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Sep 25, 2015, 03:57 PM
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Lessons learned by the new guy

As I sit here dumbfounded having made another mistake due to inexperience, I thought it might be a good idea to post a thread about all the dumb things that I've done so far. Obviously this will be continuous as being human, I'll continue to make them. Feel free to add your own mistakes in the hope that someone starting out will come across this and not make the same mistake.

I'll start this out with my first two mistakes:

Cheap hex wrenches.
When I first started outfitting my toolbox, I thought all those high speed looking, aluminium handled hex wrenches were just the thing I needed. I hate loose Allen keys. So, on to Hobbyking and on the way were three nice sets of cross tip screwdrivers, flat tips and then the wonderful hex wrench set. Looked great sitting in my tool bag. But the first stubborn hex screw, attached by properly applied locktite, resulted in rounded off hex head wrenches. Not to be thwarted, and still wanting high speed looking hex wrenches, I now have an incomplete set of cheap hex wrenches and a full FT Associated hex wrench set. They haven't rounded off yet. I'm kicking myself in the butt because I know better. My full size toolboxes are full of Snap-On and Craftsman. Lesson: Don't cheap out on tools. You will end up buying them twice.

Pay attention to wheel and tire sizes.
Last weekend while watching some of the racing I noticed that the 4x4 Short Course Truck racing seemed like a lot of fun. It definitely wasn't as serious as the buggy racing. The drivers were laughing and basically having a blast. So I decided to find something cheap and ready to go that would allow me to have fun too. Enter the Associated PROSC 4x4. Went through it and fixed all the little things that come wrong on RTR's, scrapped the radio and installed an extra Spektrum receiver. It is exactly what I was looking for. But I knew from the buggies that one of the most important things you can do is to get the right tires for the track conditions. So along with the truck, I ordered up a few sets of the tires that work at my track and a few extra wheels.

Though it is a truck.........truck tires don't fit. I now have a set of 2.2 TRUCK Goose Bumps, Flip Outs, Bar Codes and Double Dee's. Turns out, I need SHORT COURSE TRUCK tires. 3x2.2. Why they did that I have no idea.

Lesson: Be careful buying parts for vehicles without physically checking to see if it will fit.....or research more.....because a truck is not a truck....

I am these 2.2 TRUCK tires will fit something like the RC10T5M? Or basically a STADIUM TRUCK?

Lesson learned.
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Sep 25, 2015, 07:39 PM
Buggy in style
The 2.2's will fit stadium trucks indeed, or 1/10 truggies.

I don't know how cheap the tools I have, but they were about 10$US for the set off gear best. They come in a set of 4 (1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3mm), has titanium bits. Does the job wonderfully, and are tight. The other sets of tools I have is a 30in1 set from CanadianTire (Mastercraft brand), and it has not failed me for the time I've been using it.
Sep 25, 2015, 07:44 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild, repeat
Noob mistake here....plugging in the battery terminals on the battery backwards. On my zippy 4000mah packs, the packs are all red. The only difference between + and - terminals are two symbols so small they are barely legible. That little snafu cost me an esc and a battery.
Sep 25, 2015, 07:54 PM
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crazyfrog1's Avatar
Threw away a crap pull start off of an old smartech car I was fixing up thinking I would just replace it as I couldnt be bothered replacing the cord, couldnt replace the pull start. I still cant bring myself to throw the car away.
Ended up buying one new off of ebay that a guy had in his attic since new bargain.
Sep 25, 2015, 09:50 PM
Registered User
marmalade1's Avatar
I seem to enjoy high speed corners near hard immovable objects. Just fractured the chassis of my month old RC10B4.2 (RTR).

Thank goodness for Amazon Prime.

Sep 26, 2015, 05:34 AM
Fan of just about anything RC
SoloProFan's Avatar
Reminds me of this older thread, which also lists bloopers and mistakes:
Latest blog entry: For the love of the hobby!
Sep 26, 2015, 08:37 AM
Car Bashing
Jym73's Avatar
Noob mistake here....plugging in the battery terminals on the battery backwards. On my zippy 4000mah packs, the packs are all red. The only difference between + and - terminals are two symbols so small they are barely legible. That little snafu cost me an esc and a battery.
+1, first time a noob mistake and second time careless mistake and like you only one color but black. Fortunately i have unplugged rather quickly twice, everything still works, but for the second i have burned my finger when removing one of the wire, it become hot so fast with electric short cut. Now i don't forget to put colored tape to don't do this a third time. The second time it was the only battery without colored tape on + plug and the battery wasn't in the same position as usually.
Sep 26, 2015, 09:15 AM
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Thread OP
Good idea to mark those battery plugs. Hadn't thought of that. They are EXACTLY the same size aren't they.....and sometimes the + is covered by the battery retainer....

My next mistake. And I should have known better as I've been building r/C's for quite some time. Last night I was masking up and painting my signature paint job on a new Dodge 2500 body for the Prosc. Took lots of time to mask out the intricate curves and such. Normally I use tamiya detail tape.....but this time I grabbed some Wal-Mart blue painters tape......the red bled all through the white and looks like it was done by a 2 year old with a magic marker. Now I'm not about perfection on these bodies, little bit of dirt, a few stickers and good to go......but this is bad. Plus the tape being thicker pulled up the airbrush paint....DOH!!!!!

Now I get to either buy a new $32 body or figure out how to strip off this paint
Sep 26, 2015, 09:18 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Those edges aren't round
Sep 26, 2015, 11:42 AM
Buggy in style
Weird, the real 3M blue painters tape is very good at masking. Not sure how you managed to have it bleed like that.

Although, you should clean the body with a soft soap before masking if you didn't do that.
Sep 26, 2015, 04:23 PM
Bash the planet!!
I had great luck painting flames using some sticker paper from office depot. My wife has a cricut machine. It cuts out the designs then i just stick it on and paint. No blead through at all.
Plus it gets the wife involved in the hobby, which is always a good thing.

Ive also had good luck with liquid mask, but its time consuming.
Sep 26, 2015, 05:58 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild, repeat
Originally Posted by alan_r
Those edges aren't round
Without a doubt, liquid masking tape is the only way to go if you're going to do any sort of airbrushing.

I use the parma, but i'm sure both work fine. Just make sure to do 3 heavy coats. If you try to skimp and only do 2, it's a real bear to peel off.
Sep 26, 2015, 10:00 PM
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Thread OP
I'll: I don't think it is actually 3m. This stuff was bargain bin at Wal-Mart. Grabbed it by mistake. Garbage.

Liquid masking tape? Awesome! Never even heard of it. I'm still figuring out how to airbrush and that would definitely help. I'll have to get some. Thanks for the link.

Man I'm making a lot of Next new one just happened a few minutes ago. Tamiya usually puts a little dimple mark in the spot where body posts come through. Makes it easier to locate and put a hole there. Proline and a truck it wasn't made for: no such luck. Painted body+ trying to make a mark from underneath to put the body mounting hole. PITA.......
Lesson learned: dry fit the body on the chassis and mark the body post location before painting. Make the mark on the protective coating. After reaming, Peel off the layer and you're good to go....New challenges everyday
Sep 29, 2015, 03:36 PM
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Thread OP
Man.......since day one I've been having issues with the dogbones falling out on my RC-10CE. It was an issue with the stealth transmission, then with the 6 gear as well. I ordered a hard to find CVD kit from England a few weeks ago thinking this would help, but in the meantime I had almost solved it with a weird combination of shims, fuel tubing and plastic shock spacers. The problem with all of this is that sometimes it would cause the suspension to bind.

Originally, I thought that the dogbone issue had something to do with the 3/16 axle conversion kit I installed, ASC6802, and that maybe the CVD kit, which was designed for this conversion kit, was somehow necessary.

So the CVD kit finally arrives and I installed it last night. Early this morning, I went to the track, fingers crossed. I ran three lipo's- clean runs and I had no issues. On the forth, I clipped the inside of a turn and rolled the car. After righting it, I walked back to the drivers stand and continued driving. On the very last jump, the car stopped moving.......left side CVD popped out. I'm mad.

So I go home and disassemble the entire back half of the car. Inspecting everything for wear or damage. As I get to the shocks, it starts to dawn on me that I've always had 6 extra plastic spacers left over from the new shock kit.......sure enough, I check the instruction manual and see that there are supposed to be three spacers placed on the inside of both rear shocks, to prevent excess droop and allow the dogbone's to fall out.

They work great now.

Lesson: I don't care how many times you've taken something apart. Always reference the manual when you put it back together. This idiot mistake has cost me 4 dogbones, two retaining springs, 4 plastic drive cup spacers, overnight shipping on three of those things and a CVD kit shipped from England. Well, at least I've got CVD's now....and a clean and rebuilt back half of the car... I couldn't make this stuff up if I tried.
Oct 04, 2015, 09:32 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Ok, after another club weekend, I have yet another new guy mistake. This one is quite expensive.

Thinking the the rules of psychics don't apply to you.

When I started down this path, I did what a lot of people do and looked for the "slowest" class to start in so that I could hypothetically keep the speeds lower. I had thought this would force me to concentrate on driving technique and for the most part it has. But at the same time, why do we race? For many, including myself, it's because we are among many other things, competitive. Getting smoked doesn't feel good. So anyway, when I outfitted the cars I wanted to start racing with, I set them up for SPEC 17.5 racing. I figured this would be slower and everyone starts on the same level tech wise. That may be the case. But if your local track doesn't race SPEC class, you're showing up to a top fuel drag race in a stock 1993 LT1 Camaro. No matter how clean I drive, modern cars running 8.5T motors will be faster. I have noticed that they carry more corner speed and then the power of the mod motors allows them to run you down in the straights. If I mess up the line up and timing of a double, I have to roll it because the car doesn't have the power to make up the lost distance before the peak of the jump. The mod cars can do this, and then correct the trajectory in the air. Psychics. Now I kind of understood this going in. But having read many a post where people said you could make a stock 17.5 run similar lap times to a mod motor, I figured I could at least be competitive. Maybe down the road when I drive better but not now. I only place better than last when the others wreck. But given enough time, they always catch up and I can't hold them off.

Now I know, I'm just starting down this path. But I'm not only starting from a power disadvantage, I'm starting from a car disadvantage as well. I'm currently running a RE-RE Worlds car against RB6's and B5M's; on a tame 1/8 scale track that favors corner speed and high power. I'm working to upgrade my gear and get more powerful motors. But I could have saved myself the cost of 3 Reedy 17.5 M3 motors that will now sit in a box until I show up somewhere running SPEC. So the lesson here was twofold; you can't beat psychics and you should pay attention to what people are running where you run most so you can run things competitive to what they have.

Maybe some guys on some tracks can run 17.5 in open and be competitive. I can't. But then again if you could be why have mod at all?

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