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Jun 01, 2015, 11:34 PM
DWA
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Home Lock Functions do not work in ATTI Mode!!! Only use Home Lock in GPS Mode!!!
Control lock functions do work and ATTI mode.

CL works in Atti or GPS.
HL works only in GPS...

If you have established the Left/Right and Front/Back grid in your mind as you establish your forward direction when the FC initializes (and, like most RC pilots, you fly the craft in front of you)...
Pulling back on the right stick will bring the airframe closer to you in the Front/Back coordinates.
If you are aware (I hope you are) that you flew to the left or right on your outbound trip, the reverse of that on the right stick will bring the airframe closer to you in the Left/Right coordinates.
Put it CL and picture the craft like cursor on a computer screen.
All you have to do is use the right stick like the cursor arrows on a keyboard
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Jun 01, 2015, 11:44 PM
DWA
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Phantom Vision and Vision+


Difference between connection and control...

When you see "Phantom connection broken" and the screens grays out and freezes. That's the video link, you'll still have RC control but if you're flying FPV, and you are faraway you won't be able to see the model to orient it, and you will be in trouble. You could do the RTH at this point.

If you lose the RC signal but maintain video signal, you continue to be able to see the video and control the camera, but you can't control the model. You get this message instead, "Control Signal Lost", you will see it go into RTH on it's own.

It can be tricky getting a hang of the fact that the camera and control signals are entirely separate from each other, and it probably wouldn't hurt for DJI to rename the "Phantom connection broken" error message to something like "Camera connection lost"
Last edited by DWA; Jun 03, 2015 at 01:17 PM.
Jun 01, 2015, 11:53 PM
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For video with the Vision+ camera my first choice is 720p at 60 frames per second.
It seems to be the best if you want smooth video for panning shots.
The Vision+ does not have 1080p at 60fps if it did that would be my first choice.
It does have 1080i at 60fps this mode is okay but it's not good if you're going to be editing the video. If you're not going to edit it will look smoother than 1080p at30fps.
If I'm not using 720p at 60 frames per second then I would use the 1080p at 30 frames per second. But I would only want to use that if I was not going to be paning. The wide seems to have a cleaner picture than the narrow setting. If I am videoing a house for real estate then I might use the narrow if I really want to try to exclude the neighbors houses on the sides. That is best but not always possible.
1080p 60fps is also better if you're going to pull still images from the video.


These are the video settings that you can utilize when shooting with the Phantom vision plus camera.

1080i 60fps wide & narrow
1080p 30fps wide & narrow
1080p 25fps wide & narrow
720p 60 fps
720p 30 fps
480p 30 fps.
Last edited by DWA; Jun 03, 2015 at 01:16 PM.
Jun 01, 2015, 11:53 PM
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Info on pics from Phantom2 Vision .There is no medium or narrow setting for the camera.
The Vision+ camera is the same for all the numbers.

Still pictures are always the same width - 4384 pixels wide. The only thing you can control is their height (and therefore the aspect ratio), by using the incorrectly-named "Photo Size" setting:

Large: 4384 x 3288 (4:3)
Medium: 4384 x 2922 (3:2)
Small: 4384 x 2466 (16:9)

If your photos look "square" don't worry, you're not losing anything - in fact you're gaining some height. I suggest always shooting with large photo size setting, and then you can always crop it later into whatever aspect ratio you want.

Also check this.https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2051
Last edited by DWA; Jun 03, 2015 at 01:16 PM.
Jun 01, 2015, 11:55 PM
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Why IOC is important to have enabled. If you lose orientation you just have to pull back on the stick to fly it back to you. Invoking failsafe takes much longer (not good if you are low on battery) and is more risky (you have no control of your copter, so cannot control the height in case of obstructions etc.).

Also IOC course lock (as opposed to home lock) does not use GPS, so it works even if you lose GPS reception.

As mentioned, if you lose a motor on a flat hexa it might spin continuously around the stopped prop. IOC is the only way you will be able to steer it at all then.
If your FPV goes out or you incidentally lose line of sight, you may not be able to visually regain orientation. In those cases it's nice to be able to bring the model back without relying on failsafe.

The LED unit will flash green about 8 times at 30 seconds after the initial power up of the Naza. This indicates that the forward direction has been recorded for course lock flying.

Depending on how fast your GPS unit acquires sat lock then you will see the LED unit flash green about 8 times again indicating that the home point has now been registered. The home point can only be registered if the GPS has acquired at least 6 or more satellites for 10 seconds sustained.
Jun 01, 2015, 11:55 PM
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Some great info on night flying and flying to shoot fireworks with the Vision+.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post28789956


https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=4688


Also:
If you're shooting fireworks or otherwise trying to capture bright features in a dark setting, like city lights at night, that sort of thing, you don't want the camera trying its ever loving best to bring up the dark and shadowy areas as if it were late afternoon. Because the camera really has no idea what you're looking at or what your intentions are, and it always uses whatever tools it has to try to make everything exposed as if it were looking at middle grey - not white, not black. So by limiting the ISO to no more than 400, and knowing that it can only open its shutter for just so long as it shoots video, you're forcing it to under-expose what it thinks it should be trying to make look like daylight. The result is that night actually looks like night, and bright things like fireworks or window lights or headlights or campfires will look pretty good, rather than being completely blown out highlights.
Night flight info:

Lock the ISO to 100 on the V+ to avoid the noise and it should look pretty good. I would also lock the white balance as "daylight". Believe it or not, this will probably give you the best result (and WB can easily be edited in post especially if you have locked it and not left as AWB which can change a lot from image to image).
Jun 01, 2015, 11:56 PM
DWA
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Two signals from the Vision and Vision+. Both use 5.8ghz for control.

WiFi for Video, the extender's flat face must always be pointed at the model.

RC Control, this should be in FCC mode (two beeps at power up) and the tip of this antenna should always be pointed up, and never at the model or bent to the side.
Last edited by DWA; Jun 03, 2015 at 01:16 PM.
Jun 02, 2015, 04:35 PM
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P3


The toggle switch on the left of the controller is labelled P, A ,F for the three different flight mode selections.

P = Positional Hold.
The Phantom-3 ships set in "Beginner" mode which is effectively fixed in the P position by default. This was previously called GPS-mode, but is now called P-mode because it combines GPS-mode with the Vision Positioning System (VPS) which uses optical/acoustical sensors when the Phantom is flying less than 3 metres above ground.

There are 3 possible states within the selected P-mode; P-GPS, P-Opti, and P-Atti. In all three conditions the Phantom will use its barometric altimeter to hold a constant altitude whenever the throttle is centred, or its ultrasound acoustic sensors when the Phantom is less than 3 metres above ground.
P-GPS.
If there is sufficient GPS satellite reception, in P-GPS the Phantom will stop and hold its position whenever the control sticks are centred. It's great for beginners because, if you get into any trouble, you just need to release the control sticks to their centre position and the Phantom will stop and hover, giving you time to collect your thoughts. No need for panic.

P-Opti
In the absence of sufficient satellite reception, the Phantom 3 switches automatically to P-Opti mode (when less than 3 metres high) in which the belly-mounted optical sensor is used to hold position whenever sticks are centred.

P-Atti
If neither GPS satellite, nor VPS system is available (flying higher than 3 m), then the Phantom will switch automatically to P-Atti mode. The barometric altimeter will still function to maintain a constant altitude when the throttle is centred, and the gyros and accelerometers will ensure the Phantom stays level whenever sticks are centred, but it will be unable to hold a fixed position and will drift with the wind.

A-Atti mode
This switch position does nothing unless you first choose to disable Beginner mode in the Flight App. With Beginner mode disabled, you can choose at any time to switch between P-PositionHold mode or A-Atti mode.

In A-Atti mode, both GPS and VPS position hold is switched off. The Phantom will still maintain altitude using its barometric altimeter, but will drift freely whenever sticks are centred.

There are primarily two benefits from using Atti mode.
The Phantom will not jerk to a sudden stop when sticks are centred like it does in GPS-mode, but will continue to drift smoothly at whatever speed it happened to be doing, and
the Phantom flies more agile and faster in Atti mode. You can see that on your screen display. When giving it full forward stick in GPS mode, the props only come down so far into view at the top of the screen. If you then switch into Atti mode, you'll see the props suddenly dip much further into view as the Phantom leans further forward.

F-Function mode
This switch position is disabled by default unless you choose to enable it within the Pilot App (IOC mode).

Previously it used to be called Intelligent Orientation Control (IOC), including HomeLock (HL) and Course Lock( CL). Currently it only features Course Lock (CL) mode, as explained in previous messages.

I suspect DJI has more Functions planned for this switch position, like HomeLock (HL), Point-of-Interest (POI), Waypoints, etc???
Jun 03, 2015, 01:15 PM
DWA
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Phantom FC40


Charging the FC40 Camera...

Here are the 2 options I have seen work:

1. Connect the camera to a USB port while the computer is awake or asleep:
- the camera LED will rapidly flash red, about 10 times
- the red light will remain illuminated as long as the connection remains intact Note: some LEDs will go out when the camera is fully charged.

2. Connect the camera to a phone charger:
- the camera LED will flash red until the camera is charged, at which point, the LED will go off.


side note -the SD card is accessible while the camera is connected via USB
Last edited by DWA; Jun 03, 2015 at 02:03 PM.
Jun 03, 2015, 01:26 PM
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FC40

operating the camera
Press and hold power button to turn off and on. You need to download and install fc40 app to connect to fc40 wifi camera signal. The camera has its own wifi.
Turn camera on. Go to settings wifi in cell phone. Disconnect from any wifi.
Connect to dji-xxxx wifi. Start fc40 cam app. Connect again to dji -xxxx wifi.
Jun 03, 2015, 02:50 PM
DWA
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P2 or P3

Q:
My videos are consistently 14:01 minutes long- if I'm still recording it kicks to a new .mov file. I'm assuming this is normal, but annoying nonetheless if I'm recording something interesting right at that moment. What is going on here?

A:
The file storage system is FAT32 or ExFAT-basically it only allows for 1 file to be no larger then 3.9GB, before starting a new file. FAT32 was based on the ancient belief that we would never need a single file larger than that.
Now-we have NTFS which allows for much larger file sizes, but, the camera isn't compatible with that memory format.
Jun 03, 2015, 03:10 PM
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P3

Q;
Say i'm in P mode and I'm doing a shoot that involves going under a bridge (large and big enough to block GPS signal) - say the shot takes 10 seconds. Will this cause any issues? Will the phantom attempt to RTH? If planning on doing such a shot would it be best to turn on atti mode?

A:
The Phantom will go into Failsafe RTH if it loses connection with your controller transmitter, if for instance you fly out of sight behind the bridge and that blocks the signal.

But if it merely loses GPS signal under the bridge while in P mode, the Phantom will rely on its Optical Sensor for position hold. If it is flying too high for the Vision Positioning System to work (>3m) then it'll switch automatically to P-Atti mode.

In P-Atti mode it will still maintain altitude using it's barometric altimeter, but it will not reliably hold position in hover.

It's really not a big deal. Holding position and altitude only ever take effect when your control sticks are centred. You can still raise or lower the throttle, the Phantom still responds exactly the same way. Move the rudder, elevator, aileron sticks, the Phantom still responds. You still have control.

The only noticeable effect is that the Phantom will drift when sticks are centred. If you are worried that you'll be surprised if the Phantom loses GPS signal and unexpectedly switches automatically to P-Atti mode while under the bridge, you could simply flip the switch manually to flying in A (Atti mode) beforehand, before flying under the bridge.
Jun 03, 2015, 03:13 PM
DWA
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P3

VPS is (visual positioning system) on the P3
Jun 03, 2015, 03:14 PM
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P2 P3
I'm sure you've all noticed that the camera gimbal does not appear to be balanced. When it's powered off the camera always tilts down to the left and the lens droops straight down. Some people have even added weight to the back of the camera to correct this "imbalance".

However, the nose-down droop does not seem to be caused by the camera being nose-heavy.

If I set my P3 on the floor up-side-down to rest on the tips of its motor shafts, the unpowered camera gimbal now swings to point the camera lens straight up at the sky, not down as would be expected if the gimbal was unbalanced due to the camera being nose-heavy.

The rotation tilting to the left seems to be caused by a spring-loading. I think it's just the ribbon cable that causes that torque to the left. There is something similar in the gimbal housing that causes the camera to rotate nose down whenever the gimbal is de-powered.

Evidently it has nothing to do with a weight imbalance. In any case, it doesn't seem to affect the gimbal while it's powered up.
Jun 03, 2015, 06:22 PM
DWA
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P2 P3

Q:
How accurate is the altitude in the flight logs or on the app? What if it shows -10 feet after landing the Phantom?

A:
They tend to drift a bit from heat I think. It zero's the barometer at every power up, but can drift + or - after that. It's not a precise measurement, however, the barometer is very sensitive to alt change which is why they hold altitude so well.

Phantom uses relative altitude. The barometer resets to zero at power up and displays altitude number, relative to the power up location. Unfortunately this number drifts a bit in the 15 minutes of flight time. I'd hoped that the P3 would be better than the P2 since the main "heaters" are now on the belly and away from the barometer.

It's simpler for everyone if the height is displayed as Above Ground Level (AGL), i.e. it's zero at power up from the Home Location.

But, if ambient air pressure or temperature changes during your flight, it may no longer show as zero later upon landing in the same spot. The wind direction changes and it's no longer blowing hot air from the fields, but now it's blowing cool air from the lake. The sun sets or clouds roll in and the air temperature changes. All of those will affect the accuracy of the barometric altimeter.

That's why altimeters in real aircraft have a knob to adjust the altimeter setting to local ambient barometric pressure.

Q
The barometric sensor on the P2 or P3 or P2V+ can be a negative number when sitting on the ground before takeoff.

A
The baro sensors seem to drift. They zero at power up but as they heat up the altitude reported drifts. Mine goes positive to between 5 and 25 feet! I will fly, come back and hover over the takeoff spot and it is usually showing well over 20 feet. The only issue with this is that RTH bases the return height based on this number. So in my case RTH of 60 feet height, actually returns at 40 feet high. Be sure and factor in your model's typical drift into your RTH height settings.
Last edited by DWA; Jun 08, 2015 at 01:07 AM.


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