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Nov 09, 2015, 01:24 PM
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fuselage left side


Built this one over the other with foil in between.

Again front fuselage section is only used to allign the assembly.
Last edited by flyingwolfmann; Nov 10, 2015 at 02:50 AM.
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Nov 11, 2015, 05:05 PM
Wow! Trees grow fast!
SOOO NEEETTTT!!!!!
Amazing Job!!!
Keep it up!!
Nov 13, 2015, 02:07 PM
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Front fuselage construction


Quote:
SOOO NEEETTTT!!!!!
Amazing Job!!!
Keep it up!!
Thanks, Blind Accidents


I keep on trying, love the use of magnets, it works well.

The front fuselage is built over the plan and I started with F3 -F5 and F6 all glued with thin CA+ nice and square.

Reversed the assembly and glued it to the left side, again very precise alligning is necessary, once all was fixed and hold in place with the magnetic squares, I applied CA+.

Motormount M and front piece F1 was placed between the fuselage halves and I pressed the sides together between my fingers looking for a perfect fit, once this was done CA+ was applied.

I strengthed the joints with a few drops of Super'Phatic glue, I find thin CA+ good but it is also britlle, joints as the motormount (M) and F3-F5-F6 needs a bit of strengthening.
Last edited by flyingwolfmann; Nov 13, 2015 at 02:25 PM.
Nov 13, 2015, 04:19 PM
Registered User
Sorry mate, I've been busy plan drawing for the guys on the scale forum and missed your excellent progress. I really love those sanding tools you make.

As regards floppy disc hinges, 2-3 mm wide has proved fine on my models. 3 on the rudder and 4 on the elevators (2 to each elevator). The stresses imparted by these little models are minimal, so that's plenty strong enough.

On biplanes I always set the tail at slight + incidence (hence the taper on the longeron). I find it helps keep the tail from drooping in flight and prevents the model climbing so much. Using down elevator trim never seems to work in quite the same way.
Builders who have missed that on larger models find they want to climb all the time.

Keep raising these points in the thread, then I can attempt to answer for all to see. The photos you're posting here will be just fine.

Pete
Nov 13, 2015, 05:46 PM
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speedy01's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingwolfmann
Blind Accidents.
Yeah ... right!

Beautiful workmanship. What's your adhesive of choice?

Gene K
Nov 19, 2015, 02:36 PM
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Top wing C/S construction


Pete,

Thanks for the explanation about the taper of the longeron, very interesting and something to keep in mind when building and flying.

Quote:
What's your adhesive of choice?
Gene, thanks,

I mostly use thin CA+ for almost all the wood/ply/bass joints, I put everything in place, fixed it with magnets and other fixables and apply thin CA+.
I find it strong enough but I take care that all the joints are 'lets say' impregnated.

Super'Phatic is used to add some extra reinforment as on the front fuselage joints and places that I find it is necessary, it is a bit flexible and very light once dry.

Titebond is used for the lamination of the tailsections but I'm sure it can be used when thinned down for strengthening purposes too.

I keep mentioning the glues I'll use.


Top wing C/S construction:

- used squares to allign and took care that the tabs where the C/S struts will fit in are on the right position, see dry- fit picture, this is very important!!!

- added a scrap 0,8 mm ply piece(false DH) in place instead of the original dihedral brace(DH).

-carefull added CA+ glue to all the joints except to the scrap 0,8 mm fals DH, but very carefull, thin CA+ flows very easily!!!

-when dry, the false DH piece is removed and extra CA+ is added where necesarry and the original DH brace is glued in place.
Last edited by flyingwolfmann; Nov 19, 2015 at 04:14 PM.
Nov 19, 2015, 02:50 PM
The Junk Man
Quote:
Titebond is used for the lamination of the tailsections but I'm sure it can be used when thinned down for strengthening purposes too.
I just wanted to clear up this statement a bit.

You do not make TiteBond, or any other water based adhesive, stronger by thinning it.

The solids content of PVA and Aliphatic resin adhesives are what gives them their bonding strength.

Nor does it "penetrate the wood" better when thinned... all you are seeing is water wicking into the wood, not the solids.

That thinned PVA and Aliphatics work when thinned down is a testament to how overly strong they are for our use.

Tom
Nov 19, 2015, 03:21 PM
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Thread OP
Quote:
You do not make TiteBond, or any other water based adhesive, stronger by thinning it.
Tom, thanks for your remark, you are right but I have to put it in the right context, when used on these small models, I will advice to thin them a bit down to save some weight, there will be strenght enough, not because water/thinning down will give a better bonding. (translated it a bit wrong)
Water is only a 'carrier' for the PVA or Aliphatic resin adhesive components.


I prefer Super'Phatic for this purpose, it is very light, flows very easily and
gives a good reinforcment, it penetrates into the wood much better and dries fast.


I did a test and I found that this reinforcment(see pictures) was strong, I only added the SP glue into the corner, not in the joint as the CA+ does the job there, in this test I din't use CA+, I only wanted to test the strenght of the SP glue for the reinforcement.

I find it very interesting to discuss the use of glue(s), the whats/whys, why nots, how to ....... it is a science of its own when I compare with what I had when I started modeling.


Johan
Last edited by flyingwolfmann; Nov 19, 2015 at 04:23 PM.
Nov 19, 2015, 03:31 PM
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Thread OP
Next to come, the bottom wing halves
Last edited by flyingwolfmann; Nov 19, 2015 at 03:46 PM.
Nov 20, 2015, 07:26 AM
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RNAF's Avatar
Great progress, again! Quite smart to build in "fake dihedral" to get the angles right. Is there any washout, based on the plans?
Washout can usually also be obtained at the moment of covering.

Wish I had more time for these things!
Dec 06, 2015, 11:52 AM
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Bottom wing halves


Quote:
Great progress, again! Quite smart to build in "fake dihedral" to get the angles right. Is there any washout, based on the plans?
Washout can usually also be obtained at the moment of covering.
Thanks Dave, only by using a fake dihedral I could built it all square, there is no washout build in, the wings are flat.

Bottom wing halves:

- same build as the upper wing halves, glued with thin CA+

- again carefull aligning is very important!

- the dihedral root rib is added as one of the last ribs, because the frame has to be stable for carefull aligning.

- 1/32" sheeting is added


Johan
Last edited by flyingwolfmann; Dec 06, 2015 at 12:18 PM.
Dec 06, 2015, 12:19 PM
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RNAF's Avatar
Nicely built strut supports!
Dec 07, 2015, 06:20 PM
already ruff, trying for ready
Looking forward to this one. These were considered aerobatic and seem very handsome.
Jan 31, 2016, 02:37 PM
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Thread OP

Wing halves: finishing LE &TE


Quote:
Looking forward to this one. These were considered aerobatic and seem very handsome.
Yes, this is a nice finish, I found some inspiring finishings while searching for the Udet Flamingo, I'll discus it with Pete, to see what his favorite finish is

My apologies, shall post a bit faster following the construction.

Also soon here in this thread and in preparation of its use:

- floppy disk hinge test and how to glue

- the use of a 5x5x1mm N48 neodymium magnet with a small piece of self adhesive rubber (silicon) tape to it, this increases the sticking friction between the magnet and the surface (a very small metal plate), the magnet is glued to the battery with a small drop of epoxy glue.

But I'll continue with:

shaping the LE:

- added tape to protect the ribs and used a template to check the LE while sanding with a square aluminium sanding block over the full lenght of the LE
Last edited by flyingwolfmann; Jan 31, 2016 at 03:11 PM.
Feb 02, 2016, 06:51 AM
Registered User
4 hinges on elevators and 3 on rudder is ample. I'd probably only use 2 on the rudder, they aren't stressed very much at all.

Yes, that taper can be added once you have both side frames, or even after the fuselage is assembled. I find the + incidence helps keep the tail up in flight and reduces the tendency to climb as power is applied.

I agree, you do VERY tidy work and I love your purpose designed tools.

Pete


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