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May 12, 2015, 11:12 AM
Andrew Radcliffe
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Build Log

One Hit Wonder 30" Dollar Tree and 45" blucor 3D


NEW VIDEO
One hit wonder sunset jam (3 min 2 sec)



One Hit Wonder (1 min 58 sec)


The One Hit Wonder is a 30" Dollar Tree 3d plane we designed taking all of the positive flight characteristics of recent commercial foamies together with the positive characteristics of other similar size foamies we see posted here. We added a few thoughts of our own to the airframe and now know this one is too good not to share. For a total airframe investment of $2 and a couple of hours work including paint this bird outperforms any foam plane we have flown or seen flown to date.

The equipment is simple, a 1700kv Hobbyking Blue (actually now silver) wonder (https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=38720), an 8 x 3.8 s.f. prop, a 20 amp (over sized) ESC, a DSM2 Lemon RX, two Turnigy 6 gram servos and one Turnigy 10 gram servo. Power is from a 450 ma two cell AGA USA battery (25C) http://www.aga-powerusa.com/batterie...50-25c-2s-7-4v , by far the best in it's class and we have found to out perform even 850 ma batteries of equal C rating. Angle the motor 3.5 degrees to the right and dead in line vertically to obtain the best stable hover.

The reinforcement consists of struts (bamboo skewers), a 28" long 1mm x 3mm CF rod in the wing, a couple of 1mm X 3mm strips at the stress points, a 1mm x 3mm strip on the elevator, and a couple of tail struts made from 2mm round CF. This reinforcement has been arrived at as we built this one, the prototype with a bare minimum of reinforcement and flew it through some hellish maneuvers doing everything possible to break it in the air. when we succeeded, we simply glued it together and added CF (and the struts....)

More about the reinforcement on the second page, read about the build 2 to see the evolution based on our learning curve.

There is one, and only one drawback to this airframe. It flies so well you will find yourself doing impossible maneuvers inches from the ground and flying threw gaps in tree branches and the like, because you find you can. And unfortunately, Dollar Tree foam is a bit too brittle when you do make that inevitable miss. But then again, it is just a matter of a bit of glue or at worst another $2.00 in foam and you are up and flying again. Do not make our mistake. If you airbrush it with a hand cut stencil, like we did, keep the stencil, you will need it! A small price to pay for the pleasure of flying this thing.
Last edited by Andrew Radcliffe; Jul 27, 2016 at 09:49 PM. Reason: update
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May 13, 2015, 09:49 AM
Registered User
It looks like a lot of fun. Why is it the "one Hit Wonder"?
May 13, 2015, 10:11 AM
Laughs at un-boxing videos...
basicguy's Avatar
Hi,
What is the reason for the serrations on the ailerons?
May 13, 2015, 03:55 PM
serial scratchbuilder
Granted's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddy5519
It looks like a lot of fun. Why is it the "one Hit Wonder"?
I'm guessing you've never built with dollar-store foamboard before. You only get one good crash.
May 13, 2015, 04:26 PM
Andrew Radcliffe
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Exactly, but actually, the bird itself is proving me wrong. I have hit the ground badly twice doing rolls a foot off the ground, and the light pole once, while I was brain dead!). Yet it has not broken too much to be glued YET, ( it flies again tonight!) I think the side-force generators have helped by adding a bit of extra rigidity at the end of the wings and some protection for the ailerons.
Last edited by Andrew Radcliffe; May 13, 2015 at 04:33 PM.
May 13, 2015, 04:30 PM
Andrew Radcliffe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basicguy
Hi,
What is the reason for the serrations on the ailerons?
It seems to add a bit of stability in a harrier. I do not know why, but on past planes it has been so, so we included them on this one. We got the idea the first time from the Twisted Hobby MXS-C and it seems to have merit.
May 14, 2015, 08:59 PM
Andrew Radcliffe
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We flew again tonight and experimented a bit with determining the proper max build weight. The original plane weighed about 160 grams (+ 450 ma battery). We have flown it severely with the clear intent of breaking it in half in mid air. The idea is to reinforce the final build only in the stress areas and ignore the rest to save weight. We have identified the 4 spots the body fails and the area at the tips of the wings both broke when abused in the air. Those failure areas are now a mass of glue and we are at 172.2 grams right now and it flies great. We added two nickels at the cg to add ten grams and at 182.2 you can tell a little difference. Two more nickels hitting 192.2 grams, well it still flew well but the highest really we can stand is the 182.

So now we will do a bit of thinking about the best ways to isolate the stress areas and add the minimum amount of weight. Any Ideas anyone has to cut back weight in the final build would be much appreciated!
May 14, 2015, 09:49 PM
Laughs at un-boxing videos...
basicguy's Avatar
Can you move the components around to get your CG without added weight? Make them a structural part of your plane.
Last edited by basicguy; May 14, 2015 at 10:15 PM.
May 15, 2015, 06:26 AM
Professional tree finder
compressor man's Avatar
Nice! Thanks for posting this!!
Chris
May 15, 2015, 06:58 AM
Andrew Radcliffe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compressor man
Nice! Thanks for posting this!!
Chris
You are welcome. We are very interested in seeing others built it and hearing about their ideas. We build a lot of planes, but once and a while you run across one that seems to have real potential. And this community has a lot of people with all the best experience in the world!
May 15, 2015, 07:01 AM
Andrew Radcliffe
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Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by basicguy
Can you move the components around to get your CG without added weight? Make them a structural part of your plane.
No, you misunderstand. the only weight to be added is reinforcement (and right now, as we beta test the thing) repair glue. The final CG is set by shifting the battery, not by adding weight. We had to lengthen the nose a bit from our first sketches to make it work out, but just 3/4" or so. Our challenge is to make it strong enough to take the abuse we are giving it yet keep it light enough to perform as intended, without using expensive of hard to find materials.
May 15, 2015, 07:05 AM
Andrew Radcliffe
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Thread OP
Does anyone have any experience on covering small areas of Dollar Tree foam with doculam? One idea is to make inside painted colored "patches" of doculam laminating the stress points, spray them with 3m 77, and then iron them on to both sides of the spots expected to crack. That way we should get the strength of the lamination and color at the same time for very little weight added. I wonder about the iron heat..........
May 15, 2015, 07:10 AM
Professional tree finder
compressor man's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Radcliffe
Does anyone have any experience on covering small areas of Dollar Tree foam with doculam? One idea is to make inside painted colored "patches" of doculam laminating the stress points, spray them with 3m 77, and then iron them on to both sides of the spots expected to crack. That way we should get the strength of the lamination and color at the same time for very little weight added. I wonder about the iron heat..........
Have you considered using colored shipping tape for lightweight reinforcement?
May 15, 2015, 07:45 AM
serial scratchbuilder
Granted's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Radcliffe
Does anyone have any experience on covering small areas of Dollar Tree foam with doculam? One idea is to make inside painted colored "patches" of doculam laminating the stress points, spray them with 3m 77, and then iron them on to both sides of the spots expected to crack. That way we should get the strength of the lamination and color at the same time for very little weight added. I wonder about the iron heat..........
I can try it when I get home, got lots of low-temp laminating film and foamboard.
May 15, 2015, 10:25 AM
a random dude
sconnie's Avatar
this is great. I've been building with dollar tree foam, so this might be my next build.

a couple of questions. Are you peeling the paper off of the foam, or is this with paper on? Do you use primarily hot glue or what kind of glue do you use?

thanks,
sconnie
Last edited by sconnie; May 15, 2015 at 11:00 AM.


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