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May 04, 2019, 11:08 PM
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Just prototyping the chassis for the HG axles and Axial SCX10 suspension links. This is the maximum amount of angle the Y links give before binding. I have 100 mm shocks fitted and these give a maximum compression of 25 mm.
The chassis is made up from parts as the maximum width alloy I have is 40 mm, hence everything is designed to be cut from this. I will be using the HSP gearbox and motor mount, as I have one knocking about, which will mount up front under the hood/ bonnet if your English. Because the middle chassis plate is a lot bigger than the HG plate the drive shafts hit this plate which is why I have not used the HG gearbox and not the HG one I have.
I have built 2 earlier prototype chassis which although they would do the job I wanted to get the body down as low as possible on the chassis. I have also had to modify the chassis to push the body back slightly to match the wheel arches. As it is now there are no body cuts to be made to fit this chassis. The wheel base now fits even better under suspension compression. I have ended up with a 310 mm wheel base, at full suspension length. In case anyone wondered I use MDF to prototype with as it is cheap, quick and easy to work with on my CNC router. Saves a lot when you make mistakes as I have been known to do. All I need to do is finish my metal cutting router to cut out the chassis parts.
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May 11, 2019, 08:29 PM
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Well since I was fooling around with the Jeep I let myself get sucked into buying some metal Axial scx10 parts, it wasn't too much of a struggle! I did say this hobby is addictive did't I.
So here is a prototype chassis for my rendition of a Capo Ace 1. So far I have 5% of the Capo price into this one. I decided against the fake rack and pinion steering and won't be fitting air shocks or diff lockers. This will be the poor mans special. I'm looking at getting a plate of carbon to cut the chassis from. Failing the carbon option then a sheet of alloy will be used. For the body panels I will form them out of old soft drink bottles over moulds. Until the 2.0 wheels and tire arrive these are temporary wheels to get me building. I have 130 mm shocks fitted but also have 100 mm shocks that can be swapped out if required later. The 130's gives me 40 mm of travel.
I have a 5:1 planetary gearbox in transit for this one which runs through the center spliter box as seen in the pictures.

The prototype work has finished for the Jeep and I'm waiting for the time to make the chassis arts. I have used a HSP gearbox and motor mount and have been able to get the unit under the hood. So far there has been no removal of the body plastic to fit the 5 door Jeep body, which was what I set out to do.
May 13, 2019, 09:52 AM
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SilbernerSurfer's Avatar
May someone point me to the main thread of the HG P402, pleas? I cant find it via search engine or google!
Jun 01, 2019, 01:39 AM
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Boujou tcheu vaou !!(French Normand language)
Hello everyone !!
I come back to this forum because I bought a HG-P601 again.
I'm French, so I have a little trouble translating and understanding the posts, but the pictures will help me.
See you soon for other publications
Jun 09, 2019, 12:42 AM
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I had the chance to get another Jeep Wrangler hard body, so jumped at. I wanted to build the JK8 Independence in doing so have shelved the Capo project.
Here is the progress so far. I have built 2 chassis one for the Jeep Wrangler standard 5 door configuration and the second for the JK8. Basically the same chassis but running totally different running gear.
The standard Jeep has the previously modified HG metal axles with Axial SCX10 suspension mounts and centre plate sitting on 100 mm shocks. The JK8 has all Axial SCX10 metal axles and centre plate sitting on 130 mm shocks.
I have used up the spares laying around the workshop which gave me a HSP gearbox for the Wrangler and a planetary gearbox for the JK8, both with brushed 540 motors. The Wrangler has a rewound motor that I previously wound and used in model ships, slow running with lots of torque. The standard motor is on the planetary gearbox which is a 5:1 running through a splitter box for the JK8.
Most of the cutting of the donor Jeep has been done and I now have to glue it into the components required to fit the lower body. Then inner rear needs to be cut out and a deck/tray needs to be made and fitted. In cutting the inner rear I will be cutting out the fender mounts so these will have to be glued on when the body is painted and finished. Once all the body mods have been done then the filling the joints and handle depressions will be done. It is relatively easy to cut up the body and the roof matches up reasonably well. I took some time to consider what and where to cut as a wrong cut would mean scrap bin or a lot of filler!
If anybody wants to try one themselves I can give the cut positions if required. All my cutting was done with a marquetry hand saw and a hobby saw would do but I don't have one.
Jun 09, 2019, 12:54 AM
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For the standard Jeep Wrangler this is the chassis and body. I ordered both as painted kits and only decided which one was to be the donor car when they arrived. Just in case one had a disgusting paint job. As it was both had a good paint jobs so I elected to convert the red one as the red paint I could match, the green paint I couldn't match so it remained as is. Strange how one had the blacked out grill while the other was body coloured, both supposed to be blacked out. The JK8 will have the angry grill fitted if I can bend it to fit the curvature as the screw points don't pull it into place properly. I'll try a heat gun and some muscle. I have the intention of modifying the engine hood with something I hope to be able to knock-up on my cnc router, hopefully!
You may be able to see the JK8 has a 5.0 lipo where as the Wrangler has a 2.2 lipo both 3 cells. Must remember to install low voltage alarms for these trucks, in fact all of my trucks.
Jun 23, 2019, 02:00 AM
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been a long time so i needed to update

Jul 20, 2019, 09:08 PM
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The body is just about finished bar tidying up around the side windows. The graphics have been designed ready for printing. I have lights, sound and winch to wire up, all controlled through my radio system, I'm waiting on heat shrink to arrive. I'll need to make and fit some side steps when permanently mounting the body, a;though if this was full size you might need a step ladder to get on board! The hood moulding is just sitting there until I grind down the edges for a smooth transition and the lumps existing on the hood. The moulding is somewhat chunky around the edges and it will also need to be heated and moulded to the curved hood shape. The angry grill moulding required bending to fit and in this case I have had to apply loads of glue and filler to get the smooth transition I wanted. I wouldn't bother fitting this moulding again, they are moulded flat and not to the curve of the grill. Despite heating to mould to the grill shape it never really did the job. The hood moulding is made of a different plastic and is easy to heat and reshape. This one arrived broken and seriously bent from manufacturing. The seller was good and has replaced it with a good one, flat.
It rides on dual 130 mm shocks at each corner as singles struggled with all the weight of the metal planetary gearbox and splitter box. It is a relatively heavy model and gives a realistic look with slightly sagging tires.
I have been building a roof rack for my 6x6 Landrover pick up. It is now finished and waiting until I mount some larger wheel arches. The rack has 6 front spotlights and 2 rear lights for working under. I have set about upgrading all my trucks to metal rims and doing any mod's I think of.

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