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Oct 29, 2015, 02:21 PM

Step 31: Lower Rudder


Note servo, linkage and horn location in photos. Offset the servo so as to allow room for the spacer required for eventual frame mating to the floor (see step #37). I embed the servo in the Depron by cutting the servo shape out of the foam. After checking the servo center and mounting the control arm, I glue the servo in position with CA. The pushrod is made from 3/32 carbon fiber rod with the Parkzone adjustable clevis from the flap hardware package at one end and the z bend from the clevis at the other. I use a carbon tube sleeve to hold the clevis and z bends to the rod and then use thin CA to permanently glue the fittings together. I file some rough spots on the metal parts to insure a good bond with the CA.

I've included photos from my latest build. Note lead weight to achieve proper balance.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Oct 18, 2016 at 10:21 AM.
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Oct 29, 2015, 02:22 PM

Step 32: Elevators


Note servo, linkage and horn locations. I embed the servo in the Depron by cutting the servo shape out of the foam. I glue the servo in position with CA after checking the servo center and mounting the control arm. I use DuBro Micro Pushrods for this linkage. Be sure to rough up the outer surface of the pushrod sheath to allow the 5 minute epoxy to bond. I used the clevis to ease assembly and disassembly for travel. You can use the materials from DuBro to complete the servo and horn connections if you like. I used a Z bend at the servo and silver soldered the clevis rod to the push rod using a small piece of scrap brass tube. I then use T-Pins to hold the sheath in position as the 5 minute epoxy cures.

I've adjusted the location of the battery and side servos in my latest build (painted house pictures). These locations significantly reduce the amount of ballast required to balance.

For battery mounting, I cut a rectangular shaped hole in the Depron side that matches my battery dimensions. On the house outside, I glued a 5.75" x 1.5" x 1/16" ply mounting plate with slots cut for battery straps.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Oct 18, 2016 at 10:51 AM.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:23 PM

Step 33: Upper Rudder (Skip for Now)


This linkage is completed once the quad frame is mounted in the Doghouse. The servo is attached to the quad frame in Step 28 and a 3/32 inch CF push rod is made in the same fashion as for the lower rudder in Step 31. Note the addition of a stabilizing arm from the Center Square to the horizontal stabilizer. I used some carbon fiber strip but 3/32 rod will work as well. As power is added to the quad the frame flexes and the distance to the stabilizer from the frame changes. The stabilizing arm minimizes the distance changes. The stabilizing arm must be securely anchored at both ends with 5 minute epoxy.

Here is the servo linkage in my latest build (painted photo). Note stabilizing strip/rod from back of receiver mount to stabilizer.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Oct 18, 2016 at 10:29 AM.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:25 PM

Step 34: Attaching the Receiver to the Controller


Before performing this step, flash and setup the KK Controller. Go to Step 49.

This is where you decide if the House will be setup to fly like a plane or a quad. If you have a plane background go with the plane setup and the quad flyers should go with quad setup. Please note that the KK controller is mounted upside down with the 4 programming buttons toward the top of the frame and house. I use the KK Mini flashed with the latest Steveis firmware (FW) release. I have used the KK 2.1.5 with the same FW and they both fly the same. In the picture I use two 3 inch male/male connectors to connect the receiver and controller. Plus and minus are common across all receiver plug pins (electronically they are connected) and power from the receiver is transferred to the controller to power its brain. The lower connector connects the minus (black), the plus (red) and the throttle signal between the receiver and the controller. The upper connector connects the receiver aileron, elevator and rudder signals between the receiver and the controller. Note that in my airplane setup I twist the connector cable 180 degrees so that the receiver aileron signal (black) attaches to the controller rudder input and the receiver rudder signal (white) attaches to the controller aileron input. The red wire connects receiver elevator signal to controller elevator input. For quad pilots, do not twist this connection; attach aileron to aileron and rudder to rudder. Note, plane pilots will reverse aileron travel in the transmitter later in this log.

There is a great thread for the KK 2.1 series of controllers in rcgroups; THE NEW KK2.1 & KK2.1.5 FC Owners Thread. You will need to flash your board with Steveis Firmware . The thread is a great help or find a friend to do it for you. Here is a link to the thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2061620.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Nov 02, 2015 at 09:09 AM.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:27 PM

Step 35: Controller and Receiver Mounting


The receiver and controller are mounted to the frame with double sided foam tape. I use a little dab of CA on the wood connection side to insure the controller and receiver do not come loose. The controller is mounted with the 4 buttons to the top of the frame (Doghouse). I zip tie around the two connectors at the controller board to secure them together.

You can see in the picture the power from one of the BECs goes to the bind plug pins on the receiver. The receiver is already bound and I use the negative and positive of this receiver plug location to power the receiver and as mentioned in Step 34 the brains of the controller.

On the right side of the controller I have installed four servo extensions. I pulled the red pins from each plug. A second 5 amp BEC powers the servos only. The red power out from the #2 BEC is soldered to the four servo red wires. The black power out wire from the #2 BEC is soldered to the four servo black wires and to at least two of the black pins on the servo connectors to the controller. I use two for redundancy (safety).
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Nov 02, 2015 at 09:11 AM.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:30 PM

Step 36: Quad Build Out


Study the pictures closely. Note that the controller programming buttons are to the top of the frame and Doghouse. The controller flies upside down in level flight.

Solder the bullet connectors that came with the motors to the ESCs. Attach the four ESCs and two BECs to the frame as shown using double sided foam tape. Note I use the plus (+) quad setup for the KK Controller board.

Plug the bottom motor ESC into controller position 1, the left motor ESC (looking from the front) into position 2, the top to position 3 and the right motor ESC into position 4. The ground side (black wire) of each plug goes to the outside edge of the board.

The servo extensions wired in Step 35 go to the following servos; Position 5 is upper rudder, position 6 is lower rudder, position 7 is left elevator (looking from the front) and position 8 is the right elevator.

It is now time to solder the main power bus together. This is the hardest part of the build and a cold solder joint will be bad, very very bad. Get help if you need it. I use 12 AWG wire to run from each battery location at the two ends of the frame’s horizontal cross member to the central connection point on the lower back side of the center square. To help hold things together while soldering I use single copper wire strands from heavier multi strand wire. The challenge is to solder the 4 red ESC power input wires, the two red BEC power input wires and the two red 12 AWG battery wires together in a nice looking joint. Then do the same for all the black wires. Make sure to use insulating tape or heat shrink tubing to protect from shorts. Get help if you need it.

At this point the wiring is almost complete with the exception of three servos. Assuming the KK board is setup per the plus (+) setup instruction in the KK Thread it is a good time to check motor rotation (no props!!!). Make sure all loose wires are zip tied out of the way and attach a battery to the power bus. Arm the board by moving the appropriate stick (aileron left if setup as an airplane). No smoke…. Good. Now add a little power. When looking from the front, the top and lower motors should spin clockwise and the left and right should pin counter clockwise. Swap two of the three connectors on the motors if they spin incorrectly. Check the spin again. Now zip tie the ESCs, BECs and wires to the frame.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Nov 02, 2015 at 09:14 AM.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:32 PM

Step 37: Quad House Integration


Cut a 1.5 inch piece of scrap square dowel. Mark the center of the front floor leading edge. Cut away the Depron behind the dowel to fit this 1.5 inch long, ľ inch wide spacer. Glue in place with 5 minute epoxy.
The pictures show my transportable Doghouse that uses screws to connect the quad to the house. Here is how I would permanently glue the frame to the house.

Cut 3 quarter inch square holes behind the leading edge dowels. The floor hole should be centered and behind the spacer. Set the frame in the floor hole and then use the frame to mark the positions of the two side holes behind the leading edges. Set the frame in place and see if everything looks right. If so, remove the frame and rough the CF square tubes at the four ends with150 grit. Cut three triangle mounting gussets from 5mm ply. They should be right triangles with sides of 1 inch. Make a 5mm square cutout in the center of the hypotenuse. This will fit around the carbon square tube when you glue the hypotenuse to the leading edge. At the three mounting locations make a cutout the shape of the triangle in the Depron.

Mix some slow cure epoxy and glue the frame into the house. The hypotenuse of the three triangle gussets will be glued to the leading edge dowel around the carbon tube (note the lower gusset will be glued to the 5mm spacer that is glued to the dowel). The back sides of each triangle to the Depron. Let cure for 24 hours.

Integrate the top arm to the house with gussets that glue the arm to the carbon fiber roof stiffeners.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Oct 18, 2016 at 10:37 AM.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:37 PM

Step 38: Connect Servos to Servo Extensions


I used connectors to connect the 3 house servos to the controller/frame. Since yours will not come apart, I recommend soldering a solid link from the servo to the controller; less plugs, more reliability. Cut the plug end off the servo and the plug end off the corresponding servo extension (coming from the controller). Solder in 26AWG servo wire between the controller extension and the servo. Do this for the two side mounted servos and lower rudder servo.

Note new battery and servo locations.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Oct 18, 2016 at 10:39 AM.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:39 PM

Step 39: Upper Rudder Control Linkage


Do Step 33.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:40 PM

Step 40: Snoopy Carving Begins


Collect your carving tools. I have found the razor saw and Dremel, with sanding drum and routing tool, to be the most help. Here are some of the other tools I use.

As a bonus, you can do Woodstock too. Here are some pictures of my carving.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Oct 27, 2016 at 08:43 PM.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:42 PM

Step 41: Side Profile


Get your block of 1 pound density polystyrene and trace the side profile on the block. In the picture, I have my first big Snoopy and my smaller side and back profile paper outlines to carve the smaller Snoopy. The pdf attached provides these profiles. Cut the side silhouette all the way through the block. I tried this freehand with my hotwire and did not like my result, but made do.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Nov 02, 2015 at 09:20 AM.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:44 PM

Step 42: Back Profile


Trace the back profile on the block. Cut the back silhouette all the way to the front. I did this with the razor saw and was pleased with the result.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:45 PM

Step 43: Basic Head Shaping


Carve some of the edges off the head with the razor saw. Just attack stuff you know needs to go.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:46 PM

Step 44: Carving Details


Study the pictures attached. I do this all slowly to avoid the costly error. I draw on the foam some guidelines to help in the carving. After carving a while Iíll add new lines until I approach a finished product. When I have him roughed out as shown I go over him with 150 grit sandpaper to smooth him up. With 1 pound foam, it is hard to get a good smooth finish. Thankfully, we are carving a dog with fur and the roughness resembles fur.
Oct 29, 2015, 02:48 PM

Step 45: Head Animation (optional)


To rotate the head I use a Hitec HS-85MG servo. I cut a head mounting platform from 1/8 inch ply scrap and used 3/32 CF rod as a head cross brace. I glued a 6 inch CF tube to the servo with slow cure epoxy to provide stability to the servo. The weak link is the nylon output arm that I broke once when the wind rolled the house over on the ground. It was easy to repair since you can cut the foam head off make repairs and glue it back on.

I hollowed Snoopy by making a copper wire hoop from large gauge single strand wire and attaching it to my solder gun the same way you attach soldering tips. I was careful on the lower body and servo support locations to keep some meat for strength. I separated the head from the body and then sliced the head and body in two with a hotwire before hollowing.


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