-80mm)

any 550 will bolt up, 36mm fits fine in most 1/8 buggies, but the 1512 typical 1/8 buggy motor is the larger 40 to 42mm.

Keep in mind if it's not a 4-pole 550 it's not going to last..

4pole would be the only thing that would be best other then a 1/8 motor itself

1900Kv t8 in 4s, 1550kv in 5s or 1400kv in 6s (the ideal would be a 1250kv motor though)

1900 16.8 31920
1550 21 32550
1250 25.2 31500

Whats the difference in performance from the tekin 1900kv to the 2050? I know its a delta wind compared to a y wind but is it more power and less torque or what?
More rpm out of the 2050kv and more torque from the 1900kv. I run on an outdoor 80x 180 track so i can use the rpm. But dont get me wrong 2050kv has more torque then you will ever need. Most people dial it down so they dont get so much wheel spin.

1900kv is the best all around motor for 4s

Why no clutch and why 1900 better?
One of the main advantages, IMO, with ebuggies is not having to use a clutch. It's pretty much there on nitro buggies because the engine would stall without it. All a clutch will do is limit your punch which would be a detrement on high bite tracks where you 180 a turn an imediately hit a tripple after the apex and other such situations. If you have having problems with wheels spin, you can program that out.

As for the motor, 1900 is a great all-around point for racing. Great top end and loads of punch. Much more kv will not be useful on many tracks and will only make your electronics hotter and battery drain faster. I know people running up to 2200kv on 4S, but the guys winning are using 1700-1900.

Because it's a perfect compromise. As said the guys winning run 1700 and 1900kv but with a 1700kv yu'll have to gear it higher and could be near the temp limit on a big track on an hot day. I have a 1400kv 5S setup that reaches about the same rpm than a 1700 in 4S and I love this combination but I raced it on a very hot day and I'm sure my temps would have been cooler with a 1550kv lower geared. If you live in a place where it can get hot, go for a 1900 if you don't I would take the 1700 which is way enough power

2250kv is probably more motor than you want, unless you're running a really big track.

There is more to weigh than cost of the ESC/motor alone. Using a Tekin means you could get away with smaller/cheaper battery packs, etc.

I am running an RX8/1900kv combo in my 9E and it has plenty of speed and a ton of power. I was running a 16T pinion, but now with the 208 software I'm running a 15T with some timing boost and I get the same or slightly better performance, as well as longer runtimes (about 20% better).

For a quick and dirty comparison...

Multiply the dispalcement by 2000 and that is about how many watts you will want for more than decent performance.

.40 x 2 = .8

.8x1000 = 800 watts

800 watts is right between 4s and 5s lipo battery territory.

By those numbers a .049 motor is about...

90 watts - easily done with 3s and still "do-able" on 2s


hi guys, i have tried this stuff(connecting a heli motor to rc cars) few days ago, this is the cheaper way of getting a car motor. i think that it should work but only if u r using a rc car esc. the mistake that i made was, i used a heli esc which only allowed me to run my brushless only in 1 direction. this will give u full throttle but no change in direction.

i got the castle 2650 and mmm. was retarted fast with a 4s pack. kinda uncontrollable. even with the puch down it was still to much on even big tracks. changed out to a 2200, was alot better but still to much. the 1900 with a 4s is nice. with the 2650 i could go down the straight away half throttle and smash the throttle and bring the front tires off the ground...jmo, got with a 1900

I just jumped onboard with a 1/8 E-Buggy afer watching and driving a few for so long. After much research and asking team/manufacturer reps, I chose a 1900Kv motor (Tekin RX8/1900Kv). I use a 15t pinion/45t spur and it has more than enough for any track size. Would recommend a 4S battery with as high mAh and Burst rate as you can afford. Picked up a reasonable 6400,70c pack for under $200 new and can run for about 15 minutes without worry to any of the electronics. Hope this is helpful and your able to hit the track soon.

lower kv on more Volts = less heat if geared for the same speed as more kv with less Volts.

I am very happy with 1700kv motor on 5S.
4S is too much heat to worry about
6S can stress speed controls during braking

The difference between an outrunner and a geared inrunner assuming equal Kv and power is w.r.t efficiency marginal.
The innrunner has due to the more higher Kv less R. The efficiency is slightly better compared to a similar outrunner.
The gearbox needed for the inrunner has an efficiency of about 96% (a good gearbox). So the advantage of a geared inrunner
is only slightly better.

The difference betwenn inrunner/outrunner is more a difference between motor sizing and price. The diameter
of a outrunner is larger, but length is shorter compared with a similar geared inrunner.

I'm flying gliders with narrow fuselages. In that case an outrunner normaly will not fit. So I'm using inrunner with
either a maxon 4.4:1 gearbox or Kontronik inrunner with gearbox. The next important fact is the Kv of the drive.
Flying powered gliders needs an other setup as motor planes. Gliders usually needs larger props with less pitch compared to
motor modells. Even with outrunners it is hard to find one with low Kv suitable for my gliders. So for powered gliders with narrow fuselage
an inrunner with gearbox is the better choice.

Sure the price for a good gearbox is high, so I use for my
motor modells normally an outrunner, if motor diameter is not an issue.

RC cars either have a tranny or center diff to drop the motor rpms to a useable level and multiply the torque- typical inrunner will be spinning around 30-50,000rpms, obviously reduced at the tranny and diffs until it gets to a usable speed at the wheels. If one were to use an outrunner, they typically only spin around... hmm, 5-15,000rpms at most say? That means your wheel speed would be.... slow.

The way around this problem is to use a direct-to-diff setup that replaces the whole tranny/ CD unit with just the motor, with the props shafts/ center dog bones connected directly to the shafts at eother end of the motor.

Problem is you have no way of adjusting the gearing to fine tune your speed and such,- the only thing you can do is use higher or lower voltage, or change the tire size. This isnt isnt ideal as it can out you outside your motors optimum rpm range, or your escs voltage range etc etc.

Another issue is torque. Inrunners come in 3 sizes essentially- Small, Large and XLarge- quite straight forward to choose or advise the size required for any given application. Outrunners come in about 3 zillion sizes, including different length and diameters, and numerous pole counts & shaft sizes.

Thee are a few gurus who use outrunners in their trucks that I know (of), and it took them alot of trial and error to get their vehciles running just right; even then the way an outrunner works isnt ideal for ground based trucks- too much torque for the diffs/ bearings after a while, and start up is often rough when getting the truck moving intially.

Outrunners work well in planes and helis as they have the desired rpm range and have no real load at startup, only the weight of the prop/ rotor to turn over, though there are a few outrunners being used in 1/5 scale trucks, but its very much a thing for the highly specialized and experienced R/Cers.

The can, or half of it anyway, is attached to the shaft that rotates- since the magnets have to be around the stator in an outrunner design there isnt much of a way around it. Unless that is you get a hybrid inrunner/ outrunner design like the Axial 600 seires motors, but they have been proven not to work all that well in ground based vehicles, unless you rewind them but thats more hassle than its worth.

Another reason for not using an outrunner is because of the centrifugal forces exerted on the magnets- the further away from centre you get the greater the torque and pressure; if you had an outrunner spinning fast enough, then it would probably tear itself apart.

Also, its about the lack of adjustment like I said- no way to change your gearing to tweak your speed, you're pretty much stuck unless you increase or decrease voltage, but that can lead to a lack of power and punch at the wheels, plus there is the drivetrain shock (no way to fit a slipper clutch or center diff).

Inrunners work well in ground based r/c, and given the ~90% efficiency, no real need to find something better, because at present there isnt...

DO NOT RUN ANYTHING LOWER THAN 4S in a truggy.. PERIOD - ASKING FOR HUGE ISSUES.

The redline motor will work fine w/ the MMM, again run at 4s and I wouldn't run anything smaller than 4s 5000mAH 60c or you will have issues w/ your lipo's a 6500mAH pack would be much better suited for the larger truggy, especially if you plan on racing. Do not run that 2650kv motor, asking for issues and if you do still run on 4s lipo and gear it as low as possible 11 or 12t and turn down the radio as needed. That motor is just a little too hot for a truggy, the size can work if you drive smooth, I run the 1800kv version on 4s all the time and it stays ok and would even work on 5s but that 2650 is more of a buggy motor where you could get away with a 3s pack.

For basic setup, use the nitro setup sheet online and just add about 5-10wt on the oils and add about 3-5k to the center diff, the rest just keep the same.



Normally Id suggest a 6500mAH pack for 4s, 5k pack for 5, or a 4k pack for 6s for truggy's anyway.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...uggestion.html
Last edited by bigtruck169; May 05, 2016 at 11:53 AM.
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