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Jun 04, 2015, 10:57 AM
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Mr.RC-Cam's DiY 3D Printed FPV Goggles

These DiY 3D printed FPV goggles may look like a ugly duckling, but inside is a high resolution 7-inch 1280 x 800 IPS LCD that is beautiful. I've worn many different FPV goggles and the image resolution is the best I've seen to date. Cost of this project is under $125.

The LCD supports both PAL/NTSC and HDMI video connections. It has what is best described as Reluctant Blue Screen, meaning it does not present a blue (or black) screen until there is a continuous loss of the video signal.

You'll need a 3D printer with a large bed size. For example, my daVinci 1.0 printer has a 200mm bed and it worked out great. I estimate total print time is around 20 hours. I used ABS for this build but PLA would be fine too.

The original build blog is found here:

Below is the exploded view and a "beauty" shot.
Last edited by Mr.RC-CAM; Jun 04, 2015 at 03:02 PM. Reason: Added link to build blog.
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Jun 04, 2015, 11:05 AM
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Parts were chosen for easy availability and low cost. That means eBay and China suppliers. Here's the BOM (bill of materials).

1280 x 800 7-inch IPS LCD monitor panel, driver board with keyboard, $68 USD

Cheap Drug Store type Reading Glasses (wire frame). Only $1 from your local Dollar Tree (USA store)
Choose optics for 7-8 inch viewing distance.

Rubber Foam Weatherstrip, Self Stick, 3/8" Wide x 5/16" Thick, $3

Flat black water based paint (Styrofoam / plastic safe).

Elastic Headband Strap For GoPro, $3

M5 GoPro Mount Screw, $1

Right Angle RCA Adapter, $1

3mm carbon fiber rod (or wooden cooking skewer)
2 pcs 43mm long for left & right strap loop
1 pcs 45mm long for top strap loop

3/16" (4.5mm) Foam Board, $2
2 pcs 136mm x 112mm (left / right box cover panel)
2 pcs 136mm x 175mm (top / bottom box cover panel)
1 pcs 63mm x 165mm (LCD Controller PCB Shield)

M3 lock nut
1 pcs for face bezel, top side (under top strap loop)

M3 x 6mm Button Head Screw
4 pcs for rear panel vent cover
4 pcs for left & right cheek pads

M3 x 8mm Button Head Screw
2 pcs for eyeglass frame capture mount
2 pcs for left & right slide rail
2 pcs for left bezel brace
4 pcs for right bezel brace & Keypad
4 pcs for front bezel Part 2

M3 x 14mm Button Head Screw
1 pcs for face bezel
2 pcs for rear PCB

M3 x 25mm Button Head Screw
1 pc for lens adj thumbscrew (right slide rail)

M3 x 40mm Socket Button Head Screw (alternate flat head)
4 pcs for face bezel

Brass Press-Fit Expansion Insert for Plastics with Flange, $7
M3 x .5 Internal Thread, 4.8mm Long
McMaster-Carr #94510A240
Approx 36 pcs required

Alternate China sourced M3 brass inserts (McMaster's press-fit insert shown above provides stronger plastic bond)
Last edited by Mr.RC-CAM; Jun 04, 2015 at 03:39 PM. Reason: Added alternate brass insert
Jun 04, 2015, 11:31 AM
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Please see the notes included with each of these images for important details.
Jun 04, 2015, 11:40 AM
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The lens adjustment mechanism uses cheap drug store reading glasses. I paid $1 for mine. Select a pair that provides clear newsprint reading distance of 7-8 inches. Carefully make your diopter selection since a marginal choice will impact overall eye comfort.

Choose a pair with wire frames that have the largest size lens area that will still fit inside the 3D printed Front_Bezel_Part1 piece (with the nose pads and temple/ear pieces removed). If the lens area is too small the eyeglass frame may partially obscure your view.

If you would like the lens adjustment to be on the left side then print all the shown parts as a mirror image. BTW, if you would prefer to use a magnifying lens for focusing the image then feel free to mod these parts to do that.
Last edited by Mr.RC-CAM; Jun 17, 2015 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Pick large size lens.
Jun 04, 2015, 11:44 AM
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Remove the IR board's wiring from the LCD cable (the IR remote is not used) to reduce the cable clutter. Route the cables as shown below (tack in place with hot melt glue):

Carefully solder M3 brass inserts to the top (component) side of the LCD driver board at each PCB mounting hole location. While soldering, temporarily hold the inserts in place with M3 screws to keep them centered over the holes. Adding these brass inserts to the LCD driver board will allow MUCH easier PCB mounting.
Last edited by Mr.RC-CAM; Jun 04, 2015 at 03:05 PM. Reason: Solder brass inserts
Jun 04, 2015, 11:51 AM
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The elastic headband is worn "backwards" with the GoPro mounting bracket on the back of the head (the battery pack can be optionally attached to the GoPro bracket). The other buckle plate will be removed so that there are three adjustable straps to attach to the goggles. Use 3mm carbon fiber rods in the loops at the end of the straps to hold them in the goggles.
Jun 04, 2015, 12:06 PM
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Some printing tips:

1. If you are printing with ABS I highly recommend you rescale each file to 101% to account for shrinkage.

2. Low weight is important. Use normal shell thickness and 20% infill on all files except lens_slide_set, which should be at least 50% infill with thick shells.

3. All parts have relaxed designs to ensure printing success; Skirts and/or support structures are not needed to print any of the parts.

Some building tips:

1. Before installing the foam board panels you should paint the inside surfaces with opaque flat black paint to block sunlight. Use water based paint (foam safe). Some hot melt glue where the four foam board panels join together is recommended (apply on the inside).

2. For aesthetics, the exposed side of the LCD Driver PCB is covered with a piece of foam board. This decorative cover can be tacked in place with a small amount of hot melt glue.

3. The LCD is installed in the rear bezel and held with small amounts of hot melt glue at the four corners. Do not use too much in case you need to take it out for repairs.

4. The M3 brass inserts do not need any hole drilling prior to installing them. Place the insert on the tip of your soldering iron, heat for 10 seconds, and press into place. The top flange must be flush with the surface of the plastic part. My trick is to install the insert with its flange slightly above the surface, then I quickly push the face of the insert against a flat table top and hold for a few seconds while it cools. This will provide a perfectly level & flush installation.

5. Do NOT use adhesive on any of the plastic parts in case you need to dismantle the goggles for maintenance. All the plastic parts screw together so glue isn't needed.

6. Polish the contact surfaces of the lens slider so it moves freely when the lens adj screw is slightly loosened. Use a file or sandpaper for a smooth surface and easy sliding. ABS can be further polished with acetone.
Last edited by Mr.RC-CAM; Jun 04, 2015 at 04:02 PM. Reason: added note to flush mount the brass inserts
Jun 04, 2015, 06:05 PM
Fly FPV, sleep; repeat
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So with the design modifications you detailed in the original build log, what was the total weight? And do you think the weight could be lowered more by finding an LCD panel that does not have such a large control panel?
Jun 04, 2015, 07:06 PM
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Total weight is ~22 ounces. It's not much more than my Trimmersion goggles which are ~19 ounces. As mentioned in the blog, the revised weight distribution greatly improved comfort. Regardless, I don't recommend children wear these, these goggles will be too large/bulky for them.

Due to the weight of printed parts, it would be a challenge to make a significant difference in the overall weight. For example, even if you cut the LCD driver board's size in half the weight savings would be only 1-2 ounces. Reducing some plastic would conserve a bit more. However, if on a budget and a smaller screen is acceptable, then get the cheap Styrofoam HK goggles and live with its lower resolution screen.

The weight has not bothered me while flying. My biggest issue is that there is so much more to see that I've gotten distracted while flying. A seven inch LCD monitor that is mere inches from your face is best described as an IMAX experience.

BTW, it would be awesome if this project got other FPV hobbyists excited in developing it further. I saw a tremendous swarm of brilliant design activity in the 3D printed Inspire project. So bring it on all you 3D printer / FPV model flying hobbyists! Or build them as-is and enjoy the big screen excitement now.
Last edited by Mr.RC-CAM; Jun 04, 2015 at 07:57 PM.
Jun 05, 2015, 09:02 AM
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Why did you have to make something so awesome! Now I am going to have to print this. Great job! Do you have any pics with the screen turned on in the inside? Thx
Jun 05, 2015, 10:32 AM
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Unfortunately with the reading glasses in the way it's not practical to get a photo that shows the awesomeness of the LCD image. But if you have tried traditional FPV goggles, then just imagine its screen being bigger, brighter, and clearer.
Jun 05, 2015, 12:55 PM
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Could you use prescription glasses in place of reading glasses? Also any update on the blue screen?
Jun 05, 2015, 01:35 PM
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You can omit the reading glasses. There is room inside the bezel for wearing small frame prescription glasses. But the pair you use must be able to provide a clear image at 7-8 inches reading distance.

The LCD is designed to resist the blue screen issue so I haven't experienced it yet during my test flights. But I am interested in eliminating the possibility of blue screen. Fortunately the LCD driver board is USB stick firmware upgradeable so it could be reflashed with different software. That is probably going to be a another project if I run into any blue screen problems.
Jun 11, 2015, 09:23 PM
Fly FPV, sleep; repeat
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How does the focal distance compare to the FatShark goggles? I tried some of the FatShark's several years ago and found they focus too close for me. I didn't have any way of measuring it though so I don't know if they are comparable or not.

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