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Old Feb 24, 2004, 10:30 PM
Uttam1 is offline
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Nice work Billy! I seem to have a funny problem with my programmed ( JDM ), I tried burning Koichi's TX code onto the PIC 12c509A, it tok ages, and then said verify failed at address 000h! The device was blank before writing. I then tried a 16f84, and it wrote the code perfectly! My OS is Windowz XP Professional, I use IC-Prog to interface with the programmer, does anyone know what's happening, or has anyone else had such problems?

Thanks,-Uttam
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Old Feb 24, 2004, 10:46 PM
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Try your chip it may work, I had this
problem and was told by someone on list
to go to hardware interface under ic-prog
and select API rather than Direct IO.
this worked for me.
Old Feb 25, 2004, 12:21 AM
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Uttam Pat and Rick
Thanks I was just seeing if I could drill a hole in some 26AWG copper wire I had the idea I could make some really lightweight homemade plugs.

Uttam
I have had the same thing happen when programming RXs. When I got the address failed at 000h error I checked my connection from PIC pins to the pins on the JDM programmer most of the time it was a bad connection. Another thing you might want to check is your zener diodes. I replaced my diodes with ones that came off the shelf at Radio Shack. If you do have a good connection with your PIC to DIP adapter and the chip doesnt work when you plug it into the TX and you have replaced the zeners then you might also want to check your transistors hfe. But as Joe says it may work fine.

Has anyone built a working JDM programmer with the zener diodes on the Digikey partslist?

Allthough I may have messed up my Digikey diodes when I had the pins wrong on the transistors.

Billy
Last edited by billystiltner; Feb 25, 2004 at 12:26 AM.
Old Feb 25, 2004, 12:59 AM
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Uttam,

It seems that writing may not be exactly made depending on the kind of PIC unless the power supply supply to a JDM programmer from PC is enough. Supposing you use the cable for the connection with a writer from PC, please remove the cable and use direct, connecting a writer to PC. A good result may be obtained.

Koichi
Old Feb 25, 2004, 01:40 AM
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One little trick I use for my prototypes :
Solder the piece of wire first on the side where it will be under a component.
Then put the PCB on a piece of glass, and solder the wire on the other side, while keeping the PCB flat against the glass. In this manner, the solder will melt also on the bottom side and be flattened to the thickness of the wire. No need to file down. Of course, always use a clean and sharpened iron tip and the very minimum amount of solder. Tinning the whole PCB beforehand, then removing the solder with solder wick helps a good job, as well as pretinning the wire used for through holes. Works for me
Old Feb 25, 2004, 03:28 AM
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Dud diodes, a quick and dirty check


Billy,

You may already know this.

A crude method of testing diodes is to test forward and reverse resistance using a multimeter. With my analogue meter it can usually drive the diode when in the forward conduction mode, but shows no conduction when the connection to diode is reversed. When you considered the polarity of transistors you can use the method check the bipolar types as well.

Cheers,

Johnny
Old Feb 25, 2004, 11:42 AM
Uttam1 is offline
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Joe, Billy, Koichi, Thanks for all your inputs. There seemed to be a bug with the IC-Prog I had installed. I downloaded a different version, it's working fine, and guess what, all the pics I wrote are fine Good excuse to build more IR units, eh?

I'm going to start work on the RX now. Got a couple of small sensors, but the leads are more or less at the rear surface of the detector ( Offset to the rear ), dunno how I'll sand them. Do the sensors with the "oval" globe work at wider ranges than the spherical globes?

-Thanks,
Uttam
Old Feb 25, 2004, 09:34 PM
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Uttam,

It is unsuitable when it carries the sensor of an oval lens, and a spherical sensor in an indoor plane. The infrared light of the large range is receivable by shaving off a lens.

Koichi
Old Feb 25, 2004, 10:25 PM
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Thanks Koichi, Prashanth had mentioned this, I thought he was joking I just tested the DIP RX and TX, all working fine!

Thanks,
-Uttam
Old Feb 26, 2004, 10:35 AM
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Another IR/RX


Here's a drawing of a IR/RX based on the Z-Tron system. I have the old system and started playing and came up with this cleaned up version of the frankenstein system i have. It has a really low part count and should be suitable for really light weight flyers.
Currently i'm using the Z-Tron TX and original PIC's Once i learn how to program a PIC i'll really start rockin!



Greg
Old Feb 26, 2004, 11:56 PM
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Uttam
Be careful when sanding the back of the oval sensor.
I sanded mine as close as the Panasonic sensor and it broke when I was grinding the legs. Maybe grind the legs firstr and connect your wires then leave about .3mm on the back and only sand it to .15mm thick total. This is asuming you can sand it as thin as the Panasonic sensors.

gbarc
Thanks for the schematics.


Billy
Old Feb 27, 2004, 01:14 AM
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Greg,

you should add a Schottky diode at the motor terminals, and perhaps also a capacitor.

Regards, Jochen
Old Feb 27, 2004, 09:57 AM
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Jberg,
Yep, your right i forgot to add the cap betwwen the sensor leads.

Billy,

No problem



Greg
Old Feb 27, 2004, 10:07 AM
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Super lightweight IR RX


The 3 channel receiver containing a sensor is only 0.25g!

sensor:0.09g
board:0.16g

Koichi
Old Feb 27, 2004, 10:09 AM
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Updated Scematic


I've updated the schematic with the CAP added between sensor leads.


Greg


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