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Jul 22, 2015, 04:10 PM
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Multirotor Go's Avatar
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Mini-HowTo

Cheerson CX-10 Swappable battery Mod.


I always knew, even before getting CX-10, that this day would come. Stock battery life ended, so the swappable mod day arrived. Is not an unsolder, then plug and play mod. It needs a jumper to be soldered, very difficult to do for somebody new to soldering. I have just a little experience gained from the quadcopter hobby.

I didn't make this modification to fly it battery after battery, I am not interested in shortening the life of the motors, motors need to cool down.
I did it because since my collection has grown I don't have the time to fly all of them and Lipo batteries when not used very frequently and stored full charged they die.

So this modification is intended to be able to have just a couple of this batteries full charged and ready to be used and use them with whatever quadcopter I want to fly in my collection that uses the same size of battery.

This is a blue board, not sure if it works exactly the same on other boards.

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Jul 22, 2015, 05:15 PM
Crash and learn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Multirotor Go
I always knew, even before getting CX-10, that this day would come. Stock battery life ended
Well done.

Reports say new batteries will not fit as replacements. What you did may be the only way to make CX-10 fly again.

The soldered wire jumper connects the charging plug (+) to the CX10 circuit board (+) where battery used to be. The jumper can also go from that switch contact to the nearby place where the ON/OFF switch metal case corner tab is soldered. The ON/OFF switch metal case is always connected to battery (+) and is also used to feed battery (+) to the two motors on left side, so connecting that switch contact to the ON/OFF switch metal case corner tab is a bit better balanced for feeding all motors as the motors draw nearly all battery current.

Next video (please) is how you charge the battery, which may not have a battery protection circuit board (and charging circuit) like the original CX-10 battery.
Last edited by Ribble; Jul 22, 2015 at 06:17 PM.
Jul 22, 2015, 07:11 PM
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Multirotor Go's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble
Well done.

Reports say new batteries will not fit as replacements. What you did may be the only way to make CX-10 fly again.

The soldered wire jumper connects the charging plug (+) to the CX10 circuit board (+) where battery used to be. The jumper can also go from that switch contact to the nearby place where the ON/OFF switch metal case corner tab is soldered. The ON/OFF switch metal case is always connected to battery (+) and is also used to feed battery (+) to the two motors on left side, so connecting that switch contact to the ON/OFF switch metal case corner tab is a bit better balanced for feeding all motors as the motors draw nearly all battery current.

Next video (please) is how you charge the battery, which may not have a battery protection circuit board (and charging circuit) like the original CX-10 battery.

do you have diagram to see the point you are mentioning? You will lose the possibility to use the on off switch doing it that way right?

I still use the switch. I plug the battery there for transportation so is kind of convenient to be able to use it.

Yes new after market batteries do not fit well in there, because the protective circuit is soldered in a way that is not as tight as the one that comes inside.

The batteries I got for Cheerson cx 10 and that are also for hubsan proto x or h111, if I remember correctly the name and for ls111 and ls123 have the circuit.

Sadly for me all the other ones I have bought from 250mah, the blue ones for hubsan sold in banggood 380mah and other have not come with the protective circuit.
I actually just have been sending banggood long emails explaining the problem to not write a big red warning on the batteries description page that do not come with the circuit. It is very dangerous, but they are not aware of the problem. I am waiting for other batteries that I bought at the same time, that actually come with a usb charger. So if those also do not come with the circuit and they sell it with an USB charger that is just a big dangerous accident ready to happen. I have explained to them that people can die because of this is a very serious problem.

The thing is that vendors are not aware that the supplier is sending them batteries with out the circuit.

I do have a professional charger but still don't understand very well how to use it and also for my style of flying, or the times I have to fly, the convenience to be able to charge a battery while I am using another one is what has kept me away from the professional charger, because I will need to have more batteries charged, use them all and then wen all of them are empty charge them together. May be I just need to get used to this.

For this little battery I use the Yizhan X4 usb charger that has to plugs for this type of batteries.
Last edited by Multirotor Go; Jul 22, 2015 at 07:17 PM.
Jul 22, 2015, 07:19 PM
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Multirotor Go's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble
Well done.

Reports say new batteries will not fit as replacements. What you did may be the only way to make CX-10 fly again.

The soldered wire jumper connects the charging plug (+) to the CX10 circuit board (+) where battery used to be. The jumper can also go from that switch contact to the nearby place where the ON/OFF switch metal case corner tab is soldered. The ON/OFF switch metal case is always connected to battery (+) and is also used to feed battery (+) to the two motors on left side, so connecting that switch contact to the ON/OFF switch metal case corner tab is a bit better balanced for feeding all motors as the motors draw nearly all battery current.

Next video (please) is how you charge the battery, which may not have a battery protection circuit board (and charging circuit) like the original CX-10 battery.

Oh doing this I discovered my board does not have the antenna. It seems this is always rue for the blue board. I have never tested how far it goes like this.
Jul 22, 2015, 07:57 PM
Crash and learn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Multirotor Go
do you have diagram to see the point you are mentioning? You will lose the possibility to use the on off switch doing it that way right?
The CX-10 ON/OFF switch metal case is always connected to battery (+). The jumper can be a single strand of wire 3mm long. Electrically it is the same as what you did.

The antenna is the zig-zag pattern on the edge opposite the ON/OFF switch.


NOTE: The last photo shows two corners of ON/OFF switch metal case soldered to two pins on switch. May as well do it right to avoid later troubles. The switch center pin foil runs under the switch to the top switch corner on the photo right, which is connected to Battery (+) by the ON/OFF switch metal case. Adding the switch center pin directly connects the right side motors to the left side motors to the charging plug.

Well, if you like the last photo, then can go a step farther and extend the jumper (skipping switch right pin) to the two ON/OFF switch metal case corners on the right of photo. Note that the four corners are connected, but not directly connected except by the ON/OFF switch metal case. On photo right, one corner goes to the left motors and other corner goes to left LEDs (more or less). So, if left side of CX-10 does not work, resolder the ON/OFF switch metal case four corner tabs. There is a ground foil running between photo left metal case tabs, under the switch, along the outer edge, up to the missing switch pin, then exits between the two metal case tabs on photo right, and this means there is no foil patterns for battery (+). Anyway, the four corner tabs of the ON/OFF switch metal case are good for bad solder joints and future trouble.

If you connect all three switch pins, then CX-10 will always be turned on when a battery is connected.

When plugging a battery into the CX-10 charging plug, the Battery (+) last photo is distributed from the ON/OFF switch left pin, so left side of jumper feeds right side motors and right side of jumper feeds left side motors and higher currents are divided directly and equally. Recommend thin single strand bare wire four point jumper in last photo.
Last edited by Ribble; Jul 22, 2015 at 10:30 PM.
Jul 22, 2015, 08:09 PM
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Multirotor Go's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble
The CX-10 ON/OFF switch metal case is always connected to battery (+). The jumper can be a single strand of wire 3mm long. Electrically it is the same as what you did.

The antenna is the zig-zag pattern on the edge opposite the ON/OFF switch.
Oh yes Though you meant that but wasn't sure. The thing is that is so difficult to solder those little things, that to solder to the old big chunk of solder from the other + battery spot was easier.

Zigzag thing, but is possile to solder a wire antenna right. I think I saw a diagram about it somewhere
Jul 22, 2015, 08:28 PM
Crash and learn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Multirotor Go
Zigzag thing, but is possile to solder a wire antenna right. I think I saw a diagram about it somewhere
Add another antenna, 31.25mm of bare wire. Easier to solder a longer length of wire, then cut to 31.25mm.

Papajeff added antenna.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2309
Last edited by Ribble; Jul 22, 2015 at 10:10 PM.
Jul 22, 2015, 09:15 PM
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Multirotor Go's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble
Add another antenna, 31.25mm of bare wire. Easier to solder a longer length of wire, then cut to 31.25mm.

Papajeff added antenna.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2309
Thanks

UFF scary
I will give it some thought, at the moment I had no problems. I will do some test to see how war it flies. I usually flight very close so maybe I don't need it.
Jul 22, 2015, 11:21 PM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
Nice MulitrotorGo! very good mod!

btw, what kind of differences have you observed running the H7 props?
Jul 23, 2015, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychlic
Nice MulitrotorGo! very good mod!

btw, what kind of differences have you observed running the H7 props?

mmm not sure, I think it flies better, little bit faster, but maybe is all in my mind, but I do like it and I think I will continue to use them, I will buy more.

But I think they are more tough then the originals, I have not broke or damage any of this ones on the cx10 I would like to read your thoughts about this combination.
They do need a little bit of sanding but almost nothing, something very light.
Jul 23, 2015, 12:40 AM
Fan of just about anything RC
SoloProFan's Avatar
Do you have a link to the battery? I'm trying to make a comprehensive thread listing battery options for popular small rtf quads: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...9#post32125648
Latest blog entry: For the love of the hobby!
Jul 23, 2015, 01:17 AM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Multirotor Go
mmm not sure, I think it flies better, little bit faster, but maybe is all in my mind, but I do like it and I think I will continue to use them, I will buy more.

But I think they are more tough then the originals, I have not broke or damage any of this ones on the cx10 I would like to read your thoughts about this combination.
They do need a little bit of sanding but almost nothing, something very light.
well, like the ole boy says. if it works don't fix it
It does look like they work well for you. I would have thought that since the H7 is a bit larger that the props would be too long for the CX-10.
so was it the blade tips you sanded to make them shorter so, they wouldn't touch each other?

Other than the oem props, I have only tried the Hubsan props, that have the same blade size, but with the longer hubs, and they did not work too well for me, unless the hubs were cut down like Ribble recommended.
I don't really have much complaint with the oem props for CX-10, but is is good to find other options and experiment. I will have try them out.
Jul 23, 2015, 01:24 AM
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Multirotor Go's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychlic
well, like the ole boy says. if it works don't fix it
It does look like they work well for you. I would have thought that since the H7 is a bit larger that the props would be too long for the CX-10.
so was it the blade tips you sanded to make them shorter so, they wouldn't touch each other?

Other than the oem props, I have only tried the Hubsan props, that have the same blade size, but with the longer hubs, and they did not work too well for me, unless the hubs were cut down like Ribble recommended.
I don't really have much complaint with the oem props for CX-10, but is is good to find other options and experiment. I will have try them out.
Yes horrible results with the longer hubs I also find that in other quads, the really long hubs work better if cut.

Yes you need to sand the tips, but is minimal is like just taking some little dust really. This gin h7 props work very well on UDI u840 too, but didn't have good results on LS111 - LS123.


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