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Nov 30, 2018, 10:16 PM
Treehouse is Better.
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
I am guessing the speed controller for the gyro is what went bad? It's such a unique piece of equipment, I don't know where to begin to find a replacement.

Maybe.....and I'm just spitballing....it might be possible to cobble any ESC to the gyro and somehow fool it into running at full throttle?

...since the gyro runs at 12,000 RPMS, any revolutions acheived is a win.

I admit...I'm talking out my ass....but it is something I would be trying with nothing to lose at that point. The gyro itself is probably not the part at fault as my best guess.
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Nov 30, 2018, 10:20 PM
Treehouse is Better.
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmincin
Hobby King has the entire rear wheel assembly (looks like maybe the gryo too) for $77.26 now. Looks like it used to be about $110 before.

If you do buy a replacement wheel, I would be interested in purchasing your old defective one. Or the whole bike if you don't want to spend the money to get it back up and running. I've been looking for a defective rear wheel gyro for a while...
Wow! Nice find! And it includes the ESC!

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/rear-whe...otorcycle.html
Dec 01, 2018, 02:12 PM
Registered User
seeingeyegod's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Flynow
I am guessing the speed controller for the gyro is what went bad? It's such a unique piece of equipment, I don't know where to begin to find a replacement.

Maybe.....and I'm just spitballing....it might be possible to cobble any ESC to the gyro and somehow fool it into running at full throttle?

...since the gyro runs at 12,000 RPMS, any revolutions acheived is a win.

I admit...I'm talking out my ass....but it is something I would be trying with nothing to lose at that point. The gyro itself is probably not the part at fault as my best guess.
I think its the gyro on mine that is bad, the ESC still lights up and everything, and occasionally the gyro will start, but always stops again before reaching full speed. It's either the gyro or bad contact with the metal brackets.
Dec 01, 2018, 03:03 PM
Treehouse is Better.
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
There has to be someway to improve the electrical contacts?
Dec 06, 2018, 01:04 PM
Registered User
How do you switch between LiPo and NiMh mode on the ESC? I have the documentation for the 60amp Leopard V2 ESC, but it doesn't state anything about switching from LiPo to NiMh mode or vise versa. It just has calibration instructions.

Normally, ESC's have a LiPo mode selection, and if this one doesn't; how in the world is the ESC distinguishing between the two battery types?
Dec 06, 2018, 01:21 PM
Registered User
seeingeyegod's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo Rider
How do you switch between LiPo and NiMh mode on the ESC? I have the documentation for the 60amp Leopard V2 ESC, but it doesn't state anything about switching from LiPo to NiMh mode or vise versa. It just has calibration instructions.

Normally, ESC's have a LiPo mode selection, and if this one doesn't; how in the world is the ESC distinguishing between the two battery types?
You don't have to do anything. Just plug and go. The ESC doesn't care what kind of battery is giving it it's volts, but I'm pretty sure it does have a voltage cut so as not to kill LiPo by over draining them.
Dec 06, 2018, 01:38 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by seeingeyegod
You don't have to do anything. Just plug and go. The ESC doesn't care what kind of battery is giving it it's volts, but I'm pretty sure it does have a voltage cut so as not to kill LiPo by over draining them.

Thank you for your fast reply. I have the SR5 on the way and will be going over it soon.
I have read over this entire thread and just kept finding it unbelievable that it could run up to a 3s LiPo battery considering it comes with a 7.2v stock NiMh battery to begin with.

The documentation for the ESC states that it can handle up to 12.6v and that should've settled it for me; but I'm very cautiously skeptical when it comes to documentation articles for ESC's and motors.

Thanks again for your verification on the ESC capabilities.
Dec 06, 2018, 03:03 PM
Treehouse is Better.
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo Rider
How do you switch between LiPo and NiMh mode on the ESC? I have the documentation for the 60amp Leopard V2 ESC, but it doesn't state anything about switching from LiPo to NiMh mode or vise versa. It just has calibration instructions.

Normally, ESC's have a LiPo mode selection, and if this one doesn't; how in the world is the ESC distinguishing between the two battery types?
The only function of a lipo mode selection is only raising it's Low Voltage Cutoff threshold. Which I never liked as I stop any plane or truck/bike run at 3.8v/cell....well above the LVC and increases lipo life.

RC trucks are a bit tricky to time a lipo run, but after the first run, I have a time to set for future runs.

I am still running mine on the NiMh at the present time anyway....but will probably try some 2s and 3s lipos when I get my track cut.
Dec 06, 2018, 04:17 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Flynow
The only function of a lipo mode selection is only raising it's Low Voltage Cutoff threshold. Which I never liked as I stop any plane or truck/bike run at 3.8v/cell....well above the LVC and increases lipo life.

RC trucks are a bit tricky to time a lipo run, but after the first run, I have a time to set for future runs.

I am still running mine on the NiMh at the present time anyway....but will probably try some 2s and 3s lipos when I get my track cut.

The highest I can set it is 3.5v/cell; but like you, I stop well before the RC decides to start calling it quits. I've gotten so good with it now, I really never have to use the storage function on my Hi-Tec 400w charger because my cells are usually all 3.8v resting and the charger spits out the "No need charge" message if I try to put them in storage. I still always plug the balance lead in just to confirm for sure.

I still have SMC's from 5 years ago that are in perfect health because I take the time to cycle them even when not using them for 6 months or so.

The highest concern I have with this SR5 bike is the availability of parts. I have saved quite a few links from this thread alone that still work. That is rare that a link from 2 years ago will still be valid.

I'm fairly good with RC's and have fabricated many of my own parts using a jewel saw, grinder, and a lathe; but never a 3D printer yet.

I look forward to the challenges this type of RC will present, and hope that I don't get a dud straight out of the box. The last three RC's I have bought in the last two years have been D.O.A. units and it is getting kind of old to tell you the truth. My latest was the Blade 230S helicopter, and that took them two units to finally get me one that works.
Dec 06, 2018, 04:24 PM
Treehouse is Better.
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
So far Hobby King has a nice selection of spare parts for this bike.

I still use lipos over 10 years old that charge to 4.2 and give me full flight time and land at a perfect 3.8 balanced. I don't bother cycling them...I have too many to waste 3 days on a cycle maintenance...I have like 10 toolboxes of them n all sizes....wish I didn't have so many damn planes that need so many different size lipos.

My stash of Nimh need more regular cycling though....I'll charge on up and get 2 mnutes of run time....recharge and it's a little better.....then by the 3rd time, it's back. That's why I switched most of my ground vehicles to BL and lipo....got tired of charging for an hour just to find the battery needs cycling. Lipo is 35 minutes charge, and you know what you got!
Dec 06, 2018, 04:58 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Flynow
So far Hobby King has a nice selection of spare parts for this bike.

I still use lipos over 10 years old that charge to 4.2 and give me full flight time and land at a perfect 3.8 balanced. I don't bother cycling them...I have too many to waste 3 days on a cycle maintenance...I have like 10 toolboxes of them n all sizes....wish I didn't have so many damn planes that need so many different size lipos.

My stash of Nimh need more regular cycling though....I'll charge on up and get 2 mnutes of run time....recharge and it's a little better.....then by the 3rd time, it's back. That's why I switched most of my ground vehicles to BL and lipo....got tired of charging for an hour just to find the battery needs cycling. Lipo is 35 minutes charge, and you know what you got!

That reminds me, I saw earlier in the thread that you can get a Toro Program Card for the ESC, which makes it easier than trying to use the transmitter to answer "yes or no" questions by a series of beeps from the esc or receiver. I remember I tried programming an ESC with the transmitter and ended up having everything wrong one time on another RC.

I also remember reading about someone in this thread that their gyro wasn't working and he just thought the bike was that hard to control. I guess he got fairly good at using it without the gyro. I'll betcha he's a professional when he got a working gyro! .
Dec 06, 2018, 06:11 PM
Treehouse is Better.
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
I ran a whole first battery with no gyro....it was a challenge....lol.

Once I got the gyro spinning for the second run the difference was staggering. A LOT less chasing a downed bike.

I see no need to reprogram the ESC other than maybe dialing down the gyro ...maybe.

Be sure to calibrate your tx to the ESC the first time....easy to do.
Dec 06, 2018, 11:36 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Flynow
Be sure to calibrate your tx to the ESC the first time....easy to do.

Yes, I was just going to ask you about whether or not the unit needed calibration out of the box. I usually calibrate even if the factory claims they did it in the assembly process.

The thing is, calibrating out of natural habit is a good thing, right up until I thought I knew how to calibrate a helicopter. Turns out, that I didn't realize I had to be in a certain flight mode for the calibration to take effect. Finally got that sorted. I try focusing all of my attention on one RC at a time so as to not mix up technical procedures that are pertinent to each individually.

A lot of the replacement parts for the SR5 are back ordered or unavailable on the suggested site in this thread. Ebay has a lot of them, but they are shipped from overseas and I see I'll have to become somewhat of a prediction expert as to what is going to need replaced most often. The wait could be as long as six weeks out for something as simple as a tire replacement or a gyro board.

Good grief! - What have I gotten myself into now?
Dec 06, 2018, 11:46 PM
Treehouse is Better.
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
The manual clearly lays out how to calibrate the tx/ESC and recommends the step.

I get trying to focus your attention to one toy, but in the end it all gets muddled...just as well..if something breaks on one toy, you have others to run in the meantime.

I have a lot of planes, so I end up writing what lipo they take on the inside of the canopy so I remember what to charge for it...lol

Last I looked Hobby King had many of the spare parts in stock. Best to order a spare chain now off eBay since that supposedly is the weakest link...pardon the pun. Much like ordering a spare prop for a plane...the odds on favorite of the first part to get damaged.

Best to just enjoy the toys and not stress about what might go wrong...that takes all the fun out of them.
Dec 07, 2018, 12:22 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Flynow
I get trying to focus your attention to one toy, but in the end it all gets muddled...just as well..if something breaks on one toy, you have others to run in the meantime.

Hey, it clearly states in every single manual I have for my RC's, that they are not toys and have high powered systems that are dangerous to anyone under 14 years of age without adult supervision.

Well, that is how I justify being a big kid I guess! They never had this kind of stuff when I was growing up, and we were most likely playing yard darts or bad mitten! The RC's back then couldn't even turn unless they were moving forward and usually didn't have any type of ground clearance.


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