Okily Dokily Tim .. heres the new thread ..

never thought the other would have went that far ..

I'm here with ya, Hoss!

Ron, something I would like to see is how you do your motor mount inside. IF somewhere along the line you could show that I'd appreciate it. Doesn't have to be the Corsair, just a general outline.

Thanks
Martin

Ron, Lots of us watching--especially for lessons on wings and fuselages/motor mounts.
Thanks for your efforts!
Joe

Here is the Original Thread Address FanFold Corsair Build Thread Part 1

Thanks to all that have followed and Been So Patient ..

Welcome back Ron- we REALLY missed you.

My Bluecor bundle arrived from Kansas yesterday. VERY interesting stuff indeed!! I have the three main body pieces drying now. A bit rough on the joints, but I think I have a hang of the bending process. It is stiffer than I imagined. I cut the front part of the body template in half and retaped it so that the main body seam would be on the bottom. To me that looks better and has the stronger (heavier part) on the bottom of he plane where it should be. Does that make sense?

I peeled the plastic off the "inside" pieces (the printed side) from the panel before cutting out the body and glueing. It was not as hard as trying to strip sturdy board, but it was still a pain. Is there a technique for making the stripping easier? The unprinted side seems to be even harder to strip! Am I doing something wrong?? Am I supposed to leave it on? I would think you could not do the plaster fill technique if it is unstripped....

The bundle I have is pretty wavy and I've seen another thread (?) that says baking it can flatten it out- I'll need to do that for the rudder and elevator, right? Do you strip or not for the bake?

My CA-Orderless is RC Country branded, is supposed to be "white foam safe" but does not seem to do a very god job of glueing Bluecor. I know most (including Ron) use ZAP oderless, but RC Country only had thier brand . Am I doing something wrong? IT just does not seem to want to hold. It did a great job of glueing my fingers, especially when I used baking soda as a filler which also seemed to speed up the semi-bonding process to the point I could get tape and poly glue on.

The wing techniques are the only thing holding me up for this and future builds. I like the idea of baking the wing, but I do not have a wing jig. Is the camber shown on the body the right flyable camber for an under camber wing? Would I be better off with a folded wing (and more power)?

THX, Kirk

i use Zap because its what my local shop has .. another shop here has a gold label with the shops name on it .. .. i dont think brand matters a whole lot

the best way to use the odorless CA is to run a bead on one side of the 2 pieces to be put together then put the joint together and tape the joint while holding it tight.. let it sit for an hour or so .. and with bluecor , taping and CA less is more .. dont over do the glue .. it takes very little .. the more you put on the longer it takes to cure .. after you tape the joint is when i mix my polyurethane glue and water and put a bead on all joints i just glued .. i finish all joints first then polyurethane glue them all ..that way i dont waste any glue ..

I dont bake my wings to flatten them .. i live with the ripples .. when you sand to cover or paint they come out .. .. when you bake the wing in the Jig they come out in the forming process ..

Ron,

Maybe you could give a text explaination of the wings and the wing jig.

Andrew

that would be a Fiasco Andrew .. i am no good at explaining in written form . i do much better in pictures and video .. My buddy with the Vid cam is to busy to help out so i will look elsewhere..

Ron, the ZAP tip helped- I was using too much CA- thank you. I had a much easier time of it last night- body, nose and vert stab are together. I will need to fill as I have a bunch of gouges on the body on the cone part of the body. It is starting to look like something!

I had a few specific questions on the wings for you in the old thread while you were on vacation (apparently)....

ask away .. i thought i answered all the questions if i missed yours i apologize

Ron,

What technique do you use to attach the wing to the body? I went ahead and used the template wing location and cut in slots for the under camber wing. Seems to work, but I'd like to use the best known method in the future. I made sure it was level and even on the body.

I think I "get" how to work the camber of the wing now. I used the template wing attachment spot as a guide. I also created four ribs for each side of the gull bend, then set the angle on the small down part, cut apart the joint- shaped for the bend and attached. If you can picture the four segments of the wing apart, then at the bend, on each segment there is a rib which are then glued back to back to form the wing. This accomplished a few things: re-enforces the wing bend, stiffens the wing in general, and better holds the under-camber. My Gentle Lady glider used a similar technique for the wing panels to set the tip dihedral (and made the panels removable for the big glider wing). Not sure if this is the "right" way to do this, but it sems to work. If it is wrong, I can make another the right way once you get your wing procedure on tape.

The wings are not yet attached (but are "cut in") as I need to do a lot of fill on the body and did not want the wings to get in the way. I have also not done the vert stab yet as I'm not sure how to make sure to set the incidence properly. Do you have a good technique for ding that right?

I ended up with the back end (cone) half full (or more) of foamed glue. I didn't put all that much (I thought) in but it foamed like crazy. Is that a big problem??

BTW: current measurements-
29" wingspan, 22" tip to tail length.
Better than I thought- I think I'm in the optimal "ballpark"?

I highly recommend "inverting" the forward body section to put the joint on the bottom. That is working out very well making the top view much cleaner.

THX, Kirk

Originally Posted by Vyceroy

ask away .. i thought i answered all the questions if i missed yours i apologize

This is from the old thread:

Originally Posted by CaptKirk49

Ron,

From your scan of your wing template (thank you for that), it looks like the short part of the gull wing is longer than the Fiddler plans show. Is that because of two things:

1. You bake the camber in flat then cut in the angle and that eats up some foam?
2. Extra to project into the body of the plane to secure it? How far? Just the foam thickness (flush inside) or sticks in a ways, enough to bead up some probond on the inside??
3. Both or "other"??

I'm really hoping we can at least get some of these sorts of details even if you can't do pics or a movie...

Do you have a digital camera? Could I send you an older one that is 640 x480 (godd size for web uploads) but does do great macro pics (really close up)? Would that help?

that is my own drawing i redid it to fit my needs .. plus i think the slight extra helps the looks ... sometimes you have to exaggerate certain parts to get the desired looks .. its not a 100% scale plane .. i adjusted till i got the look i was looking for .. and i do join the wing together in the fuselage.. i epoxy it together then slide it through the slot in the fuselage .. before i glue the wing together in the center i use the root as a template to draw my slot onto the fuse sides .. make sure its even on both sides .. then i cut the wing slot with my exacto knife and slide the wing in .. it will be a bit tough with the anhedral in the wing but it will go if you work it slowly ..

when i have the wing set in evenly i mix up my probond and water till it turns milky and starts to expand then i run a bead around the wing slot on the inside top of the wing anf bottom also .. you may want to place some tape over any openings in the wing slot on the fuse outside so the glue wont expand and be a hassle to get off later ..

if you can put the whole thing outside in the heat and humidity of the day .. it will expand better and cure faster ..

i appreciate the offer on the camera Kirk but i cant accept .. mine will be back in 2 weeks and i will have to see if i can find one here local for sale .. maybe a pawn shop .. i need video capability .. my old one my nephew has is a Hewett packard 620 .. out dated by a long shot now.. but still takes great still photos..

I hate thread splitting because I always forget to join part two!