H-King Color 250 FPV Mini Quad Frame - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Jul 06, 2015, 06:54 PM
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jl1252's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by slntdth42
From the OP, 23.5-27mm is the camera mounting size. Doubt 32mm will fit
I saw that, but actually 23.5-27mm is the hole spacing, not the actual dimensions of the board camera. I've just found that most board cameras are 25x25, 32x32, and 38x38, but those are edge to edge measurements of the entire board, not the mounting hole spacing. Someone had posted on the Color 250's comment section on HK's site that a 32x32 would fit but I was looking or confirmation before ordering.
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Jul 14, 2015, 04:16 AM
Registered User

fresh build


Ladies and gentlemen, meet the Modrák (Blueie). After entering the FPV world, I've burned 248 bateries and got some experience, I've built a whole new thingy now. Everything is different and a way better.

H King Color 250 frame, Flip32 + (Cleanflight), DYS BL20 (BLHeli v14.0, OneShot, damped light), DYS 1806 2300KV, GF 5030 and some jewelry that allows the handling and sends images down from the sky

After first flights (LOS only yet) I'm absolutely thrilled. Jump from the KK board and generic sluggish ESC's is huge. OneShot / damped light and looptime 1200 (presumably it could go even lower) just do wonders. Fully loaded: 496 grams.
Jul 14, 2015, 02:38 PM
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jl1252's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ondrascz
Ladies and gentlemen, meet the Modrák (Blueie). After entering the FPV world, I've burned 248 bateries and got some experience, I've built a whole new thingy now. Everything is different and a way better.

H King Color 250 frame, Flip32 + (Cleanflight), DYS BL20 (BLHeli v14.0, OneShot, damped light), DYS 1806 2300KV, GF 5030 and some jewelry that allows the handling and sends images down from the sky

After first flights (LOS only yet) I'm absolutely thrilled. Jump from the KK board and generic sluggish ESC's is huge. OneShot / damped light and looptime 1200 (presumably it could go even lower) just do wonders. Fully loaded: 496 grams.
Looks great...any video?
Jul 14, 2015, 04:46 PM
Registered User
I've done today a few LOS flights to fine-tune the PIDs and to get familiar with the bit different handling. I'll post vids whenever I'd have something serious
Jul 17, 2015, 11:35 AM
Registered User

It's done :)


Well, that escalated quickly. It was obviously pilot's fault, but anyway, the frame isn't extra durable





Jul 17, 2015, 12:07 PM
Prefectionist
Yup, cracked my frame to. Fell from about 20 feet up.
Jul 18, 2015, 08:10 AM
Registered User
My crash was from 20 meters (~60ft).
Jul 18, 2015, 11:19 PM
Registered User

Broken PDB board


Well, I was finishing up some wiring getting ready to take flight and went to plug in my battery and the PDB top layer literally pilled off. I am hoping that I can just "dump" some solder on top to regain the connection. Any other suggestions would be great. I do have a Abusemark PDB laying around somewhere but I would prefer to use this one made for this frame.

Thanks
Jul 22, 2015, 07:49 AM
Registered User
hey folks, quick question. im currently building this with opto escs and therefore need 5v out of the PDB for my reciever. i can take 5v from the pads at the front of the PDB which will feed my reciever (and on to the flight controller) but i had imagined the 5v pad was for FPV gear? This may be total noob question so be kind but, can you solder multiple cables on to the 5V output? it doesnt feel like the most elegant solution but cant see another way to get power into my gear. any ideas?
Jul 22, 2015, 07:58 AM
Registered User
Yes you can solder multiple connections to the pad or you can let the flight controller power the receiver like I did. My FPV gear from banggood is 12V ( the camera is powered by the transmitter)
Jul 22, 2015, 08:10 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfarmer0033
Yes you can solder multiple connections to the pad or you can let the flight controller power the receiver like I did. My FPV gear from banggood is 12V ( the camera is powered by the transmitter)
would still need power from the pads for the controller tho, its either to rx or FC and one feeds the other right?
Jul 22, 2015, 08:21 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirpatalot
would still need power from the pads for the controller tho, its either to rx or FC and one feeds the other right?
Correct
Jul 22, 2015, 05:51 PM
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Del-Dredd's Avatar
Got my blue one today, came with update pack of new spacers and screws.
The original spacers do look to be poorly machined with an over large inside diameter so the thread is very shallow and with the short screws supplied would pull out in no time.

The updated spacers seem to have a better thread cut and the replacement screws are longer.
(originals 5-6mm long thread, new ones 8mm)

Looks a good frame for the price, thanks for all the pictures, nicely done review.
Jul 24, 2015, 08:11 AM
Registered User
I finished my build earlier this month - here is a pic.
Flying like a charm.
I'm getting some jello on the Mobius, I'll have to make some changes to get rid of this.
Jul 24, 2015, 08:30 AM
Registered User
Put the Mobius directly to the top plate. As tight as possible. The anti-vibration plate in the fact amplifies the vibrations. And then PROPERLY balance the props. Those Diatone's Ghosts are heavily unbalanced from production.


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