Another shot of the new bow, new transom and all the bulkheads. The ones aft of sta 5 will probably be cut way down.
Happy Thanksgiving!

Some notes:
1) I've decided to go with one layer of 5.8oz carbon for the hull and the curved outside portion of the deck instead of 4oz S2 glass.
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2) After the hull is carbonated all the bulkheads will be ground largely out-not entirely but about 80%.
The corner between the bottom of the crossarm and the inboard side of each hull will also be ground down.
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3) Still working on the exact deck shape-there is a chance I can use Dragon Plate(.018") or a similar brand(.010") of carbon veneer bonded to thin balsa which would save a lot of finishing and still be lite. There is the possibility that part of the crossarm area aft of sta 5 and forward of sta 9 may be cut out and replaced with tramp material which means it would be essentially open.
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4) As mentioned earlier the windward hydrofoil will be able to retract 1.5-2" as it stands now. Both will also be adjustable downward(and out) 1.5-2" to experiment with more altitude.
NOTE: changed on 2/13/16 to eliminate the one or two servos that would be required to move the foils. See page 13, post 194.
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5) I will get another receiver specifically for this boat-I'll be able to use the same set up I have programmed for the D4Z cat which is also set up for the Trapeze Power Ballast System.

Found a plan for the Q23 and used it to move the keel, rig and foils to a new position better reflecting the full size boat. There may be further changes once sailing. Sail Area remains the same, length is increased to 52" with reverse transoms on each side, crossarm recessed 2.5" at bow, beam the same ,draft same, weight target the same.
Slight change in amount of weight main foil supports: from 80% to 81.2%. Similar change in weight supported at takeoff by rudder foil: from 20% to 18.8%. Target weight is 8lb but that could change. Even if total weight changes the proportions supported by the main foil(s) and rudder foil won't change.

Last on right, today below:

I made the decision today to go with a tramp over a large portion of the crossarm. It will save weight and is porous enough to reduce windpressure on the hull when knocked down-making it easier to self-right. The material is a "Polyethylene Diamond Mesh" from McMaster-Carr.
Also modified the building board so that the boat can be placed on it temporarily right side up or upside down.

Here are a couple more shots of the hull ready to fill and carbonate:

I've been reading parts of "Higher Performance Sailing"(Frank Bethwaite and others) that I haven't got to yet.
So I was surprised and delighted to find a picture of the lines of Dominion and one of her sailing.(see below)
In 1895 Seawanhaka Yacht Club presented the Sewanhaka Cup for competition in small boats, as an international match race series with challenge welcome from any club. George Hierrick Duggan of the Royal St. Lawrence Yacht Club made the first challenge and won. He proceeded to design 7 defenders that all won. One of those was Dominion in 1898-"a stunningly innovative design"-see the lines and pictures below. Scows were being born during this time as boats that would plane off the wind and heel over upwind to reduce wetted surface.
But Dominion couldn't plane -she was designed with two hulls and was blisteringly fast w/o planing. According to Bethwaites book notes(p25) after Dominion won:
"Following this challenge, the rules were 'adjusted'(read if you can't beat them ,ban them) to 'prevent the use of abnormal hulls such as Dominion(emphasisDL),or flimsy designs such as Seawanhaka and Challenger'"
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In 1898 the Canadian boat, Dominion, carried the scow design to its logical end. She was essentially two semi-circular section hulls with a joining elevated floor above the waterline. When heeled, her waterline increased from 17'6" to 27 feet. She won the 1898 Seawanhaka Cup with ease, unbeatable in any condition. Her superior design was subsequently ruled illegal for the Seawanhaka Cup competition. Dominion would later be part of the inspiration for the M-20 design.
http://www.m20-scow.com/history.html

My carbon, resin and filler should be here soon. The filler is "SuperFill" from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. It's the lightest filler I've ever found-I used it on my Fire Arrow trimaran. In sands very, very easily and does not shrink(like Bondo).
The disadvantages are that it takes about 12 hours to dry and costs about $22 a quart and you need a small, accurate scale to mix it .

Doug - not waterproof without some kind of resin/paint overlay, but give this new lightweight spackling compound a try. This happens to be Red Devil brand. It is water based so easy cleanup. If you drop a blob on the carpet, let it dry and run vacuum over it. Sands incredibly easy and when you pick up the can it doesn't feel like there is anything inside. I started using this on the shaped foam of my 65 cm multihull as well as the 48 inch Economaran design. Only a couple of $$$ and available through WalMart in their paint area. No mixing, just use straight from the container with plastic putty knife. I then use an old credit card or Comcast promo card to smooth it out. One thing - you can't work it as long as you can with joint compound, but cost wise and time and low weight are definite pluses.

Dick

Thanks, Dick. I think I'd be leery of it absorbing water in this very high humidity? If it doesn't do that it could be excellent for a quickie plug.

Used it to patch some screw holes in bathroom door where wife had a robe hook she never used. $ year old grandson (with some guidance) filled the screw holes, then sanded and painted and no issues.

Water based, they suggest using water on putty knife to get smooth finish.

$6.44/pint can (like mine) and worth an experiment.

Dick

Thanks again- I've already ordered the epoxy. But I will try this stuff.

I've put two small fills on the hull and filled and coated the foil molds.
Should have carbon in a week or so.

Sanding today and tomorrow. In the foil mold pictures below you can see the built in foil twist on both molds and the outline of the section.
If you look at the ellipse drawn at the leading edge of the foil section on the jig, you get a better idea what that will look like after the foils are hand finished. In other words, the molded leading edge is not the final leading edge.

Earlier, I thought I could use the F3 daggerboard mold to make the keel for this thing. But measuring again it would require too much modification of that mold which is set up for an internal pushrod for wand controlled foils.
I'm considering using a .109"(7/64") aluminum ruler as a core and laminating unidirectional carbon on each side. I won't need any 45/45 material since the aluminum resists twist very well. And it will allow me to keep the T/c right at 9% and the foil very stiff. There will be a small weight penalty vs an all carbon foil but it may be worth it for a one-off.
Just figured the total weight using the aluminum core: 10.83oz/.68 lb . Considering solid carbon would be half that and carbon with a foam or balsa core would be even lighter I'll have to give this more thought.

I have the F3* molds(top and bottom) for the main foil and rudder foil(all the same) and will use them- slightly modified-for the for the rudder T-foil. I also have the F3 rudder mold and it's perfect for the D2.
The main foil mold is set up to be able to mold the flap and hinge
in during layup so when the foil is pulled it has a working flap. But I probably won't use the flap on this boat and may increase the foil area slightly. The molds are about 20 years old but are in fairly good shape.
* the worlds first production RC sailing foiler...
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