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Sep 29, 2015, 11:58 PM
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Build Log

Leading Edge Gliders P-80 Shooting Star

Working on my new P-80.

I'm not going to do a play by play build log cause Jack has that base covered in his build videos, which by the way are awesome.

I am going to make the radio (receiver, servos and battery) completely removable.

What I intend to do is post pic's of the radio compartment installation. I've done a mock up and have the plan in my head. Please understand I am not in any way knocking the traditional way of installing the radio in a EPP glider, It's just that my gliders usually live a long life. I've been flying my DAW KA-6 now for 12 years.
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Sep 30, 2015, 01:42 AM
Living the dream
KiwiKid's Avatar
Looking forward to the build.
Sep 30, 2015, 08:25 AM
Registered User
ian murdock's Avatar
Sep 30, 2015, 03:00 PM
Dunetop Flyer
jcarstan's Avatar
Always interested in new ways to do things.
Oct 01, 2015, 12:05 AM
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I'm warning you guys, this may go kinda of slow, I'm a slow builder but it works out in the end.

I just thought by starting this thread, it would commit me to posting this modification.

More to come, I promise.
Oct 02, 2015, 12:35 AM
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OK, first part, aileron servo mount. Nothing exciting here, but I got the ball rolling.

Installed a piece of 1/32" ply over servo cutout on bottom of wing to protect servo. I didn't want to use bottom of servo as a landing skid.

I'm planning on using Hitec HS-225 BB servos for aileron and elevator.

Note the carbon wing spar, top and bottom, per the instructions the spar cutouts will be filled with lightweight filler and the center section fiber-glassed.
Oct 05, 2015, 12:45 AM
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Elevator mounting

I have the elevator servo mount started. I'm not quite done yet but I'm trying to post pictures as I go along. Figured that would be easier.

Note: the carbon rod that was intended for the elev. housing I used on the upper fuselage full length. It didn't make sense to shorten it for the new elevator location cause its main job is for stiffening. I will use a regular nyrod housing for the elev.

The elevator servo is mounted to one side so the push-rod can stay centered. I am going to add 1/32 ply to the foam out-board of the servo to stiffen up that area, probably not needed but what the heck.

I notched out slightly the matting fuselage side so I will be able to first thread the servo lead then drop servo in and slide onto servo mount. It works.

I love having the split halve fuselage, makes life a whole lot easier. If I had to do this with a one piece fuselage it wouldn't be pretty.

There will be a channel toward the nose for the elev. servo wire to connect to the receiver which I will cover later with the Battery/Receiver installation.

Also, I am going to route next to the elevator push-rod housing, a tube for the antenna, Yes I still fly 72 MHz.

Weight and Balance considerations: Before I started, I calculated moment/arms for the further aft radio equip. locations and determined that I will probably need an additional 1.5 ounces in the nose, in addition to whatever nose weight is needed for proper CG. I should be able to get the battery/receiver pretty close to the nose as intended.

More to come.
Last edited by Slopemaster; Oct 05, 2015 at 01:06 AM.
Oct 06, 2015, 11:39 PM
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Tail-cone/Engine exhaust

Tonight I completed the engine exhaust/tail area.

I cutoff part of a prescription bottle to make the engine exhaust.
Also this will give me access to the elevator linkage and provide an antenna exit.

The bottle will eventually be glued in with goop, this will add strength back to the area where I removed the foam.

Tomorrow I will set in the antenna tube. Then all I have to do is build the battery/receiver compartment.

I plan on dry assembling the glider when all the construction is done to get an estimate on required nose weight (lead). That way I can permanently install lead in the nose forward of the battery/receiver compartment.

When the aircraft is completed I will be able to put final trim weight in the batt./receiver compartment.
Oct 07, 2015, 08:01 PM
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Antenna Tube

Got the antenna tube installed. Next up will be the Battery/Receiver compartment. That will take some time.
Oct 08, 2015, 01:19 AM
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Battery/Receiver compartment

Started the radio compartment. First, I constructed the compartment using 2 mm coroplast (my SPAD building skills came in handy).

When planning the compartment, Considerations were, I wanted the battery and receiver as far forward as possible (CG), ease of batt./receiver going in and not making the foam to thin, especially toward the nose.

The compartment is about 11.5 " long by 1.5" square. I made it 5 sided so I could have a lap joint for gluing (Medium Zap). Also you must flash the surface to be glued with a flame so the glue will stick to the coroplast. My butane torch was dead so I used a lighter. Be careful with this, visit SPAD to the Bone to learn more about working with coroplast.

Next step was to determine location and notch out one side. Cutting a big chuck of foam out of a new airplane is not for the faint of heart. This step was time consuming. I started by taking small sections out, then the final depth and leveling was done using a snap off blade cutter as recommended by LEG. It is important that you have a snug fit but if the notch is not even or to tight, it will displace the coroplast and then the radio gear won't slid in right.

I only got one side cut out tonight. I drew a center-line down the top and bottom of coroplast compartment so I could use it as a gauge to see where I needed to remove more foam in the cut away.

Now I will be able to slid the battery and receiver to the front of the nose. Plugs out of spare foam will be used to keep the radio from sliding back. Note that I left 1/2" of material where I cut the hole the the coroplast. The aft edge of the notch is where the approximate CG will be. I should be able to use this area for ballast if need be. It will provide a 1"x 1.5"x 1.5".

I am planning on making a lite ply bulkhead for the front and rear of compartment to add stiffness. Of course the aft bulkhead will have holes for servo leads and antenna.

I thought about running some 1/16" music wire through the flutes in the coroplast to add nose weight and stiffness, but my concern is that if I dork the glider nose first the wire would bend in the flute and I would have no way to straighten it back. So I will possibly add a little strapping tape to the box. Have to keep in mind that its a foamie and it gonna flex if I decide to play chicken with the rocks.

More to come.
Last edited by Slopemaster; Oct 02, 2018 at 11:18 PM.
Oct 08, 2015, 01:32 AM
Aerotow and sloping Holland
MaartenX's Avatar
Interesting build, I like the way you are setting up the gear.

@Kiwikid: how is that T33 of yours coming along?

Regards, Maarten
Oct 08, 2015, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MaartenX
Interesting build, I like the way you are setting up the gear.

@Kiwikid: how is that T33 of yours coming along?

Regards, Maarten
Thank you, I couldn't pull this off with out the split fuselage.
Oct 09, 2015, 12:33 AM
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I now have the other fuselage half notched out. To accurately transfer the marks with the first notch I broke off a toothpick and inserted in a corner with about 1/8" sticking up from the fuselage matting surface. Then marked the end of toothpick with marker, put the fuselage halve together and pressed. Did this for all four corners, one at a time, connected the marks and started cutting.

Also, I cut out a channel to route wires and antenna. For slope planes I usually don't use a switch. Just plug an extension between battery and receiver to plug/unplug.

My plan is to glue the compartment into one half, then when I finally join the halves together, the other will be glued at that time.
Oct 09, 2015, 03:31 PM
Shut up and fly!
Random Guy's Avatar
Living up to your name, Slopemaster. Expectations were high.
Oct 10, 2015, 12:11 AM
Slow builder
_AL_'s Avatar
Clean work so far. Looking good.


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