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Sep 08, 2015, 04:12 PM
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Windward RC's Avatar

More pics from testing


Thanks to Ken Binks!
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Sep 08, 2015, 05:20 PM
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crankster's Avatar
In the words (Scottish accent) of one of Mike Myers characters; Fat B, "Don't you think I'm sexy?"
Sep 10, 2015, 12:02 AM
The wind is free, go sailing!
Scratchy101's Avatar
If I might make a suggestion after spending several hours modifying the rudder pushrod attachment fitting on my Joysway Explorer which looks identical to the one in the photo.

Using this type of fitting (it feels like very cheap lightweight alloy that strips easily) leaves no room for mis-alignment of the pushrod and the arm.
I suspect this is what has burnt out many DF65 rudder servos, along with the rod binding on its way out of the servo compartment and on the rubber belows.

Please replace this with a clevis that threads onto the end of the pushrod and fits over the rudder arm or even better, a ball joint that threads onto the rod and bolts to the arm,

What I found was the slightest bit of binding or tension on the rod caused the server to groan(chatter) when centered at rest (draining the battery and overheating the servo). Also if the rod is not perfectly horizontal and in the same plane as the arm, then as the arm rotates, that fitting will bind up & bend the arm. A clevis or ball joint will have some room for misalignment, thereby having a smoother steering action.

Here are some parts that would fit the bill from HK:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...4mm_x_3mm.html

Here's a pic of a modified ball joint rod end from the Nirvana thread.



Cheers, from a DF95 wannabe customer.
Sep 10, 2015, 12:14 AM
Registered User
I have to say this is not an issue you hear much complaint about. The rod does bind on th servo tray and a small bend solves this. The DF95 has a tottaly different tray which has no bind points. We sail in salt water and that has caused a few issues when not washed after sailing.
Sep 10, 2015, 10:18 AM
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STRINGFLY's Avatar

Inside pictures


Any pictures of the inside servos and tray or removed hatch cover ??
Looks like the hatch cover is the same as the DF65 . Wish they could come up with something better. Oh well, more hatch tape to use.

Stringfly <>++++
Sep 10, 2015, 10:40 AM
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Windward RC's Avatar
Scratchy

Im gonna have to agree with Buzz on this one. Ive sailed probably 10 different classes of sailboat over the last 20+ years and Ive seen a dizzying variety of rudder arms, and I have to say that this particular fitting is well designed , rotates easily and freely, yet provides great adjustment, uses hex screws to fasten down both the rudder and the control arm, which is preferred.

On the DragonForce 65, if there is a binding issue on the control arm, its where it enters the boat and has to "zig" down to reach the servo arm. Sometimes this rubs or binds on the new plastic trays, which is probably why some rudder servos fry. A known fix sis to bend the arm or even file the side of the tray down to prevent any binding so the rudder squares up nicely.

On the DragonFlite 95 this will not be an issue, since the control rod will have a straight shot from the rudder arm to the servo arm... a really first rate design feature in my humble opinion!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratchy101
If I might make a suggestion after spending several hours modifying the rudder pushrod attachment fitting on my Joysway Explorer which looks identical to the one in the photo.

Using this type of fitting (it feels like very cheap lightweight alloy that strips easily) leaves no room for mis-alignment of the pushrod and the arm.
I suspect this is what has burnt out many DF65 rudder servos, along with the rod binding on its way out of the servo compartment and on the rubber belows.

Please replace this with a clevis that threads onto the end of the pushrod and fits over the rudder arm or even better, a ball joint that threads onto the rod and bolts to the arm,

What I found was the slightest bit of binding or tension on the rod caused the server to groan(chatter) when centered at rest (draining the battery and overheating the servo). Also if the rod is not perfectly horizontal and in the same plane as the arm, then as the arm rotates, that fitting will bind up & bend the arm. A clevis or ball joint will have some room for misalignment, thereby having a smoother steering action.


Cheers, from a DF95 wannabe customer.
Sep 10, 2015, 10:56 AM
Registered User
Windward RC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by STRINGFLY
Any pictures of the inside servos and tray or removed hatch cover ??
Looks like the hatch cover is the same as the DF65 . Wish they could come up with something better. Oh well, more hatch tape to use.

Stringfly <>++++
As this boat goes into production, Im sure we will get many great pics of every part! Remember these are the prototypes

These hatches were designed this way for a reason.

A sticky backed dacron, or sail insignia cloth is a widely available item, is inexpensive, yet provides the most water tight way to seal up an RC sail boat... period!

No matter how good a hatch is designed, it will leak, and on a a mass produced boat, this creates returns , breakdowns, and all sorts of other problems.

Cheap boats use hatches... well designed boats use hatch cover material in my humble opinion again

The DF65 is the driest boat Ive ever owned thanks to its design (meaning the rubber sheet exit guides, switch cover guides, control arm guides)

By all accounts the DF95 will be even drier!!!
Sep 10, 2015, 11:37 AM
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STRINGFLY's Avatar
Understood Windward. Do you have a source for wider than 3 inch insignia or Dacron tape? That's the widest Goodwinds and Flymarket carry. The DF95 looks wider. I had some wider sheets but not sure where I got it. We have been using some Duck brand sheets and it works.


Stringfly <>++++++
Sep 10, 2015, 12:33 PM
Registered User
We are hoping to have a clear hatch. It will not seal or have catches so will require tape to seal and retain. To produce an opening hatch which will seal properly and for the lifetime of the boat is not easy and would add complexity to manufacture for little gain. It is anticipated there will only be one opening with the battery being mounted on the servo tray. The proto types were made with the option of mounting a battery by the keel to allow comparison.
Sep 10, 2015, 01:17 PM
Barry D IOM USA 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by STRINGFLY
Understood Windward. Do you have a source for wider than 3 inch insignia or Dacron tape? That's the widest Goodwinds and Flymarket carry. The DF95 looks wider. I had some wider sheets but not sure where I got it. We have been using some Duck brand sheets and it works.


Stringfly <>++++++
You can buy sticky back dacron from Sailrite by the yard, many different colors, the black is 58" wide - lots of covers from one yard!
Sep 10, 2015, 02:04 PM
Registered User
STRINGFLY's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzColeman
We are hoping to have a clear hatch. It will not seal or have catches so will require tape to seal and retain. To produce an opening hatch which will seal properly and for the lifetime of the boat is not easy and would add complexity to manufacture for little gain. It is anticipated there will only be one opening with the battery being mounted on the servo tray. The proto types were made with the option of mounting a battery by the keel to allow comparison.
If there is a lower lip something like this would be nice Buzz. Flush with top and easy to tape.

Thanks sightline, will try them out.

Stringfly <>+++++
Sep 10, 2015, 06:45 PM
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crankster's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzColeman
We are hoping to have a clear hatch. It will not seal or have catches so will require tape to seal and retain. To produce an opening hatch which will seal properly and for the lifetime of the boat is not easy and would add complexity to manufacture for little gain. It is anticipated there will only be one opening with the battery being mounted on the servo tray. The proto types were made with the option of mounting a battery by the keel to allow comparison.
A clear hatch that is taped down is fine for the main servo area as long as there is a separate place for the battery e.g.. near the keel.
Taping works for areas that don't have the need for frequent access.
for the battery compartment, you need something better than tape. A screw top is favoured in the RG65s and works well.
Sep 10, 2015, 10:29 PM
The wind is free, go sailing!
Scratchy101's Avatar
Thanks Buzz,
The existing rudder arm fitting is workable then if everything lines up as you said.

I can only speak from my experiences with the 2 other Joysway boats using this fitting.
The pushrod in my DF65 does rub on one side of the servo tray support and the alignment on the Explorer was way out without some serious modifications.
I also noticed this is not an orderable part from the Atomik RC website (in case you strip the threads or it becomes corroded).
Hopefully that will be rectified by the time this boat becomes available.

As for the hatch, I must agree that there must be some provision made for charging the battery without removing the servo tray hatch tape everytime.
Perhaps a waterproof charging port is in order?

I'm really quite excited around this boat and want to help make it the best it can be out of the box.
Sep 11, 2015, 12:25 AM
Registered User
The rudder arm is a spared part from Joysway. Each distributor orders what that think is needed so I guess you need to ask. In the UK stock is available and this part is used by other RG65's.

Use a battery with enough capacity for a days racing!


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