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Cool
RS90 : The Ultimate Indoor FPV Quad
The RS90 is a 90mm brushless fpv quad designed to be the ultimate indoor/proximity flyer. Full propeller protection and a tiny form factor (4” x 6” flying size) turn any location into an fpv playground without having to worry about leaving prop marks everywhere. Despite a slightly heavier flying weight compared to the typical quadcopter in this size class, brushless power (thanks to lktrsmg and overskyrc) produces around 60g(@8.0V) thrust for a total thrust to weight ratio of 3.5!
      V3 Build: Components: -dp03 7800kV motors -kiss 12A escs -hubsan three blade propellers -afromini rev 3 (requires USB to serial adapter for setup) -lemonrx dsmx satellite -fpvhobby 5V step up/step down -banggood 600tvl 170 degree camera -fpvhobby tx5810-100 vtx -fpvhobby cloverleaf antenna Dry Weight (in lightest configuration): 54g *Please note that the afromini rev 3 will not allow satellite receiver binding without modification. Use a ppm receiver like the alternate build below for easy binding or bind the satellite to your transmitter before installation using either a standard spektrum receiver or another flight controller. Alternate V3 Build: Components: -dp03 7800kV motors -xm10a escs -hubsan three blade propellers -afromini rev 3 -orange r415x -pololu 500mA 5V step down -readymaderc pico wide camera -FX758-2 5.8Ghz video transmitter -vas bluebeam antenna Dry Weight (in lightest configuration): 58g Battery options: Nanotech 260mAh 2S  AUW: 70g Thrust/weight ratio: ~3.5:1 Flight time: ~3 min aggressive flight (note that flight times vary with flying style) Lumenier 500mAh 2S  AUW: 84g Thrust/weight ratio: ~2.9:1 Flight time: ~7min of light flying (with HM830 props) Other options: -Nanotech 450mAh 2S (needs a JST PH adapter) -Nanotech 300mAh 2S -Nanotech 950mAh 2S ___________________________________________ Want an RS90? RC-drones has everything from frames to bind and fly quads here STL files for printing ___________________________________________ Thread Index and Resources -Build guide: RS90buildguide -Build pictures: -brianc93-PIDs -Taranis and Cleanflight settings/files ___________________________________________ Build/Maintenance Tips -Please pay attention to where you store the quad. The nylon plate will take a lot of abuse when stored in at least ~40% relative humidity, but may be fragile when dried out. It should be very flexible, so if you feel stiffness or hear minor cracking then it's too dry! Leave it in a moist enough environment for at least a day or two before flying if you suspect that it's been dried out. -Friction fit props need to be tight to stay on for extended periods of time at higher rpm's. The easiest way to install props without damage is to keep the motor from rotating by gripping it through the motor pod and rotating the prop back and forth as you apply pressure onto the shaft. Leave ~1-2mm between the prop hub and the motor bell for longer lasting props that'll be easier to remove when needed. ___________________________________________ History There have been three versions of the RS90: Version 1:    Components: -dp03 6500kV motors -kiss 12a escs -pocket quad props -afromini fc -frsky d4r-II -surveilzone micro 600tvl ($20 version) -fpvhobby tx5810-100 vtx -vas bluebeam -micro minim osd -3x pololu 5V step down -nanotech 450mah 2S AUW: 92g Version 2:    Components: -dp03 7800kV motors -kiss 12A escs -pocketquad props -afromini fc -orangerx r110 -pololu 3.3V step down -pololu 5V step down -banggood hd 700tvl camera w/ surveilzone 120 degree lens -FX758-2 200mw vtx -vas bluebeam antenna AUW: 77g(nt260) / 87g(nt450) Notable design considerations and improvements from versions 1 and 2: -full prop guards mean you’ll almost never break props, saving money and time from balancing/drilling new props -pusher props with zero obstruction downstream for slightly higher efficiency, better prop protection in forward flight, and a smaller chance of props flying off as they lose grip on the motor shaft -narrow as possible motor to motor width (dimension orthogonal to the quads forward direction of travel) to fly through the tightest gaps -motors are completely surrounded by the frame, making it impossible for them to take a direct hit -plastic (currently nylon) is soft and flexible making it less likely to damage surroundings, which is more important indoors -frame rear weight bias to balance out the relatively large camera platform in front -motors mounts pushed outside of the frame to allow the use of lower profile 12mm standoffs (originally used 18mm which requires a f/f and m/f standoff) while still maintaining decent ground clearance -integrated battery mount which provides support in the horizontal plane, preventing battery vibrations in flight -slightly undersized motor screw holes for a sort of integrated nyloc. I found that screws would vibrate loose with correctly sized holes |
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Last edited by brianc93; Sep 07, 2016 at 10:23 AM.
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Video Archive
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Last edited by brianc93; Apr 29, 2016 at 01:06 PM.
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Thanks!
It depends how things go. I definitely want people w/ printers to be able to print their own, but the final version is going to be optimized for nylon, which is risky to print with the typical peek hotend. And it might come out too weak with abs. There aren't many spots to increase infill percentage either. We'll see though, I'll try and figure something out. |
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PLA is likely too brittle. A previous version printed in abs weighed 18.5g and was still breaking doing the style of flying in that video. I'm thinking about making and releasing a different version designed to be a lot more flexible in terms of slicing. People should be able to tune infill to the desired strength based on the material being printed, which means flyable frames should then be able to be printed in ABS and PLA. Comparable frames in ABS/PLA will likely be heavier than the nylon version, but if you have your own printer, you can print your own replacements anyways. Would anyone be interested in that?
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Brian,
I am not familiar with the motors you're using. But 60 g isn't much, though it's a good improvement over an 0820-15 coreless motor turning Hubsan props (which are only 55 mm long). What size prop are you using? If your airframe can support 3" props, and can mount an RX1104 (from RotorX), you'll get a lot more thrust than that. I was communicating with a guy down under who's experimenting with using ducts as prop guards as you're using rings. What he found was significant improvement in thrust, provided he printed the ducts with good tolerances (he was working with quads more than twice the size you're working with though). I do hope you release the files, not only so others can print them, but so I can learn how to load it into CAD software so I can modify it for my experiments with ducted fans with annular wings around the top of each duct. I recall one of your posts in which you mentioned possibly making a hex, and I'd encourage you to do so, just to see how well it works, but I would add a Y6 or X8 (the purpose of the extra motors being in part to improve payload so you can, e.g. carry better FPV gear or a bigger battery (for longer flights). If you don't, I will, in due course, after I learn how to use CAD software and a 3D printer. (so much to learn, and so little time). For the question "Why?" the best answers appear to be "because you can" followed by "why not. You've done some good, and interesting, work in this. |
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Quote:
I didn't use ducts because they naturally stabilize the quad in motion and limit top speed. I wanted this quad to be as nimble as possible with the added weight of the guards. Not to mention ducts would likely add more weight over rings while becoming more fragile. Might work nicely for the micro ap quad though. I'll probably release a modified STL for abs and pla if enough people are interested, but I'm not currently planning on releasing the CAD file. Either way I think you would have an easier time starting fresh. The rings really don't have much in common with an optimally shaped duct so I'm not quite sure how it'd be modified. If I had unlimited time and resources then no doubt I would build everything that came to mind, but just this quad alone has taken awhile to get flying properly. Not to mention building so many different setups is really expensive. A Y6 or X8 version would definitely be interesting though. I might give it a shot when I get the time. You can buy a set of 4 with a LKTR120 frame for $100, so $25 each plus you get an LKTR120 if you decide to swap the components over. If you look at the pricing though, it drops pretty fast with volume. We really just need another retailer to start buying in bulk. |
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