Cartoon Corsair - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Jan 31, 2016, 03:08 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Cut the servo mount sheet from 6mm foam and bond the servos in place.

Note that the rudder servo is closer to the centerline.

Drop the panel in the cockpit allowing the servos to sit on the wing . mark the inside walls to show you where to apply gorilla glue and bond it in place.

On your panel the servos are mounted closer to the former for easier servicing.
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Jan 31, 2016, 03:10 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
The control push rods are installed next. The holes marked on the formers will be very close to what you need. If you cut them oversized you can connect them from the servo to the rudder and elevator without any bow to them. To prevent bowing 3mm "washers" are cut and slid into position as the rods are installed. I used stir sticks to protect the rods from sloppy bonds.
Jan 31, 2016, 09:40 PM
Registered User
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where can I buy the cable tubing? international shipping

may be this

Last edited by TAFARI; Jan 31, 2016 at 10:19 PM.
Feb 01, 2016, 07:48 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Keep your eyes open .
I use stir sticks for wire and when I'm in a pinch WD-40 tubes work for small cables.
Feb 06, 2016, 08:14 PM
RC 4 Life
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Bend the tail wheel wire following the patterns on the plans don't forget to add the plastic tube before the last bend.

I used a length of small heat shrink here.
Bond the 6mm tail wheel support between the formers and the stabilizer bottom.
Smash a length of aluminum tubing and drill a small hole in the flat portion.
Fill the tube with epoxy and slide it over the push rod and the tail wheel wire and let it set up.

Be sure the rudder torque rod and the tail wheel are aligned.
a strip of tape will hold it while it sets up.
Lay the model on its side and secure the tail wheel wire to its support.
Feb 06, 2016, 08:15 PM
RC 4 Life
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Trim the aft belly pan then cut the gear doors from the inside. Use the edge of the table to bend the gear doors opened.
Feb 06, 2016, 08:17 PM
RC 4 Life
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Test fit the aft belly pan and mark the portion of the gear support that will not need glue applied.
Since there is now an open hole at the back of the model cutting a few small holes in the formers will allow some air to flow. I almost never pass up the opportunity to increase cooling air flow.
Bond the panel to the airframe.
Feb 06, 2016, 08:18 PM
RC 4 Life
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Trim the belly pan and test fit it to the fuselage. The step in the plastic should be aligned with the aft side of the F-1 former. Small adjustments may be needed By sanding the plastic with the same method you used to fit the wing saddle to the wing.
Mark the wing where the plastic makes contact and bond the F-3a former in-between the lines.
Feb 17, 2016, 09:39 PM
RC 4 Life
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motor mount
Most parkflyer out runners use a10mm stick to mount them. This mounting system is so popular that E-flite sells an adaptor to convert others to this system. I use stick mounts on the Cartoon warbirds because it makes it easy to get the thrust line correct and their availability. The down side is finding a 10mm stick at the hobby shop is impossible.
But it's easy to make one. I buy a 3/8 hardwood stick and bond 1/32 plywood to the top and one of the sides.
This brings the stick up to 10.35 mm X 10.35mm; well within the range of using a sanding block to make it fit, just keep the motor mount handy for test fits.
I have found that if the mount to stick fit is not very tight over time the aluminum will chew at the wood and get worse. Not a flight problem but the sound gets annoying.
I found that bonding plywood butted against the mount prevents this little problem.
Feb 17, 2016, 09:40 PM
RC 4 Life
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If you have not bonded the motor mount doublers do it now. I had to wait to establish the thrust line, better late than never. This doubler was not originally used on the Cartoon Planes but we found that if the prop shaft hit the ground in a landing flip over or a cross wind cartwheel the mount would crack or break, this is the fix for that.
Feb 17, 2016, 09:41 PM
RC 4 Life
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We will need the cowl to set the motor depth.
Trim the flange off by marking the cowl with the pencil trick.
Give the inside a shot of black paint .
( the final model will look better if you do it now)
Block sand the inside of the cowl until the space between the cylinders break free.
I use a 2" sanding disk but you have to be careful.
Drill the hole for the prop shaft.
Feb 17, 2016, 09:43 PM
RC 4 Life
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Push the motor stick into the formers until it pokes out the back of F-2.
Install the cowl and adjust the prop shaft position so you can grip the prop shaft with needle noses pliers for prop changes. ( just aft of the aft prop nut.)

Note: The prop shaft should be centered in the hole drilled in the motor detail with the aft edge of the cowl aligned with the aft edge of the F-1 former. If the motor mount stick holes need adjustment use sandpaper bonded to a narrow stick.

Mark the stick position and pull it back 6mm. Apply glue to the stick at the front side of the formers then slide it in place. Use a Q-tip to spread the glue around the hole.
Feb 17, 2016, 09:44 PM
RC 4 Life
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To run the motor wires into the model we need holes.
Sharpen the inside edge of 1/2" brass tubing and push the sharp edge against the foam while twisting.
This is one method to make holes brought up in my book Building with foam.
It makes clean and easy holes so it's a favorite.
Feb 24, 2016, 07:27 PM
RC 4 Life
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Rough cut the cockpit plastic and follow the trim lines that makes the hatch hole.
Place the plastic on the airframe and mark the fuselage where that hatch hole opening starts and stops.
Remove a strip 3/16 wide between the marks.
this provides clearance for the hatch tabs.
Feb 24, 2016, 07:28 PM
RC 4 Life
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Cut the hatch.

The hatch plastic piece is marked F and A , ( front and aft) on the ends.
transfer the marks with a pencil to the hatch inside.
Start with a rough cut ( the ends ).
cut the trim lines that make the ends.
Cut the trim lines that mark the ends of the sides.

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