Newport 12 Meter Class - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Jun 20, 2017, 10:08 PM
Registered User
Saw also wondering same question ...

Was tempting ... but ... someone was faster on the draw ...

This yacht will require some work - since there was no mast or rigging - not a big deal beaker ... but at $250 ... lots of room to allow for this cost ... as well as ... sail winch n radio gear upgrades

Hoping to hear where this yacht ended up going to ... hope someone responds in this forum.
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Jun 20, 2017, 11:21 PM
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Newport 12


The Newport 12 has found a new home in Stamford, Ct.
Spoke with the EBay seller, it's on its way. Will keep the audience informed.
You never know what "pops up " on E bay!
The seller stated to me that he is liquidating an estate of a friend who passed away. Other boats , hardware, as well as some R/C aircraft are in his possession.
M Fusco
fuscoms@optimum.net
Jun 21, 2017, 12:43 AM
Registered User
Curious method of shipping ...
Hopefully arrives in good shape - since current condition was really good.

Hmm ... would have been easier for me to make the 40 minute drive up to Downey CA from Irvine CA ... vs ... shipping to Stamford CT
Jun 21, 2017, 08:14 AM
Registered User
msfusco - Just to let you know, I'm in Hull, MA and have two sailing N12's and a third on the bench....
Sep 11, 2017, 12:01 AM
Driven by Passion!

Newport 12 Meter - Hull #181 - New Owner!


Hi,

I just purchased Hull #181 this week. So excited. Attached is a photo. It sails but needs a little TLC.

Looking for any history on this boat. Does anyone know the manufacturer? This is an early boat with only 2 bulkheads forward of the main hatch, some old main servo board attachment points that are no longer used and the steering servo is still mounted on the main board. I believe the main winch is a Ozmun. I am thinking of changing this out to a Top Flange Gear servo from Servo City.

Which Top Flange servo Gear is best for the Newport 12, the 785 or 805 servo

Any help on where to buy and what to use for new standing and running rigging would be very helpful.
Sep 11, 2017, 12:51 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Dave.

I used the TM 400-180 "standard servo" sized Servo City gearbox on my Newport with a Hitec HS7950TH servo. So far it's worked flawlessly and has PLENTY of power. You can check out my build log of McClung hull #20 here. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...rt-12-20-build

I used Pekabe .6mm solid stainless wire for the standing rigging, with KDH quick release turnbuckles for the shrouds, and 65lb braided Spectra for the running rigging.

You should bring your boat out to El Dorado park on Sunday the 17th for the HMYC points races for the N12 class.

Kevin
Newport 12 #20
Last edited by poltergeist; Sep 11, 2017 at 01:36 AM.
Sep 11, 2017, 11:58 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana Pt Dave
Hi,

I just purchased Hull #181 this week. So excited. Attached is a photo. It sails but needs a little TLC.

Looking for any history on this boat. Does anyone know the manufacturer? This is an early boat with only 2 bulkheads forward of the main hatch, some old main servo board attachment points that are no longer used and the steering servo is still mounted on the main board. I believe the main winch is a Ozmun. I am thinking of changing this out to a Top Flange Gear servo from Servo City.

Which Top Flange servo Gear is best for the Newport 12, the 785 or 805 servo

Any help on where to buy and what to use for new standing and running rigging would be very helpful.

Check out Midwest Model Yachting for your rigging needs.. I have a large selection of SAILSetc rigging hardware. Here is a link: http://www.midwestmodelyachting.com/

Regards,
Brian
Sep 13, 2017, 02:18 AM
Dang!....What else did I bring
oletimer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana Pt Dave
Hi,

I just purchased Hull #181 this week. So excited. Attached is a photo. It sails but needs a little TLC.

Looking for any history on this boat. Does anyone know the manufacturer? This is an early boat with only 2 bulkheads forward of the main hatch, some old main servo board attachment points that are no longer used and the steering servo is still mounted on the main board. I believe the main winch is a Ozmun. I am thinking of changing this out to a Top Flange Gear servo from Servo City.

Which Top Flange servo Gear is best for the Newport 12, the 785 or 805 servo

Any help on where to buy and what to use for new standing and running rigging would be very helpful.
I don't how much help this will be....but I'll help you sail her when I see you Dave!
That is so funny as I'm looking into getting one as well....keep us posted on its progress.
Sep 13, 2017, 06:48 PM
Driven by Passion!

Need a part


Hi everyone,

I am looking for an original turnbuckle for the jumper stay. As you can see by the photo, I am missing one of the centers of the turnbuckle. If anyone has one and would be willing to part with it. It would be greatly appreciated.

If anyone knows of a part house that might still have one, please pass that information along.

Thanks,
Dave
Sep 13, 2017, 07:17 PM
Registered User
It's a Fisher, and by the look of the other one, one of the late ones after his machinery started getting old and sloppy. I'd replace both, but if you want one, PM me with the dimensions and your mailing address and I'll see if I have one. If I do, it will be one of the old sloppy ones.

I'd recommend Roger Cousineau, www.modelyachtfittings.com if you want to get a good duplicate of the Fisher turnbuckle.

Cheers,

Earl
Sep 14, 2017, 07:49 PM
Driven by Passion!
Thanks Earl,

I really appreciate the information.

Dave
Sep 15, 2017, 02:49 PM
Driven by Passion!

Hull #181


Tune up for Hull #181

Hull #181 is going in the water this weekend with a new skipper. While anxiously waiting for the weekend to sail, I have begun to change out most of the running rigging with new 80 lb white Spectra line. I am also working on the standing rigging with a combination of 60 lb AFW Black nylon covered 1x7 stainless steel line on the stays and shrouds and 45 lb AFW Black nylon covered 1x7 stainless steel line for the Jumper at the top of the mast. Sails are in good shape and the hull looks seaworthy.

Here are a few photos of the inside of the hull. There were 3 old blocks epoxied into the inside of the hull. Those have been cut out and it revealed the Hull # plate. Everything else on the inside is basically built to the original plans with only the two (2) forward bulkheads.

Soon I will rebuild the electronics plate to a more streamline setup. I cleaned up the ozmun sail winch and it seems to work just fine.

As we get a little closer to winter time, the Newport 12 will get dry docked and all the deck hardware stripped off. The hull will get sanded and filled and then it will be off to Wings West to bring a fresh look to this beautiful boat!

A special thanks to Earl for helping me locate a missing turnbuckle.

Dave
Sep 16, 2017, 12:41 PM
Registered User
SailingJunkie's Avatar
Beware of plastic coated wire. You will need to strip the plastic off where you want to crimp it. Otherwise it may slip under load.

SJ
Sep 16, 2017, 01:01 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
When I use vinyl coated wire, I crimp it with an extra pass through the crimp, as described here: http://www.okanaganmodelsailboat.org/Step-by-StepD.html

Never had one slip...that said I used solid wire and the Dubro Quik-Twist tool on my Newport.

Kevin
Newport 12 #20
Sep 16, 2017, 03:17 PM
Registered User

Crimping Plastic Coated Standing Rigging


There is an alternate theory about crimping (swaging) plastic coated standing rigging. By swaging only a simple loop in the end of the wire, and using a pair of side cutters to put a couple extra crimps in the swaging sleeve, one provides an attachment point that is more than strong enough for the loop to remain stable and do its job of holding and shaping the mast. However, the extra crimps weaken the plastic covering at a couple of places and allow a shock load (such as that of a T-bone collision) to pull the loop through the sleeve without breaking either the rigging or snapping/deforming a spar. This swaging approach then acts as a safety valve, and can allow quick re-swaging without replacing the stay or shroud, to allow you to continue sailing in the next heat without having to take a DNS to do a longer repair. When done sailing for the day, replacement of the shroud would be of course recommended.

I've had this specific experience more than you might think, as I often sail in fleets of newcomers who are learning boat handling, or "old comers" like me who are battling vision challenges.


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