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Dec 03, 2015, 06:55 PM
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Push the servo in the center hole with the longest servo arm installed. Draw a line along the hinge line on the bottom of the wing and another directly behind the servo arm from its outer most hole.
Cut a hole all the way thru the wing where the lines cross
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Dec 03, 2015, 06:57 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
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Aileron torque rods.

Start with the rod end, aluminum tubing.
Smash the end, drill a hole and cut it to the length of one servo arm (screw to outer hole) this gives us a 1 to 1 ratio of servo movement.

Find a plastic tube the size of the torque arm wire.
I know is hard to find so I have learned to make my own.
I use a wire one size larger and shrink heat shrink around it, let it cool, pull it off and cut it to length.
Put a 90 degree bend in the wire, slide the plastic tube in place and make the second bend.
Be sure to make a left and right.
To connect your aileron servo to the torque arms, I sand the steel wire to remove the anti-rust coating and put CA adhesive or epoxy in the tube and slide it over the steel.
Be sure to let it set up all the way and hold it upside-down to keep it in the tube while it does.
Dec 12, 2015, 09:08 PM
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Cutting the groove.

I used a heated wire to melt a groove in the wing to install the torque rod.
Align the torque rod with the hinge line and hold it there with masking tape.
Flip it over and look to see that the aluminum rod ends protrude equally from the wing . . .they should if the angle is correct.

Fill the groove with epoxy and set it aside while it cures completely.
Dec 12, 2015, 09:10 PM
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back to the ailerons.

Put the ailerons against the wing and make marks where the torque wire will be inserted into the aileron.
Use scrap wire to "drill" a hole to except the torque wire.
(cutting the wire with wire cutters makes an edge sharp enough to make a hole.)

Slide the wire through the hole and hold the aileron in place while you push a pencil into the gap where the hinges will be.
This will make identical marks to show you where to install the hinges.
Cut slots for the hinge material where the top sheeting meets the aileron strip and cut fiber hinges to about 1/8 inch strips.
bond hinge material in the slots. cut the hinge tips so they are tapered
(Pointed tip for easy incretion in the wing)
install the ailerons.
Dec 19, 2015, 10:16 PM
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Lets lock them down.

Use a sharpened brass tube to remove a patch of sheeting directly above the torque rod end.
Use tape to hold the trailing edge parallel to the wing (neutral position) power up the radio and put the servo to the neutral position and fill the holes with epoxy.

You can fill the hole with the foam you removed however I had to dig mine out and plan to use spackle to fill mine.
Dec 19, 2015, 10:18 PM
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Finally! The fuselage

Here we get to make some fast visual progress.
Cut the patterns from the pattern sheet and use spray adhesive to bond the patterns to poster board or card stock , About the thickness of large mail envelopes is about right.

Carefully cut the patterns out using scissors for the curved edges and a straight edge and hobby knife for the straight cuts.
These straight cuts should be made on a smooth hard surface since you have to push down fairly hard; too hard for a craft cutting board.

If you don't have a cutting board get one, when you cut sheet foam it saves blades and keeps them from getting dull.
Dec 19, 2015, 10:19 PM
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The hardest part about cutting the fuselage formers was keeping the knife 90 degrees to the building surface and not cutting your patterns. Its really not hard at all.
If you have a scroll saw use it on the 6mm parts. It's much easier and you save hobby knife tips.
Be sure to draw the centerline on the cut parts, They come in handy several times during assembly
don't forget to make the marks for the pushrods.
Dec 20, 2015, 09:25 AM
When cows fly!
I so need a scroll saw. I also have trouble with the 90 degree knife issue....and knocking over my can of Bud Light!
Dec 23, 2015, 05:24 PM
Watt Waster
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Build Frames vs Build-over Plugs

I confess I am hooked on the build-over plug/frame concept and don't mess with build up frames anymore. Primarily because it seems to take longer and it is more difficult to get the curved surfaces I prefer without the appearance of flat panel sections. I've already shown how much like the old wood carving method use long ago a build-over plug is, but in common insulation foam instead of balsa, or another wood.

I have also used build-over frames with almost as good final results as long as there are enough horizontal parts to ensure the proper curve is kept in the finished lightweight fuselage foam skin shell. If the build up model has a lot of internal parts, be they of foam, wood, or plastic, the fuselage tends to be a little heavier. Since super lightweight is the objective, it is easier to achieve with the build-over plug, or frame method. More about this in my blog in RC Groups if you want to consider what I am promoting. Probably need to post more pictures.
Latest blog entry: Center of Gravity - Airplanes
Dec 27, 2015, 09:09 PM
RC 4 Life
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When you cut the 3mm fuselage side panels cut them at the same time. This will ensure that they are identical.

Giving the foam sheets a shot of water will keep them together through the capillary action of the water.

Before they are separated mark the former locations at the same time for the same reason.

Note that the wing saddle curve has been cut oversized by 1/16 inch. This is to be sure there is material available for a perfect fit when the wing mates with the fuselage.
Dec 27, 2015, 09:11 PM
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One of the promises and goals for the Cartoon Planes was to build them with no foam shaping required.

I sort of jumped off track here but it's such an easy task I'm going to call it "warping."

On a flat surface, use a 3/4 inch smooth tube (PVC) to roll the fuselage sheeting over with moderate downward pressure.
Use one of the formers to see how close the shape matches.
Just close will work.
be sure to make a left and right.
Dec 27, 2015, 09:12 PM
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I started the fuselage assembly by using tape to hold the aft ends of the side sheeting together.
This will keep them true during assembly.
The F-1 former was next.
Since it is the firewall, the tape goes from the face of F-1 to the edges of the side sheeting to hold it firmly.
When it comes to applying tape to the side sheeting; try to only stick it to the first 1/4 inch.
Pealing the tape off foam sheeting will leave a mark that could show up later.

Starting with the fuselage on its side makes getting started much easier. You will understand the need for the blocks in a moment.
Dec 28, 2015, 09:50 AM
When cows fly!
Jan 03, 2016, 08:56 PM
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Work the formers from front to back.
Apply glue to the edges of the formers , spread the fuselage side sheeting, align the formers with the marks and relax the sides.

To hold it in position, trap the former with narrow tape strips on both sides.

Make the tape strips just tight enough to hold the side panels against the formers. If you have to “go over the side” with the tape strip only allow it to stick to a small portion.
It leaves marks when removed.

The scissors are for trimming the extra tape, Sort of gets in the way.

Note: if you draw a straight line on the table you can use the centerlines to be sure it is going together straight.
Jan 03, 2016, 08:57 PM
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We need the wing held above the table so the fuselage formers will clear the table top.
I used plastic blocks with a servo cut out so it would not rest on the servo either.

Place the fuselage on the wing and slide sandpaper rough side up forward and aft in-between them to sand the edge of the fuselage sides for a perfect wing to fuselage fit.

Its worth doing the step.

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