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Dec 03, 2015, 03:43 PM
Rogue User
Mr Krinkle's Avatar
I didn't bother shortening the wires for my Color 250 frame either for the same reason as you, and as it was my first quad build I wasn't sure about the choice of my components! I only cut the positive and negative leads off 3 of my ESCs to reduce the amount of wires floating about!

On my latest build I'm soldering the motor wires to the ESC to neaten and save weight, but it does take a bit of extra time!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fredd32
When mine wears out or breaks I will probably step up to a carbon fiber one as well to cut weight. All up with fpv gear and mobius I am just a touch over 600 grams. I could probably shorten a bunch of wires and save weight here and there but want to keep everything easily changeable in case of crash damage.
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Dec 24, 2015, 05:59 PM
Registered User
Crazycanuck_r's Avatar
Can anybody tell me what size nylon screws they found worked best for mounting the FC in the center of the frame. M2, M2.5 or M3?
Dec 25, 2015, 04:18 PM
Registered User
Does anyone have a set of PID values to share for this frame? I'm using Naze32 and Cleanflight. I've found posts around the Internet that talk about what OpenPilot preset seems to work with the CC3D and this frame, but I haven't found anyone posting a set of Cleanflight PIDS.

I guess I'll just use some PIDS that match other generic 250's to start, but being that this has slightly angled arms, I'd imagine it might have better options tuned specifically to it...

PS. Using Baby Beast (2206-2150KV) motors and 20a ECS, so PIDs that match that would be even better... but at this point, I'm happy for any decent PID values anyone has gotten working well with this frame.
Dec 26, 2015, 06:35 PM
that's gonna leave a scar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazycanuck_r
Can anybody tell me what size nylon screws they found worked best for mounting the FC in the center of the frame. M2, M2.5 or M3?
M3 is what I use
Jan 10, 2016, 12:16 PM
Registered User
Hi, do you need to use nylon screws to mount the fc board? I have a Naze32 Acro for my HK Color frame and I have some metal M3 screws but I don't know if I can use metal screws to mount FC.
Jan 10, 2016, 02:16 PM
Rogue User
Mr Krinkle's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowb
Hi, do you need to use nylon screws to mount the fc board? I have a Naze32 Acro for my HK Color frame and I have some metal M3 screws but I don't know if I can use metal screws to mount FC.
You can use metal screws, only real benefit of nylon would be a minor weight saving.
Jan 14, 2016, 06:55 AM
DarkLight
Just building my own Hk color 250 - now I realise I don't have the crews for mounting the motors to the frame..

I have the 'Multistar Elite 2306-2150KV 'MINI MONSTER' ' motors.

I've tried mounting them with the M3x8mm screws that come with the frame and this seems ok, but I don't know if the screw gets a little close to the windings. Perhaps 6mm would be better?
Jan 14, 2016, 03:12 PM
Ruggedly Handsome Noob
Quote:
Originally Posted by oiverivins
Just building my own Hk color 250 - now I realise I don't have the crews for mounting the motors to the frame..

I have the 'Multistar Elite 2306-2150KV 'MINI MONSTER' ' motors.

I've tried mounting them with the M3x8mm screws that come with the frame and this seems ok, but I don't know if the screw gets a little close to the windings. Perhaps 6mm would be better?
I used the frame screws to mount my motors, same motors, worked fine. If you are worried, you might grab some tiny lock washers or something from the hardware store, the 6mm screws might not get quite enough bite.
Jan 15, 2016, 05:33 PM
Registered User
Crazycanuck_r's Avatar
All done my first build, no chance to fly as I'm waiting on a battery.

The frame was a very easy build, everything fits even the massive X8 Turnigy Rx. The fiberglass plastic composite seems like very strong material.

The motors I used (elite mini monster) were the only challenge, by widening out the center hole the problem of the "c" clip binding was solved.

So far the frame design and ease of build I would recommend this frame to anyone looking to build their first 250 size quad.

As for racing I can't say yet but I think my weight before battery of 379.5 grams might be a bit heavy to really effectively race.
Jan 16, 2016, 09:54 AM
DarkLight
@Moose_Roberts I ended up using the frame screws too, they seemed to do the job well enough. Managed to find a pack of M3x10mm at a local shop to finish the frame off so all is good.

I've just finished my build and taken her for the maiden flight! First time flying a quad (though I've flown fixed wing and coax helis before) and pleasantly surprised by how 'locked in' and precise she feels. Can't wait for some better weather to get outside and fly it properly.

Used in build:

Color 250 Orange frame
Naze32 acro version
Multistar Elite 2204-2300KV motors
Afro 12amp v3 ESCs running Baseflight (atm)
OrangeRx R615x (cppm mode)
TS351 (eBay) 200mW vTx
LC power filter for vTx
Sony Super HAD CCD camera 700tvl
Various lipos I have from other models - 1300 to 2200mah
Many cable ties
Standard baseflight PIDs

Weight exc battery is 402g. How does this compare to others?
Jan 16, 2016, 06:21 PM
that's gonna leave a scar
Quote:
Originally Posted by oiverivins
@Moose_Roberts I ended up using the frame screws too, they seemed to do the job well enough. Managed to find a pack of M3x10mm at a local shop to finish the frame off so all is good.

I've just finished my build and taken her for the maiden flight! First time flying a quad (though I've flown fixed wing and coax helis before) and pleasantly surprised by how 'locked in' and precise she feels. Can't wait for some better weather to get outside and fly it properly.

Used in build:

Color 250 Orange frame
Naze32 acro version
Multistar Elite 2204-2300KV motors
Afro 12amp v3 ESCs running Baseflight (atm)
OrangeRx R615x (cppm mode)
TS351 (eBay) 200mW vTx
LC power filter for vTx
Sony Super HAD CCD camera 700tvl
Various lipos I have from other models - 1300 to 2200mah
Many cable ties
Standard baseflight PIDs

Weight exc battery is 402g. How does this compare to others?
Lookin' good man !
Jan 19, 2016, 08:42 AM
Ruggedly Handsome Noob
Quote:
Originally Posted by oiverivins
@Moose_Roberts I ended up using the frame screws too, they seemed to do the job well enough. Managed to find a pack of M3x10mm at a local shop to finish the frame off so all is good.

I've just finished my build and taken her for the maiden flight! First time flying a quad (though I've flown fixed wing and coax helis before) and pleasantly surprised by how 'locked in' and precise she feels. Can't wait for some better weather to get outside and fly it properly.

Used in build:

Color 250 Orange frame
Naze32 acro version
Multistar Elite 2204-2300KV motors
Afro 12amp v3 ESCs running Baseflight (atm)
OrangeRx R615x (cppm mode)
TS351 (eBay) 200mW vTx
LC power filter for vTx
Sony Super HAD CCD camera 700tvl
Various lipos I have from other models - 1300 to 2200mah
Many cable ties
Standard baseflight PIDs

Weight exc battery is 402g. How does this compare to others?
Looks good. I'll have to get some pics up of my build. Pretty stable flight for a super cheap frame. It crashes real nice too, I do that a lot so it's a bonus.
Mar 11, 2016, 08:21 AM
Registered User

3D printed customized version


Here is my Customized version, made it a bit lower (22mm) and added motor protection with WS2812 Leds.

These are the component I used:

Motors: Tarot 2204 1550KV
Props: 6" KingKong 6040 Bull nose
Frame: Diatone 250 Nylon
Flight controller: CC3D with Betaflight
ESC: ZTW Spider 12A flashed with BLheli 14.302
Receiver: FrSky FrSky-X4RSB Connected via SBUS with telemetry
Bleutooth: HC-06

WS2812 Leds: CJMCU WS2812 LED board
XT60 adapter: Blue sky XT60 PCB connector
Spacers Nylon: M3x22mm Nylon Hex Standoff Female/Femal

FPV gear:

Camera: Eachine-700TVL 2.6mm-Lens 1/3-CMOS 110-Degree
Transmitter: Boscam FT958 40CH 5.8G 600MW

or

Transmitter: Eachine Racer 250 Spare Part 5.8Ghz 600mw with OSD

I have used low KV (1550kv) motors for this build. In combination with the 6040 Bull Nose props it flies and sounds fantastic.
Apr 04, 2016, 09:01 AM
Registered User
Crazycanuck_r's Avatar
Can honestly say after some really hard crashes this frame is strong. Did like a dozen cartwheels the other day and not a hair line Crack on any part of the frame.
Apr 08, 2016, 08:19 PM
that's gonna leave a scar
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraber
Here is my Customized version, made it a bit lower (22mm) and added motor protection with WS2812 Leds.

These are the component I used:

Motors: Tarot 2204 1550KV
Props: 6" KingKong 6040 Bull nose
Frame: Diatone 250 Nylon
Flight controller: CC3D with Betaflight
ESC: ZTW Spider 12A flashed with BLheli 14.302
Receiver: FrSky FrSky-X4RSB Connected via SBUS with telemetry
Bleutooth: HC-06

WS2812 Leds: CJMCU WS2812 LED board
XT60 adapter: Blue sky XT60 PCB connector
Spacers Nylon: M3x22mm Nylon Hex Standoff Female/Femal

FPV gear:

Camera: Eachine-700TVL 2.6mm-Lens 1/3-CMOS 110-Degree
Transmitter: Boscam FT958 40CH 5.8G 600MW

or

Transmitter: Eachine Racer 250 Spare Part 5.8Ghz 600mw with OSD

I have used low KV (1550kv) motors for this build. In combination with the 6040 Bull Nose props it flies and sounds fantastic.
nice man, I dig the lower profile !


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