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Feb 24, 2020, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptern
Voila, the DMD micro heli momentum is rolling..... Glad to know you have wonderful DMD birds and great enjoyment after such hard works.
Thanks, after helping me to overcome the thoughts that it's hard and complicated, it's easy work now. What's interesting is all these diy DMD have different personalities or different configurations un-like the M2 which is one dimension with same motors and escs. And the fun part is - those of us who don't have the skills to calculate the right motor and esc, but, make it work - it's a big thrill. Hats off to you and the many hi-techs that contribute their skills here. I'm a mid-tech.

Ric...
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Feb 24, 2020, 12:39 PM
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I fly my mcpxbl2 indoors in stability mode1 with self leveling and bank angle limits but no rate limits on throttle/pitch and don't seem to have a problem. The throttle curve does change with flight mode since the stability modes are normal and the 3d mode idleup. I understand that linear servos have no expo - they are linear and don't need any, but don't understand why in the spektrum setup tables for the mcpxbl2 and nanos2 the d/r values don't vary- which seems to mean changing the d/r switch doesn't do anything. When I fly all my blade helis in normal mode its very simple: all switches in the back position, tho I move the throttle hold up when I plug in the battery and land. And the nanos2 and bl2 the mode switch is up one.
Last edited by Mortimerex; Feb 24, 2020 at 01:34 PM.
Feb 25, 2020, 12:33 AM
Registered User
I gently drilled an orange nanos2/mcp x/2 tail blade blh36030R with a .95mm diameter bit and it fit my k110 just like a stock blade. The blade is slightly larger diameter than stock but not enormously larger like the k120 tail blade. Hopefully it works well. At least it looks nice. The pitch looks similar but if it isn't close it won't work right I don't think. I'll first do a low test hover in 3d mode with low rates and if it spins, I'll land and put a stock tail blade on.

On amazon today I also found v977 main blade sets 1 yellow, red, and green and 2 each color tail blades for $20. A bit expensive but I like colored blades and most items on amazon I can get with free shipping. Some of those e-stores the shipping cost 10 times more than the items.
Last edited by Mortimerex; Feb 25, 2020 at 01:26 AM.
Feb 25, 2020, 01:37 AM
Slideways at warp speed.......
kiwi_craig's Avatar
there was a time when the coloured blades where dirt cheap........ 20 for a few dollars..... weight them and check as there was some variances in them weight wise.......... easy enough to get a matched pair.
Feb 26, 2020, 10:14 AM
Registered User
Got my new tattu lipos - same size as the NT 300 2s. They are lihv type and get the same flight as the normal NT. Also got the new servos for the second 2s k110 dmd. Super happy with my k110 with dd on 2s. Tested 6 axis and without any calibration it's almost perfect. I don't fly in 6g, but good to know it's there and working.

Ric...
Feb 26, 2020, 08:23 PM
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I saw a couple instances where my heli would appear to temporarily lose power -- the rotors would visually & audibly slow, and the heli dropped about 6 inches, before quickly recovering and climbing back up again. Did this more than once.

At first I wondered if it was my brushless motor failing (which would be frustrating since it's still pretty new), but on second thought I suspect it might be the batteries? Could these batteries be giving out as they get towards the lower end of their capacity? Is that a reasonable guess or am I off base here?

I'm just running the stock batteries... but looking for a different brand to replace them. Any suggestions on battery brands, please? My electrical skills are pretty basic, so please give me a heads up if I'll need to change out plugs or make adapters, etc to use said batteries

I already own a powerful battery charger that I'd like to use to parallel charge, but it will not work with the stock batteries that I own right now since I don't have a board or plug that supports parallel charging single cells and nothing that fits the WLToys battery plug.
Feb 26, 2020, 10:56 PM
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BirdBarber's Avatar
@craigrs84

The GNB 450mah 80C LiHv are killer batteries. They're good for anything from sport to hard 3D. Make sure to get the 'white plug' version, it has the same Molex connector that the K110 uses. Their other version is the PH2.0 plug version, which might be a better connector but would require you to solder a new matching connector on the K110.

These are LiHv batteries, but it's fine to charge them on a standard LiPo charger, it just doesn't charge that last few percent to top it off. Even when charged on a stock charger they still have amazing punch all the way to the end of the pack, that's what 80C does for you.

Banggood has them in both the China and US warehouses right now.
https://usa.banggood.com/2PCS-GAONEN..._warehouse=USA

$2 Molex parallel charging cable for K110, Walkera, Hubsan etc.
https://usa.banggood.com/Wholesale-W..._warehouse=USA
Note it says it's a balance cable, but looking at the picture it is a parallel cable. Also note that the charger end has both Molex and Red JST connectors.

Last edited by BirdBarber; Feb 27, 2020 at 12:15 AM.
Feb 27, 2020, 01:56 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdBarber
@craigrs84

The GNB 450mah 80C LiHv are killer batteries. They're good for anything from sport to hard 3D. Make sure to get the 'white plug' version, it has the same Molex connector that the K110 uses. Their other version is the PH2.0 plug version, which might be a better connector but would require you to solder a new matching connector on the K110.

These are LiHv batteries, but it's fine to charge them on a standard LiPo charger, it just doesn't charge that last few percent to top it off. Even when charged on a stock charger they still have amazing punch all the way to the end of the pack, that's what 80C does for you.

Banggood has them in both the China and US warehouses right now.
https://usa.banggood.com/2PCS-GAONEN..._warehouse=USA

$2 Molex parallel charging cable for K110, Walkera, Hubsan etc.
https://usa.banggood.com/Wholesale-W..._warehouse=USA
Note it says it's a balance cable, but looking at the picture it is a parallel cable. Also note that the charger end has both Molex and Red JST connectors.


Thanks very much BirdBarber. I checked my charger, I have a Turnigy Reaktor 300W, which is an exact clone of iCharger 206B. It looks like the charger does not implicitly support LIHv, BUT it does allow increasing LIPO charging voltage past 4.2 volts. So I'm thinking that's basically the same thing as LIHv support, correct?

I'm on the fence on whether I want to convert to PH2.0 plug or not. How do people typically convert these? I know one option is to solder the new wires directly to the pads on circuit board. What about just cutting off the molex connector from the very end of the wires and soldering on a new connector to existing wires? Is one way recommended over the other? Thanks.
Feb 27, 2020, 02:57 AM
Hummingbird Assassin
BirdBarber's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigrs84
Thanks very much BirdBarber. I checked my charger, I have a Turnigy Reaktor 300W, which is an exact clone of iCharger 206B. It looks like the charger does not implicitly support LIHv, BUT it does allow increasing LIPO charging voltage past 4.2 volts. So I'm thinking that's basically the same thing as LIHv support, correct?

I'm on the fence on whether I want to convert to PH2.0 plug or not. How do people typically convert these? I know one option is to solder the new wires directly to the pads on circuit board. What about just cutting off the molex connector from the very end of the wires and soldering on a new connector to existing wires? Is one way recommended over the other? Thanks.
If you can increase your charger's voltage then I think you should be fine up to 4.35V on a LiHv battery (if it will go that far). My understanding is that LiPo and LiHv both use CC + CV (constant current then switching to constant voltage) charging cycles, the only difference is the LiPo CV stage runs at 4.2V and LiHv CV stage runs at 4.35V. Personally I would set any adjustable charger for .02V under just so it goes faster and is a little safer. That last .02V runs at very low current and takes a long time for the amount of extra flight time it gives you plus if your charger isn't totally accurate it would help avoid overcharging damage.

Others with more experience with PH2.0 connectors should give you advice if it's really worthwhile to take the time to convert over. There are a lot of micro quad high performance batteries in PH2.0 so it may come down to if you fly micro quads with PH2.0 that can use the same battery size/shape as your K110 it would be nice to share batteries. Personally when I need to change a heli to a new connector I usually leave the old one in place and solder the new one to the same pads the old connector is on. That way I have both. The weight of the extra connector isn't as big of a deal as it used to be and I would rather have battery flexibility over absolute minimum weight, but that's a personal preference. One important issue is the thickness and length of the wires. I usually try to get connectors with 20AWG silicone wires, but sometimes have to settle for 22AWG. Avoid those cheap connectors with 24 or 26AWG wires. Also try to keep the wires reasonably short to avoid voltage drop, but don't go overboard and make them insanely short and prone to crash damage, short helps, but it's not a major difference if you're running big enough wires.
Last edited by BirdBarber; Feb 27, 2020 at 03:24 AM.
Feb 27, 2020, 05:55 AM
Registered User
I used a PH 2.0 connector which replaced the red JST which replaced the molex. my 1s batteries with the red JST connectors were done and I had quite a few HV tiny whoop batteries so I use them now. I would only use the PH 2.0 for 1s... for a 2s conversion use the red JST.
Feb 27, 2020, 09:41 AM
Registered User
looking at doing a 2s conversion, i have read the how to thread but wonder if it is worth going straight to the dd, or start with the 120 motor?
i have the right esc. i cant seem to find the sleeve to convert from 3mm to 2,5 and i threw out all my 3mm shaft stuff Also, durability is my highest priority, i like that the 1s i can just pop the gear back up the shaft, i wonder if the dd will sustain more damage in a crash. this is my real life flight sim to learn 3d stuff over grass. thanks
Feb 27, 2020, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuzmick
looking at doing a 2s conversion, i have read the how to thread but wonder if it is worth going straight to the dd, or start with the 120 motor?
i have the right esc. i cant seem to find the sleeve to convert from 3mm to 2,5 and i threw out all my 3mm shaft stuff Also, durability is my highest priority, i like that the 1s i can just pop the gear back up the shaft, i wonder if the dd will sustain more damage in a crash. this is my real life flight sim to learn 3d stuff over grass. thanks
Hi kuzmick,

2s conversion, dmd, tail hub on the main shaft, and brushless tail are all beneficial preferences. I did the 2s conversion for more headspeed, the brushless tail to eliminate the brushed motor and better tail authority, tail hub on the main shaft I'm looking at doing to the k110 as ptern did for his k130s, and the dmd mod is something most of us thought about for a while and it offers a lot of benefits compared to the gear system.

I got lucky finding the inserts or sleeves that I used. You could travel with a 2.5mm shaft to the hardware or plumbing store and see if they have inserts that fit. I would have preferred the true sized bearings or even the hcp100s driveline if I had one. Going 2s is a great step forward for more headspeed/power and that alone can enhance the k110 for better 3d.

Sure, the 2s won't crash the same as 1s and do more damage. I've had the 2s k120 motor setup for a while before going DMD and the main gear, FS, MS, bearings, main rotors, frame, and tail boom saw more damage with 2s. With the DMD, I anticipate less damage to the frame, main shaft, and bearings. And no more gears. Make the tail boom more robust from fractures. But, in a crash, what will break might break. It' up to you.

Ric...
Feb 27, 2020, 11:40 AM
Registered User
Thanks one that i have done is to ca a solid piece of cf inside the boom and route the wires outside, combined with the metal motor mount for the tail, think i will start with the 120 motor and keep looking for parts for the dd. i have the sunnysky motor on a plane, its nice and light but good torque. 16g without bullets.
Feb 27, 2020, 12:48 PM
Registered User
Yeah, I did the same with my boom, but i use a fine rod with ca. I ordered another sunnysky motor for another build. Was going with a cobra motor, but I like the torque with the sunnysky also.

My experience with the k120 motor build seems that the motor needs a loose mesh but not to loose. Or as the k120 esc does - high startup power. At times the the motor won't spin-up under-load, thus making it stutter trying to startup. Maybe the magnets weaken overtime or maybe they need to be solder directly to the esc instead of connectors. Hope, I don't have to go back.

Ric...
Feb 27, 2020, 06:05 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi_craig
stay away from those red units, they are crap.......... do a close up zoom of the parts, man they are rough as........

the XK black swash is very nice. Basically get the K120 swash etc, they come stock billet, nicely made.

for you guys in the US Motion RC is a good source of parts but i see they are out of the gen K120 swash units.
@Kiwi_craig, I'm looking for a metal upgrade after bending my plastic parts.

I know you said the red upgrade parts are crap, but I don't see many other options? Is there anything you can recommend or are we just stuck buying the inferior parts? I did see you said something about K124 parts but it looked like that was going to be pretty pricey to buy each part individually so probably not interested in that.

One thing I was confused about, I think you said K120 swash was better quality? It's currently out of stock but wouldn't it be basically the same part as the metal upgrade (I think they are both sold by XK?)

Here's the three I found that are currently available:

- https://www.motionrc.com/products/xk...d4080406&_ss=r (XK brand?)

- https://www.banggood.com/XK-K100-K11...l?rmmds=search (also XK brand?)

- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3268...archweb201603_ (Unknown brand?)


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