ZMR 250 PDB by SimplePDB - Multiple OSD's - very flexible - Page 129 - RC Groups
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Sep 10, 2017, 06:13 PM
Need more props..........
Oso Grande's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenjancef
Wow... the first post in over 3 months... I hope someone is still around to answer my question/issue...

So I got the PDB wired up exactly like the video, with the voltage regulators and such, and soldered on the ESC's. Then I soldered on the battery connector and fired it up. ESC made their tones and no magic smoke...

So I'm ready to connect my FC (SP Racing F3) and, lucky for me, I listened to just about everyone here and used a multimeter to check voltages. The weird thing is that I get 16V (minus decimals) to both Lipo connectors and all 4 ESC's. any other place on the PDB that I'm supposed to get either 5V or 12V reads 0.0000. What did I do wrong? I took my time soldering, and I think I did a pretty good job at soldering the pins for the regulators. I just don't know what I did wrong.

Oh, by the way, I'm using a 4S 1400mAH battery.

For now, to get this build finished, I am going to piggy-back off of one of the Lipo connectors and use a 5V step-down to power my FC.

Any thoughts?
Did you install the inductor and capacitor?

Pics of your setup would help as well.
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Sep 11, 2017, 02:34 PM
Experienced Noob
kenjancef's Avatar
Sorry for the delay... yes, I installed the inductor and capacitor. Does the inductor have a +/-? I couldn't tell. I am attaching pictures. Anything with either 12v or 5v has no power. It was a pain getting the plates together, so I didn't want to have to rip it apart unless I have to. I got away with connecting the VTx to an active 16.8v connection, since it can take up to 20v, and I'm powering my camera through the VTx. So the only thing left was the FC, and I just got delivered today a 5v step down converter that I can connect to one of the Lipo rails. I wont have the buzzer working but that's ok.

Also, the way I did the XT60 connector had me expose the wires, so I shot some hot glue on it to cover it up. There were no bridging at all. I guess if there was, the whole thing would be fried.

So to close... I am definitely not looking for a replacement, especially since it was purchased a while ago. And at the price, I can certainly buy another one. But hoping I can get around that...
Sep 11, 2017, 02:55 PM
Need more props..........
Oso Grande's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenjancef
Sorry for the delay... yes, I installed the inductor and capacitor. Does the inductor have a +/-? I couldn't tell. I am attaching pictures. Anything with either 12v or 5v has no power. It was a pain getting the plates together, so I didn't want to have to rip it apart unless I have to. I got away with connecting the VTx to an active 16.8v connection, since it can take up to 20v, and I'm powering my camera through the VTx. So the only thing left was the FC, and I just got delivered today a 5v step down converter that I can connect to one of the Lipo rails. I wont have the buzzer working but that's ok.

Also, the way I did the XT60 connector had me expose the wires, so I shot some hot glue on it to cover it up. There were no bridging at all. I guess if there was, the whole thing would be fried.

So to close... I am definitely not looking for a replacement, especially since it was purchased a while ago. And at the price, I can certainly buy another one. But hoping I can get around that...
You're soldering does look solid. Do me a favor and check voltage on both sides of the inductor. Both sides will be Positive, so just use any ground pad on the board to check voltage at each side of the inductor. The inductor itself does not have a positive/negative side, it's just a coil of wire. My guess is you've got a bad inductor that isn't transmitting power from beginning to end.

edited to add: You could also just check continuity between the two inductor pads. If there isn't continuity, replace the inductor.
Sep 11, 2017, 05:28 PM
Experienced Noob
kenjancef's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Grande
You're soldering does look solid. Do me a favor and check voltage on both sides of the inductor. Both sides will be Positive, so just use any ground pad on the board to check voltage at each side of the inductor. The inductor itself does not have a positive/negative side, it's just a coil of wire. My guess is you've got a bad inductor that isn't transmitting power from beginning to end.

edited to add: You could also just check continuity between the two inductor pads. If there isn't continuity, replace the inductor.
Thanks for the reply. I'll report back in a few hours, currently out and about.

I'm new to inductors... what would I replace it with if I had to? Assume I just Google it and find something like it? Guess it's time to read up on something new... lol
Sep 11, 2017, 08:50 PM
Experienced Noob
kenjancef's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Grande
You're soldering does look solid. Do me a favor and check voltage on both sides of the inductor. Both sides will be Positive, so just use any ground pad on the board to check voltage at each side of the inductor. The inductor itself does not have a positive/negative side, it's just a coil of wire. My guess is you've got a bad inductor that isn't transmitting power from beginning to end.

edited to add: You could also just check continuity between the two inductor pads. If there isn't continuity, replace the inductor.
OK, so I checked the pads... if you're looking at the PDB as in my pictures, with the inductor on top, and the capacitor below, the left inductor pad reads 16.5v (battery has been used a lot for testing...), but the right pad shoots up to 32v. I'm using one of the ESC grounds for the negative.

So I;d unfortunately say that the inductor is messed up somehow. I didn't want to have to take it all apart, but I guess I'm going to have to. So any suggestions for a replacement inductor? I haven't had the chance to Google yet.

Thanks for the help!!
Sep 11, 2017, 08:52 PM
Experienced Noob
kenjancef's Avatar
Maybe this for a replacement?

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Toroid.../dp/B00EZC5XVK

EDIT: Oops... just realized that there are inductors with different impedance (or whatever it's called...).
Sep 12, 2017, 06:11 PM
Need more props..........
Oso Grande's Avatar
I can't picture any way you could actually be getting 32v off that pad.

But yes, that inductor would work fine. You could also just bridge the pads. All depends on how much noise your ESC's are putting out.
Sep 12, 2017, 07:23 PM
Experienced Noob
kenjancef's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Grande
I can't picture any way you could actually be getting 32v off that pad.

But yes, that inductor would work fine. You could also just bridge the pads. All depends on how much noise your ESC's are putting out.
My ESC's are DYS XM20A, so not sure if they are too noisy. I didn't realize I could just bridge the pads. Now I'm not sure what to do. Since it's apart, I may just order a new inductor. I wanted to get this finished, but I want to do it right.

I looked up the PDB and see that it used a 100uH inductor, but on Amazon there is other specs like 81mOhm 2 Amp, 33 m Ohm 5A. Does that stuff matter at all? Or is 100uH enough?

EDIT: Question: I'm not using OSD with this board at all. Are there any connectors I need to jump even though I'm not using OSD?
Last edited by kenjancef; Sep 12, 2017 at 10:14 PM.
Sep 12, 2017, 10:41 PM
Experienced Noob
kenjancef's Avatar
So I think I may have fixed my issue...

I looked REALLY close at the solder points for the inductor, and it seems like one of the pads either lost the solder (fat chance..) or I somehow skipped a pad (likely cause...). I threw some solder on it, and mysteriously my 5v pads actually read 5v. The 12v pads read 11.84v... is that ok? Even though my battery may be drained a little from all this testing, shouldn't it still be closer to 12v? Would I cause any component damage if it's at 11.84v?
Sep 13, 2017, 08:31 AM
Need more props..........
Oso Grande's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenjancef
So I think I may have fixed my issue...

I looked REALLY close at the solder points for the inductor, and it seems like one of the pads either lost the solder (fat chance..) or I somehow skipped a pad (likely cause...). I threw some solder on it, and mysteriously my 5v pads actually read 5v. The 12v pads read 11.84v... is that ok? Even though my battery may be drained a little from all this testing, shouldn't it still be closer to 12v? Would I cause any component damage if it's at 11.84v?
Glad to hear the voltages are cooperating. And yes, 11.84v is just fine.

However, something you're not going to want to hear........ If you're not using an OSD, you'll need to jumper these pads together on the bottom of the PDB in order for the video signal to run from the camera pads to the back where the VTX video connection is. You'd bridge both sets of pads.

If you don't want to pull everything apart to get to these pads, you can always run your video out from your camera directly to the VTX instead of going through the board.

Sep 13, 2017, 12:12 PM
Registered User
Hello OSO:

I have just soldered wires to FC for signal and LiPo power. The other ends have been inserted into openings on your board but not soldered yet.

My question has to do with ground wire associated with LiPo. When I turned over back of PDB I noticed the ground is next to large (- ) pad.

When I solder ground connection concerned about keeping solder away from (- ) pad.

Can I somehow cover the (-) pad along edge during soldering ?

This quad build will be limited to basic electronic components ( no fpv ) so I do see the other ground connection if needed.

Ive enjoyed working with your board!

Thank you

Rick
Sep 13, 2017, 08:19 PM
Experienced Noob
kenjancef's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Grande

If you don't want to pull everything apart to get to these pads, you can always run your video out from your camera directly to the VTX instead of going through the board.
I already wired up my cam to the VTx, so no worries there. Even though it really doesn't matter I like getting my cam power from the VTx.

I'm just glad to be finally close to getting this done. It's a conversion from a Robocat to the ZMR, and it's been hanging around in transition since May... lol...
Sep 13, 2017, 09:45 PM
Need more props..........
Oso Grande's Avatar
You can cover any pads you don't want to leave exposed with electrical tape. The liquid tape works really well for that kind of thing. But really, it's not an issue to leave them exposed. Especially the ground pads.
Sep 13, 2017, 09:56 PM
Experienced Noob
kenjancef's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Koopyetz
Hello OSO:

I have just soldered wires to FC for signal and LiPo power. The other ends have been inserted into openings on your board but not soldered yet.

My question has to do with ground wire associated with LiPo. When I turned over back of PDB I noticed the ground is next to large (- ) pad.

When I solder ground connection concerned about keeping solder away from (- ) pad.

Can I somehow cover the (-) pad along edge during soldering ?

This quad build will be limited to basic electronic components ( no fpv ) so I do see the other ground connection if needed.

Ive enjoyed working with your board!

Thank you

Rick
Nice clean build...

If I think something might short if it's exposed, I shoot some hot glue on it. It may look like a mess, but for me it works.

I hope I'm not telling you something you don't already know, but it looks like you're powering your FC from the Lipo pads. I'd be careful doing that since a lot of FC's need 5v, and the Lipo pads will output full power from the battery.... forgive me if you already knew that..

And what's the purple "plug" in the connector on the FC? If it's a protector of some sort I'd like to know what it is... it looks 3D printed....


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