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Oct 08, 2015, 03:59 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Discussion

Plastic glue


Hi All,
Does anyone have any recommendations for suitable glue for plastics. Not exactly sure on the type of plastic but it's for glueing a broken, through wing, retract mount on an FMS 1400mm P47 foamie.
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Oct 08, 2015, 04:03 PM
Kimbers Keeper.
BHOFM's Avatar
I would look into the stuff they advertise on TV that welds with UV light.


http://gizmodo.com/super-glues-got-n...ard-1666641845
Oct 08, 2015, 06:39 PM
Registered User
It depends greatly on the specific type of plastic. Ideally you want a glue that contains a solvent that will soften the surface of the plastic and create a weld. Plastic model cement works like that, PVC and ABS pipe cement for plumbing is similar. Regular CA bonds some plastics well and there is epoxy for gluing plastic. You'll have to figure out what type of plastic it is though or practice on a scrap.
Oct 08, 2015, 08:19 PM
Blew out my flip flop
David Hogue's Avatar
Personaly, I would make an aluminum plate that matches the retract plate, drill the holes in the corners and the posts, and screw the thing together from the top and bottom. I had one of the larger P-51's with the same retention system that I had to replace the retracts on, I cant remember for sure if I had to glue one of those but if I did I just used CA
Last edited by David Hogue; Oct 08, 2015 at 08:29 PM.
Oct 08, 2015, 10:27 PM
Chasin' that Neon Rainbow
Grantham Kid's Avatar
Plastic glue won't hold that. It will pull apart as soon as you try putting the screws back in. You need a new one or as mentioned above, fabricate something.
Oct 08, 2015, 10:45 PM
Detroit 2-stroke junkie
1320fastback's Avatar
+1 above, soon as the screw bites into then threads they will snap off again.

Can you get a replacement part?
Oct 09, 2015, 02:57 AM
Chasin' that Neon Rainbow
Grantham Kid's Avatar
A thought. This is what I would do. (You don't have to )
Cut a piece of aluminium plate the exact size and use motor stand-offs or spacers as the legs.

Example
Alu and nylon stand-offs. I buy these kits as they are cheap.

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Complete_.html
Last edited by Grantham Kid; Oct 09, 2015 at 03:02 AM.
Oct 09, 2015, 01:11 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thanks all. I think the replacement fabricated aluminium idea sounds like the way forward.
Oct 09, 2015, 01:18 PM
Registered User
If the plastic can be solvent welded then it is nearly as strong as the original piece. The aluminum idea does sound good though, less likely to break again.
Oct 13, 2015, 09:14 AM
summitmk3
roadgraders's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by James_S
If the plastic can be solvent welded then it is nearly as strong as the original piece. The aluminum idea does sound good though, less likely to break again.
I have used solvent as James said that works well. I also came across some professional adhesive that our local auto body shop uses that's great stuff too.
It's made by Lord Fusor corporation. It's expensive and you have to buy the applicator gun also. I don't use the mixing tips that come with the cartridge. I just squeeze out a small amount on a sticky note and mix with a toothpick etc. and apply. I use item #143 which only gives you a minute or so before it starts setting up. There's also other adhesives that give a longer working time also if that would be handier. I also use adhesion promoter 602EZ. This adhesive is used for repair of plastic bumpers etc. I have had good luck gluing polyethylene also.

I actually made an entire roll cage for my traxxas summit with 3/8 poly water supply tubing glued with this adhesive and it's still holding well.
Here's a link to the product: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/lord...t-p-15949.aspx
Last edited by roadgraders; Oct 13, 2015 at 10:02 AM.
Oct 14, 2015, 06:16 AM
Registered User
use that UV light "Bondic" stuff its great!!! my wife bought it for me and I thought I wont use this... Hell I was wrong! that stuff is strong and easy to use. its about 25 bucks for a kit but worth it.


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