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May 19, 2015, 01:51 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
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New Product

Hobby King Cobra Canopy Upgrade

When I opened the box I wasn't expecting to see this kind of quality in a foam based EDF jet. Typically the fan unit and landing gear are made as cheap as possible.
At first It looks like they did a good job engineering this one.
However the canopy and cockpit is very simplistic and toy like. You would think if they went to all the trouble to design a jet like this that they would take their time with the most visible portion of the model. I suppose this canopy works for some but the one I have is trimmed wrong and does not fit the model well. It's not even bonded to the hatch straight and their clamping practices caused puckers to the sides of the canopy. Don't get me started on the snap that holds it down. ( feels weak)
With that little rant over I felt I had to do something about it.
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May 19, 2015, 01:56 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
I have the canopy upgrade on the website now.

As with the rest of the upgrades I have designed it so your original canopy can still be used and the airframe requires very little modifications.
The upgrade is not for everyone.
Yes, you have to build it and paint it but I prefer the phrase, you "get" to build and paint it.
I have designed the cockpit with a low parts count to make assembly easy and the upgrade affordable.
There are extra parts on this one that allows options for you to make it your own.
May 19, 2015, 02:28 PM
EDF all the way!
bruff's Avatar
May 19, 2015, 04:30 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks, only took 26 hours to tool for
Hobby King stuff typically doesn't do well when it comes to upgrades.
I thought I would take one more shot at it before I give up on them.

I'm starting with ten kits to see how it does.
The website does not mention it but the Hatch Magnets that hold the front down will be included in the first ten kits.
At 4 per kit it adds up.

You will know when they are gone because I'll come back to this post and edit it.
May 19, 2015, 05:02 PM
Registered User
Looks nice as heck. Just picked one up.
May 20, 2015, 07:50 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
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Assembly starts with trimming the cockpit tub to fit the fuselage.
leave as much extra plastic as you can to act as a bib to protect the foam.
This extra plastic will be trimmed away near the end of assembly.
Use a razor to cut the raised portion of the cockpit tub off.
A rocking motion with light pressure works best.

Place the tub on the fuselage and slide the it forward and aft to find the "sweet spot" where it fits the nose of the fuselage best.
Cut holes in the foam to match the holes in the tub. I used a piece of brass tubing with the inside sharpened to make a very clean hole.
May 20, 2015, 07:52 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
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Cote a piece of steel with plastic tape , drop the magnets in the holes and quickly put the steel over the holes.
Remove the steel and fill the holes with epoxy and return the steel and magnets to its original position.

let the epoxy cure completely then remove the steel.
May 20, 2015, 08:00 PM
Registered User
Oh that's good that you can still use the old canopy if you want.
May 21, 2015, 07:44 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
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Sort of a rule of mine, It keeps you from committing your model to an aftermarket part.
May 21, 2015, 07:46 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
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Cover the fuselage nose with sandwich wrap, place the cockpit tub on the model and tape it in place to keep it from moving. Drop the magnets in place and use epoxy to bond it to the cockpit tub.

NOTE: Try to apply only enough epoxy at first to hold it in place. After it sets up another application can be made to increase the thickness.
Avoid applying the epoxy to the outside edge .
This space has to be reserved to bond the instrument panel in place.
This was necessary because the instrument panel adds strength to the magnet latch area.
May 21, 2015, 07:49 PM
RC 4 Life
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Aft latch
Mark the light plywood plate 1.5 inch from the edge. ( provided)
Cut a stick 5 inch long.
Place the plywood plate against the inside of the aft fuselage aligning the mark you just made with the fuselage hatch bulkhead.
Use the cut stick to hold it there firmly.
The stick is placed on the edge of the circuit board and the top end is pushed against the plywood plate to wedge it in place.
Test fit the cockpit tub to ensure the plywood plate aligns with it. Remove the cockpit tub and rough sand the flat portion of the tub to improve the bond joint.
May 21, 2015, 07:52 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
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Practice the next step

You will have to work quickly so practice this next step.
it's easy if you know what is ahead.

Tips Before you start:
Set up a resting place for the model to sit with the nose downhill.
Clean the fuselage with alcohol or soap and water so the tape will stick.
(remove the factory mold release. )
void applying the tape to the area with decals unless you want them to come off.

Apply Gorilla glue to the top of the plywood plate .
Put the cockpit tub in place and tape it in place.
Flip the fuselage upside down with the nose slightly down hill and let the gorilla glue set up completely.
Two hours is enough but over night is much better.
May 21, 2015, 08:15 PM
Foam addict
4stripes's Avatar
Nice upgrade!
BTW, we have just used your A10 canopy to upgrade the LX A10 and are very pleased with the improved looks. It looks much more scale than stock.
Cheers Eric
May 24, 2015, 08:01 PM
RC 4 Life
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Assembly of the pilot head may be the hardest part of this kit .
That is partly why it comes with two pilot heads.
Options are nice too so one has a face shield down while the other is up.
You should assemble the one you don't want to use to practice on first.

Block sand the back of the head halves until the plastic becomes thin around the edges.
You can keep track of your progress by holding the piece up to a bright light.
If you break thru stop.
Using light pressure cut the half free from the parts sheet.
Several light cuts is better than one heavy one.
May 24, 2015, 08:04 PM
RC 4 Life
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Bonding tips: Folded masking tape applied to the head halves works great as handles.
Keep a rag handy to wipe off glue from your fingers if needed.

Trace the outline of the head shape on a flat surface and apply model cement to form a "dipping pool."
Dip both halves in the cement and bond them together.
Aligning the helmets near the neck works as a reference point.
You have about 3 min. working time. Don't worry too much about the neck area, it is hidden in the torso.

let the head dry overnight before working on the seam.

Use the edge of a hobby knife to scrape away the excess plastic at the seam then apply plastic filler as needed.
Apply primer then a good coat of gloss white.
Bright colored helmets really stand out at the flying field.

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