If that is a solder bridge at the arrow, that might be causing your problem. Maybe check that first.
If that isn't the problem, do you have a multimeter?

If removing the solder bridge doesn't work (assuming there is one - it's often difficult to tell from a pic), then in the pic below you can see 2 resistors near/between the arrows. They are a voltage divider that lowers the battery voltage to a voltage that the microcontroller can use. The resistors are both approx 10k. So for a full battery, say around 4.16V on the board, you should be able to measure around 2.08V at the arrows labelled "half batt voltage". This is where the MCU gets it's voltage input, which then gets processed for the low batt warning and for telemetry.

Hi. I have a question.
in one hit I have ripped the connection pins to configure fc, is there any other point to be able to weld? the fc is h8 blu.
thanks and great work.

Originally Posted by Rnxto

Hi. I have a question.
in one hit I have ripped the connection pins to configure fc, is there any other point to be able to weld? the fc is h8 blu.
thanks and great work.

I think your options are carefully exposing the trace next the pads for you to solder on to (spending on whether there is actually any trace or it's routed through a via) or solder directly to the pins of the MCU (pins 19 and 20) if you have the soldering skills. http://sirdomsen.diskstation.me/doku...hematic_1b.jpg

thank you very much i will try that

Could it work soldering to the clk and dat pins of the XN297LBW?

No, it has to be pins 19 and 20 of the main (largest) IC. Pin 20 is easy to solder because it's on the corner of the IC. Did you rip both CLK and DATA pads? Or just one of them?

EDIT - uploaded a pic of these pins here:
http://sirdomsen.diskstation.me/doku...php?id=clk_dat

all three pins, clk, dat and gnd were detached
I will do what you have told me. imagine that gnd can I solder it to any gnd pin?

Yes any ground point is OK, even the battery negative pad. A common technique for soldering a wire to say pin 19 is to put masking tape over pins 18 and 20 so you can't drop solder accidentally across the wrong pins. Tin the pin 19 with a tiny amount of solder, tin the wire, and then just "spot-weld" the wire to the pin with your iron.

Also, there is a pic here that shows there is a very short copper trace attached to the DAT pad (underneath the board), if that is still there (wasn't ripped off) then you could scrape that trace back to bare copper and solder a wire to that trace instead of pin 19.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...T-Hidden-Trace

Thanks again

it has worked in the points behind the fc.
but now i have another question.
before the blow I used chaoli 8520 engines and it was going well but it lacked power, after the blow I decided to put some racerstar 8520 and they seem to have a better response but I need to lower idle up, because it floats too much. I have dropped from 0.5 to 0.1 in config.h but it still floats the same.
What I can be doing wrong? can it be the subject of pids?

Yes, likely PIDs are too high or you need more filtering to cut off some of the noise going to the gyro.

Ok tnk. has worked by putting very strong filtering.

Originally Posted by Ian444

If that is a solder bridge at the arrow, that might be causing your problem. Maybe check that first.
If that isn't the problem, do you have a multimeter?

That exactly bridge was the problem! All OK now. Thank you guys!

I see bg has a flash sale on the h8 minis. Does anyone know if they are flashable?